what are you making?

[Canoe]

... it's 10 years old, and still as shiny as when we put it up.
you gotta use the "real thing" to have it last.

That's tricky with paints. Too many components change with time.
It's "said" that it is impossible to make gold paint, as fine particles won't stay separate. Yet in eastern Europe, alledgedly actual gold paint gets some use. With all examples I've seen of very small batches in glass vials.
I haven't found any details on how such is made. I last searched ~15 years ago. Perhaps I should search again.

[ygmir]

interesting. I don't know I'd use gold paint as such. if it needs gilding, gild it. Agreed on paints, they can't last as long as leaf, IMO.

[Canoe]

... I don't know I'd use gold paint as such. if it needs gilding, gild it. Agreed on paints, they can't last as long as leaf, IMO.

If you're working outside, say fine lettering on something, an actual gold paint would be a lot easier than trying to manage a thin beaten leaf. And paint would be way easier than gilding for many fine brushwork uses. You can use the same binder, and top coat, just how do you get fine gold particles that won't stick/clump within the paint before it is applied. You'd have to really need the paint version to suffer the cost of trial & error to find a dispersing/anti-clumping agent. F***. Like my mind needs something else it wants to work on...

[ygmir]

... I don't know I'd use gold paint as such. if it needs gilding, gild it. Agreed on paints, they can't last as long as leaf, IMO.

If you're working outside, say fine lettering on something, an actual gold paint would be a lot easier than trying to manage a thin beaten leaf. And paint would be way easier than gilding for many fine brushwork uses. You can use the same binder, and top coat, just how do you get fine gold particles that won't stick/clump within the paint before it is applied. You'd have to really need the paint version to suffer the cost of trial & error to find a dispersing/anti-clumping agent. F***. Like my mind needs something else it wants to work on...

using patent leaf, wind is not a huge issue. and fine brushwork, can be done with the size, and then gilded, so it'd look the same as far as I can tell. I just don't see a good reason for actual gold paint. if it's just color, use a synthetic. if it has to be 24K gold, then leaf.

[M F Bonz]

Nice work!
Yeah, I’ve been working with gold leaf for 40 years. You’re kind of discussing which color in the crayon box is better.  They all have their use, but none are the same.
I started with a gold paint that didn’t pop enough for me. Changed it to 18 karat gold leaf with no variegation and realized it made it look flatter and shiny (too much pop). It covered up all of the texture I put into the picture, then I went with the imitation gold leaf because of the variegation design in it.  I found that it works with the overall look I was looking to get. It gave me the gleaming shine I wanted but not too much. I used a sealer that just killed the shine...so that’s one of the reasons I am redoing the leaf.  I don’t use a brush to create this picture; it is a refined Jackson Pallock technique I developed that I use.

DAAAC151-A30D-49BB-A4C1-D8AE4F67BEBE.jpeg

I picked up some old bar brackets at the antique fair for a foot rest on my bar.  
No cleanup just paper plates and rouge on a buffer.  Paper plates? Yep! That’s how you get a quarter to a half inch wide high-speed buffer wheels. Adjustable.

847519FD-0149-4482-A8A0-BE106BC96B57.jpeg

[Canoe]

... I picked up some old bar brackets at the antique fair for a foot rest on my bar.  No cleanup just paper plates and rouge on a buffer...

he he he - my evil twin says "Dare you to try some Autosol paste on rag..."

[M F Bonz]

Oh I’m there.

...yes. I do have a place on the shelf for a future use. I didn’t need to set anything up for the buffer it was all ready there I just walked out ...15 minutes later it was nice and shiny. If you zoom in you can see my pool and the writing on my T-shirt and the creases in my hand ...it’s a real one pass mirror finish. Took me only about 10-15 minutes for the double bracket.

I have a spot right next to the can of CRC QD Electronic cleaner ...I don’t use it on electronics. I use it to rehabilitate my neglected art paint brushes.

Gallon size? How do you get it?

As I write this I can hear five or six super bikes going down the highway sounds like giant bumblebees going about 125 miles an hour.

[Canoe]

... If you zoom in you can see my pool and the writing on my T-shirt and the creases in my hand ...it’s a real one pass mirror finish. ...

Reflections are my standard test for, well, reflectance & specularity. I'm seeing a lot of surface imperfections. And the blacks reflected are not very black, with the surface imperfections reflecting light where the deep black should be. That's not as shiny as where the plane blades and chisels were before we tried the Autosol on them.
Well good enough for its purpose, on steel, Autosol does much better than that.
Put a tiny bit of paste on a clean & dry cotton rag, and rub it on a small area of that for a minute.
Or use it in place of your rouge. Again, on one part for comparisson.

