Bike Builders Unite

Bikes, trikes, personal mobility and getting to/from the event - this is the place to discuss general transportation issues.
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Pootzen
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Pootzen » Thu Jul 21, 2016 4:14 pm

On a completely different note, I have an American Speedster Sidekick that I bought a few years ago from a fellow Seattle burner.

Image

I want to attempt to electrify it, but I'm not handy in the slightest.

Between these two 20" wheel kits, what's the better option?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-700 ... 236b0ceefa


http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passion- ... 236b0ceefa


...or should I just say FUCK IT and buy a couple Mongoose fat tire bikes and call the whole thing off?

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Pootzen » Thu Jul 21, 2016 4:20 pm

I did buy these cool umbrella holders for regular bikes in case I go the Mongoose route. Mobile shade is a necessity...!

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http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shi ... 16260.html

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Popeye » Thu Jul 21, 2016 7:27 pm

Nice looking Speedster.
Without specs on the components (which you won't get from China) you can't make a good comparison. Note the shipping times and think about being able to finish the build after your kit arrives in a month or two. One gives you a battery the other wants extra for one. Batteries probably cannot be mailed. From a quick look I don't think the kits are complete.Good luck.
Pootzen wrote:On a completely different note, I have an American Speedster Sidekick that I bought a few years ago from a fellow Seattle burner.

Image

I want to attempt to electrify it, but I'm not handy in the slightest.

Between these two 20" wheel kits, what's the better option?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-700 ... 236b0ceefa


http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passion- ... 236b0ceefa


...or should I just say FUCK IT and buy a couple Mongoose fat tire bikes and call the whole thing off?
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Ann_Vader » Thu Jul 21, 2016 7:59 pm

Hey playa bicycle experienced people!

I'll be doing a lot of the tending to my camp's bikes. Lucky for me, this is a duty that I am not handling entirely alone and it is passed to me by someone in camp who will still be around.

The bikes are all Huffy Cranbrooks, of a species I've encountered in the past. I worked at my last LBS in '06, and we saw our fair share of department store bikes (yes, I know that bike cost you 99.00 - I'm sorry that it costs 85.00 to fix).

I am told there are 85 of them that are a few years old. I am gunning for getting some parts. 10 chains and a nice park chain tool. 25 tubes. Some scavenged 26" atb tires. 3 sets of 1/2 pedals. 3 floor pumps and a couple of bottles of silicon lube.

I'd really like to overhaul 20 of the worst offenders this year, and do the same in 2017, just cycling through the lot of them, and tagging them with the year of service. Not sure it's gonna happen this year. I'd need a vise and an axle vise to get into the coaster brake - and those hubs are not a Bendix with spare parts available from Harris. I think it would just be grease all the bearings, clean them up and hope,

Thoughts?

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Elliot » Thu Jul 21, 2016 10:04 pm

Pootzen wrote:On a completely different note, I have an American Speedster Sidekick that I bought a few years ago from a fellow Seattle burner.
... ...
Does this thing work? I mean, does the chain stay on, and that sort of thing?

Hub motor(s) might be a good idea for these, since the pedal-chain-drive is such a horrible design.

I have one here that belongs to TamaraKay & Stallion, and I'm determined to bring it to life, but cheese... that sprocket waving around out there like a semaphore turn signal!
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Elliot » Thu Jul 21, 2016 10:26 pm

Ann_Vader wrote:... ...
The bikes are all Huffy Cranbrooks... ...
...get into the coaster brake... ...

Thoughts?
In 2014, all the Cranbrooks and other bikes with the same coaster hub (I forget the name. Obscure Chinese outfit. Three initials, I think) made a horrible grinding noise, and the hub often came apart -- the bearings loosened up severely, and the sprocket often popped loose too.

I put some serious study into that noise once I got home. Turned out, it was the drive cone, which is grooved, kinda like splines, that had "tooled" matching grooves in the hub surface, which is supposed to be smooth. Grooves against grooves = noise. My guess is... some 13 year old working 16 hours a day was handling the heat treatment of the hubs, and produced a couple million soft hubs before she was promoted to making sharp burrs on spoke-nipples.

