HexaYurts

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.
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Julie Danger
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Construction just got easier!

Post by Julie Danger » Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:32 pm

@ Jkisha: your hexayurt taping strategy is now world famous, here (2D/grounded assembly): http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... y_Strategy:

If anyone's making a new hexayurt, or have friends making a new one, be sure to look at the very super wonderful NEW designs (that increase standing room and the height of the doorway) and the new construction techniques here: http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... exayurt.3F

muchos besos,
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Post by JeepBear » Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:23 am

Has anyone here ever built a fully-folding 6" Hexayurt?

I saw one at SaguaroMan this year and although I got a lot of info from the gentleman that built it, I didn't get specifics on the cutting angles for mitering the edges. :( I've dug around here and Appropedia, but I can't seem to find anything about constructing the smallest one.

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Post by Julie Danger » Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:58 am

JeepMan:

I think (and that has been dangerous for me: fair warning) that if you follow these instructions http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... g_Hexayurt

with these measurements http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_schematics

you can make a fully folding hexayurt as a 6'. Just to clarify:

-You mean a 6' hexayurt, the little tent sized one. If you're talking the 6-foot-stretch hexayurt, I'm not so sure
-You mean to make a fully folding hexayurt like this big boy: http://www.archive.org/stream/Hexayurt_ ... _256kb.mp4

The thing with the mitering of the angles is: it's just angles, shouldn't matter the SCALE of the object. All hexagon walls will require the angles quoted in the fully-folding hexayurt data. All the roof pieces should also require the same, even if you made a little desktop model. I haven't made a fully folding thang, so I say this with all humility and the total possibility that I'm wrong. Ask a nearby engineer or geometry buff, but the above statements should be right. It's when you go pentayurt or something that all that math changes. But: no coming to tear my legs off if I'm wrong.
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Post by mrfunsacramento » Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:03 pm

I'm planning on bringing an H12 using 1 inch thick panels this year. This will be my first hexayurt. Very thrilled with the camp danger design, but I've got a few questions...

First...has anyone tried the 1.5 or 2 inch panels? How significant is the improvement?

Second...how do tape anchors work with this design? I was under the impression that tape anchors were installed as part of the roof building process.

Thanks in advance.

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@ Mrfunsacramento

Post by Julie Danger » Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:04 pm

By saying H12, I believe you mean an 8 foot hexayurt. Unless you mean the H13, and wrote H12?
To follow the Camp-Danger plan or "classic construction", you'll make tape anchors after you tape your roof cone/half-roofs together. (http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_Camp ... Roof-Halfs)

As for 1" material-- I used that last year and fared fine. There were a couple big windstorms that made the windward walls bow in a bit-- caused me enough concern that I put our coolers against them for support. A friend built 40 hexayurts out of 1.5" material-- he had similar problems, and he says he doesn't recommend 1" material. I would not use 1" material if I was increasing height on the hexayurt (going to a 12" yurt or a 10" yurt/Mark II). I don't say that having any knowledgeable background on how the taller yurts have fared, but I would hate for someone's hexayurt to come down because they used the thinner materials.
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Post by Elderberry » Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:32 pm

IMHO 1" material is fine, even for taller yurts. Our 4' Yurt is making its 4th year now and our 6' second room is making its 2nd appearance. (size based on wall height) They've both been through wind, rain, hail and after last year, even snow and never a problem. We tape the walls inside and out to the floor tarp and that pretty much takes care of any bowing. Additionally a bit of flexibility against the wind might be a good thing.
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Post by Galaxo Magic » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:33 am

We have taken our 8' hexiyurt 3 years now. In 2008 it withstood the Monday windstorm, yes, it bowed a bit but that was no problem. Last years rain and cold, no problem. Always comfy inside! We see little need for the tall version. Mostly we just go there to sleep. We cut a little hole in the side and put a tiny AC unit in there and it is marvelous, even in the worst white outs!

