cooling your tent or van

[AngelDanger]

I'm so excited! I have been following this thread for a long time, and the only thing keeping me from really making a small bucket swamp cooler has been that I won't have a dependable power source at BM, either generator or battery. Yesterday I actually STUMBLED upon a brand new Harbor Freight that moved in to my city, and they had the solar powered fountain pump that has been mentioned quite a few times in this thread for 20 bucks!! Now that I have one, I just need to reread through and find a good battery or solar powered fan that I can figure out and I should be good! I also happened to find a 7 dollar megaphone there, so yesterday was a very good day

[FIGJAM]

The basic idea for the bucket cooler is just a smaller version of Yellowdog's cooler made from a rubbermade garbage can.

An evaporative cooler will reduce the tempature by 20 to 30 degrees.

Keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat. (WARNING! DO NOT SKIN A CAT, IT WONT HELP THIS PROJECT AND WILL IRRITATE YOUR PUSSY!!!)

All the ideas that people came up with on this thread are a perfect example of radical self relience! (Bravo!!!)

Get a 5 gallon bucket and lid.

Have your trained mice naw some holes in the bucket, or use a hole saw, or 50 caliber sniper rifle. (Honey badgers wont work, they don't give a shit!)




Find some cooler pad.

I like duracool pads.

http://www.simsupply.com/Items/426741

If your area does'nt have them, find a national chain DIY hardwear store and see if they will order some for you.

This may save you shipping cost. I use home depot.

Cut the first pad 33 1/2x13 inches.

Roll this pad into a tube and silicone or hand stitch the seam.

This will give you a tube 13 inches tall.



Because the bucket tapers out towards the top, you will not need to line the bucket with shade clothe.





Cut a second piece if pad 24x13 inches and roll into a tight tube.

You wont need to seam this one.



Sleeve this inside the first tube.

The reason for the double pad is to have a wide space to set the drip line on and adds more evap surface.



1/2 inch Drip irrigation line works ok to soak your pads, but poly hose is more flexible and you can buy it by the foot.

I like the T connectors that fit inside the line. I cut the ends of the T shorter so I could keep the holes in the line close enough together so there wont be a dry strip on the pads.

This hose is 3/8 inch.





The holes in the line need to be uniform for an even flow on the pad.

Drlling holes works, but I found that heating a piece of wire melts a nice, more uniform hole.

I used a piece of 10 gauge copper wire.

Heat the wire with a torch, or the burner on your stove, then press through the line.

Sliding the wire in and out till it cools will make a happy hole! (Don't even think about it Yggy, this is serious!)







To pump the water through the line, buy a pump.

This is the solar pump.

http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-powe ... 66093.html

I like this pump instead because if it's cloudy, it will still let the cooler work.



http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

The 3/8 inch line fits this pump perfectly.

Nice even flow of water.







When the lid is put on, the line will be pinched between the lid and the pad, so it wont move around.

FANS!

The key to good cooler is a powerful fan.

CFM=cubic feet per minute.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g36/c43 ... y_CFM.html

I used this one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12959 ... 6c435s1108

It uses more power, but makes the bucket cooler very effective.

Calculate the cubic footage of the space to be cooled, then get a fan that will replace the air inside the space every 3 to 5 minutes.

I use a single fan cause it suits my design perfectly.

Cut a hole in the lid of the bucket to mount the fan.

I put mine on the bottom of the lid to keep the unit compact and to make ducting easier.



Any 120mm fan will fit inside the top of the pad tube.

I spliced the wires from the fan to the wires from the pump. (both are 12volt)

Then ran the wire out through one of the holes in the side of the bucket.

Now with the lid on the bucket, I used a 4 inch septic line connector gooped to the lid over the fan.







Now you can use 4 inch septic line to duct the air into the space to be cooled. You don't need to glue these piceces together.



These parts are at the hardwear store.

Outside temp!



Air temp coming from the cooler!



Water temp inside the bucket!



This cooler uses 2 gallon of water every 5 hours.

It uses about 1.45amps per hour.

My 105AH deep cycle battery will run this cooler for 47 hours before needing to be recharged.

