Mission "I beadder do this"

[wh..sh]

Here's my vision for BM 2012 accessory (sort of) -

I have two left hands when it comes to any clothing/accessory making. I have never indulged in that kind of creativity.
So, even though this project is small compared to what many of you have accomplished, this IS a big, complicated start for me.

The base for my inspiration is to follow along the line of Maasai African beaded neck collar, pic below.

My initial plan was to make something exactly like this (if I succeed, it would be an achievement in itself).
But now I want to make it more free flowing than a stiff collar and make something almost like a metal chain armor.
So far I only have the concept in my head.





PS: Thanks JS

[FIGJAM]

Might be hard to make that MOOP proof.

[Ugly Dougly]

Might be hard to make that MOOP proof.

Chain mail? Surely you jest.

[theCryptofishist]

Do you have any experience with wire work? One suggestion, get good beading pliers and if at all possible get them with handles that go past the palm of your hand, so you're not risking injury.
Another suggestion. Do a smaller wirework project (or projects) first, to see if you like it.

[junglesmacks]

Hmm.. you seem to have an idea brewing up in the head for sure. Next step would've to translate that to paper to help you visualize it. Start by making a loose sketch of an overall design.. neatness doesn't count. Just brainstorm and sketch freehand.

Next, start compartmentalizing the idea into what it would take to get what you want done. How would you pattern the beads? How would you bend the wire?

I find that when I want to build something big if I just break it down into logical sections.. then those sections into sections.. address all concerns in all sections.. then all the pieces fit together like a perfect puzzle. This way, you don't get overwhelmed by the sum of all the parts. Just worry about the parts!

[trilobyte]

Both ideas sound pretty cool. The vest might be a bit heavy (but would be a lot less heavy than actual chainmail), good luck with the project!

[theCryptofishist]

My mother once made me an egyptian type collar for a costume party by sewing a cloth collar and then decorating with fabric paint. (Which is around the other side absolutely simpler, if you're strength is sewing, as I know yours isn't. However, I often work under the principle that throwing out a lot of ideas leads to better focus and better result. You're perfectly free to ignore me.)

[wh..sh]

Fishy - My only experience with bead work is when I meddled with my 6 yr old niece's jewelry-making kit... she wasn't happy. Fishy, I absolutely welcome your ideas.

JS - Thanks. You are right. That's how I work as well. Once I put my concept down on paper, I would be able to logically split the work.

FIGJAM - Yes, its absolutely essential that whatever I make doesn't break on playa or I will be spending whole week picking tiny beads off the ground **shudders**
MOOP safety is on my mind.

I am not really looking to make a chainmail vest like in the picture. Its just an example of how I want it to flow. I am meeting with few friends (who have some bead knowledge) this Friday to conceptualise this project.

I am look for ideas, unforeseen issues (like MOOP safety), or tips. It's really helpful!

[Eric]

I have friends who are beaders- it's a lot more complicated than it looks, yet very simple once you have the principles down. I don't remember where you live, but check for local beading stores & see if they offer classes. I would definitely start with a simple project & then work your way up to the full vest.

If you're positive this is something you want to do, and you're willing & able to put down the initial investment, get the best equipement you can afford right at the beginning. The idea of learning on crap & then buying better stuff when you can afford it is, honestly, stupid unless you are broke. With most jewelers (and beaders) tools better quality = better work. Don't get the cheap, likely-to-rust industrial pliers, get the good ones (something like this)

I highly recommend Rio Grande (see link above) for jewelers tools & supplies, they've been my main source for over a decade now. Fire Mountain specializes in beading supplies, but I don't know if they sell retail or only wholesale (Rio Grande does both).

[Ugly Dougly]

No, you're not "risking injury" by working with wire!

Check out thess places for ideas and inspiration:
http://theringlord.com/
http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/ ... gi?key=202

[theCryptofishist]

I have friends who are beaders- it's a lot more complicated than it looks, yet very simple once you have the principles down. I don't remember where you live, but check for local beading stores & see if they offer classes. I would definitely start with a simple project & then work your way up to the full vest.

If you're positive this is something you want to do, and you're willing & able to put down the initial investment, get the best equipement you can afford right at the beginning. The idea of learning on crap & then buying better stuff when you can afford it is, honestly, stupid unless you are broke. With most jewelers (and beaders) tools better quality = better work. Don't get the cheap, likely-to-rust industrial pliers, get the good ones (something like this)I highly recommend Rio Grande (see link above) for jewelers tools & supplies, they've been my main source for over a decade now. Fire Mountain specializes in beading supplies, but I don't know if they sell retail or only wholesale (Rio Grande does both).

