HexaYurts

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.
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southern crone
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by southern crone » Thu May 28, 2015 9:47 pm

Maybe you could work out a deal with Burner Express to take a load in for their riders.

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rideincircles
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:56 pm

Any word if the Hunter XCI boards are a sufficient replacement for the Rmax boards? The source I found in dallas has them for $21.12 a sheet. This looks to be the option I will be going with if so. If not the other place had 1.5" RMAX boards for $25, but that eats up more room.

When I checked on my rental cargo van, I will be traveling in Dodge Promaster 1500 according to my rental car company. Anyone know if that would be big enough to fit the 4x8x1 block inside? I would consider shaving off a foot in the length if I had to to get it to fit. I am not to fond of strapping it to the roof of a rental unless that is the last resort.

maladroit
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by maladroit » Thu Jun 11, 2015 3:18 pm

Is it polyisocyanurate between layers of foil? Then it'll work.

I'll say that I have 2" walls and 1.5" roof on my hexayurt, and have not regretted the extra durability.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Jun 11, 2015 3:18 pm

Most cargo vans have 8' behind the front seats.

Look up that van on google and find the specs. 8)
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Canoe
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:10 pm

maladroit wrote:Is it polyisocyanurate between layers of foil? Then it'll work...
Don't forget the fibre reinforcement in the mix.
Needs foil on at least one side, for reluctance to reflect heat away.
The interior board insulates.
If there's foil on the inside too, then it lowers emmittance so as heat slowly gets through the insulation it resists radiating into the interior. Shiniest side to the outside for max benefit.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:24 pm

Finally picked up my boards today. Took over 3 hours on my lunch break to meet up with my uncle and head out to North Dallas to pick them up along with getting a couple of sheets of plywood. It looks like the Hunter XCI boards will be good to go. Mine are yellow on the polyiso, and have no logos on the outer reflective material. I think the other side was reflective also, but I only looked at one side. I went ahead and ordered my Bifilament and some foil tape online today, but I will buy a couple rolls of foil tape at HD this week so I can work on it this weekend.

It feels like time is crunching down by the day. Oh wait, it is.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:32 am

I started on getting my panels ready over the weekend. On average it was taking about 30-40 minutes per panel to clean them, cut off any excess hanging material, and tape the edges working by myself with no cutting of the panels yet. At this rate a hexayurt would take 8-10 hours for one person to get all the panels ready including cleaning, cutting the edges, and taping. Just noting this for anyone who is considering making one. Having some help would definitely speed things up, my friend going with me should be able to help some this week. I also worked on this outside in the shade when it was 100 outside, gotta get used to the heat this summer.

It looks like the hunter XCI panels are slightly larger than a sheet of plywood also by a 1/2" in about each direction also. I will try and get some measurements and confirm what the actual dimensions are. Otherwise, no issues with the Hunter XCI panels. They have no logos and are double sided reflective. I plan on stopping by enterprise soon to double check how much space my rental van has also, don't need any last minute hiccups once I get it.

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mmmcitrusy
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by mmmcitrusy » Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:00 pm

So, I build an octoyurt last year, and it was incredibly disappointing. I had been expecting something with more temperature control, but it was little better than a tent in terms of staying cool during the day. Still trying to figure out what I did wrong/how to improve it.
Short of getting an air conditioner or building a swamp cooler(because I don't think I'm up for that) what are some ways I could make it cooler during the day? A friend had suggested blacking out the interior walls. Would that help?

Thanks!

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Popeye » Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:49 am

mmmcitrusy wrote:So, I build an octoyurt last year, and it was incredibly disappointing. I had been expecting something with more temperature control, but it was little better than a tent in terms of staying cool during the day. Still trying to figure out what I did wrong/how to improve it.
Short of getting an air conditioner or building a swamp cooler(because I don't think I'm up for that) what are some ways I could make it cooler during the day? A friend had suggested blacking out the interior walls. Would that help?

Thanks!
First look to see where the heat is coming from. Are all the seams sealed? Doors, how often are they open? How many people inside? each person puts out about 225 btu/hr at rest, more when moving, talking etc.
During the day heat will come in through the walls even if they are sealed properly. Some heat will be absorbed by the floor.
I have never slept in a hexayurt but my guess is that by about 10/ noon inside temperature will be about outside temperature.
Insulation slows the transfer of heat it does not cool.
Build a bucket cooler. Figjam has some excellent instructions. It is not beyond you, just something you have not done before.

