H14 Hexayurt?

[Capinator]

So I made a post about radiant barrier material, and I guess that uncorked a desire to ask more questions. Cuz, here I am already obsessing about what to do next year.

We did a 6' stretchayurt this year with a DIY box swamp cooler that was AMAZING. I can't believe I waited so long to make one. It really changes everything. Our whole schtick has been to try and get out of RVs, which are so confining and isolating (to me, do your own thing - I'm not trying to insult anybody). The hexayurt + misting radiant barrier shade structures really seems to be the last piece in that puzzle to create cool sleeping spaces and wide open but comfortable public spaces. But, the search for perfection continues.

So - here's my question: I've seen a few H13 hexayurts, but never an H14. Are they out there? If not, is there a reason why? It seems like if you reinforced the square edges with drywall corners you would have a really strong structure. The H14 still has mostly triangulated faces and I would be doing mitered edges on a table saw. Any thoughts on something like this?

H14 Hexayurt.png

[Canoe]

... The H14 still has mostly triangulated faces and I would be doing mitered edges on a table saw. ...

Mitres don't give you much, if anything more than more fragile edges. Use wide tape to bridge the joints, for lots of contact area on each side.

Research "power band". Along with wide-taped joints, that's where the real strength to handle playa winds comes from.

In the drawing, you can see where a bi-filament tape power-band goes. In the upper, you get a continuous powerband that can wrap all the way around. In the lower, you see the powerband having to go across the middle of a flat panel.

hexayurt - six stretch, extended roof.png

Make them out of paper:
- normal,
- one raised end,
- both ends raised.
Then handle them. Rather telling.

[Elderberry]

All those H's and numbers. Nothing can beat the original 6 sided yurt with 6' walls---with air conditioning.

[lucky420]

[quote="Elderberry"]All those H's and numbers. Nothing can beat the original 6 sided yurt with 6' walls---with air conditioning.[/quote

YEP! i loved having 6' walls all around me...

[Shoeshine]

sorry don't have any real life pics handy, but this is what I did this past year and it worked really well.
cargo net over the top w/ 4 ratchet straps to 18" lags. didn't move an inch in Sat pre-event blow.
only takes one more sheet than the std 6' stretch
The extra headroom and 5' door made a world of difference in comfort and usage
[attachment=1]hexi Mk4.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]hexi Mk4 plan.JPG[/attachment]

[hooker]

So I've had the classic six sided, 4 foot high hexayurt (H12) for 4 years. It works, but I REALLY hate squatting down every time I go in. I think the H13 (like the H12, but with one high peak on one side) would let me have a full height door. Does anyone have experience on playa with an H13? I worry about that peak in high winds. I'd also love to see how folks built doors. If I don't get my yurt fixed up, it might be time for a tent. Anyone have experience with the H13?

[LowePro]

Campmates did the h13, I think they just followed the standard design. It works well for them.
They did reinforce the door frame with lumber, I think 1x4s. The lower edge of the door scrapes on the ground and beats up the panel.
They use the rope halo to stake it down, it does OK in the wind but 2015 was tough, we had to retape some seams during the dust up. No major failures though.

[lucky420]

last year we made the standard H12 but made the walls 6 ft tall. used the tape anchors that we've always used. No problem with it staying staked down and it was truly wonderful not having to crouch down everytime you needed to go in and out. Will be bringing it back out again this year.

I'd really kind of like to try out a shift pod though, looks so easy to set up

[Captain Goddammit]

Don't waste your money on a Shit Pod. It's nothing but an ice fishing tent marked up to double the price.
If you're going to drop that kind of coin maybe consider a Soul Pad, at least you get something good for your money.

[lucky420]

Don't waste your money on a Shit Pod. It's nothing but an ice fishing tent marked up to double the price.
If you're going to drop that kind of coin maybe consider a Soul Pad, at least you get something good for your money.

I was looking at those yesterday. I love the design but common sense has taken hold of me and I'll stick with the yurt again this year.

[Captain Goddammit]

Come by this year, I have a camp mate who is bringing one, you can check it out in person. That helps when considering a pricey tent. She really liked it.

[lucky420]

Yes seeing one in person on the playa would help a lot.

I will and thank you

[Kernel666]

... The H14 still has mostly triangulated faces and I would be doing mitered edges on a table saw. ...

Mitres don't give you much, if anything more than more fragile edges. Use wide tape to bridge the joints, for lots of contact area on each side.

I put mitred edges on my hexayurt. It's very easy to do, improves the fit and finish significantly making the structure look more sleek and well built, and without question, mitred edges increase the strength of the structure. If one packs the hexayurt properly and handles it with diligence and care, the mitred edges will hold up just fine.

Although I'm a civil engineer and have the capability to do so, I don't feel like going through the dynamic physics calculations that would be required to back-up my assertion with evidence. But just think about it: by having full contact between the roughly-one-inch-thick surfaces, you gain significant frictional strength within the joints. In addition, there is significantly greater resistance to bending moments from wind load, by virtue of the fact that you have created a more solid connection, rather than what amounts to two dimensional point connections where the two corners of the slabs are trying to align together (but never really do particularly well from what I've seen out there).

That said, I do agree with the OP on all other points ... mitres aren't necessary at all. I just wanted my yurt to look great, and it did, and I had fun making it into an art project. It looked much better than the ones done without mitres. And I've been hit by some violent storms, and while inside, the storms were barely noticeable. So I wouldn't be afraid to geek-out and do mitres if you're so inclined. Especially if you have a table saw!!!