2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

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Various
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2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby Various » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:17 pm

I need to build a small add-on "porch" to my carports and am debating EMT vs wood. Is building an 8x8x8' simple structure, or maybe a 16x8x8, out of 2x3s with a tarp on top and no sides, lag bolted with ratchet strap tiedowns, going to have any potential for an engineering fail? (I do understand the MOOP issues with wood). 2x3s would just be so cheap and easy. I guess I could use 2x4s for $10 all in.

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motskyroonmatick
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby motskyroonmatick » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:40 pm

I've found EMT structures to be much more reliable than wood. Wood can be made bomb proof out there but it involves much more work than building a Flat shade out of EMT.
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EGAZ
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby EGAZ » Tue Jul 18, 2017 1:12 am

X2.... :mrgreen:
2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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Joeln
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby Joeln » Tue Jul 18, 2017 5:27 am

The nice thing about EMT is the joints are easy, cheap and rigid. Wood moops.
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Just_Joe
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby Just_Joe » Tue Jul 18, 2017 6:49 am

I did a 12x24 out of 2x4 with mesh top two years in a row. It was predrilled and I used carriage bolts. With rachets and rebar, it held up fine. The big pita was that it became a puzzle-- piece A, hole #1 to piece B, hole #3, etc.
For an 8x8 or 10x10 (8 pcs lumber), 2x4, deck screws and guylines would be enough to handle a solid tarp.
One thing to note is that lumber dries quick out here. It's best to screw when it still has some moisture in it. If dry, you need pilot holes to prevent splitting, which then becomes a moop issue if done on playa.

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some seeing eye
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby some seeing eye » Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:31 am

Yes, I've used it with Aluminet in a tensegrity structure. 14x10 and 21x25. No cutting, just preinstalled 2 1/2 in drywall screws, so no moop. It can be burned at the event or donated, since they were 8' no cuts.

You will need to decide if a tarp and the wind works for you. Tarps are noisy. A precut and grommeted piece of Aluminet (order that ASAP, before the rush) should not be too expensive and simply put a drywall screw sticking out the top of your 2x3 and slip the grommet over it. Maybe you have a use at home for that piece of shade material the rest of the year? Or get a longer piece and bring it down the sides of your shade porch.

Each corner was anchored to rebar with tiewraps and a screw out the side of the 2x3 to keep it from lifting. In my case the Aluminet was not the tension element. So I had a square of rope connecting the 4 corners and an x at the top. The diagonal guys at the corners.

The wood I got was green douglas fir - home despot in Reno. It dried but is still solid after several burns. Try not to get hemlock it splits easily.

The advantage of EMT with corner joints is you are starting on a modular shade structure that can be expanded to any size a'la Black Rock Hardware or https://www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com/Shadehouses.htm. There have been many discussions on sources for the joints and you can upgrade to chain link fence tubing or even aluminum tubing with the right size connectors.
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Various
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby Various » Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:08 am

Just_Joe wrote:It's best to screw when it still has some moisture in it.


Sage advice.

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Token
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Re: 2x3s strong enough to build shade structures?

Postby Token » Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:37 am

Various wrote:
Just_Joe wrote:It's best to screw when it still has some moisture in it.


Sage advice.


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