Blacking out the interior walls would not do anything except make it darker.
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Canoe
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Thu Jul 23, 2015 6:02 pm

mmmcitrusy wrote:So, I build an octoyurt last year, and it was incredibly disappointing. I had been expecting something with more temperature control, ..
As said above, construction details do matter, and it insulates, it doesn't cool.
That insulation works to keep your body heat inside while working to keep the hot playa air outside. Your body heats the interior a lot slower than the heat outside would. The radiant barrier on the outside also works to reflect away the majority of the sun's heat and light (that would convert into heat when absorbed) and heat radiated at the yurt from hot playa air, the sun-baked hot playa ground and any heat reflected at you from nearby structures with radiant barriers...

On the inside, technically, the radiant barrier on the inside does reflect heat your body radiates at the walls back at you, BUT, that radiant barrier is also a Emittive Barrier: as heat works its way through the insulation from outside (it does, just slowly as it is, well, insulation) the Emitive Barrier resists radiating that heat into the structure (it's limited to conducting that heat to the air, which transfers heat a lot slower than if it could radiate it). So don't paint the inside surface black. Shiny is good. Maybe paint remover will take off the painted brand logos. Hanging a black sheet spaced out from the wall (an inch or two) would have that sheet catch the heat radiated at it from your body, and catch what gets through the wall and radiated, but it will collect that heat over time and end up radiating it, but some like the cool feeling early on when your body heat isn't reflected back at you. (at night, if cool, you want your body heat reflected back at you)

Also on the inside, as the ground under you is no longer baked in the sun, and conduction through to that ground from the sun-baked ground outside next to the yurt is limited, if you don't have any insulation - like a rug - on the floor during the day, the playa can absorb some of the heat your body is producing. Rug rolled up during day to cool, rolled out at night to insulate to keep heat in if it's a cool night.

The above said, a swamp cooler is your secret weapon to provide a cool sleep/rest-friendly place, so you can get quality rest/sleep, so you can get out and enjoy your burn.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
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... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Papa_Legba » Wed Jul 29, 2015 12:53 pm

Canoe wrote: While the swamp cooler runs, it needs an exhaust vent to be open somewhere else in the hexahurt. NOT in the roof. Pick somewhere on a wall, seal wall openings with the foil tape as usual, so you're not breathing the wall particles or MOOPing them.
A down-turn elbow on the outside, taped to the wall, means rain can't come in and it's hard for hot dusty air to blow in.
If you run a duct from that vent up to near the peak of the roof on the inside, then when the Endless Breeze fan forces the cooled moist air into the yurt from the swamp-cooler, it will be the hottest air near the roof that is exhausted first, allowing the cooled air to pool nicely in the bottom of the yurt where you're resting/sleeping, and is also the quickest cool-down when you return from exploring BRC and turn the swamp-cooler back on (you don't need to leave it running while you're out - cool air is available in an instant and the yurt quickly cools).
excuse my noob'ness... but whats the difference between having an exhaust vent in the roof (not recommended above) vs. having a duct near the roof that runs to a vent lower down (recommended above)?

from an exhaust perspective, they seem the same. both letting out hot air at the top (but i'm no expert :D )... is it cause of dust? sunlight?

fwiw, i'll be running a figjam bucket cooler, in a 6 ft stretch yurt... i'm now trying to figure out my outtake vent set-up / location

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Canoe
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Wed Jul 29, 2015 1:45 pm

A roof vent can be problematic to keep rain out, not compromise roof panel structure, not provide leverage for the wind to damage the roof during a blow and may even be difficult to reach to seal when you have the swamp-cooler off, so the wind doesn't drive hot air & dust inside. Ducting air from near the peak down to the wall vent is just better at getting all of the hot air out than a wall vent alone, not a necessity (and such is only for use with a swamp-cooler, where its air being blown in will force inside air out through a vent). A roof vent can be done, some have been successful, and it may turn out to be a walk-in-the-park year. YRMV
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usurpedus
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by usurpedus » Wed Jul 29, 2015 3:50 pm

trying to focus on making use of the little vertical space ill have available in my yurt.. versus using up floor space unnecessarily. can anyone recommend any organizers that are efficient and don't take up a lot of space(while they're being transported up there).

also.. what interior light options/setups do you recommend? I've perused through this topic and haven't found much for either of these..

thanks!

