rubenruben wrote:you can do most of it with one other person, maybe alone. you will need at least 4 people to lift the roof up, but will only take a couple minutes.
Hondovious wrote:So I am ready to start doing some pre-assembly, and am trying to figure out the best way. I know I am going to do the semi-folding option with tape hinges for the roof. But I am building a yurt with 6' high walls and to make that semi-folding I would need to make my transport 'package' 6'x8' and that is more precarious to move not to mention more difficult to protect with plywood. I am wondering if I should just tape all of my edges for the walls at home and wait until I am on the playa to add the 2' to the walls and assemble them. Or should I leave one 8' section of each wall piece untaped on the edge since it might make a slightly more stable to put two raw sides together and then tape them on both sides? Thanks in advance for any advice..
lucky420 wrote:i get my 6 inch from goodbuyguys.com. express shipping might get it to you in time...
stack wrote:So findtape.com is backordered on the 6" tape. I've got some leftover from my last burn, but am thinking that 4" might do the trick for the majority of the yurt....any thoughts?
yp983 wrote:I am sure this has been addressed a bunch of times, but I still need to ask:
For a standard 8 ft hexayurt, is it sufficient to use just a total of 6, 18inch, J-shaped rebar stakes? It would be one at each corner tied down through the tape anchor method. I have seen others that use 12 of these, but is 6 sufficient? I am just worried because once bent, there is only about 13 or 14 inches of stake left to be actually driven into the ground....
Fidget Wigglesworth wrote:Hey yurters,
I inherited a nice 8' hexayurt this year and am doing the necessary preparations + repairs this weekend... and then the practice setup on sunday.
I noticed that quite a bit of the foil on a few of the walls is torn off and some parts with no foil at all...
- what is the best way to repair / patch this? Is that completely necessary to patch up as long as the edges are covered and taped?
Do i need to patch these outer walls where there is no longer the foil or can i leave it just the board (its not showing foam but more like cardboard) or do i need to cover it to keep it rainproof. My main concern is rain leaking in these spots where the foil layer has been torn off.
What would you recommend patching it with?
- Is there a spray that would seal it?
- Can i just use some foil tape from homedepot or lowes?
just about a week!! thanks for the help!
peace in
- fidget
Fidget Wigglesworth wrote:Hey yurters,
I inherited a nice 8' hexayurt this year and am doing the necessary preparations + repairs this weekend... and then the practice setup on sunday.
I noticed that quite a bit of the foil on a few of the walls is torn off and some parts with no foil at all...
- what is the best way to repair / patch this? Is that completely necessary to patch up as long as the edges are covered and taped?
Do i need to patch these outer walls where there is no longer the foil or can i leave it just the board (its not showing foam but more like cardboard) or do i need to cover it to keep it rainproof. My main concern is rain leaking in these spots where the foil layer has been torn off.
What would you recommend patching it with?
- Is there a spray that would seal it?
- Can i just use some foil tape from homedepot or lowes?
just about a week!! thanks for the help!
peace in
- fidget
Fidget Wigglesworth wrote:Thanks JK!
One more question...
I got my bi-directional filament tape from goodbuys... but didn't get any foil tape.
Based on your expertise, does it matter what brand/type of foil tape? I see that homedepot has a huge range of different types of the foil tape.
Any recommendations on what to go for here? Do we need to splurge and get the best one, or will a more basic foil tape work? (we spent the $$ on the bifillament) so if we can go with the cheaper one, that'd be good for the books. Here are the options i found thru homedepot...
* Reflectix: 2 in. x 30 ft. Reflective Foil Tape (Model FT210) is $3.25
* Nashua Tape 322 1-57/64 in. x 150 ft. Aluminum Foil Tape Model 3220020500 is $6.58
or
* Nashua Tape Extreme Weather 2-7/8 in. x 150-7/8 ft. Foil-Backed Tape Model 652064 is $19.89
Thoughts?
- so so freaking soon! thanks
kman wrote:yp983 wrote:I am sure this has been addressed a bunch of times, but I still need to ask:
For a standard 8 ft hexayurt, is it sufficient to use just a total of 6, 18inch, J-shaped rebar stakes? It would be one at each corner tied down through the tape anchor method. I have seen others that use 12 of these, but is 6 sufficient? I am just worried because once bent, there is only about 13 or 14 inches of stake left to be actually driven into the ground....
That's been sufficient for the past 4 years, with our group.
More than that, we cannot promise.
jkisha wrote:I'll second this. We only use six tie-downs per yurt as well. We don't use rebar though. I posted a picture of the stakes we use somewhere in this forum, but rebar is good. Also, we put our stakes in very close (within 3") to the yurt corners. Just make sure you tape your yurt to the floor tarp. You're not fighting lift with the rebar so lateral wind force won't pull out the stakes. (At least that's been our experience for the last three years.kman wrote:yp983 wrote:I am sure this has been addressed a bunch of times, but I still need to ask:
For a standard 8 ft hexayurt, is it sufficient to use just a total of 6, 18inch, J-shaped rebar stakes? It would be one at each corner tied down through the tape anchor method. I have seen others that use 12 of these, but is 6 sufficient? I am just worried because once bent, there is only about 13 or 14 inches of stake left to be actually driven into the ground....
That's been sufficient for the past 4 years, with our group.
More than that, we cannot promise.
kman wrote:Actually, we DID fight lift last year in the storms that went through during the build, and on Monday. On the one yurt that wasn't staked down quite firmly enough, the wind actually snuck under the yurt and lifted the entire thing. The stakes held fine, however, the yurt did lift a couple of inches, and it caused some structural damage on that one yurt. The others were fine.