The Autosol really does better than my friend's best stones, and better than 0.5u 3m micro-abrasive, or the 0.5u honing compound, by a long shot. And of course better than my 1u diamond paste. No idea what I'll use the diamond paste for now.

I should do the before and after of that rusty plane. Shame there's no blade with it.

[M F Bonz]

What You are seeing is a dirty phone cammera lens and artifacts from changing the resolution. So I can upload it here.

I have three more I can give it a try.
It would help with the parts I can’t buff.

[Canoe]

What You are seeing is a dirty phone cammera lens and artifacts from changing the resolution. ...

I see those. Didn't pay them any attention. I can also clearly see surface defects.

[M F Bonz]

What You are seeing is a dirty phone cammera lens and artifacts from changing the resolution. ...

I see those. Didn't pay them any attention. I can also clearly see surface defects.

I think i need to concede. But it's just a matter of microns difference. When you compare diamond lapping compounds on stainless steel that already has a mirror surface to start with…..
I started with 0.5 Micron - Final Polish,1.0 Micron - Mirror finish,1.5 Micron - Mirror finish, 2.5 Micron-Mirror finish

The card board buff falls in the >> 3.5 Micron - Fine Polish,5.0 Micron - Fine Polish,7.0 Micron - Pre Polish zone. it’s more of a fine polish/Pre Polish not mirror finish.
It still cuts the work down tremendously.

I did some test panels with the gold leaf and some mica powder in clear epoxy. I need more testing before I go to the large Sun.

Here is a what’s on the shelf puzzle to play with until I do the gold leaf…..
the Bar the foot rails are for…

989BA7F9-6A3E-4FFE-90FC-5DBF28DF00AD.jpeg

[Canoe]

... When you compare diamond lapping compounds on stainless steel that already has a mirror surface to start with…..
I started with 0.5 Micron - Final Polish,1.0 Micron - Mirror finish,1.5 Micron - Mirror finish, 2.5 Micron-Mirror finish. ...

I haven't touched my diamond compounds, nor honing compounds, nor my micro-abrasive papers, nor my friend's stones, since I found the Autosol. I haven't tried it on stainless steel mirror, just kitchen knives and tool steel (plane blades, chisels, newphew's knives).

Note that knives with side surfaces that smooth have a tendency to stick to meat. Some people may want to introduce a fine texture to those surfaces.

[Canoe]

Since thread-drift seems to be prevalent in 2020... and this material/technique is applicable to making.

Painting to rust-proof car parts.

We get a lot of salt and liquid salts put on the roads in winter. Really trashes vehicles. I.E., brake pads and rotors often rust apart well before their useful life is gone.

So I'm painting various parts I'm installing or re-installing on my nephew's vehicle. Since I've never seen J-B Weld rust, I'm painting the raw metal surfaces with J-B Weld thinned with acetone. In the 10 oz. tube package, cheaper than what epoxy primer costs here, and of a more suitable quantity.

Needs a lot of acetone to make it thin enough to paint, and you need to keep re-adding it as it quickly evaporates out of the mixture. A very thinned mixture applied best and gets a cured application equivalent to a medium or thick paint application, sometimes with voids that need a second or touch-up coat (I'm using an acid-safe glue application brush, which is somewhat crude and may be contributing to this). Rather than "painting", application seems to work best if the mixture is "scrubbed" into the metal surface then immediately re-brushed to a smooth even layer. Self-levelling is very dependant on having enough acetone in the mixture and still self-levelling is limited. But you can smooth the applied mixture with acetone on a brush. Final smoothness of the cured result is only a bit smoother than its applied surface. Significantly less self-levelling that most epoxies I've used over the years; unknown if that is due to their steel powder additive or anti-sag powder in J-B Weld. Application on parts still warm from baking to remove moisture after de-greasing seems to result in a nice thin (well, relatively thin) & even layer.

Seems to maximize the set and cure times, towards their expected maximums of six hours to set and 24 hours to cure, and some applications somewhat beyond that, taking 30 hours to a full hard cure. I'm guessing that the setting and curing is delayed until the acetone fully evaporates from the applied mixture.

I'm being careful to keep it out of threads, but expect I'll need to run a tap through a few. Where I haven't got a matching tap, I'll donate a bolt to the cause by cutting a slot across its threads as a tap. And I'm keep it off of the mating surfaces between parts (I use anti-seize there) where the fit is part of the registration of parts (like caliper mounting brackets.

[Canoe]

... I'm painting the raw metal surfaces with J-B Weld thinned with acetone. ... Application on parts still warm from baking to remove moisture after de-greasing ...

Warning: as per J-B Weld instructions, do NOT de-grease using alcohol as it leaves a residue that inhibits bonding. Acetone works to prep the surface as does detergent dish-washing soap, and of course any of the true commercial de-greasers.