So running 4 or 5 hours a day, it will let you nap in the hottest part of the day, all week without recharging the battery.

If you need more cooling than this, build the box cooler.

You will need to vent the air out of the space for circulation.

HAPPY NAPPING!!

[FIGJAM]

Last year people tried to make the bucket cooler do more than it was ment to do, with moderate success.

The main problems seemed to be a powerful enough fan and how to duct the air into the space.

My box cooler worked great and I never use anything but the low speed on the fan.






NOW INTRODUCING THE UNICOOLER!!!!!!!


No duct work needed!!!

Build a box 17wx30hx9d.



If you cant build a simple box, try to find something waterproof with roughly the same dementions or this.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... ce2010a-20

If you can find something that does'nt have tapered sides it will work better.

Cut a hole for the vent cover. ($11.00)





Cut a hole for the fan. (Endless breeze fan $60-$80)



I used 100% clear silicone caulk to stick these to the box.



The vent louvers are facing down and into the box to keep the water channeled toward the inside.

I got some angle trim and siliconed pieces to the inside of the box to act as a pad retainer.





This is the pump.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html





I had to cut the 90s shorter to get the straight pieces closer together, but you can stagger the holes in a single piece to get the same effect.

The pvc just lays on the top edge of the pads.

Then I went to the bin (16489-j "junk" subheading A "awsume") and found some handles.





Then make an air tight lid.(figure it out)

Finished cooler looks like this.





I call it the universal cooler cause you just shove the pad side against any opening in a tent, bus, travel trailer, yurt, or playpod and it will cool up to 3000 cubic feet of space. You can even set it on a table outside for use.

Add some foam stickon wheather stripping for a good seal around a window.

Fill it with 7gals. of water for 8hrs. of cooling. So once a day depending on how much you use it.

105ah battery will run this all week on low.

You may have to recharge if you use medium or high speed on the fan.

I'm confident that this will cool even a school bus without useing a genny and its a lot quieter than an air conditioner.

As always I'll try to answer any questios you may have.


HERE'S TO A MORE COMFORTABLE BURN!!!

[Shane3246]

I am making your bucket cooler. I got all the stuff and put it together. I am not to handy if you know what I mean. How did you splice the wires and hook it to the battery. Also, which battery did you use? Thanks, this is gonna be awesome if I can get it to work!
Shane

[FIGJAM]

The wire on the pump is nice and long.

The brown wire is the +(possitive) and the blue is the -(negitive) .



Three feet from the pump, I cut the wire to splice in the fan. This will give you enough slack to put everything in place without fighting it.

On the fan, the red wire is the +(possitive) and the black wire is -(negitive) .



I think I just unpluged that little connector on the fan and threw it away.

Ignore that black pigtail wire you see in the picture, I had that on there for a switch leg for the fan, then decided I did'nt need it.:

I use a 12 volt deka 105 ah AGM battery.

This will run the cooler for 47 hours before you need to recharge.






HOLY SHIT.....I'M STICKY!!!!!!!

[Irreverent Moniker]

Finished my bucket cooler the other day:



Now we're building a solar panel to run it

[Asherbeez]

I think it would be cheaper to build a cooler than to buy an extra ticket to bring an old asian man with me

Forget cooling your whole tent or van. Just get one of these:

Bwahahahah! Excuse me while I clean my keyboard and screen of the coffee just spurted!

[FIGJAM]

Finished my bucket cooler the other day:



Now we're building a solar panel to run it

Test that fans out put of air.

It looks like one I tested that just was'nt strong enough.

[Irreverent Moniker]

Finished my bucket cooler the other day:
Test that fans out put of air.

It looks like one I tested that just was'nt strong enough.

Here are the specs for the fan:

Size: 200x200x30mm
Current: .70A
Input: 8.4W
Speed: 1300 RPM +/-10%
Air flow: 166.2 CFM / 282 m^3/h
Air Pressure: 1.82 mm H2O

We briefly tested it off of a car battery and it seemed to put out a strong air flow. I need to hook up the ducting and see about doing an official test.