Use a trucker's hitch to STRONGLY hold those yurts down! Go to animated knots and learn to tie it before you go. The 18" candy-caned Rebar stakes will hold... make sure your rope is strong and not too stretchy. (This last isn't too tough... we used the standard colored rope (looks like climbing rope but it's not) from Home Depot, and it's fine... but something more like bungie would be terrible.)
jkisha wrote:Interesting. One more thing to worry about.
Actually last year was pretty bad, especially if you arrived early. We had an entire yurt that was still wrapped up almost go flying down the playa. That was Saturday--temp dropped about 20 or more degrees within seconds, wind came up fast and strong. Two of us had to sit on the thing until people came over with heavy things to set on top of it. We didn't even get to build the yurts until after the rain, I think on Monday. We spent a night or two sleeping in the back of the box truck.
One thing about those yurts is that they can be like kites (each panel and the entire structure because they are so light); and they have no stability until they are fully assembled and tied down.kman wrote:Actually, we DID fight lift last year in the storms that went through during the build, and on Monday. On the one yurt that wasn't staked down quite firmly enough, the wind actually snuck under the yurt and lifted the entire thing. The stakes held fine, however, the yurt did lift a couple of inches, and it caused some structural damage on that one yurt. The others were fine.
Use a trucker's hitch to STRONGLY hold those yurts down! Go to animated knots and learn to tie it before you go. The 18" candy-caned Rebar stakes will hold... make sure your rope is strong and not too stretchy. (This last isn't too tough... we used the standard colored rope (looks like climbing rope but it's not) from Home Depot, and it's fine... but something more like bungie would be terrible.)
kman wrote:Yeah. The weather was BAD last year, for the early builders and those who arrived Monday. And COLD for the first day or so!
That's the thing about Burning Man, though, you have to be prepared to ANYTHING!
We did get that amazing double rainbow, however. That rocked!jkisha wrote:Interesting. One more thing to worry about.
Actually last year was pretty bad, especially if you arrived early. We had an entire yurt that was still wrapped up almost go flying down the playa. That was Saturday--temp dropped about 20 or more degrees within seconds, wind came up fast and strong. Two of us had to sit on the thing until people came over with heavy things to set on top of it. We didn't even get to build the yurts until after the rain, I think on Monday. We spent a night or two sleeping in the back of the box truck.
One thing about those yurts is that they can be like kites (each panel and the entire structure because they are so light); and they have no stability until they are fully assembled and tied down.kman wrote:Actually, we DID fight lift last year in the storms that went through during the build, and on Monday. On the one yurt that wasn't staked down quite firmly enough, the wind actually snuck under the yurt and lifted the entire thing. The stakes held fine, however, the yurt did lift a couple of inches, and it caused some structural damage on that one yurt. The others were fine.
Use a trucker's hitch to STRONGLY hold those yurts down! Go to animated knots and learn to tie it before you go. The 18" candy-caned Rebar stakes will hold... make sure your rope is strong and not too stretchy. (This last isn't too tough... we used the standard colored rope (looks like climbing rope but it's not) from Home Depot, and it's fine... but something more like bungie would be terrible.)
yp983 wrote:Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.
I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:
I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.
Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!
My current latch system is pretty lame, I glued and taped velcro patches on the inside and outside of the door frame, and have a "floating" lock made out of a piece of canvas with opposing velcro patches. It allows us to open and "lock" it from either side, but it's a bit of a PITA when drunk. Adding some magnets with our current system may give it a little more closure. I know there are better closure systems than mine out there, but haven't felt the need to go to much effort to change it now. But the magnets would be easy to imbed into the foam. Brilliant! Now let's see if it works yp983 wrote:Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.
I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:
I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.
Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!
Aviax wrote:What I did with mine was to create a ridge of tape around the door frame, so when the door is shut, there is a 1" thing of folded tape on either side of it.
|----- (tape)
| [======= (door)
|------ (tape)
Had no problem with it at all during any dust storm last year.
It keeps the door in place quite well.
yp983 wrote:Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.
I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:
I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.
Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!
jkisha wrote:We use the expensive stuff, but if cost is an issue all I can say is try it. Most of what I post here is knowledge gained from reading and then trial and error. Because the Yurt is our home on the playa we don't feel comfortable on skimping on materials for it.
Regarding the rough edges, we have never experienced that. Maybe it's because we use the more expensive, thicker foil tape. Putting aluminum foil under packaging tape would never be an acceptable repair for us. The foil needs to be attached to the yurt. Maybe if you first glued the aluminum foil then taped over it, but still not the most elegant solution IMHO.
Again, I'm not knocking what others do; only commenting on what we would do. I wouldn't want to spend a week in the desert homeless because we cut corners on construction or repair. Again, just me.Fidget Wigglesworth wrote:Thanks JK!
One more question...
I got my bi-directional filament tape from goodbuys... but didn't get any foil tape.
Based on your expertise, does it matter what brand/type of foil tape? I see that homedepot has a huge range of different types of the foil tape.
Any recommendations on what to go for here? Do we need to splurge and get the best one, or will a more basic foil tape work? (we spent the $$ on the bifillament) so if we can go with the cheaper one, that'd be good for the books. Here are the options i found thru homedepot...
* Reflectix: 2 in. x 30 ft. Reflective Foil Tape (Model FT210) is $3.25
* Nashua Tape 322 1-57/64 in. x 150 ft. Aluminum Foil Tape Model 3220020500 is $6.58
or
* Nashua Tape Extreme Weather 2-7/8 in. x 150-7/8 ft. Foil-Backed Tape Model 652064 is $19.89
Thoughts?
- so so freaking soon! thanks
Key Man wrote:
Maybe I misunderstood the original question. I thought the poster was asking about small superficial repairs, where some of the thin foil layer has peeled away from the panel, but the panel is still intact. (That's what I've run into.) If chunks of panel are missing or damaged, that's another story!
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