cooling your tent or van

Swamp Coolers, Cooler Management, Dry Ice, Misting Systems, and just plain how to beat the heat.
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spacetime
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by spacetime » Thu Sep 14, 2017 1:20 pm

I think the heat rendered even good cooler spec designs not helpful enough. It was really hot this year.

That said I think there is a reasonable case to be made for bringing out complete 5000 BTU air conditioners and doing the building portion in the solar space. Solar is cheaper and better than ever.

I'm looking at how solar and battery costs and build requirements can eliminate plumbing (or water) for both coolers and AC. There is still plenty of skill building around wiring, but I suspect ice blocks and swamp coolers may become a backup plan to solid solar setups in the future.

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by dragonpilot » Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:27 pm

asr9754 wrote:Dragon, if you indeed built it to spec with the correct fan (check the *exact* model number) and pump, and are still not getting good performance, here's some troubleshooting:

blue pad cylinder should not touch the inside of the bucket. There should be a gap. The pad slouches when wet, so if you have a gap when dry, that doesn't mean you have a gap when wet. Double check, and add a chicken wire "girdle' around the blue cylinder to support the blue pad if needed.

The lid should fit on snug and should just barely pinch the drip-hose to make a good seal. Adjust the height of the blue cylinder, adjust drip ring and lid, Put lid on carefully so as not to crush the blue pad or create gaps. The drip ring should not slide down between the 2 layers of blue pad. If is does, that's bad.

Drip hose gets clogged. Test your drip hose to make sure all the holes are flowing well. Shake out your blue pad over a trashcan to get rid of lint. Enlarge drip holes if needed.

Blue pad should be evenly wet all the way around, top to bottom. Run the pump for several minutes, then open up the cooler and check. Pad should all be evenly wet, inside and out. If you have dry spots, you have problems. Adjust drip ring and holes.

On playa: you're letting the water run too low. Refill. The duct line is too long or kinked. Put swampie as close to your window as possible to shorten the length of duct needed. Paint the duct white or silver so the sun doesn't cook it (or wrap in foil).

Your overhead vent in the trailer should be cracked open.

My swampie cools a whole trailer moderately b/c I tightened up all the little gaps and made sure it's in peak condition.
Tips! Got the chicken wire cage, lid is tight, drip ring drips slowly, plenty of water...never got too low, exact same fan as in OP, pump works great...
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Canoe
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Canoe » Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:38 pm

Mozy F Bonz wrote:Common questions asked on a swamp cooler service call.
...
Hope this helps. I know burners hate being told what they're doing wrong.
I tried to wait to see if you guys figured it out on your own.
Unfortunately, unless they post photos, it's pretty hard to guess where things went wrong.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Canoe » Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:48 pm

Mozy F Bonz wrote:The One of the flaws in this bucket design is your flowing too much water over these cooler pads. It should only be a trickle or a drip barely keeping the pad wet not a full flow stream of water running down it. When you take a flat cooler pad and your roll it up into a cylinder you're losing surface area when you run to much water down that pad you're losing more surface area. When you wrap a cage around that cooler pad to try to keep it from not touching the bucket they're losing more surface area. When the humidity starts going up you have to find tune these coolers so they work at an optimal range.
Large coolers on top of houses only have small drips of water running down into the pad not a big full stream of water.
I really do hope this helps.
The water flow of these DIY coolers is nowhere near what one gets from household lines.
The flow specified is required:
- To flush the pad of playa dust.
- Without sufficient water flow to keep the pad replenished with water, one gets dry spots in the pad, and can pass uncooled dusty air through the pad.
The blue pads have many fine fibres that results in huge water-to-air surface area. That's why substituting another pad type often results in poor performance. Don't be mislead by the foot print of the pad area.
Rolling into the bucket size as designed has little impact on air-flow paths nor water-air surface area. Scrunching the pad in anyway (some caged attempts) to get it to fit without touching the bucket sides can result in reduce flow paths and reduced surface area. Photos give this away.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Mozy F Bonz » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:08 pm

