The Car Thread

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Captain Goddammit
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:10 pm

Wow the '69 is beautiful! I had a '67... back when they were cheap.
Your '58 would still be way cool with a treatment similar to Ranger Magnum's, even if you didn't put as much effort into it. Stock steelies, a set of whitewalls, a slight lowering... maybe even some matte paint and Von Dutch style striping if you get ambitious.
You can make some dirt cheap whitewalls by sanding the superfluous black cover layer off the sidewalls of a set of skinny whites or white lettered tires.
You can pick up a good running '50's or early '60s vintage 265 or 283 for ultra cheap, no one wants them these days. Who cares if it's fast. It's a cruiser.
I'd totally drive that thing!
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:04 pm

Is that your Del Rey? Looks pretty straight. Who cares if it's a 6. Like Capt said it's a cruiser. Let me know if you have any questions on it. I know a lot of buys with parts. About the only thing I'd recommend is to swap out the front spindles, backing plates, hub, drums and shoes with those from 1961-1964. 58 had really narrow front shoes and unit bearings/drums. Plus the wheel cylinders were smaller than later years. It will be a noticeable improvement.

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Re: The Car Thread

Post by robbidobbs » Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:09 pm

Dumb question: my pickup bed trailer hasn't moved since Sept.
The tires are a year old.
Should I roll the trailer a bit? If so, how frequently should one?

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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ygmir » Sun Apr 12, 2015 6:54 pm

robbidobbs wrote:Dumb question: my pickup bed trailer hasn't moved since Sept.
The tires are a year old.
Should I roll the trailer a bit? If so, how frequently should one?
it never hurts to roll a trailer once or more per year.
Probably a good idea.
When was the last time the bearings were greased and adjusted/checked?
does it have brakes? if so, surge or electric?
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by robbidobbs » Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:15 pm

Last year they were greased etc. no brakes.
I'm gonna take it to the dump this week. That should get them sitting in a different place.
Thanks Ygmir!

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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:15 pm

Bias plus tires develop what's known as flatspotting after sitting for even a few says. It is temporary, and goes away in just a few miles of driving. Radials do this too, but not as much. More importantly than rolling the trailer is keeping the sun off of the tires as much as possible.

And as was said, check the wheel bearings. The brakes too, because if they sit too long without moving, parts can rust or corrode and this can have adverse effects on the brakes.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:40 pm

Ranger beat me to it (he happens to know tires better than probably anyone here) the sun is the worst for the tires. I think more trailer tires fail from blowouts due to being dry and rotted than from wearing the tread out. I've had such a trailer tire failure on the BM trip myself.
I'd say most trailer road failures are neglected wheel bearings.
I put LED tail lights on my trailer - not to be fancy, but because now, finally, after it sits around and I hook it up to use it, they WORK! I also have no issues with my truck's headlight switch getting too hot or the turn signals acting funny due to the extra load of the trailer bulbs.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:04 pm

As for the turn signal flasher, you can replace that with a Heavy Duty unit. In this case, "Heavy Duty" actually means something -- it means additional loads. A HD flasher blinks at the same speed regardless of load.

Why don't all cars have such a flasher? So you will know when a turn signal bulb has burned out -- the indicator on the dash will come on but not blink.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Sat Apr 18, 2015 6:04 am

Those work to a degree and I have 'em. But when you have the truck's lights, the camper's lights, and the trailer's lights all going through wiring not intended for that much extra load, LEDs save the day.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Sat Apr 18, 2015 6:44 am

All that puny 16 gauge wire, certainly. The lower draw probably even helps prevent melt-downs at iffy connections.
Another advantage with LED lamps -- they burn out gradually, one LED at the time, so we get plenty warning to replace it.
Oh yeah, I have them on Millicent. Expensive, but worth it.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:49 pm

My new truck and trailer are getting led lights. Sometimes though, they don't work as turn indicators, because the relay uses the load to warn you of a bad bulb...just as Elliot said. So if you install led turn indicators, they may blink fast, because the relay doesn't sense the load of incandescents. They do make load equalizers that you can add so that the relay won't blink fast.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:58 am

Totally random question here, but does anyone have or know the whereabouts of a 1965 Impala convertible frame? My newly acquired project has a frame that is irreparably damaged, and while it is usable, because of this cars value, I need it to be perfect.

FAQS:

A hardtop frame is not compatible. From 65 on up, ragtop frames had wider perimeter frame rails. 58-64 frames are easily interchangeable simply by adding 4 more body mounts, and minor re enforcing

65 & 66 are the only frames that interchange within the generation 3 Impalas. 67-70 have different suspension and steering components. Later model frames will work, but you have to convert a lot of stuff, plus it takes away the cars value.

Yes I am on every other car related forum. But there may be someone here that can help.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:44 pm

Oh one more thing.....I'm looking for an early 396 block. Any condition, with or without heads and manifolds.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:16 pm

I know you're a correct-parts perfectionist and I respect that, all the examples of these cars would be gone without the guys like you... but I do like the sneaky sleepers where you have a 454 or 502 in there but its all dressed up like a stock 396. As long as it looks the part - which it would - I'm happy. And hey, these cars have a legend to live up to that we know they really can't in 100% stock form. Yeah I know... its a cruiser, not a racer...

Vetoing all that, you can always run a 427 whether its right or wrong. There's just something magical about a 427.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:55 pm

My next project will be a 67 Impala convertible with a 427. After I finish 65.

And yes, I am a weird correct guy. Not sure why, but it's getting worse. I'm now building cars according to the cowl tag. So whatever RPO (regular production option) is listed on the cowl tag, that's how the car gets built. Im actually in the process of decoding the 65 cowl tag, and getting it ready for the frame off restoration this summer.