This year we will be bringing our hexiyurts twin. We connect them together with a submarine type door. Makes two nice sleeping and wind shelter spaces. Love our yurts....
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by mrfunsacramento » Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:14 pm

Any advice on venting my H12 hexayurt for use with a swamp cooler? The main idea seems to be to cut a hole in the wall, and tape a furnace filter over it, but the drawback seems to be that anything above the height of the window is hot moist air. Does it damage the structural integrity to cut a hole in a roof panel? Would one hole be plenty for any size fan? (I'm looking at a fan with a max of 900 cfm).

Thanks in advance.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:36 pm

You might want to put a link to this post in FigJam's thread on swamp coolers.
However, cutting a hole in the roof panel would not hurt structural integrity. We cut out windows in every side wall plus the door side. Then we install plastic windows using the cut-outs so that we can close the windows. We tried using a/c filters on some windows, but they let in too much dust, so now the windows are permanent.

We've never cut holes in our roof, and after last year's rain, certainly glad we didn't too.

The only caveat is to not cut holes too close to the ends of any panel. 6" inset minimum.
mrfunsacramento wrote:Any advice on venting my H12 hexayurt for use with a swamp cooler? The main idea seems to be to cut a hole in the wall, and tape a furnace filter over it, but the drawback seems to be that anything above the height of the window is hot moist air. Does it damage the structural integrity to cut a hole in a roof panel? Would one hole be plenty for any size fan? (I'm looking at a fan with a max of 900 cfm).

Thanks in advance.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Julie Danger » Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:27 am

On swamp coolers, here's the DIY page most people seem to use; http://www.instructables.com/id/Portabl ... mp-cooler/

and here's a few lines of (disconnected) advice from some users:
I use an RV swamp cooler made by Turbokool (http://www.turbokool.com/, near
Carson City, Nevada). It is elegantly simple. Yes, this is more expensive
than a home-brew mechanism. The first year I took a hexayurt to the playa I
found 12v computer fans totally inadequate. Their CFM (about 75) is an
order of magnitude less than what you need. So, I went bigger.

You won’t have an exhaust problem in a tent, where achieving air flow is
easy, but I needed to add an exhaust fan to pull air out of the hexayurt and
keep the humidity and temperature down. This is a good thing, since the
hexayurt was still air-tight and thus dust-proof. The evaporation mat in
the swamp cooler also made an excellent – and self-cleaning - dust filter.

My first swamp cooler last year had a solar submergable
fountain in the bottom, which sprayed the water onto the cooler mats inside
the trash can when the sun was up. We also used a bank of four solar
powered computer fans, they didn't seem to main the slight moisture in the
duct. We just put them in line to a 4 inch flexible duct pipe ( like for a
dryer vent) It turned itself on when the sun came up and cooled our entire
monkey hut shade structure. Everyone loved hanging out in the cool moist
breeze.
Julie Danger

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by jding » Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:43 am

Hello!
I'm building a hexayurt for Burning Man and had a few questions:
1) Will the H13 hold up to the playa conditions as well as the standard configuration?
2) I've read that the final taping that goes in an unbroken ring between the wall and roof panels adds a lot of structural integrity to the yurt. What happens if I cut my door into that? (ie, cut it into both the wall and the adjacent roof panel so that the entryway is higher)
3) Can I do just a rope anchor, or do I need both rope and tape anchors?
4) Should I cut a window into every panel? I don't see how I can predict how the breeze will going, so I figure if I prep a window per panel I can open the ones I want and keep the others closed.
Thanks!!!
jin

