staking down a Springbar
staking down a Springbar
So, after 9 years in shitty, meshed tents, I'm finally bringing a Springbar (an 8x10). Those cute little tents I'm used to don't need rebar, and I just ordered the 15" steel angle stakes designed for sandy terrain that Springbar offers. I've watched people, for 9 years, drag massive chuncks of rebar, pount them in and struggle even harder to get them out for no reason, over and over again. Anyone have experience using them? Good or bad?
- VultureChow
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Re: staking down a Springbar
I have the 10x10 Kodiak, (basically the same tent), and you should be more than fine with those suckers.
I used the 12 inch military surplus stakes and the thing never budged once. In fact I left 3 of the side loops undone and didn't notice until I took it down.
The key thing is to have those corners secure as those are structural necessities for the tent. The other loops just provide anchoring for the wind.
Congrats, you'll love your tent.
I used the 12 inch military surplus stakes and the thing never budged once. In fact I left 3 of the side loops undone and didn't notice until I took it down.
The key thing is to have those corners secure as those are structural necessities for the tent. The other loops just provide anchoring for the wind.
Congrats, you'll love your tent.
Sic Semper Spectatores
Re: staking down a Springbar
I use a 30-inch wrecking bar to pry my stakes out of the playa. My stakes are different than yours, gbh, so your mileage may vary. I do note that Springbar's 15" stakes have a little outcropping that might make it possible to use a wrecking bar with them.
If you go the wrecking bar route, wear gloves (of course) boots and long pants, and don't use 100% of strength. They're a bit sharp.
ETA: Bob's site also says (re: rebar, but this may applicable to you)
If you go the wrecking bar route, wear gloves (of course) boots and long pants, and don't use 100% of strength. They're a bit sharp.

ETA: Bob's site also says (re: rebar, but this may applicable to you)
Grip with a large pair of vise-grip pliers, or a plumbing wrench, and twist it back and forth or around as you pull upward. Wear gloves. Usually, it's not necessary to pour water in to loosen the stake, but some people do. Just makes the ground and the stake gooey. If you need to pull dozens of them, stake pullers are available from hardware stores. A farm jack and a chain works for almost anything. Or a chain and long steel bar, with a wood block for a fulcrum.
https://sites.google.com/site/potatotrap/rebarfaq
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- MacGlenver
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Re: staking down a Springbar
Thanks for asking the question. I just sprung for the 10x14 Kodiak and have been curious as well. I'm very hesitant to use rebar since the Kodiak's stake loops are fabric rather than the metal loops on the Springbar.
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- MikeGyver
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Re: staking down a Springbar
MacGlenver wrote:Thanks for asking the question. I just sprung for the 10x14 Kodiak and have been curious as well. I'm very hesitant to use rebar since the Kodiak's stake loops are fabric rather than the metal loops on the Springbar.
I don't have a spring bar/Kodiak, but I've always used rebar through fabric loops and never had any problem with them ripping.
The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.
Re: staking down a Springbar
Was thinking about getting a 10x10 kodiak for this year. Seems to be a good tent. Do you have to do anything to support the tension poles, or keep them in place?
As for the fabric loops on rebar, would it help to wrap the rebar in ductape as a buffer between the rebar and fabric loop?
As for the fabric loops on rebar, would it help to wrap the rebar in ductape as a buffer between the rebar and fabric loop?
- MikeGyver
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Re: staking down a Springbar
s9ghost wrote:Was thinking about getting a 10x10 kodiak for this year. Seems to be a good tent. Do you have to do anything to support the tension poles, or keep them in place?
As for the fabric loops on rebar, would it help to wrap the rebar in ductape as a buffer between the rebar and fabric loop?
IMO the only reason rebar would hurt the fabric is if it isn't tight and the fabric is rubbing the rebar all week. If you Beat the rebar all the way into the ground there wont be any rubbing so no friction to cause damage. Do whatever makes you feel safe since its your money, but I don't think its necessary.
The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.
Re: staking down a Springbar
Mrpatatomoto wrote:IMO the only reason rebar would hurt the fabric is if it isn't tight and the fabric is rubbing the rebar all week. If you Beat the rebar all the way into the ground there wont be any rubbing so no friction to cause damage. Do whatever makes you feel safe since its your money, but I don't think its necessary.
Great point about it needing to be tight. I'm sure that's a potential area which could lead to user-error related failures. Thanks.
- VultureChow
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Re: staking down a Springbar
s9ghost wrote:Was thinking about getting a 10x10 kodiak for this year. Seems to be a good tent. Do you have to do anything to support the tension poles, or keep them in place?
Nope. The only four structural anchors are the corners.
s9ghost wrote:As for the fabric loops on rebar, would it help to wrap the rebar in ductape as a buffer between the rebar and fabric loop?
Seriously, these things are solid as a rock. In my opinion, rebar would be total overkill. Get some 12 inch stakes and you'll be fine. Pound them flush to the ground, or more likely 1 inch under the crumbled crust of the ground. Loop some paracord under the heads so you can get them up easier. Remember, most instructions for 24 inch rebar involve pounding them in half way, that's only 12 inches of below ground anchor.
The sole exception to the rebar is if you intend to erect the small porch-style shade on the front. Pull the bottom plastic piece off the poles, and place over 24 inch rebar pounded in halfway. If you want it to stay perfect, you'll still have to use guy lines, but this will keep them steady. Wrap the top half of the rebar in some duct tape to keep it from clanging or moving too much.
Sic Semper Spectatores
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