But other than the Chinese 2014 vintage, coaster hubs are amazingly trouble-free.

Cranbrooks universally come from the factory with under-tensioned spokes, leading to the numerous "taco'ed" wheels.

Cranbrook inner-tubes generally lose air so fast that a fully aired up wheel becomes severely under-inflated inside of a week, leading to the countless pinch-flats.

Please don't make me go on.
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Pootzen » Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:17 am

Elliot wrote:
Pootzen wrote:On a completely different note, I have an American Speedster Sidekick that I bought a few years ago from a fellow Seattle burner.
... ...
Does this thing work? I mean, does the chain stay on, and that sort of thing?

Hub motor(s) might be a good idea for these, since the pedal-chain-drive is such a horrible design.

It works but the chain guard on the front is broken off and zip-tied to the frame. I'm going to get it out of storage this week and consider my options.

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Fri Jul 29, 2016 8:29 pm

Quick tube question:

Thorn resistant, With sealer or no? :?

Any brand lead the pack?
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Elliot » Sat Jul 30, 2016 6:38 am

With gooey liquid inside, or not?
Personal preference.

I have used Slime (the dominant brand) in the tubeless tires of Kinetic Racing Sculptures (large pedal cars), and been impressed with the result. The stuff does seal porosity and apparently other tiny leaks in these applications.

It seems likely that it is helpful in bicycle inner-tubes.
But I have not made any comparisons. This would require starting with a leaky tube and adding Slime, then riding it. And I have never had the patience to do this.

I buy thorn-resistant tubes withOUT Slime. The reason is that the stuff makes a horrid mess once it escapes the inner-tube. It can also clog the valve stem, and also get into gauges and air chucks.
The stuff washes away with water, but....
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Bemerritt » Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:19 pm

So i am building a trike towed "party cart". Any suggestions on how to gear down the trike to make towing easier? It is a standard Schwin trike and feel like this should be pretty straight forward, but I have spent all of my time on the cart and not on the bike. Thanks for any tips!

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Captain Goddammit » Thu Aug 04, 2016 3:21 pm

Put a smaller front sprocket (technically it's the "chainwheel") on it.

You can also do what I did and order a 5-speed trike hub for it, which really rocks and gives you an extra-low first gear but it costs a bit and you're low on time for ordering and installing stuff.
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Ann_Vader » Sun Aug 07, 2016 4:58 am

Elliot wrote: In 2014, all the Cranbrooks and other bikes with the same coaster hub (I forget the name. Obscure Chinese outfit. Three initials, I think) made a horrible grinding noise, and the hub often came apart -- the bearings loosened up severely, and the sprocket often popped loose too.

I put some serious study into that noise once I got home. Turned out, it was the drive cone, which is grooved, kinda like splines, that had "tooled" matching grooves in the hub surface, which is supposed to be smooth. Grooves against grooves = noise. My guess is... some 13 year old working 16 hours a day was handling the heat treatment of the hubs, and produced a couple million soft hubs before she was promoted to making sharp burrs on spoke-nipples.

But other than the Chinese 2014 vintage, coaster hubs are amazingly trouble-free.

Cranbrooks universally come from the factory with under-tensioned spokes, leading to the numerous "taco'ed" wheels.

Cranbrook inner-tubes generally lose air so fast that a fully aired up wheel becomes severely under-inflated inside of a week, leading to the countless pinch-flats.

Please don't make me go on.
Ugh. There are a million people who make rental fleet quality beach cruisers. If I'd been around for the purchase I'd rather have gotten less bikes and gotten better ones. I have a deep seated dislike for department store bikes.

Thank you so much for the response, Elloit, I'm sorry I didn't acknowledge it earlier. Work and getting ready have been pretty significant time sinks recently.

I'm impressed you dug that deeply into the coaster brake hub to figure out where things had gone wrong. The hub is a copy, but clearly not a good copy of someone else's design.

I just cleaned and repacked the coaster brake on the schwinn last week. It's not the original Bendix, it's a Suntour 2 shoe, but it's what was around when I laced up those wheels in 92. Even though it's fairly low end, it was made out of somewhat precision machined materials, and seemed pretty happy with a nice refresher of Phil Wood, as did the rest of the bearings. Held up a lot better over the years and therefore did not become landfill like those huffys are destined to be.

