ElevenEleven wrote:TO REMOVE REBAR --- First - Take a long par of vice grip pliers and use them to rotate/twist the rebar around in full circles loosening the playa. The twisting is what really gets the rebar out. After twisting you can use your sledge hammer to pound the rebar from side to side. The twisting helps WAY more then using the brute force of the sledge hammer. After a little work, each rebar should twist out in under a few minuets. If you are still struggling to remove your rebar, make sure you are doing full rotations with your twists while pulling up at the same time.
I have about thirty 18" to 30" rebars in my setup and it is never difficult to pull them out. Newbies: please don't think 12" tent stakes from REI will help out there. The first 5" to 7" of the playa may be very soft, providing no support at all.
Yes, as said above, clamp on the ViseGrips and start by just moving them an inch or two in each direction and you'll see how "stuck" the rebar is. If it is being resistant, as said above, take the time to do a 360 degree twist.
If you have candy caned the rebar, at this point use a regular 3' crowbar. Put a foot square piece of 3/4" plywood on the ground next to the "eye" of the candy cane, and put the "straight" end of the crowbar thru the eye, and give it jerky upward pressure. If it doesn't come out, add a small piece of 2x4 to increase the leverage. Rarely will you need more than one piece of 2x4, but sometime you might.
Don't forget to pick up any splinters that may be created in this process.
BTW, the pre-cut pieces at HomeDepot are too short or too long. Forget the 1' pieces, and the 2' pieces once candy caned CAN be good for installations that are not subject to huge stress, but are no good at all for high stress applications. The 3' pieces are just too damn long. For the average tool owner, the only reasonable way to cut the larger pieces is a metal cutting fiber disk on a circular saw or better yet, a chop saw.
Be aware also that using the two pipe system of making candy canes will cause some of the rebar to break. Not all rebar is the same. I've had good batches and bad. It does help to not make your entire bend at one time as the heat generated might have something to do with breakage. Best suggestion yet is to get a propane torch, use the "yellow" gas cannistars, and heat it up before bending, but I never do and only break about 1 out of 10
This is 1/2" rebar inserted in 3/4" galvanized plumbing pipe. About 3.5" of rebar is left exposed
Leave 3.5" or 4" of rebar exposed in the rebar placed on the ground. (notice the bent pipe. This is a good thing as it softens the cutting edge of the pipe, which might put enough pressure on the rebar to start a fracture.) If one is strong in the arms and has body weight, it is possible to put your weight on the pipe on the ground and then bend the other pipe up. If you are not weighty or strong, it is a two person job.
DO NOT let the rebar slide into pipe once you put other pipe over it and start to bend.
Three stages of bending to avoid overheating and possible breaking of brittle rebar.
The candy cane on the left sucks, as the energy of the sledge is too far "off center" and it will like trying to pound a spring into the playa. The candy cane on the right will cause no problems. Take two 3lb or 5lb hand sledges as you will loan one out and you will forget who you loaned it to.