I would agree the environment these coolers are running in is much different from what's on top of the house. Principle is the same. The clamp only gives you the ability to adjust. And when you're a service tech and you're having to fix these things and people want their systems to cool for them. Your start to understand what makes it cooler and how to adjust it to make it work better. I'm not Suggesting anybody change anything about their design. Only put a clamp on the hose and try cutting back the water you're using. Cooling or dust removal which do you want? I'm sure there's a happy medium between the two. I'm just giving you one piece that I think every Buddy has been missing in these builds. Nothing more.
~

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Mozy F Bonz » Thu Sep 14, 2017 5:34 pm

Just to add a little bit of perspective.
From my dad In his 80s did this work all of his life. He describes The location of where he lived as 50 miles from Bakersfield and 50 miles from Fresno right in the middle up against the foothills. Fixed coolers in the tens of thousands.
What I've heard my dad tell a customer.
That $150 you were more than happy to pay me for the service call to come out and fix your cooler on this humid day...... and now it's blowing that beautiful cool air. all I did is screw that screw in five turns like this so you know how to adjust your cooler next time. The old ladies in the city loved him and would pay the 150 bucks just to have him come by and see them.
~

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Canoe
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Canoe » Thu Sep 14, 2017 5:54 pm

That's nice. And for those water flow rates, air flow rates, and pad media.

For these DIY swamp coolers, when built as designed with the correct parts/materials, and humidity and temperature is measured, these are cooling at or near the max according to the evaporative cooling tables. If you're getting 90%, 95% or 100% of the evaporative cooling potential, where's the improvement going to come from...

The blue duracool pad is constructed differently than the flat faceted "paper" media based pads of yester-year. The duracool pad has HUGE water-to-air surface area for the footprint area.

In these designs, when built ... etc.., cutting back on water flow results in dry spots in the pad, passing hot dusty air through the pad, raising the temperature of the cooler's output.

There have been some reports of performance issues where someone has used a crazy super-duper pump; and now you're saying that water flow may be an issue. I can see how some of the home cooler flat faceted "paper" media based pads would have their air flow paths decreased by too generous of a water flow (we've seen some coolers built with those types of media, with poor performance, particularly once they swell and have reduced air flow paths). But I've missed where you've explained how the water flow rates on these DIY cooler blue pads, where we know there are plenty of air flow paths and a humongous amount of water-to-air surface area, and the remaining factors of ambient humidity, temperature or air dwell time against water surface, can result in reduced performance.

In a related concern, I'm waiting to hear how the AFB1212GHE-CF00 240 cfm, 27.48 mm H2O fan did on the playa, as the pressure of 27.49mm instead of 17.74 mm, may suck air through the pad too quickly, reducing dwell time.
Video games are giving kids unrealistic expectations on how many swords they can carry.
.
... but don't harm the red dragon that frequents the area from time to time. He and I have an agreement.

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Mozy F Bonz » Thu Sep 14, 2017 6:49 pm

Principle is the same.
~

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:47 pm

The little pumps we use don't supply to much water.

The trickiest part of the build is getting the holes in the drip line spaced and uniform enough to flow out ALL the holes.

I know exactly what your talking about Mosy, I've dealt with swamp coolers all my life (though not as extensively as you have) , but 50 years experience does count for something. :wink:
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by EGAZ » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:11 pm

I have to disagree on the "Large coolers on top of houses only have small drips of water running down into the pad not a big full stream of water." statement. It may look like a small drip but there is a large amount of water running through the pads. Not a water fall but much more than a drip. (I too have done a lot of swamp cooler work in the past ;) )

The Bucket Coolers are a compromise to a home style cooler. Everything about it is too small. But it works for a week in the "very dry climate of the playa" when done right. I have not seen many builds with an over sized pump(s), (other than mine anyway.. lol ) The clamps you speak of do help when running swampys during conditions on the upper end of their humidity range. This is not a problem on the playa.