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by lucky420 » Wed Jul 29, 2015 3:54 pm

you can just use a solar garden light for interior lighting. charge it outside during the day. I did the 6 ft stretch last year for myself, since i had no one else staying with me. It was great. I put mine under a monkey hut and it stayed pretty cool, didnt use a figjam. This year going with the H12 but with 6 foot walls and a figjam!
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:04 pm

Where are WE camping??? :wink:
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by asr9754 » Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:06 pm

storage.JPG
I like these things. They pack down to almost nothing. I hang one next to my bed, keep my LED, glasses, gatorade, etc handy. It can be moved around easily or hung in a dome or shade structure. I'm not in a yurt, but I bet you could hang these from the roof or wall as long as you only put lighweight stuff in it.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by lucky420 » Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:07 pm

:lol: 7 & G
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by skippy3k » Wed Aug 12, 2015 10:50 am

Believe it or not, I actually read all 41 pages of this. After years in tents and RV's, we are doing a hexayurt this year so I figured I should get comfortable and read this straight through. A few questions I had were somewhat answered in passing, but I was hoping to shed a little more light on them.

1. Tarp taping - I see people taping the ground tarp to just the outside or the outside AND the inside of the walls to protect from water and dust. We are thinking of cutting the tarp to shape and then taping it to just the inside of the walls and I didn't see anyone mention doing that. Is there a good reason not to that I am missing?

2. Tarp taping #2 - I saw a mention of using the bifilament to tape the tarp to the walls, but then saw another mention of bilafilament tape not holding to the tarp that well. (And it's expensive). Then I saw a mention of using a strip of bifilament along the base of the walls, so that you can repeatedly tape the tarp to it using another kind of tape without tearing the walls. Is bifilament the best choice here or is their a less expensive alternative?

3. Rope - We are going the rope halo route, and have rope I'm using for the halo part. But I'm seeing a lot of positive hoopla about paracord, which I've never used. I'm thinking of picking up a big roll of 750lb Type IV paracord for other uses...could I leverage it also for the rope halo guy lines, or is their too much stretch in it?

Thanks.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Wed Aug 12, 2015 11:52 am

skippy3k wrote:Believe it or not, I actually read all 41 pages of this. After years in tents and RV's, we are doing a hexayurt this year so I figured I should get comfortable and read this straight through. A few questions I had were somewhat answered in passing, but I was hoping to shed a little more light on them.

1. Tarp taping - I see people taping the ground tarp to just the outside or the outside AND the inside of the walls to protect from water and dust. We are thinking of cutting the tarp to shape and then taping it to just the inside of the walls and I didn't see anyone mention doing that. Is there a good reason not to that I am missing?

2. Tarp taping #2 - I saw a mention of using the bifilament to tape the tarp to the walls, but then saw another mention of bilafilament tape not holding to the tarp that well. (And it's expensive). Then I saw a mention of using a strip of bifilament along the base of the walls, so that you can repeatedly tape the tarp to it using another kind of tape without tearing the walls. Is bifilament the best choice here or is their a less expensive alternative?
Just my opinion of course, but here's my thought on the taping.

We edge the yurt panels with foil tape. We don't pull the bi-directional tape off when we take the yurts down. We cut the floor off leaving the tape. (For us the tarp is expendable and we get a new one every year).

We don't clean the yurts off until just before the next burn, like right around now, and the bi-directional tape almost falls off from the effects of the playa dust. We then wash all the panels with dawn, rinse and dry them and repair any damage to the panels with metal tape. We have had the same yurts on the playa almost every year since hearing about them at Green Man.

When the wind blows, you'll see the tarp lift up a bit. Not a real problem, but taping on both sides means a better chance the tape won't be pulled off and it's just additional protection from water in case of rain.

We use 2" bi-directional tape, which is cheaper. Haven't found any problem with adhesion to the tarp.