The cool thing about vintage GM iron is that there were a shit load of dealer options: dual antennas, dual mirrors, bumper guards, grill guards, door handle guards, fuel door guards, tissue dispensers, autronic eye, the list goes on. So those are affordable ways to dress a car up.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:02 pm

I'm gonna get you a set of Americans and an Edelbrock air cleaner lid for Christmas, and you have to put them on or you'll appear rude and ungrateful.
Come to the dark side... we have camshafts...
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Ratty » Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:39 pm

Boys. I know why you all love these old cars. Look at what's on the road now. Then look at those sexy old hunks of metal. Smooth curves like a woman's hips. Today it's all about mileage, laws and price. You used to fall in love with your car before you even owned it. You snuck over to see it, caressed it and lusted after it. Now you just go online and get the facts. No romance. And no room in the back seat for any either.


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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:56 pm

Ratty, you don't know the half of it. I am an old car guy to the hilt. And im not that old. All my cars are older than me..

Capt, I love me some Americans. I have a set of Supremes on my 64 just cuz they are so cool. But I have the stockers with Firestone super oval 8.00x14 when I show it.

My 409 is bored 60 over, balanced, knife edged crank, 11:1 with a decent cam. It's about 420 inches now. The only thing keeping it from putting out 500 HP is the Rochester 4GC and the cast manifolds. If I wasn't so obsessed with originality, I would have done the dual quad set up. But it didn't come that way, and, well.....
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:28 pm

Ooo.... I have your Americans! Stand by for PM.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:25 am

I have a set of four 15x8 polished American Torq-Thrust II but I'd rather have the old style with the grey centers and brushed lip... that doesn't happen to be what you have does it?
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:24 am

This is getting alarmingly close to "commerce", so we are going to PM and e-mail. But as a matter of general interest to followers of this car thread, these are the style of wheels in question. A few decades ago they came in 15" and smaller, and these days they come in larger -- mine are 17s and 18s:

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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:25 am

Those would look great on my '55 but I'm gonna Ranger-Magnum out a little and stay with old school 15" wheels and a little more sidewall on the tires.
He's so hard-core old school I think 15"s are an inch or two too much diameter in his world!!
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:52 pm

Well, 15" was standard on Chevy until 1957, when GM switched to 14. So im good with 15"...

But 13's are gangster on an Impala!

Elliot, I would have taken those wheels off your hands until I realized the were staggered.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:49 am

Got a couple of grand nephews that bought old chevy 4x4s.

The ACs have been disabled. (hoses cut, compressors removed)

My thought is to loop the condenser into the tranny lines as a fluid cooler.

Anyone foresee any problems with this?
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:43 am

I think you'd want to eliminate the expansion valve but other than that it's been done before and should work fine.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Thu Apr 30, 2015 10:04 am

Captain, just to pick on you for no reason... you are on the right track, but perhaps thinking of the "dryer", which may be up front near the condenser. The expansion valve sits back by the firewall, at the inlet to the evaporator. (All this useless knowledge from a previous career! :lol: ) Neither component would let hardly any liquid thru.

I have also heard of people doing this, and don't know why it wouldn't work. But be sure there are flares on the tubes you attach the new hoses to, so the hoses don't blow off. Clamps alone may not hold them.

Run the tranny fluid thru the extra cooler first, and then thru the unit in the radiator. Tranny fluid should be warm (but not hot) to function properly, and the heat exchanger in the radiator ensures quick warm-up and prevents over-cooling.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:36 pm

The "cooler" for the transmission fluid in the radiator is more of a heat exchanger. Overcooling isn't an issue in socal, and I actually disconnected it from my radiator, and ran it through a proper cooler. My big block runs hot. And I mean freekin hot. As in high temps hitting 230. Trans fluid can't really take temps that high for long periods, so having a dedicated cooler helps. If we were in areas where freezing temps were common, I would have left it alone, but this RV pretty much only goes to hot places.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by ranger magnum » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:40 pm

And as far as cooling the Trans fluid through the old AC unit, it can and has been done, but the issue is the size of the cooling tubes inside. In order for oil to be optimally cooled, the tubes need to be bigger than that found in the AC unit.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Captain Goddammit » Fri May 01, 2015 5:00 am

Yeah Elliot you're right... I was just looking at mine. My truck (big block Chevy) has a non-op A/C system and I'm trying to decide on fixing it or removing it to get more airflow to the radiator.
I don't need it for the trans (manual) and my one-ton has a factory oil cooler already.

The last truck I pulled the A/C off of got the compressor repurposed as an air compressor.
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Re: The Car Thread

Post by Elliot » Fri May 01, 2015 9:30 am

One of the first things they taught us at Chrysler's school in Detroit was that a bug screen in front of the radiator is a big no-no. Any restriction to the air flow is detrimental.

And a radiator -- whether for water or oil -- should be wide tall and thin, for maximum exposure to the ambient air, and minimal flow-thru resistance.
I "re-learned" this when I built my first hot rod, and needed a radiator that would fit inside the tiny pointy nose I built of fiberglass. I had a local shop fabricate a radiator to my specs -- five rows thick. Big mistake. (The shop ought to have educated me, but I guess I sounded like I knew what I was doing. :roll: )

A little trick that can help cooling "under desperate circumstances" is to remove the grille -- on cars where this is possible. One less "bug screen".

Never remove a fan shroud. The factory spent money to put it there for very good reason.

And of course.... If you are beginning to overheat, turn the A/C off. Then turn the cabin-heater on full heat and full blow. Unpleasant, but the heater takes its heat from the engine.

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