I just put my bike and everything that needs to go out to Nevada on the DC container yesterday. I'm hoping for hard packed playa! Really looking forward to substituting my daily bike commute for

I'll see you in the dust and possibly for a shoulder to cry on after I get those 85 bikes out of storage on 8/24.

I think it came out pretty good. We shall see once the ridiculous lighting is installed


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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:32 am

Did a test ride last night and the E-Cruiser is cruisin', On battery power! WooHoo!

Had to make up a hefty power harness, switch & fuse. Now that it is functional I can finish making it pretty.
2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by unjonharley » Sun Aug 07, 2016 4:09 pm

eldergeekaz wrote:Did a test ride last night and the E-Cruiser is cruisin', On battery power! WooHoo!

Had to make up a hefty power harness, switch & fuse. Now that it is functional I can finish making it pretty.
I am going with a battery isolator switch 50 watt .. This one has a plastic removable key .. Serves as a lock.. Fuse is an inline auto (two prong) 40 watt w/10 gauge wire .. Then ran all 12 gauge the rest of the way .. Also putting a guard around the motor .. That baby gets hot .. Good luck ..
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Wed Aug 10, 2016 10:05 am

OK, My thorough testing caused me to smoke the ECU in my 24Vdc motor. That's my story, I'm stickin' to it. 8) The test did show me what not to do on an Electric bike. :oops: Glad it happened here than on the deck. However, I am in need of a new motor. Given the age of this bike, [Currie, E-Cruiser ala 2000 I am told] motor choices are slim.

These motors have on-board ECUs. My motor is good, ECU is toast.
If anyone has them in stock, a MAC or BMC 24Vdc-400watt motor can be had for about $150
Everyone has the MAC 24Vdc-600watt motor for the everyday low, low price of about $360 (3rd from bottom)

Do any other e-bike people know of any e- bike shops that may have Currie motors? These are the only two shops I could find with them on the shelf.

This motor is a bike motor, not a scooter motor. Scooter & bike motors are a bit different. It has a 'D' cut 8mm shaft extending 14mm from motor face. Three bolt mounting, power and control cables. Here are some basic pics.
IMAG1654a.jpg
IMAG1782a.jpg
IMAG1781a.jpg
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2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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If you are another Solo Burner & very 'Radically Self Reliant' - Maybe we can 'Do What We Do!' :P

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Sat Feb 25, 2017 6:25 pm

My plans to build a fat tire, stretch trike like this one, have been pushed back. Need to do more research, find a small diameter tubing bender I can borrow/use & save few more Dollars & Hundies. :| This one looks to have a Schwinn rear end in it. Am I correct? Finding a dirt cheap donor is time consuming & rare. :o
lowrider trike.jpg
So now I am going to add a side car to my electric Currie Cruiser. I have re-read this thread, looked at many pics online and have a question for Elliot and others with more bicycle background than I. Elliot mentioned way, way back in this thread that turning a side car bike in the direction the side car is on, (in my case the right side), is difficult.

I have my determinations on some of these questions but I want to hear yours.

1. Having a high torq electric motor like I do, is it not such an issue? I realize it will be a larger turn radius but does the motor allow for 'easier' turning?
2. Would moving the side car wheel slightly back (1-3"?) from the center line of the rear axle, help in turning 'into' the side car? Will it hurt the opposite direction?
3. Can I assume the wheel diameter of the side car will not change the difficulty in turning, either direction?
4. Does the weight of cargo/rider affect turning other than just being heavier? My weight is just behind center of the two wheel frame. Rider/cargo is to the rear.
5. Does the location of the cargo/rider forward/back in relation to the 'bike's' rear axle center line affect turning, either direction?
6. Am I over thinking this like I do so often?

I see some are right over the rear axle center line, while others are forward some amount. Most of the side cars I see are for little kids or pets.
Mine will be for hauling bags of ice, cooler, beverages, clothing & small rodents. But will possibly need to haul an adult. Most likely in a slothy, rubbery condition. :wink:

I plan to fab the side car to 'clamp on' the Currie frame as I don't want to weld on the frame for resale reasons. And it will make it easier to haul by taking it apart. Still deciding where I want/need the clamp points for proper triangulation and peddling clearance. And what type of body/shell to build.

