Panic starting to set in. Advice on my bucket cooler?

[CrashDisco]

Hey guys! I really need some advice on the FigJam Bucket cooler I'm trying to build. I am following the original design, but am having trouble... I have spent countless hours sifting through these forums, trying to learn the best way to do this and be self reliant, but I'm also doing an art build, modified monkey hut build, tons of volunteer shit, and there's millions of things on my plate, and just about a week before I ship out from TX to BRC (for my first time) I could use some help! Also, I've never built anything like this so I'm very intimidated!

The tubing. The 3/8in poly i found has an ID of 1/2in... yet it doesnt fit the 1/2in plastic T connector I bought. Why? I couldn't find any other T connectors that are plastic like the ones FigJam uses... Should I go with 1/2in Vinal tube? What do?

Duracool pads. None in store but found some online that will ship here in time...but is there a specific type I'm looking for? Will any of them work?

I have a 10x10 kodiak, 660 cubic ft, I'm assuming a 200 CFM comp fan will work.

I will have power at my camp. Would it be easier to make my cooler powered by just plugging in? Would that make it not dc? Would that make it cheaper by not having to buy a battery? Does that affect the kind of pump and fan to buy?

I am completely clueless on the pump, just know that auto shut off is nice to have.

I am so clueless on tech stuff like this and I am confusing myself. Any advice would be so greatly appreciated!!!

[Jackass]

I would suggest the advice of Mr. Jam on this one...

[Popeye]

The tubing. The 3/8in poly i found has an ID of 1/2in... yet it doesnt fit the 1/2in plastic T connector I bought. Why? I couldn't find any other T connectors that are plastic like the ones FigJam uses... Should I go with 1/2in Vinal tube? What do?

The 3/8th measurement is the ID of the tubing, it will have an OD of 1/2" and a wall thickness of about 1/16". Don't overthink it, since you are purchasing 3/8th tubing buy 3/8 connectors. It might be easiest for you to cut off a 1/2 inch of tubing and take it to Lowes, Home Depot, wherever and match it to the connectors.

I have a 10x10 kodiak, 660 cubic ft, I'm assuming a 200 CFM comp fan will work.

Look at this post. viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&p=1009289&h ... r#p1009289

I will have power at my camp. Would it be easier to make my cooler powered by just plugging in? Would that make it not dc? Would that make it cheaper by not having to buy a battery? Does that affect the kind of pump and fan to buy?

If your camp has power it will almost certainly be AC 120V. Judging by your post your electrical knowledge is not good enough to wire 120V near water. Use 12V DC so you don't kill yourself. If your camp has power 24 hours a day (probably doesn't) then add up the draw of your pump and fan and multiply by 120%. Buy a wall wart or DC power supply of at least that capacity that has 12V DC output and get your power from that. If you don't have power when you need it then use a deep cycle battery and figure a way to keep it charged and forget the wall wart.

[EGAZ]

This pad will work.

This pump will work for you. Note the inlet/outlet barb size of 14mm or 1/2". You will need to bump up your header tube & 'Tee' size to 1/2"ID to match, but you will get good flow. Unplug everything when you leave the tent. No need for auto shutdown. We'll get that for ya next year.

This is another smaller pump but it doesn't push as much water. and go back to smaller tuning and tee.

Yes, a 200CFM fan should work on your 660CuFt space.

Then see my post at the bottom of this page.

[BBadger]

The tubing. The 3/8in poly i found has an ID of 1/2in... yet it doesnt fit the 1/2in plastic T connector I bought. Why? I couldn't find any other T connectors that are plastic like the ones FigJam uses... Should I go with 1/2in Vinal tube? What do?

Any tubing around that size is fine. The 3/8" is the inner diameter (ID) of that particular tubing, with an outer diameter (OD) of 1/2". I found that the pipe connectors for 3/8" were a little harder to find, but they were still available at local hardware stores. You can even buy the tubing and the pipe connectors in the same store to verify the size.

Duracool pads. None in store but found some online that will ship here in time...but is there a specific type I'm looking for? Will any of them work?