Edit: FigJam beat me too it.... The biggest fail I notice is not doing the holes spaced/square/on the center line/etc. on the header tube. Get this wrong and one will have dry spots no matter how much water you push through it. The other is not sealing the lid to the media allowing air to bypass the media. After that its choking down the fan duct to the cooled space or too long of duct. Then no vent.

It was so dry this year I had trouble keeping both layers of my media completely wet. I run two 130G/hr pumps. One for each layer of media. The inner pad would completely wet but the outer pad, on the upwind side, would have a dry spot or two. Even if I shut down the fan for a few minutes to let it 'catch up', it would dry out again. The more water you could throw at the pads the better this year.

It was just flat hot and dry out there. :coffee:
2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by BBadger » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:29 pm

I made my initial set of holes too big, and had to redrill them in a spare piece to maintain enough pressure to spray out all the holes. I actually looked up FIGJAM's suggested 10 AWG wire diameter to match the drill bit size and it ended up working well after that. This was with a pretty standard 4.8W water pump.

I'll have to upgrade my fan next time though. Good way to keep extra cool and use up the water.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by dragonpilot » Sun Sep 17, 2017 12:09 pm

One thing I did notice is that my inner pad was mostly dry. My drip ring works fine as far as wetting the outer pad, but the inner pad was only wet where it sat in the water below the big holes. I'm thinking to get the inner pad wet I'd have to run a second drip ring. Yes? No?
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Sun Sep 17, 2017 2:47 pm

Shouldn't matter as long as the outer pad gets plenty.

I put that inner pad there mainly as a retainer for the drip line and extra filter, but if the fan pulls some water into it, even better.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by mohnjeyers » Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:34 am

Figjam: Given how much issue there is with fans not being powerful enough, perhaps there's some merit to figuring out a solution to mounting the tubing without a second layer. It seems each pad contributes a significant amount of resistance. I took one pad out of my design mid-burn and didn't notice improvement in cooling.

I did not find that my cooler worked amazing, but it did work. I think there are gains to be had. I'm concerned that my pump (I used 500L/H pump) put too much water on the pad, and with the significant surface tension inherent in water, I lost surface area for air exchange as the fibers were "melded" together by water.

I plan to do some modification and more testing at different flow rates for next year with an improved design. 8)

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by asr9754 » Wed Sep 20, 2017 2:42 pm

I'd not complicate things with a second drip ring, pump etc. I know we're calling it a "drip ring" but it should not be "DRIPPING", it should really be SPRAYING a fine stream of water out of every hole. My swampie gets both layers of pad pretty much totally damp. May need to adjust the placement of the drip ring, the holes, or tweak the circumference just slightly to ensure an even distribution of water thru the pads. If you have dry spots in the pad, the hot air will seek these out and dilute your cold air noticeably. Good luck!
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Leap » Wed Sep 20, 2017 3:38 pm

Other than using more energy, is there a downside to adding another pump and tube to the inner duracool pad?

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by asr9754 » Wed Sep 20, 2017 4:51 pm

It would use more energy, parts, and you have more points of failure. I like the KISS principle but understood not everyone agrees.
The single drip-ring is quite elegant in that it fits around the inner blue pad, which fits just about perfectly around the CPU fan. I don't know if you could fit another drip ring on the inner pad without interfering with the assembly of the CPU fan and blue cylinder, which could introduce gaps. But try it and prove me wrong!

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by unjonharley » Wed Sep 20, 2017 5:27 pm

asr9754 wrote:It would use more energy, parts, and you have more points of failure. I like the KISS principle but understood not everyone agrees.
The single drip-ring is quite elegant in that it fits around the inner blue pad, which fits just about perfectly around the CPU fan. I don't know if you could fit another drip ring on the inner pad without interfering with the assembly of the CPU fan and blue cylinder, which could introduce gaps. But try it and prove me wrong!
For a couple of years now, I have watched people pole vault over the mouse turds .. I drilled and built a cooler the first year it was posted .. It cools just fine .. If your having problems ?? Go back to the first post.. Forget what you think you know.. Build your Homer cooler as directed in the first draft..
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by BaudEByter » Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:32 pm

Would this fan work well? It looks to move a lot of air.


