How do I know when to refill my lead-acid battery?

phil · Post by **phil** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:45 pm

I've got a lead acid battery, marine and not sealed. I looked in the holes today, and I can see water, but I have no indication how high the level should be. When do I add distilled water?

Gravity Mike · Post by **Gravity Mike** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:50 pm

The level *should* be on the side of the battery. Usually the problem I have is seeing the water level through the side of the battery. You need a good light to 'candle' the contents well enough.

If no level indicated on the outside, my best guess is to make sure the metals are covered... I've not seen a battery without a level indication on the outside (doesn't mean they don't exist).

Gravity Mike

phil · Post by **phil** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:32 pm

The casing is completely black and opaque. You have to pry off caps and look down in each well for water levels.

MikeVDS · Post by **MikeVDS** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:38 pm

A lot of things are done incorrectly where I work, but I know the electric buggies they just top off the batteries. I don't know if it's right or wrong, but I haven't noticed them having any battery problems.

SnowBlind · Post by **SnowBlind** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:44 pm

What Gravity Mike said is dead on: You need to look inside and make sure the metal is covered. Fill it a little higher than the metal. Shine a flashlight inside if you cant see the metal.

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:21 pm

In my batteries, the plastic things that come down from the hole are supposed to be just covered by water.
The important thing is to keep the plates covered at all times.
And don't set a battery down hard, especially when it is discharged.
This can kill them by dropping flakes off the plates and shorting it out.

Be sure to use distilled water.

Toolmaker · Post by **Toolmaker** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:48 pm

Depending on the make of battery, ambient temperature etc you could add acid/water every other year as I do here in Miami. I would imagine that out west in Nevada and other dry states you might want to do it more often possibly even take a peek twice a year. You want to keep the level above the cells as mentioned. I prefer to top off with the juice but distilled water can be used in a pinch.

Isotopia · Post by **Isotopia** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:56 pm

How do I know when to refill my lead-acid battery?

When the jumper cables clamped to your tits stop givng you that special feeling?

Archantael · Post by **Archantael** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:20 am

You could eyeball it and guess at what's right or you could pick up a cheap multimeter and battery hydrometer from a local auto parts house and do it right. There's lots of info online about how to do it, Exide has a good page on battery care that covers all sorts of related issues that you'll likely run into.

http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/ ... _care.html

For your specific question look at the article on "Checking Battery Condition".

Lassen Forge · Post by **Lassen Forge** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:24 am

Battery Shit 101. By bb. Read at your own risk.

Fill with DISTILLED water until you have covered the top of the metal plates inside. NOT all the way to the top. If you see the plates sticking out of the electrolyte (battery acid) add DISTILLED water. (Yeah, it makes a difference. Not drinking water, not purified water - distilled water.)

DO NOT ADD ACID unless you want to watch a battery become an acid volcano. BTST (Been there, saw that). Once.

There WILL be an air space between the top of the water and the top inside of the battery. Supposed to be there. Don't fill all the way to the top of the little holes - not good as battery acid will sploosh out the top vent holes during regular usage, messing up whatever it hits (paint, metal, clothes, hands, hair...)

Turkey basters work good for car batteries. Eyedroppers for motorcycle batteries.

IF you get battery acid spilled on you, rinse your body parts in a mix of water and baking soda (about a fridge box to the half gallon or somesuch) to neutralize the acidm, then flush the sodawater off with volumnous deluges of water. ESPECIALLY if you get it in your hair, as it will eat holes in the back of your top. (Don't ask... you can guess...) DO NOT put mr. Baking Soda Water into Mr. Battery as it will not like you any more and go on permanent strike, and die like a frat boy with a movie camera on the playa during CT. If you get the shit in your eyes, get them under a flood of a shitload of water while someone calls 9-1-1 right fucking now. If you swallow battery acid you shouldn't be fucking with batteries. Or anything else, probably.

SMALL PRINT - SQUINT AND READ: As usual all disclaimers apply, as if you do something really fucking stupid (like blow up your battery by dropping a wrench across the battery terminals or kill your battery or lick the battery caps to see what they taste like or other really dumb shit!) it's on you, I claim no responsibility for what you do wrong. Even if it's becuz you can't read or follow simple instructions or have a lick of common sense.

bb

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:03 pm

Do not use warm water on battery acid.

unjonharley · Post by **unjonharley** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:20 pm

Unplug your battery charger at the wall before removing the post clamps.. NO SPARK.. NO BLOW HEAD OFF..

Post by **mdmf007** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:03 pm

never touch your clothing after working with batteries either!!!. cause you will have nice holes there the next time you wash them, cotton and battery acid love each other.

the cotton just disintegrates into a frayed mess.

later

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:07 pm

Clothes are often okay if you wash them now.
Otherwise....

unjonharley · Post by **unjonharley** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:33 pm

mdmf007 wrote:never touch your clothing after working with batteries either!!!. cause you will have nice holes there the next time you wash them, cotton and battery acid love each other.

the cotton just disintegrates into a frayed mess.

later

\/
Add a lot of baking soda to the laundry water..

Toolmaker · Post by **Toolmaker** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:56 pm

BBsue mentioned something very important that I failed to mention. If you do decide to get into battery maintenance there are procedures that must be followed lest you blow yourself up or get badly burned. If you use electrolytes to maintain/top off you have to empty the battery first. Than you get the sulfates off the plates with a process involving Tetrasodium EDTA which is kinda cheap. Also make sure your fresh acid mix is measured with a hygrometer after it cools. You alot add the acid to the water SLOWLY due to heat generation. Adding water to the acid will generate the heat alot faster. This is done OUTSIDE of the battery of course. If anyone is interested I think I can dig up the process details. Its been awhile since I've done it but it's not that hard.

Most folks should just add a little distilled water and be done with it. Only a lunatic like me would bother tryin to get sulfates knocked off of the plates and get into all the mess associated with reviving batteries and whatnot. I just can't throw anything out without at least tryin to save it or find a use for it.

LeChatNoir · Post by **LeChatNoir** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:02 am

Toolmaker wrote:I just can't throw anything out without at least tryin to save it or find a use for it.

I knew I liked you for a reason.

Lassen Forge · Post by **Lassen Forge** » Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:17 am

Thank you!!! (I like you too!) I couldn't remember what it was that was used to de-sulfidate batteries - not that important unless you're trying to save an antique one with a bizarre size that is sulfated to death.

bb

photon · Post by **photon** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 12:25 pm

One of the best ways to break up sulfation-charge it! Chronic undercharging and leaving it in a discharged state is the biggest issue most should have to deal with. An ordinary charger usuallly will not do the job. One specifically for deep cycle batteries like an Iota DLS charger (just don't go over a 20% charge rate- 100 amp hour battery equals 20 amp charger at most) since it will charge to 14.4 or 14.8 v if modified. Also, if modified it can go up another .6 volts which would put you in the equalization range of 15.5-16vdc. Most quality charge controllers for solar panels will have full adjustments to meet any of the criteria specific for your battery type. If it's sulfated, equalize it. Unless the plates are exposed add the distilled water after equalizing or you'll have acid all over the place. The more the battery is held at float or EQ charge the more it will gas and the more distilled water you add. Take the other recommendations not to add electrolyte unless you are experienced, dumb or actually have spillt a good amount from the battery already.
If you want more info about modifying one of these Iota chargers and have a multimeter and electrical sense feel free to email me at [email protected].