Lots of ideas here.
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2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
I am Camp2. - A solo camp - Stop by and say Hey!, 8) Gotta beer?

If you are another Solo Burner & very 'Radically Self Reliant' - Maybe we can 'Do What We Do!' :P

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by unjonharley » Sat Feb 25, 2017 6:54 pm

eldergeekaz wrote:My plans to build a fat tire, stretch trike like this one, have been pushed back. Need to do more research, find a small diameter tubing bender I can borrow/use & save few more Dollars & Hundies. :| This one looks to have a Schwinn rear end in it. Am I correct? Finding a dirt cheap donor is time consuming & rare. :o

lowrider trike.jpg

So now I am going to add a side car to my electric Currie Cruiser. I have re-read this thread, looked at many pics online and have a question for Elliot and others with more bicycle background than I. Elliot mentioned way, way back in this thread that turning a side car bike in the direction the side car is on, (in my case the right side), is difficult.

I have my determinations on some of these questions but I want to hear yours.

1. Having a high torq electric motor like I do, is it not such an issue? I realize it will be a larger turn radius but does the motor allow for 'easier' turning?
2. Would moving the side car wheel slightly back (1-3"?) from the center line of the rear axle, help in turning 'into' the side car? Will it hurt the opposite direction?
3. Can I assume the wheel diameter of the side car will not change the difficulty in turning, either direction?
4. Does the weight of cargo/rider affect turning other than just being heavier? My weight is just behind center of the two wheel frame. Rider/cargo is to the rear.
5. Does the location of the cargo/rider forward/back in relation to the 'bike's' rear axle center line affect turning, either direction?
6. Am I over thinking this like I do so often?

I see some are right over the rear axle center line, while others are forward some amount. Most of the side cars I see are for little kids or pets.
Mine will be for hauling bags of ice, cooler, beverages, clothing & small rodents. But will possibly need to haul an adult. Most likely in a slothy, rubbery condition. :wink:

I plan to fab the side car to 'clamp on' the Currie frame as I don't want to weld on the frame for resale reasons. And it will make it easier to haul by taking it apart. Still deciding where I want/need the clamp points for proper triangulation and peddling clearance. And what type of body/shell to build.

Lots of ideas here.
I have use a large pipe hicky .. May require some heat .. Then I bought a cheap (bench mounted) bender with size dies ..
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Sat Feb 25, 2017 8:53 pm

Yea, I am all to familiar with hickys and conduit benders. (family of electricians) To much work for my body now. And there is the "fill with sand, heat red hot, etc.etc." Still too much work. What I'm really looking for is a roller bender that can do the long open sweeps the trike above has. There are off road shops in town. I just need to talk to them. Make friends, buy beer/pizza! :D

However, My searching has lead me to a 'Leaning side car' design. Not just the bike, which is very easy to do with two heim joints, but the bike and the third wheel in unison. The patent and design is for motorcycles but could be relatively easy to adapt to a bike. That would take care of most of the turning issue. :coffee: Hmmmmmm.....
sidecar-lean.jpg
I see four baby heim joints. Two attached to a shaft sliding on cheap linear bearings or heavy brass bushings inside tubing.
parallelogram_sidecar_01.jpg
Somebody all ready did it! Who's bike is this??
sidecar-bm.jpg
Looks like he used washers and bolts for the four pivot points. A Four Point Parallelogram design.

Back to the net I go!! :arrow:
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Last edited by EGAZ on Sat Feb 25, 2017 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
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If you are another Solo Burner & very 'Radically Self Reliant' - Maybe we can 'Do What We Do!' :P

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Sat Feb 25, 2017 9:23 pm

This design leans the side car too.
US4385770-1-b.jpg
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2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
I am Camp2. - A solo camp - Stop by and say Hey!, 8) Gotta beer?

If you are another Solo Burner & very 'Radically Self Reliant' - Maybe we can 'Do What We Do!' :P

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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Elliot » Sat Feb 25, 2017 10:52 pm

A basic parallelogram! So simple! But only a gimmick at the speeds we travel on Playa.