Fire Mountain does retail and have no shipping anymore. (I think, it's been a long time since I ordered.)
(Colored text is where I strongly agree with Eric.)

[AntiM]

I haven't done wire work, but I have looms and tons of beads. My beaded jacket will never get near the playa. Beading kills my eyes these days though, but I really should make more pieces. My best was a tank panel for Larry's old Harley.

[wh..sh]

I haven't done wire work, but I have looms and tons of beads. My beaded jacket will never get near the playa. Beading kills my eyes these days though, but I really should make more pieces. My best was a tank panel for Larry's old Harley.

calls for pictures!

[wh..sh]

I have friends who are beaders- it's a lot more complicated than it looks, yet very simple once you have the principles down. I don't remember where you live, but check for local beading stores & see if they offer classes. I would definitely start with a simple project & then work your way up to the full vest.

If you're positive this is something you want to do, and you're willing & able to put down the initial investment, get the best equipement you can afford right at the beginning. The idea of learning on crap & then buying better stuff when you can afford it is, honestly, stupid unless you are broke. With most jewelers (and beaders) tools better quality = better work. Don't get the cheap, likely-to-rust industrial pliers, get the good ones (something like this)

I highly recommend Rio Grande (see link above) for jewelers tools & supplies, they've been my main source for over a decade now. Fire Mountain specializes in beading supplies, but I don't know if they sell retail or only wholesale (Rio Grande does both).

Thanks for the info Eric... yes, it is complicated because it is so much detail oriented. But I will start small and see how I go about it.
I will remember the "good tools" rule.

[wh..sh]

No, you're not "risking injury" by working with wire!

Check out thess places for ideas and inspiration:
http://theringlord.com/
http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/ ... gi?key=202

This is AWEsome! Thanks for sharing.

[Drawingablank]

Many years ago I had a technique for imitating the appearance of loomed seed beads on high wear items such as moccasins which would be moop free. I learned this from a library book on Indian Crafts (pre politically correct days) and no longer remember the exact title or author as it was about 40 years ago.

1. On medium weight vegetable tanned leather (5-6 ounce) I would transfer the bead loom grid pattern.
2. The leather was then wet and the grid lines of the pattern cut in - approximately 20% of the leather thickness.
3. The leather was then allowed to dry and the shrinkage would open up the lines slightly, separating the "beads".
4. Using a fine point brush, the "beads" were then painted following the desired pattern.

Since the design is actually an integral part of the leather made to resemble beads there is nothing to fall off / fall apart. Not sure if this could be applied to your design, but figured I'd throw it out there as it is pretty much a lost / forgotten technique.

[illy dilly]

A long time ago, in a middle school art class we did some very simple beading like the coller at the top. But ours were just about 1.5" wide and 6" long, square. Not round!

But what we did, was get a cigar box, and cut 6-8 tiny slits at the left and right side of the box. Position the box so that the 'hinge' for the cover is away from you. If it has a pull off lid just put the slits at the two sides furthest apart. Then you put a long enough piece of string from slit 1L to slit 1R, and 2L-2R....etc. This will give you a sorta mini lume.
1L-------------------1R
2L-------------------2R
3L-------------------3R
4L-------------------4R
5L-------------------5R
6L-------------------6R
7L-------------------7R
8L-------------------8R

String 1 and 8, are the very out side strings, there are no beads out side 1 and 8. You then put one row of beads between each string 1/2,2/3,3/4...7/8, with the holes through the bead going from top to bottom.
1L-------------------1R
B1
2L-------------------2R
B2
3L-------------------3R
B3
4L-------------------4R etc.

A piece of really small string, goes over string 1, through B1, under String 2, through B2, over String 3, through B3. When you get to B7 you will finish by going under String 8, then you'll come up and over string 8 and back through B7, then under string 7, through B6, over str 6... the way to the other side.
You dothat about a billion times, tell you have 6"x1.5" worth of pattern.

To make the vest or garment, you could do this with 10"x1.5" pieces, then sow them onto a vest or shirt. Sorta like vertical 'planks' it would allow for the fabric to bend every 1.5" horizontally, and every 10" vertically.

Also, if you were to use 'pony' beads you could cover a lot more space quicker.