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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Jan 10, 2018 6:14 am

Those type of fans DO tend to put out a lot of air, BUT they are made to operate in a running vehicle, so they use a lot of power.

If you have enough power it will work.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by skyy » Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:21 pm

Shout out to FIGJAM as always for the how-to articles. My cooler was a disaster this year. It sounded like the fan kicked into a low power mode after Day 2. There were sporadic intervals of full power followed by long spouts of barely any breeze :(.

Any ideas?

I'm going to gut it and redo it for BEquinox this year. Is anyone kind enough to post links to recommended fan and pump so I don't have to scour through the 136 pages? :)

These are the parts i used this go around:





Pretty sure i was using a 27DC or 29DC from interstate battery.

I'm no Electrical engineer, but the wires on these two products didn't turn out to be the same gauge. I believe the fan was 24 and the pump 28. May have played into the cause.

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by Popeye » Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:49 pm

skyy wrote:It sounded like the fan kicked into a low power mode after Day 2. There were sporadic intervals of full power followed by long spouts of barely any breeze :(.
Sounds like a loose connection

Pretty sure i was using a 27DC or 29DC from interstate battery.
You mean Group 27 or Group 29? That is (mostly) the outside dimensions of the battery. Makes very little difference.
I'm no Electrical engineer, but the wires on these two products didn't turn out to be the same gauge. I believe the fan was 24 and the pump 28. May have played into the cause. Wire size is determined by the draw of the device they are connected and the quality of the item
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by skyy » Thu Feb 08, 2018 11:05 am

Sounds like a loose connection
Possibly but i tinkered with them a bit and couldn't get a response from any adjustments.

Pretty sure i was using a 27DC or 29DC from interstate battery.
You mean Group 27 or Group 29? That is (mostly) the outside dimensions of the battery. Makes very little difference.
I'm no Electrical engineer, but the wires on these two products didn't turn out to be the same gauge. I believe the fan was 24 and the pump 28. May have played into the cause. Wire size is determined by the draw of the device they are connected and the quality of the item[/quote][/quote]

Yea sorry that was a quick google search- Actual battery is Exide 31MDC, 830 Cranking 115 Amp hours

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by EGAZ » Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:31 pm

2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by didjeridude » Wed Mar 07, 2018 12:37 am

Has anyone experimented with a rectangle or box shaped design (such as a regular cooler) ?

1. Dust filter at air intake vent
2. Tape either one big chunky pad or a series of multiple thinner pads up tightly to the interior sides of the cooler
3. A simple "in parallel" sprinkler irrigation system to evenly distribute the water across this thicker larger pad or the multiple thinner pads
4. insulating foam taped on the lid which fits snuggly up against the top of the evap padding thus preventing any gaps for air to bypass the evaporative layer
5. Nice big fan sucking from output end

The key idea is to generate a more laminar airflow running across the pad (or pads) in a single direction. The round bucket design has no choice but to create non-laminar turblent airflow stream which reduces effectiveness (according to science on the topic).

It's just a DIY version of a commercial / industrial design.

Thoughts??

edit: I didn't want to read the entire 136 pages of this thread, but I didn't have to. There is an example of this design on this page above. I realise the cylindrical bucket coolers work, but it doesn't look as though that design is commonly used in commercial/industrial applications.
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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:22 am

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Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:49 am

FIGJAM wrote:Well that calls for a RECAP then!!!!!!!!!!
FIGJAM wrote:
The basic idea for the bucket cooler is just a smaller version of Yellowdog's cooler made from a rubbermade garbage can.

An evaporative cooler will reduce the tempature by 20 to 30 degrees.

Keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat. (WARNING! DO NOT SKIN A CAT, IT WONT HELP THIS PROJECT AND WILL IRRITATE YOUR PUSSY!!!)