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Thu Jul 14, 2011 12:21 pm

jding wrote:Hello!
I'm building a hexayurt for Burning Man and had a few questions:
1) Will the H13 hold up to the playa conditions as well as the standard configuration?
I've never used that configuration nor have I personally seen it on the playa. I'm sort of a hexayurt purist and I think that the original design, because of its simplicity of design, is perfect as it is.
jding wrote:2) I've read that the final taping that goes in an unbroken ring between the wall and roof panels adds a lot of structural integrity to the yurt. What happens if I cut my door into that? (ie, cut it into both the wall and the adjacent roof panel so that the entryway is higher)
A "yurt" is a yurt because of that "tension band" that goes around the entire structure unbroken.
Can you cut the door all the way to the roof? Yes. Should you? Not for me to say. I personally wouldn't. Why not build one with 6' high walls? (I personally don't like the 8' high walls for several reasons, first among them is the amount of vertical surface area that would be resisting the wind.)
jding wrote:3) Can I do just a rope anchor, or do I need both rope and tape anchors?
And you would attach the rope anchors how? I have seen rope anchors used effectively on the playa. Personally, I like the original design.
jding wrote:4) Should I cut a window into every panel? I don't see how I can predict how the breeze will going, so I figure if I prep a window per panel I can open the ones I want and keep the others closed.
Thanks!!!
jin
We cut a window on every side. However, we cover them with Plexiglas windows. The first year we got the bright idea of using Velcro to attached the windows so as to be able to replace them with hvac filters. Bad idea. The filters either clogged and didn't work and allowed dust into the yurt. Which is the second reason we camp in the yurt to begin with...NO DUST.

We now have a two room yurt, the bedroom has 4' high walls (3 1/2' high door) and the main living area has 6' high walls (5 1/2' door). This way I only have to bend over twice a day! The yurt is also air-conditioned.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Julie Danger » Thu Jul 14, 2011 1:11 pm

I'm with JKisha: go for a 10' hexayurt, it's a bit better guarantee. Excellent points about cutting into the tension ring w/ the door on the H13. See this for more discussion: http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... exayurt.3F
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by jding » Thu Jul 14, 2011 1:49 pm

Thanks! I'll go with the time-tested and simplest configuration, especially as it's my first time building this.
And by rope anchor, I meant rope halo. Oops. It sounds like I can choose to go with tape anchors or a rope halo, but should I do both anyway? I'm thinking it's better to overbuild.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by lucky420 » Thu Jul 14, 2011 1:50 pm

we did the tape halo with rope anchors at every corner-6 in all
Oh my god, it's HUGE!

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by ConnieH » Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:53 pm

jding wrote:Thanks! I'll go with the time-tested and simplest configuration, especially as it's my first time building this.
And by rope anchor, I meant rope halo. Oops. It sounds like I can choose to go with tape anchors or a rope halo, but should I do both anyway? I'm thinking it's better to overbuild.
I'm thinking of doing a rope halo in addition to the tape anchors this year, not that I think it's necessary, just for peace of mind. Last year, 2 of my tape anchors failed during the rain storm and had we not been there to hold down the yurt during a wind gust, we would have lost it. Part of it was my fault, I didn't make the tape tail long enough and didn't smooth the tape down well enough and the anchor slipped out from under the tape...I'll be much more fastidious about how I attach my tape anchors this year! But generally, well adhered tape anchors at every corner do just fine, just don't make the mistake I made :wink: Dust can also loosen your tape adhesion - be sure any areas you tape on playa are as free from dust as possible.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:20 pm

There is no way the tape anchors will give out or come lose if constructed properly. This will be the fourth year bringing yurts and last year half our camp used them. We use the basic design exactly as Vinay specs out on his site and we have never had a failure.

That rope halo idea does work and I have seen it on the playa. Again, personally I see no need for it, but each to their own.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Korwedge » Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:57 pm

My yurt is going on its 4th year now, and I love it. The problem I'm having is the six inch bi-filament tape only lasts one year for me. I do have to store it outside in a tarp for the year between burns. The glue on the tape is dry and no longer stays stuck to the R-Max, so each year I just pull it all off, but then I have to meticulously clean the areas where the old tape was applied (old dry glue dust/debris). Once the panels have been scrubbed with a light wire brush a few times and sprayed clean, they dry and then are ready for new 6-inch bi-filament tape.

Anyone have any similar experiences preparing their already-been-used yurt for it's next use?

