HexaYurts

[lucky420]

screens, filters, plastic windows...pfffft


i just cut out windows and just put back into place when I dont want fresh air or a view. i make sure window plugs are in place when i leave for advetures

[Canoe]

...Would Stucco tape hold the 10 x 20 air filter or wall cut outs in place if I am not around?...

Most likely.
(But that is a large area. I'd be tempted to tape something like a ruler or paint stir-stick across the middle to give the filter some support if a big blow comes up while it's not covered and you're asleep. But that's me)
Some would put foil tape on first (needed to seal the holes in the panel anyway).
(you said the two filtered vents are for when the swamp-cooler is off. you do need a path to exhaust air for the swamp-cooler to run)

... I am guessing keep it sealed tight unless someone is in camp is the best way to go.

You nailed it sparky.
Unless you want to experience even more dust.
And risk having a strong blow make a bigger hole or rip the panel apart.

[trex2000]

Last year, packed up my yurt and left the playa. The yurt has remained pack all year. My question is do I need to wash my yurt before taking it back to the playa or can i just unwrap and go?
Thanks
Trex

[rideincircles]

In general, your tape may peel off from what I have read. Pull it out and see if it looks good. Does the bifilament tape peel off? Then it may need to be cleaned. The aluminum edge tape should be on there permanently. Someone with more experience can chime in.

[FIGJAM]

I would take a bottle or two of rubbing alcohol and wipe down the surfaces before taping on playa, but then I'm lazy.

[--Ever--]

Haven't touched the yurt since spending a bunch of time on it before last year's burn. Hoping to start reaping the rewards this year! (as opposed to the opposite, lol). Thinking it should be good to go...

[dj_shuze]

Hey, Hexayurt people -

What are people's current best-practices for doors?

Here's what I think I know:

• Plywood fastened to some, or all of the side
  • Door opening can be all the way to the ground
  • Plywood thru-bolted to underlying polyiso, or perma-bonded to polyiso
  • Some people cover the full side with ply, others merely reinforce around door opening
  • Hinges are simply door hinges mounted flat
  • Closures are varied; often, simple gate latches are used, but require string-pulls to open from the inside
  • Advantage: Big door that swings laterally; very stable & reliable over multiple years
  • Disadvantage: Plywood adds bulk, weight & complexity; latch for closure more complex using; various techniques used to enable opening from inside (as well as outside)

• No ply
  • Door opening is best if mitered, swinging outside.
  • Curved door corners are stronger, though crude cutting can make them a hassle.
  • Must leave 6" above and below door to preserve shear strength. Many people add a 6" strip of ply on the lower area in order to prevent kick-thru.
  • Door can swing laterally, or hung from above (a'la doggie door)
  • Flat metal plus neodymium magnets is adequate for door closure
  • Tape hinges are ok, but degrade over the duration of the burn, and certainly degrade annually (all bi-fil degrades with UV)
  • Metal hinges bolted to polyiso are ok, but needs some structural support to prevent holes from growing annually. Consider bonding thin / lightweight aluminum (the type that comes in rolls from big box store) to bolt hole areas
  • Advantage: Simplicity, lightweight
  • Disadvantage: Not as durable; door threshold must be stepped over, and is oft-kicked by burners who are under the influence of (fill in the blank).

I use the latter technique. But it's just "ok". In a few days, I'm helping somebody build a yurt, and it would be nice to use current best-practice from the wise yurt builders here. (I'll use the latter depending on responses here between now & build day.)

What's your design?

[burner von braun]

I think that's a pretty solid rundown you have there already dj_shuze. I personally don't have the lower section kickplate below my door, and the 'seal' between the door and the floor tarp remains relatively tight all week, and structurally sound as well. However, mine is the smaller H5 which I mainly just use for sleeping, and I'm pretty careful scooting the door open and shut. I use a homemade U-shaped wooden latch which pivots into place in order to hold the door closed, and can be opened from inside or outside of the yurt. All in all, I stayed simple with mine, but enjoy seeing all of the variants.

[Elderberry]

There have been many"modifications" from the original design, none of them are necessary. No plywood, no metal hinges, no curved doors and I could go on.

The only modification that has really been an improvement that I've ever seen or tried is the semi-folding yurt hinge technique developed by Camp Danger. It makes putting up the yurt fast and easy.

http://www.appropedia.org/Camp_Danger_H ... _Technique

[goodleaf]

Tried cheapy wallpaper and fabric draping for the inside of the yurt this year and it came out pretty well! Took an extra hour during set up, but felt very homey.

[lucky420]

Really really nice ^^^

[Elderberry]

What she said.
How did you attach the fabric to the roof?

[goodleaf]

What she said.
How did you attach the fabric to the roof?

I used 13 six inch segments of pvc pipe with a length of mule tape strung and knotted through each of them.

I taped the pipe + mule tape segments with bifil to the joints of the roof just before we set up. Didn’t do it before transport because the panels won’t lay flat. I had 6 just above the walls and and 6 more about halfway to the roof. One more near the very top of the roof.

I used binder clips to hook the lights and the fabric onto the mule tape.

Here’s a pic, may need to zoom in.

[Elderberry]

Thanks.

[burner von braun]

That's a pretty darn good idea you've got there goodleaf! Thanks for sharing.