[HandJamMasterC]

Just FYI, 1/4" drip line seems to work well with the Harbor Freight solar pump!

[AngelDanger]

Just FYI, 1/4" drip line seems to work well with the Harbor Freight solar pump!

Sweet! What did you use for your fan with the HF solar pump? If you don't mind my asking

[FIGJAM]

[/quote]

Here are the specs for the fan:

Size: 200x200x30mm
Current: .70A
Input: 8.4W
Speed: 1300 RPM +/-10%
Air flow: 166.2 CFM / 282 m^3/h
Air Pressure: 1.82 mm H2O

We briefly tested it off of a car battery and it seemed to put out a strong air flow. I need to hook up the ducting and see about doing an official test.[/quote]

Yep, it's a nxst and I've got one just like it setting in the shop because once ducted, I was'nt satisfied.

Just want you to have a comfotable burn.

[FIGJAM]

Hjm's killer fan find!!!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200422029

[Irreverent Moniker]

Here are the specs for the fan:

Size: 200x200x30mm
Current: .70A
Input: 8.4W
Speed: 1300 RPM +/-10%
Air flow: 166.2 CFM / 282 m^3/h
Air Pressure: 1.82 mm H2O

We briefly tested it off of a car battery and it seemed to put out a strong air flow. I need to hook up the ducting and see about doing an official test.[/quote]

Yep, it's a nxst and I've got one just like it setting in the shop because once ducted, I was'nt satisfied.

Just want you to have a comfotable burn. [/quote]

thanks for the warning though, I'll run a full build test soon to check. If it doesn't work, I'll pick up one off that site you linked earlier. I just liked it because it fit perfectly over the center hole on the bucket lid

I love the margin of error of these things....98 cents for a new lid if i have to alter the hole

[FIGJAM]

The fit was exactly why I bought it plus the 166cfm, but it was to much of a disapointment to actually use.

[HandJamMasterC]

Angeldanger, refer to page 19 of this thread.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200422029

[kgryfon]

This is great stuff! I’ve been following for a while and have now accumulated just about everything I need to build one of these just in time before burn starts. One last part to get – the power for the fan.

I have this fan (Specifications: 120x120x38 mm, 190.48 CFM @ 4100 RPM, 55.5 dBA, 15 watts, 1.25 amps, 12v DC):



Do you think this solar panel will be enough to power it? I’d like to go all solar if possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-1-PCS-18V-2W-So ... 0626700961


Electronics are not my strong suit go don’t go all technical on me or I’ll be lost!

[Irreverent Moniker]

This is great stuff! I’ve been following for a while and have now accumulated just about everything I need to build one of these just in time before burn starts. One last part to get – the power for the fan.

I have this fan (Specifications: 120x120x38 mm, 190.48 CFM @ 4100 RPM, 55.5 dBA, 15 watts, 1.25 amps, 12v DC):



Do you think this solar panel will be enough to power it? I’d like to go all solar if possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-1-PCS-18V-2W-So ... 0626700961


Electronics are not my strong suit go don’t go all technical on me or I’ll be lost!

that panel doesn't have the watts or amperage to run the fan, you should aim for a 15-20w 12v panel which would give you 1.25-1.66 amps.

[cahlm]

just finished the box for the unicooler. hopefully gonna get it finished tonight...

[kgryfon]

kgryfon wrote:
This is great stuff! I’ve been following for a while and have now accumulated just about everything I need to build one of these just in time before burn starts. One last part to get – the power for the fan.

I have this fan (Specifications: 120x120x38 mm, 190.48 CFM @ 4100 RPM, 55.5 dBA, 15 watts, 1.25 amps, 12v DC):



Do you think this solar panel will be enough to power it? I’d like to go all solar if possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-1-PCS-18V-2W-So ... 0626700961


Electronics are not my strong suit go don’t go all technical on me or I’ll be lost!

that panel doesn't have the watts or amperage to run the fan, you should aim for a 15-20w 12v panel which would give you 1.25-1.66 amps

Thanks for your help; what about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-W-12V-Solar-Pane ... 3cba41b15e

[FIGJAM]

The bucket cooler as designed uses just shy of 1.5 amps.