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:38 pm

Korwedge wrote:My yurt is going on its 4th year now, and I love it. The problem I'm having is the six inch bi-filament tape only lasts one year for me. I do have to store it outside in a tarp for the year between burns. The glue on the tape is dry and no longer stays stuck to the R-Max, so each year I just pull it all off, but then I have to meticulously clean the areas where the old tape was applied (old dry glue dust/debris). Once the panels have been scrubbed with a light wire brush a few times and sprayed clean, they dry and then are ready for new 6-inch bi-filament tape.

Anyone have any similar experiences preparing their already-been-used yurt for it's next use?
Unfortunately, that's just the way it is. The alkali dust and the sun take their tole on the tape. We have found that if you don't clean the yurt until you're preparing for the following year, it makes the tape and it's residue easier to remove.
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by andreas97 » Sat Jul 16, 2011 3:32 pm

Okay.
We just built a 4 piece hinged H13 today. Lot of planning, but it went together great!

The 4 pieces (2 wall, 2 roof) fold into a 4x8 stack for travel, and it's nice inside! (especially for us over 6 foot folks)
:)

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by mrfunsacramento » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:14 pm

Thanks everyone for the advice in this thread, and especially to Julie. The semi-folding design is just brilliant; I was able to get 13 sheets of RMax (one spare) successfully home on the top of my sedan, and am cutting in windows and doors before creating my loose and tight hinges.

Anyhow, my question relates to the door on an H12. The advice on appropedia discusses the advantage of leaving a threshold (that is, not cutting the door all the way to the ground, but leaving three or four inches) which is reinforced with wooden boards on the inside and out (to prevent ruining your door panel when you trip over this).

Have folks found not cutting the door to the ground to be advantageous? I looked at the all the pictures I could find of hexayurts online, and couldn't find one where the door goes to the ground. I'm pretty tall, and pretty clumsy, and the thought of carrying an ice chest through a 42" high door with a 4" threshold has me a little worried.

I also have a question about furnace filters. In this thread, folks talk about taping furnace filters over their windows to provide ventilation, but someone else said these were useless because they clog too quickly. I've got a box type (not bucket type) swamp cooler with a reasonably powerful fan, so I need a way to get air out. Will taping filters over a couple of windows work, or do I need some sort of exhaust fan system? I was planning on using a couple of 3M 12"x24" filters over slightly smaller holes.

Thanks in advance!

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by FIGJAM » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:03 pm

One filter will do the job.

The air going out through that filter will be mostly dust free, as the wet pads tend to "wash" the air coming into the yurt.

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:44 pm

Please excuse if I've missed this question and its answer before.

Difference between using:
* 1.5" board vs.
* 1" bonded to 1/2" with construction adhesive

Which is stronger?
Is there a better adhesive?
Can we rely upon the bond between the radiant barrier and the foam core?

I can get both 1" and 1/2" here easily, but 1.5" is special order, and time is running out.

Thanks,
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:45 pm

We cut the doors on all the yurts in our camp all the way down. You will only end up doing exactly what you think you will be doing--tripping on it and cussing every time you enter and exit. I don't suggest cutting the door any closer than 6" to the top side of the panel. Even 42" was a bitch for me bending over every time I went in or out, so we build a second yurt that had 6' tall walls and attached the two. Now I only have to bend over twice a day--once when going to bed, and once when getting up in the morning. Going in and out of the living area of the yurt is a breeze. :)

We used filters the first year only. They didn't work all that well. We now just tape those plastic window panes over the windows for light. But our yurts are also air-conditioned.
mrfunsacramento wrote:Thanks everyone for the advice in this thread, and especially to Julie. The semi-folding design is just brilliant; I was able to get 13 sheets of RMax (one spare) successfully home on the top of my sedan, and am cutting in windows and doors before creating my loose and tight hinges.

Anyhow, my question relates to the door on an H12. The advice on appropedia discusses the advantage of leaving a threshold (that is, not cutting the door all the way to the ground, but leaving three or four inches) which is reinforced with wooden boards on the inside and out (to prevent ruining your door panel when you trip over this).