YMMV
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by lucky420 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:02 pm

1. i've taped both inside and outside before. First year I taped the tarp up inside the walls, every year since then I tape tarp up outsided the walls.I think either way is fine.

2. i use the 6 in bifilament to tape the tarp to the walls. never had a problem of it not sticking even in last years rain. Just make sure that you press it nice and tightly when applying.

3. I dont use a halo. I use the tape anchor way on all 6 corners and i use regular rope not paracord
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Wed Aug 12, 2015 12:05 pm

I am still building mine, but the questions for the floor are things I am wondering about. I was planning on using billboard vinyl as a flooring and just splitting one down the middle to have a 28 x 24 footprint for the camp. Partly since I assume that I will just set up the costco carport on arrival and the hexayurt in the morning.

After working with the bifilament to start on my hinges, it seems like it could stick to anything, but I will test the vinyl later. Avoid letting the tape stick to itself at all costs. If more than a square inch sticks to itself, its almost impossible to pull apart. I had to cut off some of it after I tried to pull it apart, but had no luck. It can also pull off the foil on the boards if it is not corrected immediately. I bought 4 - 6" rolls of bifilament, but this would be where a roll of thinner tape would be good since it is overkill on the interior hinges.

Aside from that, all my panels are cut and the edges are taped and I have 3 of 6 of the roof panels taped together to start on my camp danger hinges. A couple of my cuts were off slightly since I didn't have any straight 10 foot edges lying around (probably around 1/2" variation at most). Hopefully the danger hinge gap should be sufficient for that.

Will try and get the rest taped up this week.

Also, I will add I tried 2 kinds of foil tape, Nashua extreme weather and 3m cold weather. The 3m cold weather seemed to be thicker, but has logos all over it, while the nashua seems to be stickier. Both seem to work fine, but I prefer the thicker tape overall, but I would still want to plain foil tape for fixing any blemishes. I may use some extra tape to decorate patterns on the yurt also. So far I have used up almost 3 rolls, but still have to cut a door, windows, and a vent for the swamp cooler. It looks like 4 rolls would be more than enough, but 3 may not cut it.

(responses came in while typing this)

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:12 pm

skippy3k wrote:1. Tarp taping - taping it to just the inside of the walls...
This is done. Should be fine. Keeps the joint out of the rain. And inside where you can repair it in any weather.
skippy3k wrote:2. Tarp taping #2 - I saw a mention of using the bifilament to tape the tarp to the walls, ... you can repeatedly tape the tarp to it using another kind of tape ... is their a less expensive alternative?
Yes.
Foil tape onto the panel where you will tape the tarp to it.
Then Stucco Tape to secure the tarp to the foil tape; this will be trickier than using 6" wide tape.
Stucco tape has been used successfully on-playa to hold reflectix onto windshields and windows in the wind. Comes off easily and low/no residue. Cheap at most box hardware stores. Get the poly version not the cloth version.
skippy3k wrote:3. Rope - We are going the rope halo route, and have rope I'm using for the halo part. But I'm seeing a lot of positive hoopla about paracord, which I've never used. I'm thinking of picking up a big roll of 750lb Type IV paracord for other uses...could I leverage it also for the rope halo guy lines, or is their too much stretch in it?
Shouldn't be too much play, and some give and take is good. But I'm not a fan of any round cord for putting loads onto the panel (particularly edges) if you're trying to hold down a hexayurt in 75+mph winds (1000's of lbs.), or even 100+mph winds. No need for flat tubular nylon like used in mountain climbing, but there's ratchet straps or the strap material to make the halo, so the load is more forgiving on the panels.

On hexayurt wind loads viewtopic.php?f=277&t=65276
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by skippy3k » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:41 pm

Canoe wrote:But I'm not a fan of any round cord for putting loads onto the panel (particularly edges) if you're trying to hold down a hexayurt in 75+mph winds (1000's of lbs.), or even 100+mph winds. No need for flat tubular nylon like used in mountain climbing, but there's ratchet straps or the strap material to make the halo, so the load is more forgiving on the panels.
I've got my eye on a roll of mule tape...sounds like a good (albeit overkill) application for it. Another justification for me to buy some.