Utility, or utility plus art -- your choice.

A cycle with sidecar with turn easily in the direction of the sidecar. The powered wheel is pushing the cycle, while the unpowered sidecar wheel is dragging.

Conversely, it will resist turning away from the sidecar.

Riding a motorcycle with sidecar, I used to steer partially with the throttle. And on snow, entirely with the throttle -- LOL

Same for a tricycle with only one driving rear wheel. My green one drives only the right-side wheel (when not locked to the other wheel), and it will turn left so sharply that the left wheel rotates backward.
Attempting that toward the right, it stops as if against a brick wall.

I may have a suitable tubing bender, but I have not yet used it. My brother left it with me. One of these days I will install it.

That type of rear axle assembly, where the tube is severed in the middle, held together with two or more "bypass" tubes, is somewhat standard for such conversions. A while back I made a right stout one, using four bicycle handlebars as "bypass" tubes. Have not attached it to a bike yet, though.

Rolling resistance is what matters. Taller tire, and wider tire, equal lower rolling resistance. More weight equals higher resistance.

Beyond that, you may be overthinking it just a tad. Though... thinking is rarely a bad thing.

I'm in the middle of converting the above-mentioned green single-seat trike into a two-seat cycle with sidecar.

Image

Here it is only mocked up with scrap materials to see how things fit together. Good time to discover that the handlebar hits the passenger smack in the nose on left turns.

Image
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Captain Goddammit » Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:48 am

I have a bike just like that stretch trike you pictured. Image

I have it entirely for style reasons, it never leaves the pavement and I only "cruise" it to the bar and back. I have a five speed hub (with bitchin' custom made stick shift) and use low gears, and that's on pavement.
I love the thing but I'd hate trying to ride it on the playa.
You don't want to use one (as a bike or trike) on the playa if practicality is more important than style. The reclined seating position with the pedals way out forward does not allow you to use your body weight to get torque on the pedals, it's ALL muscle. I don't know if you've ever been to the playa in a soft-surface year... I've been there when even standard mountain bikes were hard to ride - that's how the fat tire bikes suddenly got popular. You'll go nowhere on a reclining stretch especially with the extra drag of a side car.
Don't do it, there's a reason most bikes have the basic geometry they do.

Now, if you're never gonna pedal it and it's always going to be on electric power, by all means, go for it!
The guy who originally designed it gave it what he called "six-pack geometry". It's designed to roll nice and straight while you're holding a six-pack of beer in one hand. I have tested this and can confirm the effectiveness of the design.

These stretch bikes were originally made by Dyno, called the "Roadster", from the mid-'90s to early-'00s (that's what mine is) then a few more years as Kustom Kruisers. The look-alike bikes you see now are Micargis and the quality is crap. They will work well enough for the playa but if you want to keep it and use it at home and other places I'd try to find a real Dyno or KK on Craigslist, although it's hard to find one outside of California or Florida.
I mention this because people try to sell the Micargis for too much money and if you can score a real Dyno or KK for the same or similar $$ that's what you want to do. And the Micargis are priced too high new for what they are.
You can tell a real one from the copies by looking at the back of the top tube, at the end after it passes through the seat tube. A real one will have a "D" or "KK" stamped in it. Image
Image
You can also buy the Micargi copies new as a bare frame only, online.

You can buy a "trike kit" that you bolt on to make it a trike. That's what the stretch trike you pictured has.
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by EGAZ » Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:14 pm

Just to let you both know your Photobucket links bounce one out to other sites or have popups. (I think PB has some malware or are getting dollars from them) I have my FF locked down and it won't display the pics & does not bounce or show popups). Put it in IE and just as the pic is displayed, off to a survey or ad, or other. Just an FYI....


CG, It will be electric powered. Front hub style. After cruising my Currie electric last year, and seeing the life I was getting from my Lipo batts, (3 days) as long as I have 650W motor or greater, it will power through most anything. It will be a Playa trike, but with some style as these do have. 8) I couldn't tell if the rear hub assembly was one of the kits or Schwinn. They both look similar. I'll source tubing, shafts & bearings to see how much cheaper, (if at all) I can build it. Thanks for the history & MFG names. I will give them all a look over.