Depending on your region, they will be easy or hard to find. In my region, the Northwest, they were nowhere to be found, so I had to get them online. I got a Duracool pad because they aren't very stiff and don't shed. Pads like those aspen pads are supposedly good, but they break apart when cut and are MOOPy.

I have a 10x10 kodiak, 660 cubic ft, I'm assuming a 200 CFM comp fan will work.

I think you want about 1/2 to 1/3 of your total volume, so that should be okay. There are 252 CFM models too (TFC1212DE) which are pretty decent.

I will have power at my camp. Would it be easier to make my cooler powered by just plugging in? Would that make it not dc? Would that make it cheaper by not having to buy a battery? Does that affect the kind of pump and fan to buy?

If your camp is running a genny all the time, by all means, but you will either need 120VAC pumps and fans, or you'll need to invest in a 120VAC to 12V DC power supply that can supply the needed amps. Some 12V 200CFM fans may use up to 5 Amps DC, and your pump probably 0.3-0.5A, so plan accordingly. Batteries are nice if you are running isolated, especially since the pump + fan don't use much power.

Oh yeah, and sometimes the pipes won't fit on your pump, so be prepared to find an adapter. I think some of the pumps only have a 1/4" output. Just drag your pump to the hardware store and find the fittings that work.

I am completely clueless on the pump, just know that auto shut off is nice to have.

Or just have enough water to not care. Speaking of which, if you have two buckets, you can put one on top of the other such that the top one drains into the bottom one. The bottom one is the reservoir, and where the pump would be, pumping water to the top one which does the evapping. This allows you to have more holes in the evap bucket, and a larger reservoir below.

[Oldguy]

BBadger, stacking buckets for a larger water volume is an elegant solution. It is an easy add on also. Thank you for this gift of knowledge.

[FIGJAM]

Make sure your pump can handle the head height of double bucket!!!

[Captain Goddammit]

As for the power, if you don't have a thorough knowledge of electricity and wiring I would strongly suggest building it exactly as Dr. Figmond Jam has shown.
Do not wire 120 volt AC parts into a bucket of water.
I'd recommend running it from a 12 volt battery and using a battery charger plugged into your camp's power to keep it charged, if that's even necessary.
You pretty much can't hurt hit self with 12 volts.
Wiring 120 volt AC stuff - that's what the camp generator power is - really needs to be done by someone who very clearly understands electricity. Especially around water.

[Ratty]

You just reminded me....Last night as I'm walking past the bus stop I see two people with a tablet, a laptop and two phones all brightly lit. They were plugged into a couple of cheap extension cords. The cords ran into a 6 foot electric sign. These are hard-wired advertisements. They don't have receptacles in them. Spliced? Clamped? Very impressive. I noticed later that the sign was all put back together. Upwardly mobile Homeless.

[FIGJAM]

I recently built a 120 volt version of the unicooler for my nephew.

Used a box fan, and a pump from a house cooler.

The power cord from the pump was run outside the box just above the reservoir line.

Basically just kept the wiring outside the box as much as possible.

[BBadger]

Do not wire 120 volt AC parts into a bucket of water.
Wiring 120 volt AC stuff - that's what the camp generator power is - really needs to be done by someone who very clearly understands electricity. Especially around water.

This is the better advice.

[CrashDisco]

It's been a year, but I want to thank you all so much for taking the time to give me advice on this. I ended up having to build so many other things for my camp and art project, that I ran out of time, and just had to buy an AC. Lame, I know. I still plan on building some swamp coolers to give away as gifts when I have the time. I really really appreciate the help you all gave me! Dusty love!


Fuck yer burn!
>Crash

[BBadger]

Nothing wrong with an AC unit if you have power to operate it.

[spacetime]

Your sincere, if late, attempt is still praise-worthy. Definitely take some time afterward to try and finish it. It is less complicated than it seems.

[Popeye]

If you are going to use AC then ground fault the cooler.
https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field- ... =linmin-20

These will trip and cut power to the circuit if the difference in amp draw between the hot and neutral is greater than 5ma. They are the same as the funny looking outlets in your bathroom and kitchen.

[Popeye]

Sorry double post