All the ideas that people came up with on this thread are a perfect example of radical self relience! (Bravo!!!)

Get a 5 gallon bucket and lid.

Have your trained mice naw some holes in the bucket, or use a hole saw, or 50 caliber sniper rifle. (Honey badgers wont work, they don't give a shit!)

Image


Find some cooler pad.

I like duracool pads.

http://www.simsupply.com/Items/426741

If your area does'nt have them, find a national chain DIY hardwear store and see if they will order some for you.

This may save you shipping cost. I use home depot.

Cut the first pad 30x13 inches.

Roll this pad into a tube and silicone or hand stitch the seam.

This will give you a tube 13 inches tall.

Image

Because the bucket tapers out towards the top, you will not need to line the bucket with shade clothe.

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Cut a second piece of pad 24x13 inches and roll into a tight tube.

You wont need to seam this one.

Image

Sleeve this inside the first tube.

The reason for the double pad is to have a wide space to set the drip line on and adds more evap surface.

Image

1/2 inch Drip irrigation line works ok to soak your pads, but poly hose is more flexible and you can buy it by the foot.

I like the T connectors that fit inside the line. I cut the ends of the T shorter so I could keep the holes in the line close enough together so there wont be a dry strip on the pads.

This hose is 3/8 inch.

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The holes in the line need to be uniform for an even flow on the pad.

Drlling holes works, but I found that heating a piece of wire melts a nice, more uniform hole.

I used a piece of 10 gauge copper wire.

Heat the wire with a torch, or the burner on your stove, then press through the line.

Sliding the wire in and out till it cools will make a happy hole! (Don't even think about it Yggy, this is serious!)

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To pump the water through the line, buy a pump.

This pump works very well for how cheap it is....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Quiet-Min ... 3cd9bd0e15

There are U.S. shippers for a couple of dollars more.

I like this pump instead because it's been working for five years.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

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The 3/8 inch line fits this pump perfectly.

Nice even flow of water.

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When the lid is put on, the line will be pinched between the lid and the pad, so it wont move around.

FANS!

The key to a good cooler is a powerful fan.

CFM=cubic feet per minute.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g36/c43 ... y_CFM.html

I used this one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8556/ ... d=TMxuD2fh

It uses more power, but makes the bucket cooler very effective.

Calculate the cubic footage of the space to be cooled, then get a fan that will replace the air inside the space every 3 to 5 minutes.

I use a single fan cause it suits my design perfectly.

Cut a hole in the lid of the bucket to mount the fan.

I put mine on the bottom of the lid to keep the unit compact and to make ducting easier.

Image

Any 120mm fan will fit inside the top of the pad tube.

I spliced the wires from the fan to the wires from the pump. (both are 12volt)

Then ran the wire out through one of the holes in the side of the bucket.

Now with the lid on the bucket, I used a 4 inch septic line connector gooped to the lid over the fan.

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Now you can use 4 inch septic line to duct the air into the space to be cooled. You don't need to glue these piceces together.

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These parts are at the hardwear store.

Outside temp!

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Air temp coming from the cooler!

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Water temp inside the bucket!

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This cooler uses 2 gallon of water every 5 hours.

It uses about 1.45amps per hour.

My 105AH deep cycle battery will run this cooler for 47 hours before needing to be recharged.

So running 4 or 5 hours a day, it will let you nap in the hottest part of the day, all week without recharging the battery.

If you need more cooling than this, build the box cooler.

You will need to vent the air out of the space for circulation.

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Re: Re:

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:50 am

FIGJAM wrote:
FIGJAM wrote:Last year people tried to make the bucket cooler do more than it was ment to do, with moderate success.

The main problems seemed to be a powerful enough fan and how to duct the air into the space.

My box cooler worked great and I never use anything but the low speed on the fan.






NOW INTRODUCING THE UNICOOLER!!!!!!!


No duct work needed!!!

Build a box 17wx30hx9d.