Thanks for the tape info. I've got some stucco and foil tape, didn't think of using them together.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:46 pm

Mule tape is good. If it's rated for the load. There's some super cheap mule tape out there that's about only good for use as large ribbons for decoration.
skippy3k wrote:... saw another mention of bilafilament tape not holding to the tarp that well...
I forgot.
Panels, and depending on the tarp material, can have release agents on them from manufacture. To ensure good adhesion, you may need to wipe with rubbing alcohol. Watch out if you're doing this on the playa inside the yurt. But like applying foil tape on panel edges, the strip of foil tape for securing the tarp to can be applied at home before you pack up your panels for transporting to the playa.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
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... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by torrey.smith » Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:57 pm

Hexayurts are fun :)

Sextant did this in 2013. Now we do individual AC units or Swamp Coolers at the individual-organized level (the ducting was a large volume to deal with logistically).

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Papa_Legba » Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:46 pm

anybody use these for ground stakes? seems like it would be easier to hammer in vs. rebar. but will it hold a 6ft stretch?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-16- ... /202048202

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Fri Aug 14, 2015 7:14 pm

Papa_Legba, get thee over to viewtopic.php?f=277&t=68556
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Mon Aug 24, 2015 10:23 am

Still need to cut windows, vents and doors. Most likely this evening. My hexayurt is danger hinged at the moment.

On the door, I was thinking of a portal, in the shape of a capital D turned on its side, with a slight angle at the top connection and a mild 6"radius or so at the bottom edges. Probably 6" from the upper and lower edge and 36" wide. If possible I will add some flaps over the edges and use some neodymium magnets to keep it closed (I don't see any shipped with prime, so they will have to be my tiny fridge ones). I may add a tiny hole to add a pull rope also for opening and closing.

How badly does the bottom of the door need to be braced? Should I make small ramps or add plywood braces on the edge? Just seeing on last minute recommendations. I have some foam flooring to add to the inside of the yurt if crawling is needed.

I got some 10x20x1 air filters also which I will add in 2 locations for when the swamp cooler is not in use. Should they be removable or permanent? Would probably tape around the outside edge to reduce the actual intake size and possibly use neodymium also to keep in place.

I have a sheet of thin clear plastic 1/16" or so that I was going to cut and put a few tiny windows (6' x 12" or so), maybe just 2 at the sunrise and sunset walls. That and I have a plastic dryer type hose to vent air from the top of the yurt. Also, still need to finish the swamp cooler which has the paint drying at the moment.

Can you hang stuff from inside the yurt at all? I may need to tape the vent tube to something.I guess along the tape would be best. It is not as light as a foil tube.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:22 pm

rideincircles wrote:... I got some 10x20x1 air filters also which I will add in 2 locations for when the swamp cooler is not in use. Should they be removable or permanent? ... I have a sheet of thin clear plastic 1/16" or so that I was going to cut and put a few tiny windows (6' x 12" or so), maybe just 2 at the sunrise and sunset walls...
Any opening should have a means of covering it against a really big strong blow. And against rain. Think 45 mph, 75 mph and 100 mph. Really. And a micro-burst can result in 150 mph, which is why we say micro-bursts = all-bets-are-off.

Your plastic windows = let the heat in, more so if they're in sun. So make them coverable. Again consider wind.
A North facing window lets lots of light in without direct sun (except a tiny angle of sun at sunrise, and maybe a sliver just before the sun goes behind the hill). This leaves it taking in heat through contact with the hot playa air and from heat radiated from the sun-baked playa. Far less heat than a window in the sun. And a 2"x2" (yes, inches, not feet) lets lots of light in for moving around, but not for reading. Such a window on N, S, E & W gives a way of viewing/checking all around without having to go outside (condition Alpha), with a well secured cover/seal on the inside.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
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Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:11 pm
Burning Since: 2015
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Re: HexaYurts

Post by rideincircles » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:47 pm

Noted. I do plan on having the cutouts ready to plug up whenever needed. Windows may not be necessary, but seemed like an easy idea. Keeping them small will be the best bet. Would Stucco tape hold the 10 x 20 air filter or wall cut outs in place if I am not around? I just ordered some stucco tape today. Will probably hinge everything to close unless its taped open.

I am guessing keep it sealed tight unless someone is in camp is the best way to go.

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