Seeking 36v controller for marketeer cart

[chucked]

Have been lurking here for some time. A few weeks ago I finally committed to the idea that I'M BUILDING AN ART CAR! That was exciting. I started working on my design, based on a utility cart, will have a 16ft tall PINEAPPLE made out of rebar, with programmable leds all over it, and a king size bed covered in fur at the bottom.

The plan was to finish the car for boogaloo art car festival 2018 ( early may in Irvine, ca) as a shakedown and test in preparation for BM2018, but then ebay happened and I found a wicked deal on an old cart that fit my needs nicely. Since weve missed registration, we’re thinking of using it as an ADA car for my best friend for BM2017, in a non fully finished, but fully running state.

So in short, I now have this cart
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marketeer-Flatb ... Swal5YCDZI
it will need new tires, batteries, and a controller.
This post (and there will likely be several others) is about the motor controller, I will be running six 6V deep cycle batteries, the cart was custom made by the founder of the marketer company for heavy towing and loading (sometime in the 50s). It has two motors running through a chain drive and is geared low for high torque low speeds.

Can you guys help me choose a controller that will work with this system?
I will be ripping out the old/broken resistor controller and throttle linkage, I currently like the idea of using a simple knob/potentiometer as a throttle (steering wheel mounted), this will give me an easy cruise control and free up the pedal space/cost.

I don’t know what amperage I’m going to need from my controller, but was told that a decent modern one should be able to handle both motors. Im hoping to keep unnecessary costs down on this big ticket purchase, so hopefully something in the 200-400$. I am def wanting something with a reverse switch, though it doesn’t NEED to come as a kit if I can just wire some switch in myself. The cart will have two honda 2000 generators, one dedicated to running a charger the whole time, so hopefully the controller wont freak out from ‘seeing’ the charger continuously prop up the batteries.

Thanks for all your help guys!

[chucked]

please please, not all at once! ;-p

so after reverse engineering the ancient controller, ive answered all my questions and have decided to go with this controller kit

https://www.nocoev.com/product/1205M-56 ... mblage.htm

anybody here want to comment on this?
suggest something better? warn of common pitfalls?

your input is much appreciated

[Token]

I think you have now discovered that most folks build art vehicles with internal combustion engines.

Electric carts and such have shown to be less than ideal for Playa use.

This why you don't see much craft on speed controllers outside the occasional bicycle hub kit.

[chucked]

yes im aware that most people on here are using engines.

but im a battery engineer working on electric supercars...so my love of this world is not average.

im looking forward to having a very silent car to cruise around in serenity.

yesterday i bought a charger thats been confirmed to work with my hybrid design, making progress everyday.

[Token]

but im a battery engineer working on electric supercars...so my love of this world is not average.

Well dag nabbit, you should have said that up-front!

Just get one of these and you are set.

.

[Popeye]

but im a battery engineer working on electric supercars...so my love of this world is not average.

Wow! A battery engineer. Better take advantage while we have an expert.
Off topic but for people flying in what battery would you reccomend for a FigJam cooler? Many use a 105AH AGM Deep Cycle battery, and recharge when battery voltage drops. Some will use a 30-35 AH battery and hook to a PV array and live with cooling only part of the day.
A FigJam cooler uses about 2.2A at 12V for fan and pump.
Can you reccomend a 30-35 AH or larger battery that can be taken as airline baggage and doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
More info here viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&start=3660

[chucked]

do you guys think the DMV will give me flack for having a simple steering wheel mounted potentiometer as my throttle? it wont have a return spring, so i can use it as a nifty cruise control (use gps to establish a 5mph mark, then label it on the knob, then i can just set it and never worry about speed limits)
i anticipate a less than 2 ft difference in emergency braking distances between a zero throttle stop and a '5mph cruise control throttle' stop. (i spent 4 years working for stoptech as a racecar brake design engineer, so i do have some qualification to make these estimations) .
this week, ive replaced/upgraded every single component of my braking system.

obviously the goal would be to turn off throttle in any emergency, but just planning for the worst.

as for your battery questions, feel free to PM me but id rather not derail this thread.

[Token]

DMV don't do that kind of inspection. You drove it in for inspection so it drives, steers and stops.

Ships, trains, jets don't got auto-zero throttle. Don't see it being an issue.

They will look at lighting to make sure you meet BLM requirements, brake lights, any flame effects, visibility from driver position and suchlike for the "safety" portion.

The rest is all about it being mutated enough.

[chucked]

i cant find anything that specifically requires brake lights. is that really a thing? it would somewhat complicate my system, so id rather not intergrate it if i dont have to.

theres going to be a LOT of light back there, so i doubt a dinky red light would be what keeps someone from rear ending a 5mph giant pineapple with unimpressive braking distances...

[Token]

i cant find anything that specifically requires brake lights. is that really a thing?

Email the DMV hotties. They are the ultimate authority.

We had em on ours but it was a truck chassis so kind of came with it.

[chucked]

fyi, confirmed with the DMV email that a brake light is NOT required.

[madsci]

I realize I'm a little late, but in case you're still looking for input, I successfully used the Ion Motion Control MCP266 controller for my Electric Toadstool MV this year. It'll handle 60 amps per channel at up to 60 volts. I'm running two 800 watt 36v motors with the current limits set to something like 34 amps per channel.

[chucked]

as an update, i used this controller assembly. has all the contractors and little details taken care of.
https://www.nocoev.com/product/1205M-56 ... mblage.htm

i limited the controller to 360A in software, and never experienced any scary temps on my motors.

the controller performed flawlessly at the burn and the whole car was great! super reliable and beloved by many.

my only issue was that i used an electric scooter rotary potentiometer mounted to the steering column for my throttle, and it was a VERY tiny zone between no juice and 10mph, so getting a smooth 2mph crawl was quite finicky. i can program the controller to help alleviate this next year, and also it got easier with more seat time.

[Molotov]

No BRC DMV requirement for a "dead man" throttle on a mutant vehicle? I find that.......interesting. I will also consult my DMV inspector source and report back.

[chucked]

molotov: i specifically checked here and then by email with the dmv regarding the throttle, and they confirmed that its fine.

i compared the skidmarks in deep playa between full throttle top speed (roughly 12mph) and no throttle (same speed) and they were both tiny and less than 1ft difference. i can lock up all four tires if i slam on the brakes so it really doesnt matter (i was a brake system design engineer for a motorsports company for 4+ years, so i say this with a relatively high level of expertise).