I won't buy a stretch frame. (short of a steal of a deal, and its gotta be a steal, or aluminum :) ) I fab things, so it will be a nice project. But unlike many of the TV shows, there will be no time table. It will be done right no matter how long it takes. :!:


Elliot, I was up way too late last night reading the net. (I think I read all of it... ha) Lots of variations of both designs, some good, some are WTF?!?!

So in a nutshell, If I am running a high torq electric motor, the turning problem on a side car bike is not such an issue. Larger radius on the SC side. Am I understanding correctly? At least that's what I get out of it.

I found this vid late, late, late, last night. Or was it this morning.....

Notice how the SC skips. Might be because its unloaded, maybe not. Either way it does 'scuff' in both directions. I can't tell if he had a hard time on the right hand turn or he was worrying about hitting the black VW. It looked like he had more lean in her. But looking at the last frame of the vid, the third wheel is forward of the rear axle. I think staying on the rear axle center line is the way to go. I would like to see a better shot of a right hand turn. Here's another showing the lean. Click it for animation as it won't embed for some reason. https://kpcyclery.com/shop/wp-content/u ... ar-gif.gif

Then I found this graphic showing how the third wheel behaves on a 2-point Leaner and how one can move the pivots points (front) to allow the third wheel to 'track' when steering.






It was at this point, sometime early this morning, I realized I am getting very, very far out in the weeds for a playa bike. :roll: Not the first time its happened. Happens on anything I start to think about building. LOL

So went back to basics and remembered why I wanted a trike on the playa in the first place. Even back last year before I went. You don't need to balance it and can ride slower. Especially when leaving the ePlaya M&G and Dr. Pyro's green juice..... I discovered I like the green juice..... As stated early on in this thread, on a trike one can ride slower, stop and observe, interact and talk with others, appreciate the art/music with out getting up. Unless I want to dance. And you can 'walk' with others that are not on a bike. Even if I did build a basic 2-point 'leaner', when I stop I just can't get off. It will still need a stand of some sort when parked. I went with a two wheeler last year mainly because it was $40. Even with batts and a new motor it was more cost efficient & less time consuming given the prep costs & time I had to get ready for my birgin burn. :shock:

So its back to basics and the KISS method , like this one. Mine will be on the other side as I mentioned, so I can get at my battery box. It will be 'clamp on' for easier hauling and when I don't want to not have the sidecar. (three bolts. Off road shops have the exact mounts I need)
sidecar_0785.jpg
This one has three simple 90' bends, and I can do whatever the hell I want on the sidecar frame. A deck, a box, a cooler in a box, a cooler box, with a seat maybe. A plastic trash barrel cut to shape a body. A custom polished aluminum body, Or I could make up a mold to create a fiberglass sea monster.... With LED lights for eyes!!!.... and..... and .... a puffer, Yea! A Freakin' Puffer side car bike!!!! and a Tesla coil!!!!

See how I get? :shock: I need Grey Coyote to slap me upside the head!
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2nd time better than the first. And the first was pretty Freakin' Great!
I am Camp2. - A solo camp - Stop by and say Hey!, 8) Gotta beer?

If you are another Solo Burner & very 'Radically Self Reliant' - Maybe we can 'Do What We Do!' :P

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Captain Goddammit
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Captain Goddammit » Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:49 pm

Yeah that's one reason only a burner can design burner bikes. The parameters are entirely different.
I have a trike (with a rear end like the one you pictured earlier, the "trke kit" style) and if practicality is a major concern, I feel it's superior to a sidecar arrangement. It's narrower overall, which believe it or not does come in handy on the playa.
It's also much more tolerant to overloading.
A trike with a heavy load (those two girls who asked for a ride, some emergency beer kegs, who knows what) will ride a lot better than a bike with a side car.
The side car wins on style points, of course.
GreyCoyote: "At this rate it wont be long before he is Admiral Fukkit."