I like solar, but I don't know that much about it.

If it gets cloudy and is still hot, I want my cooler to work.

[FIGJAM]

just finished the box for the unicooler. hopefully gonna get it finished tonight...

I use a single pad, but it's easy to squeeze in a 2nd layer if you want to go for more evap surface.

Oh, and I would have flattened the outer flange of the vent, but I did'nt think of it before I stuck it in the box.

[MikeGyver]

What is the likely hood of the Playa killing the fan used? I assume pretty good. but if the fan would be good after the Burn I would be more likely to buy a more expensive/better fan. Like a 12v aftermarket radiator fan off a car on a 55gal drum

[FIGJAM]

What is the likely hood of the Playa killing the fan used? I assume pretty good. but if the fan would be good after the Burn I would be more likely to buy a more expensive/better fan. Like a 12v aftermarket radiator fan off a car on a 55gal drum

The fans are fine because the wet pad washes the air so well that I had NO dust issue in mysleeping area.

Check the amp use on those rad fans.

They go from 9 to 27 amp and higher, but if you have the power go for it.

Keep in mind that the bigger you make the cooler, the more water it will use.

A 4500 cfm cooler for a small house here uses 5 gals. an hour.

[MikeGyver]

Good point, didn't think about water consumption, was trying to figure out the amps and the size solar panel needed to keep a battery charged to run it and trickle charge the battery when i'm not using it. but water is more of an issue, and i'm only in a 10x14 tent so I don't need that much, just like overkill haha. I'll probably just do a 5gal bucket with a PC fan. Went to see if my local Harbor Freight has the solar water pump and they don't, so Ill have to get that off line.

[wimala1]

[quote="HandJamMasterC"]Just FYI, 1/4" drip line seems to work well with the Harbor Freight solar pump![/quote]


lucky you!!! i must have gotten a dud pump. even with the 1/4" line i couldn't get the full flow. i ended up with the silicon solar pump and FINALLY got full flow through the 3/8" line. i cut my holes in the bucket last night, bought a "terminal block" (sorry, aircraft term for lack of a better word) to hook the pump, bucket fan and tent fan to and a separate on off switch for the bucket fan & pump (so i can turn it off and still have power to the supplemental tent fan).


that harness is still my stopping point. i am just so afraid to cut those wires!!

[wimala1]

[quote="Mrpatatomoto"]Good point, didn't think about water consumption, was trying to figure out the amps and the size solar panel needed to keep a battery charged to run it and trickle charge the battery when i'm not using it. but water is more of an issue, and i'm only in a 10x14 tent so I don't need that much, just like overkill haha. I'll probably just do a 5gal bucket with a PC fan. Went to see if my local Harbor Freight has the solar water pump and they don't, so Ill have to get that off line.[/quote]

i ended up getting my silicon solar pump for $8 (bought two) they are closing them out and are on clearance

[MikeGyver]

Good point, didn't think about water consumption, was trying to figure out the amps and the size solar panel needed to keep a battery charged to run it and trickle charge the battery when i'm not using it. but water is more of an issue, and i'm only in a 10x14 tent so I don't need that much, just like overkill haha. I'll probably just do a 5gal bucket with a PC fan. Went to see if my local Harbor Freight has the solar water pump and they don't, so Ill have to get that off line.

i ended up getting my silicon solar pump for $8 (bought two) they are closing them out and are on clearance

From Harbor freight or where? And don't worry about cutting wires, that's what they make connectors/solder for. I learned all my electrical through guess and check.

[FIGJAM]

This is the pump.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

[kgryfon]

Hi folks -
I have this fan (Specifications: 120x120x38 mm, 190.48 CFM @ 4100 RPM, 55.5 dBA, 15 watts, 1.25 amps, 12v DC):


Would someone who knows electronics and/or solar tell me whether this solar panel will be adequate to power the fan? I need to order in a hurry to get the parts in time. The fan power is the last piece to go!
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-W-12V-Solar-Pane ... 3cba41b15e

Thanks a lot for your help, for this whole concept, and for all the great tips and ideas!