Another idea, is that I've seen some "kandi kids" make some pretty crazy shit with pony beads. I've seen top hats, bras, vests, and all sorts of stuff. Way back in the day I once even made a neck tie.
Maybe check out
http://kandipatterns.com/
http://kanditrade.net/wordpress/?page_id=41

Cheeses Rice! Things have changed since I was a candy kid!

[wh..sh]

A long time ago, in a middle school art class we did some very simple beading like the coller at the top. But ours were just about 1.5" wide and 6" long, square. Not round!
Cheeses Rice! Things have changed since I was a candy kid!

WOW! detailed work sheet! Thanks for putting the steps together for me.

[wh..sh]

Many years ago I had a technique for imitating the appearance of loomed seed beads on high wear items such as moccasins which would be moop free. I learned this from a library book on Indian Crafts (pre politically correct days) and no longer remember the exact title or author as it was about 40 years ago.

1. On medium weight vegetable tanned leather (5-6 ounce) I would transfer the bead loom grid pattern.
2. The leather was then wet and the grid lines of the pattern cut in - approximately 20% of the leather thickness.
3. The leather was then allowed to dry and the shrinkage would open up the lines slightly, separating the "beads".
4. Using a fine point brush, the "beads" were then painted following the desired pattern.

Since the design is actually an integral part of the leather made to resemble beads there is nothing to fall off / fall apart. Not sure if this could be applied to your design, but figured I'd throw it out there as it is pretty much a lost / forgotten technique.

I am storing this information so it will not be lost... I know few ppl who work with leather. I can talk to them about this.

I am just amazed at all the things you guys have tried and test! Totally IMPRESSED!

[TomServo]

Here's a beading spool I used to use. It's simply 3 blocks of wood nailed together, with grooves cut into the end blocks for the string...or wire. with wire, you wouldnt need a needle. I would weave a stop, before adding beads....and another when I was done. Basically, arrange the beads on the wire, place on the loom with each bead between two wires..pull wire through, and rethread beads beneath the loom. I'd worry about the wire breaking, after excessive bending. Maybe try dental floss?

[wh..sh]

Here's a beading spool I used to use. It's simply 3 blocks of wood nailed together, with grooves cut into the end blocks for the string...or wire. with wire, you wouldnt need a needle. I would weave a stop, before adding beads....and another when I was done. Basically, arrange the beads on the wire, place on the loom with each bead between two wires..pull wire through, and rethread beads beneath the loom. I'd worry about the wire breaking, after excessive bending. Maybe try dental floss?

This is the single most BRILLIANT thing I have seen today and its only 9 in the morning!!!
Thanks for sharing!

[theCryptofishist]

I'd use beading thread, you don't want to find out something is totally unsuitable after weaving 7.

[DanusLight]

I'd use beading thread, you don't want to find out something is totally unsuitable after weaving 7.

Fishy is correct. Beading thread would be good. Kevlar beading thread even better.

[TomServo]

I sewed my leather jacket with dental floss...but may be too thick. Fishing line is kinda strong.

[theCryptofishist]

It's been a long time since I cracked a beading magazine, but I think I remember hearing that fishing line stretches over time. Yeah, I'm cheap. But I also believe in using the right material for the job.

[junglesmacks]

You might want to try using new style Spectra weave type fishing line. It's like mini nylon rope and super strong for it's width and weight. 50lb line is about as thin as dental floss.

Like this. You can find it at any fishing store or WalMart..

[wh..sh]

I went to the store and the pros asked me to use the "Soft flex" wires.
Now I am researching on clasps/findings.

[theCryptofishist]

Softflex is a superior product. I just didn't know it would work in this application.

[DanusLight]

I went to the store and the pros asked me to use the "Soft flex" wires.
Now I am researching on clasps/findings.

I can see that. In looking at the collar it appears the beads are stung between 'the spokes' and not actually woven into a pattern. Although I can totally picture this done in a peyote stitch!

[illy dilly]

Here's a beading spool I used to use. It's simply 3 blocks of wood nailed together, with grooves cut into the end blocks for the string...or wire. with wire, you wouldnt need a needle. I would weave a stop, before adding beads....and another when I was done. Basically, arrange the beads on the wire, place on the loom with each bead between two wires..pull wire through, and rethread beads beneath the loom. I'd worry about the wire breaking, after excessive bending. Maybe try dental floss?

Yeah, thats more or less what I was trying to explain. Except that we used a cigar box, instead of blocks of wood.
And instead of going over all the strings on the first pass and under on the second pass, we would alternate up, down, up, down, up, down, etc.
More or less the same thing.