Learn How to Weld

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks for making installations of all sizes or making smaller pieces and jewelry.
Toolmaker
Posts: 2511
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:44 pm

Post by Toolmaker » Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:34 am

Heres a lil something I dug up for someone awhile back that had to join stainless and copper.

http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/Welding.txt

Just out of curiosity has anyone tried these muggyweld rods?

http://www.muggyweld.com/

They seem decent in the videos but I'm too poor to buy any an try em out right now. The claims these newer brazing alloys are making are pretty bold in some cases.

Heres some more technical goodness to add to your bookmarks/favorites list.

http://www.eng-tips.com/index.cfm
http://forums.americanmachinist.com/
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/
http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/index.php
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/
http://weldingweb.com/
http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/
http://www.weldreality.com/

Each and every site awesome in their own right.
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allyn
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Location: Portland
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Welding wire rope

Post by allyn » Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:22 pm

I have a project that requires joining several pieces of steel wire rope together.

I will be using 1/8th inch diameter steel wire rope. It will be lining both the neck as well as the face for a heavy clear plastic rain bonnet.

As you may know, the face piece for a rain bonnet joins the neck at about 1 inch shy to the ends of the neck piece.

What I need to do is to do a butt joint for the face piece about 1 inch away from the ends of the neck piece (which I will use loops and some sort of crimping).

These welded joints must be close to perpendicular. [img]http://www.well.com/~allyn/bonnet.jpg[/img]

I have a tig welding setup that can do both ac and dc.

Thanks for the help.

hillbaker19
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 12:08 am

Post by hillbaker19 » Mon Apr 13, 2009 12:41 am

This is a great how to weld project. Get in and have a go at making your own welding table.

http://www.learn-how-to-weld.com/

Toolmaker
Posts: 2511
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:44 pm

Post by Toolmaker » Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:43 am

Maybe some redundancy here.. can't recall if I've posted these in the past

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/
http://www.metalwebnews.com/
http://thegranderection.com/ <--- I promise that this is NOT a porn site
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rodiponer
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:59 pm
Burning Since: 2009
Location: Oregon

Post by rodiponer » Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:41 pm

Toolmaker, and other welding experts:

I am making a kinetic sculpture for 2010, and am having trouble welding 1/8" 6061 aluminum in spray transfer mode. It seems to want to drop back to short circuit transfer. I love the sound and pretty look of spray transfer welds, but after much practice I can't reliably stay in it.

I think I just don't have enough power. I only have a 110 volt plug in my garage, running a dual voltage Millermatic 211 with a spool gun and 100% argon at 20 cfm. The settings printed on the side of the welder say to use 100% Voltage for 1/8" aluminum with the 110 volt plug. So I think I am on the edge of what is possible, and perhaps the voltage in the garage isn't the full 110.

I'd like to just do this welding in short circuit mode-- I've read that that's good enough for 1/8" aluminum, and it seems like it's more in the capabilities of my garage. Right? But I am not sure how to adjust the welder for it. With the current settings, for spray transfer, I am getting a lot of spatter and black crud around the weld when it drops back into short circuit. The black crud readily wipes off with a wire brush or sponge, and the weld bead doesn't seem porous at all, but I don't know if it's bad. The beads look good, but the penetration isn't as good as if I was doing steel, it's sometimes as little as 1/16th of an inch, though it is sometimes nearly full. I am following my steel training of keeping the wire feeding right into the leading edge of the puddle, and don't want to slow down since I've been taught that decreases penetration.

What do you think? I have access to an industrially zoned lot nearby, with 220 power, but that would require something like a 20' shipping container to store my equipment and project. Or a fellow burners house, 45 minutes away, also with 220 power. But I really just want to do this at home.

Thanks.

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gyre
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Post by gyre » Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:12 am

Can you access two circuits to obtain 220/240 or access the breakerbox?

Even wiring 110 direct can make a difference.
I did this recently with a compressor after our generator wouldn't drive it, and it worked better than the three phase shop it normally is in.

skibear
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Burning Since: 2002
Location: Nevada City CA

Post by skibear » Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:07 pm

Electric clothes dryer outlets fused at 30amps 240 Volts AC.
are a possibility.
crash & burn ski lessons given

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mdmf007
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Post by mdmf007 » Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:25 pm

your right your problem is your juice. The miller 211 is an auto switching model - meaning it will work with whatever input juice you give it. One of my Miller Tig machine is so cool that it doesnt even care if you wire it in the right order, it will sort it out internally!

Like Gyre says - making a 220 outlet is easy enough. IF your leary of electricity have it done by someone who isnt or a pro, lots of dead people from working on electric in their garages.

Also, unless you weld a hell of a lot, an extension cord from your dryer outlet to your Miller machine is cheap as well. You can make it yourself as well. Wont be able to dry and weld at the same time....

horrible audio but a flawless conversion video. Shouldnt take you more than 30 minutes.
[youtube][/youtube]

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capjbadger
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Post by capjbadger » Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:01 pm

Too much good info not to bump. :)

Badger
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