[M F Bonz]

Thanks canoe great info.
I do have a Secret hidden project car that information could be useful for. Back tires are drag radials 17 inches wide on a 16 in tall rim.

Thanks for the information. I’ve had other things on my mind lately.

As usual I failed In my communication.
In short I was using the lapping compounds as a measurement tool. Not for polishing anything.
My inept way of agreeing with you I guess.
I was working on something else and hit a piece on the buffer that was already mirrored. ...it only had a few scratches on it, I expecting it to polish up.... I clearly saw the texture left on the mirrored surface. I was wrong. So I used the compound to find out where the buffer was in that measurement.

I’ve used similar products before. Brasso on brass ...semi chrome on aluminum. I get what you are talking about.

I do have some projects I’ve been working on lately. Keeping my mind off other things.



One is gold leaf, epoxies, mica powers, and Alcohol ink on bar stool seats... I have 14 Black Sabkha Oasis bar stools I’m redoing. They are part of a bigger project.

Smiles~

Be safe everyone.

[M F Bonz]

C616E8D7-DA7F-4CC8-B35A-D9DDCB664657.jpeg

Smiles~

[ygmir]

............One is gold leaf, epoxies, mica powers, and Alcohol ink on bar stool seats... I have 14 Black Sabkha Oasis bar stools I’m redoing. They are part of a bigger project.

Smiles~........

indeed. my first time, first hours on playa, met you and Risky there, looking for the "eplaya pub crawl"....sigh.....

very nice color patterning on that stool seat.
are you putting an epoxy or some other clear coat top layer on it?

[M F Bonz]

Smiles ~

Yes... same stools.

Scraped the bar and back bar.

Here is a Random video showing some of the epoxy techniques.

https://youtu.be/SCl84n41HL4


I’m building something..... secretly.
The stools will be used but are mostly tests for the epoxy. I’m using the epoxy finish on something else once I get the look I’m after.

Have a great day. Be safe everyone.

[M F Bonz]

A test panel.

4D8256F9-5FFB-425A-A4BF-F90EA3610380.jpeg

5BE6F647-C681-48C4-9F6A-FBF218697B6F.jpeg

[ygmir]

I see gilding metal, yes?
very cool look.

[M F Bonz]

Thanks

The top pic is photoshopped to what I want it to look like. Bottom is a raw photo that was taken in full sun. That’s what makes the mica power glow in the clear epoxy. Yes. The leaf looks like it has texture but this is all flat and smooth. The final finish can be sanded and polished if needed. This was a small test on a 6”x 6” small piece of scrap. Other than restoring the variegated leaf on my Celtic sun.
I have a second 4’x5’ blank Canvas I am looking to put something on.

The stools are for seating around my 1/24 scale slot car track. 75 foot laps. professional timing system. Just some toys to play with.

https://youtu.be/po50m9-Z6vk

[Canoe]

... I’m building something..... secretly. ...

... The stools are for seating around my 1/24 scale slot car track. ... https://youtu.be/po50m9-Z6vk

Did he just dox himself as Batman?

[ygmir]

got to carve a pretty neat design for a monument this week. It's nice when a customer gives you a concept and lets you run with it. Tons of symbolism in it, Viking stuff mostly.
Sad stone to make, though.

131901695_696900320965588_2636832700615607479_n.jpg

[M F Bonz]

Nice.
I Love the stone work. Le chat and I had a Conversation about pieces of work found by people, years long after we are gone. What people might think about relics we’ve created.
Yours will out last all. Nice job.

Canoe You crack me up. I’m more of a
Desert Rat Man.

8E100128-35F9-485D-B5BC-97EDF6B2071A.jpeg

The fat 17 inch slicks are for a car I’m building.
My son and I were working on a rat rod.
But then my dad got sick and passed away. Work stopped. But recently we picked up a fuel cell for it. Not working on it... still picking up parts.

151AC627-B431-4F7E-B61B-66F726DBD0B7.jpeg

And yes I am building a large slot car track. With a timing system like you would see on big commercial tracks.

Sorry not Batman. But thanks for the vote of confidence.

Stay safe everyone. I see some sun light at the edge of the dust storm.

[ygmir]

it is sort of interesting, that the polished granite surface, and material itself, has no real human scale expiration date. The polish left by glaciers 10 millennia ago is still shiney..But yeah, thinking of the things we all make, and what may be found by a civilization not even thought of now. Zera and Cornelius? perhaps? Sleestacks? ha, who knows!

[lucky420]

Trouble

[ygmir]

Trouble

83341559_10219621927715425_3027204623665463296_n.jpg

[lucky420]

Hahahahaha