Have folks found not cutting the door to the ground to be advantageous? I looked at the all the pictures I could find of hexayurts online, and couldn't find one where the door goes to the ground. I'm pretty tall, and pretty clumsy, and the thought of carrying an ice chest through a 42" high door with a 4" threshold has me a little worried.

I also have a question about furnace filters. In this thread, folks talk about taping furnace filters over their windows to provide ventilation, but someone else said these were useless because they clog too quickly. I've got a box type (not bucket type) swamp cooler with a reasonably powerful fan, so I need a way to get air out. Will taping filters over a couple of windows work, or do I need some sort of exhaust fan system? I was planning on using a couple of 3M 12"x24" filters over slightly smaller holes.

Thanks in advance!
JK
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:47 pm

One inch panels are more than sufficient. You are wasting your money on thicker boards. Going on four years for our first yurt and two years for the second--both made of 1" panels. They are remarkably sturdy when taped together.
Canoe wrote:Please excuse if I've missed this question and its answer before.

Difference between using:
* 1.5" board vs.
* 1" bonded to 1/2" with construction adhesive

Which is stronger?
Is there a better adhesive?
Can we rely upon the bond between the radiant barrier and the foam core?

I can get both 1" and 1/2" here easily, but 1.5" is special order, and time is running out.

Thanks,
JK
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Canoe » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:59 pm

jkisha wrote:One inch panels are more than sufficient. You are wasting your money on thicker boards. Going on four years for our first yurt and two years for the second--both made of 1" panels. They are remarkably sturdy when taped together.
Thanks for relaying the first-hand experience!

Do you feel there would be any benefit with the extra 50% insulation?
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Hondovious » Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:40 pm

Just brought my insulation home from HD tonight to start work on my yurt. Tape has shipped and should be here soon. I am building what I refer to as an H15, which like Jkisha's, will have an extra 2 feet per wall staggered above and below for strength. I also bought some 7/16 OSB which I will sandwich the insulation with on one wall 4' wide and 6' high, and cut the door out of that (probably from the ground to 5') so I can use real hinges and a lock. Not to say that I don't trust all 50k+ of you, but I will be camping on A, and there is no fucking way I trust all 50k+ of you ;)

Next, to start my bucket swamp cooler. Bought my eu2000i genny today. Can't wait for the burn. )'(

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Korwedge » Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:23 pm

How about some tips for pre-taping sections before departure to the playa?

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Re: HexaYurts

Post by Elderberry » Tue Aug 02, 2011 5:40 am

No.
Canoe wrote:
jkisha wrote:One inch panels are more than sufficient. You are wasting your money on thicker boards. Going on four years for our first yurt and two years for the second--both made of 1" panels. They are remarkably sturdy when taped together.
Thanks for relaying the first-hand experience!

Do you feel there would be any benefit with the extra 50% insulation?
JK
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Re: HexaYurts

Post by ConnieH » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:25 am

mrfunsacramento wrote:I also have a question about furnace filters. In this thread, folks talk about taping furnace filters over their windows to provide ventilation, but someone else said these were useless because they clog too quickly. I've got a box type (not bucket type) swamp cooler with a reasonably powerful fan, so I need a way to get air out. Will taping filters over a couple of windows work, or do I need some sort of exhaust fan system? I was planning on using a couple of 3M 12"x24" filters over slightly smaller holes.

Thanks in advance!
I have two windows on opposing sides, 12x24" that I cover with furnace filters, I think the windows do help with airflow, but what I found with a swamp cooler last year was that the air above 4' was hot and muggy while the cooler was running. My swamp cooler inlet was positioned at about 40" from the ground - fine for napping, but stand up and it feels hot. This year I'm going to cut a small hole in the roof and install a computer fan exhaust...gonna test it with and without the fan to see if there is any difference. I think having an exhaust hole higher up will pull the humid air out, cuz hot air rises...we'll see.

Also, if you use furnace filters over the windows, be sure to beat them gently from the inside to knock off the dust that accumulates on the outside. And I went with more of a cheaper brand of filter, they seem to have better airflow but still keep most of the dust out.

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