Image

If you cant build a simple box, try to find something waterproof with roughly the same dementions or this.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... ce2010a-20

If you can find something that does'nt have tapered sides it will work better.

Cut a hole for the vent cover. ($11.00)

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Cut a hole for the fan. (Endless breeze fan $60-$80)

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I used 100% clear silicone caulk to stick these to the box.

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The vent louvers are facing down and into the box to keep the water channeled toward the inside.

I got some angle trim and siliconed pieces to the inside of the box to act as a pad retainer.

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This cheap pump works well and ships faster if you find a U.S. dealer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Quiet-Min ... 3cd9bd0e15

This is the pump I use.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

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The pvc just lays on the top edge of the pads.

Then I went to the bin (16489-j "junk" subheading A "awsume") and found some handles.

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8)

Then make an air tight lid.(figure it out)

Finished cooler looks like this.

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I call it the universal cooler cause you just shove the pad side against any opening in a tent, bus, travel trailer, yurt, or playpod and it will cool up to 3000 cubic feet of space. You can even set it on a table outside for use.

Add some foam stickon wheather stripping for a good seal around a window.

Fill it with 7gals. of water for 8hrs. of cooling. So once a day depending on how much you use it.

105ah battery will run this 5hr. a day, all week on low.

You may have to recharge if you use medium or high speed on the fan.

I'm confident that this will cool even a school bus without useing a genny and its a lot quieter than an air conditioner.

As always I'll try to answer any questions you may have.


HERE'S TO A MORE COMFORTABLE BURN!!!

That being said, scroll down to garyt's design on this page.

http://eplaya.burningman.org/viewtopic. ... start=1590

By making it wider, he can take full advantage of the endless breeze fan on high.

The unicoolerI designed tended to restict air flow due to not enough intake area.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10027
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:51 am

FIGJAM wrote:
FIGJAM wrote:This is the box cooler made of wood instead of FRP.

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After the box is glued and screwed, I used regular painters caulk on the interior joints before putting a heavy coat of the Henrys elastomer roof coating on the whole thing to seal it inside and out.

Then spray the inside with epoxy paint, just to be sure it doesn't leak.

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To install the intake panels, I ran a heavy bead of 100% silicone caulk on the registers and screwed them in place.

Make sure these are all the same distance from the top as they will support the pvc for the water, and to get an even flow you'll want them the same height.

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When I installed the pads, I added some wire to secure the pads to the registers.

14 gauge copper or bailing wire will work for this.

It will make sure that ALL the air has to pass through the wet pads.

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The wire goes through the pad at the corners of the registers and bends up on the outside of the cooler.

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The lid is hinged on the side away from the fan for easy filling.

I added some weather stripping (siliconed) for a good seal, and a small chain so the lid would'nt tweek the small hinges.

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Once the endless breeze fan and the pump get here I can finish this cooler.

This is my favorite pump.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

OR this one is cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Quiet-Min ... 3cd9bd0e15

Faster shipping if you use a supplier inside the U.S.

It will hold 12 gals of water and there's room for a case of beer in the bottom.

It will use about 3/4s of a gallon of water per hour on the low fan speed.

It will cool a space up to 3000 cubic feet on high.

Power needed will be...

12 volt DC

1.5amps on low speed (250cfm)

1.92amps on medium speed (500cfm)

2.82amps on high speed! (900 cfm= to 10mph breeze)


Hope this helps you enjoy your BURNNNNNNNNNNN!!! 8)
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

didjeridude
Posts: 19
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 3:12 am
Burning Since: 2017
Camp Name: Tribal Spirit
Location: Qatar

Re: cooling your tent or van

Post by didjeridude » Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:54 am

FIGJAM wrote:

Hope this helps you enjoy your BURNNNNNNNNNNN!!! 8)
The last design here showing air intake on 3 sides, would work better (theoretically according to physical science) if you just draw the same total volume of air through one side (the opposite side of the fan), and make a thicker layer of evaporative media which the air must pass through.
We are made of star stuff

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