Kodiak 10x14 Simple Shade Structure and PVC Question

[nosys]

First post

Have done a bunch of reading on shade structures for Kodiak tents (and everything else - thanks all for sharing) and just can't quite nail (lag screw) down what I want to do.

After much research, we purchased a Kodiak 10x14 which is an amazing palace of a tent. Obviously want to have some shade over the tent - however, the size and the height of the tent make it a bit challenging. We're driving an Acura TL sedan in - we'll fit everything besides what we'd need to build a big ass monkey hut.

My thought is this - rather than do a full EMT structure, will it work to just put up four PVC poles on rebar with guy lines and then fix a tarp + aluminet to the top/sides? Is it really necessary to have the horizontal top PVC for the structure?

Side PVC question: it seems that everyone uses long lengths of PVC for their EMT/monkey huts. In an effort to make the PVC more transportable, I've seen differing opinions on what you can do from a coupling perspective. Can you couple two 5' PVC lengths together and not risk danger in the conditions of the playa?

[Popeye]

First post

Have done a bunch of reading on shade structures for Kodiak tents (and everything else - thanks all for sharing) and just can't quite nail (lag screw) down what I want to do.

After much research, we purchased a Kodiak 10x14 which is an amazing palace of a tent. Obviously want to have some shade over the tent - however, the size and the height of the tent make it a bit challenging. We're driving an Acura TL sedan in - we'll fit everything besides what we'd need to build a big ass monkey hut.

My thought is this - rather than do a full EMT structure, will it work to just put up four PVC poles on rebar with guy lines and then fix a tarp + aluminet to the top/sides? Is it really necessary to have the horizontal top PVC for the structure
I believe it is necessary. EMT over revar is not a tight fit and your structure will flop around without a crossmember..

Side PVC question: it seems that everyone uses long lengths of PVC for their EMT/monkey huts. In an effort to make the PVC more transportable, I've seen differing opinions on what you can do from a coupling perspective. Can you couple two 5' PVC lengths together and not risk danger in the conditions of the playa?

If you make your own coupling then maybe it would be ok. Off the shelf couplings will break. They did on me my first year and I would not use them again.

[lucky420]

I just drape a big ol piece of aluminum over mine

[Token]

Nosys, you are tossing both EMT and PVC concepts but talking about a Monkey Hut - I.e. a Quonset.

Let’s slow down and sort some of the excitement.

A Monkey Hut is built from PVC pipe that is bent and tensioned to give it great strength in a single dimensional plane. Many of these are arranged like ribs to form a tunnel and a big ol’ tarp is nailed down on top of it to hold everything in place.

EMT is a metal conduit that is rigid and is used to build carport-like shade structures using connectors that hold things together at right angles.

Neither of these will fit into/onto your Acura TL.

Lucky is spot on with Aluminet but you gotta hurry and order now.

Add some pool noodles to space the Aluminet a bit on the tent.

[some seeing eye]

Another ePlayan solved the Monkey Hut arch length problem for that tent. It is longer than 20'. I have attached roof rack bars to rental cars using the vehicle-specific bracket with my own rack. Then I transported 20' 1" pvc pipes bent over the hood towards the front bumper and hanging out the back with a red flag for maybe 5' and with a rope to the rear bumper. There may be pipe recycling after the event off playa. Mine went into my yard for sprinklers and wiring. Easy to dispose of at home on CL. You can get the pipe and silver tarps at a building supply store inbound, or bring from home.

If you are using Aluminet, you can make a tensegrity box.

[krly]

A number of people join lengths of pvc or emt. The pvc uses 12"-18" of the next larger size as a "sleeve" (i.e. if using 1" ribs use 1 1/4" for sleeves). If using emt just buy the proper size "connector" from the store you buy your corners and Tees from.

[nosys]

Then I transported 20' 1" pvc pipes bent over the hood towards the front bumper and hanging out the back with a red flag for maybe 5' and with a rope to the rear bumper.

If you are using Aluminet, you can make a tensegrity box.

Kudos on the monkey hut - that size is out of the question (this year). Thinking we'll do a three-pole tensegrity in front of the tent for shade.

Let’s slow down and sort some of the excitement.
.....
Lucky is spot on with Aluminet but you gotta hurry and order now.
Add some pool noodles to space the Aluminet a bit on the tent.

Not the first or last time I've read a post of yours Token & Lucky. Thanks. Thinking draping the Aluminet and spacing out so we have an air pocket above, combined with tensegrity for common area shade will work.

Curious how significant the difference between a proper EMT/Monkey shade structure and the draped Aluminet in terms of temperature inside the tent. Any thoughts?

[Token]

Curious how significant the difference between a proper EMT/Monkey shade structure and the draped Aluminet in terms of temperature inside the tent. Any thoughts?

Shade of any kind will buy you an hour of extra sleep, more or less, with a full canvas tent.

A good canvas tent, an RV with no A/C, doesn’t matter, it gets hot as an oven. Any enclosed sealed space will become unbearable in time.

The key is to adapt, have enough shade outside the tent where the breeze is wonderful, and camp chairs for napping.

BM taught me how to nap whenever a good spot shows up.

[skyy]

I'll throw my two cents on this thread too since sharing is caring.

Hello Everyone!

I'm not sure if this is still relevant to your thread but I opted not to build a monkey hut but rather create a lightweight PVC structure that can attach directly to the Kodiak tension rods.

The picture below was from pre-burn 2019. I learned a few lessons during the burn which included drilling some holes through the major intersection points for a bolt and nut to secure everything in place (the PVC tended to pull out of the joints since there was no adhesive). Additionally I extended the top bars (the ones perpendicular to the main metal rod on top of the tent) in order to account for the curvature of the roof when the kodiak is erected.

I threw the aluminet over top of the whole thing once erected (or you can put it in place before erecting the tent for an easier time)

The added distance between the kodiak the aluminet gave an additional insulation layer of air which kept the tent considerably cooler compared to laying aluminet directly over the tent.

This set up allowed me to break the PVC down into small enough pieces such that it fit in the "bar bag" that came with the kodiak and didn't require extra bags to carry in and out.

Unfortunately I didn't get an picture of it completely set up but I think you get the idea

[Canoe]

I like the concept.
And even though it's larger, if the cover goes to ground with a lower angle, it smooths the wind going over. And since that cover is aluminet, the aluminet also buffers the wind gusts.
Shame there's no picture of it setup.

If the wind leaving the flat top had any buffeting, you could probably curve the top bars, or add a curved top bar.

There's also pool-noodles to soften the bars for the aluminet. Place and tape before the cover goes on.

[skyy]

Actually my roommate took a picture and just found it. It's perfect because it shows another kodiak to the right of ours without the setup for comparison. There is a "baby" kodiak directly in front of our tent in the photo but it should suffice.

On the far left we had a camp/group shade structure for those with tents and no shade. In the picture below we had my aluminet connected to the group shade tarp, but we ultimately placed another Kodiak between the group shade and mine so the top was pretty flat all the way across. However, we pieced our aluminet together almost in an elongated (+) plus shape to fit the profile of a stand alone kodiak so by itself without attaching to others its does a good job of cutting the wind down too.

I added an extra foot of pvc piping post-burn along the shorter ends (10 ft side of the 10x14 kodiak) so it does curve along the top now to account for the dip in the tension bars that occurs when you set up the regular kodiak.