Jeremy757jones
Posts: 34
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:34 am
Burning Since: 2017

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Jeremy757jones » Tue Mar 07, 2017 7:01 am

I'm going to my first burn this year and I got an old beach cruiser I'm trying to cover in led lights. So I spent the weekend teaching myself to solder and here is where I'm currently at.
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unjonharley
Posts: 10294
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 11:05 am
Burning Since: 2001
Camp Name: Elliot's naked bycycel repair
Location: Salem Or.

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by unjonharley » Tue Mar 07, 2017 9:44 am

Jeremy757jones wrote:I'm going to my first burn this year and I got an old beach cruiser I'm trying to cover in led lights. So I spent the weekend teaching myself to solder and here is where I'm currently at.
Image

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Looking good ..
I'm the contraptioneer your mother warned you about.

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sadie
Posts: 537
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Camp Name: Solomio
Location: Texas

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by sadie » Wed Mar 08, 2017 10:06 am

Hello Friends... I am currently working on my trike...it got caught in the rain upon my return last year before I could get it cleaned up and under cover. Needless to say, rust...
As of last night, it is stripped down to the frame and rusty parts have been unrusted. Most of them will be re greased and re attached but I have a question about the bottom bracket. This is an el-cheapo WalFart trike that I have upgraded tires, tubes, handlebars and pedals on. The bottom bracket is the un-sealed type and was full of nastiness when I removed all the parts. I can get new bearing rings (one is destroyed anyway) and put it all back together as it was and call it a day OR...should I look into a sealed bottom bracket.???
If I go the sealed BB route, do I run the risk of my crank arms not fitting on it? I know BB's come in all different sizes, but it's the width of the body and the little axle thing...not the square part that the cranks go on... Is it worth upgrading the BB while I have it stripped down?
Would appreciate any input from someone with more experience in these matters than me.
This was to be the year that I didn't spend a lot of money on stuff that I didn't really need for the trip....hahaha...too late for that.
If I've told you once, I've told you ten thousand times..jazz hands goddammit....JAZZ HANDS!!!

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unjonharley
Posts: 10294
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 11:05 am
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Camp Name: Elliot's naked bycycel repair
Location: Salem Or.

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by unjonharley » Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:00 am

sadie wrote:Hello Friends... I am currently working on my trike...it got caught in the rain upon my return last year before I could get it cleaned up and under cover. Needless to say, rust...
As of last night, it is stripped down to the frame and rusty parts have been unrusted. Most of them will be re greased and re attached but I have a question about the bottom bracket. This is an el-cheapo WalFart trike that I have upgraded tires, tubes, handlebars and pedals on. The bottom bracket is the un-sealed type and was full of nastiness when I removed all the parts. I can get new bearing rings (one is destroyed anyway) and put it all back together as it was and call it a day OR...should I look into a sealed bottom bracket.???
If I go the sealed BB route, do I run the risk of my crank arms not fitting on it? I know BB's come in all different sizes, but it's the width of the body and the little axle thing...not the square part that the cranks go on... Is it worth upgrading the BB while I have it stripped down?
Would appreciate any input from someone with more experience in these matters than me.
This was to be the year that I didn't spend a lot of money on stuff that I didn't really need for the trip....hahaha...too late for that.
Most of the quick bike repair at Elliot's, was a shot of WD in the lower bracket .. Would save the expense and replace the old bearing.. Then wash the lower bracket out with oil after the Burn ..
I'm the contraptioneer your mother warned you about.

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sadie
Posts: 537
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2013 6:36 pm
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Camp Name: Solomio
Location: Texas

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by sadie » Wed Mar 08, 2017 12:12 pm

Excellent.
Thanks, Unjon.
I was curious which would be easier to repair on playa if needed, and suspected it would be the old school mechanical kind.
If I've told you once, I've told you ten thousand times..jazz hands goddammit....JAZZ HANDS!!!

Jeremy757jones
Posts: 34
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:34 am
Burning Since: 2017

Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by Jeremy757jones » Mon Mar 13, 2017 5:33 am

I painted my bike over the weekend

Image

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unjonharley
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Re: Bike Builders Unite

Post by unjonharley » Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:38 am

Jeremy757jones wrote:I painted my bike over the weekend

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Image

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Nice
I'm the contraptioneer your mother warned you about.

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