PVC based shade structure over 10X14 Kodiak tent advice

[skyy]

Not sure when I'll be setting it up next but for reference. I used 1/2" pvc. I superglued/E600'd the connector pieces on selected portions of the frame to secure one side, then drilled through the other connected side such that you can put a bolt through the top and a nut on bottom to keep them in place.

Example photo below, this is one of the long sided pieces (ie the 14 ft side of the kodiak), for portability sake I cut the length in two, glued the connector to one side then drilled through the other. I did this on all connections that were not superglued so the end result would use 10 bolts and 10 nuts total. (2 on each corner 3-way connection, and 2 on the long sided lengths)

[hooker]

So it's been forever since this thread started, but I thought I'd update folks on the attic foil. I used attic foil to make a 24x25 tarp for my monkey hut. It was amazing the first year, but each year more of the reflective coating wore off. Then on the third or forth year the tape gave out and I had to toss it out. I loved it at first, but it was a royal pain to make. I wouldn't do it again. I think I'll go for aluminet. If someone actually made an attic foil tarp, I'd buy that, but I doubt that will be an option. So the search for the ideal monkey hut cover continues. I hope I'll see lots of them this summer in the dust. Go get your vaccine!

[some seeing eye]

The ShiftP*d kids spent a lot of energy sourcing their fabric from Asia. Still it has problems delaminating if stored wet. There are companies making an aluminized fabric that is laminated to a poly tarp, as "emergency blanket" which camping stores have. Silver on one side and brown or green poly tarps are common. UV is very tough on plastics as is the constant flapping on laminates. Another angle is to look at reflective or metallic fabrics at a specialty supplier like Rosebr*nd in LA.

[BBadger]

You might be able to spray some UV protectant on the surface to try and reduce the impact of the UV radiation on the material, though it might also cause dust to stick to the surface.

Another thing would be to use a silver tarp on top and then a reflective under-layer to prevent heat from radiating downwards, while also protecting the attic foil from direct sun. The silver tarp alone seemed to work well as long as proper airflow was maintained at the ends.

[silvergirl70]

The aluminet was also covered in dust over the week, and likely lost some of it's reflective awesomeness. Tapping it to remove dust is not advised. Haha.

That being said, the 2018 burn was broiling hot and the shade structure was a godsend, also held up with the mid-week windstorm. Aside from living in a camper (certainly an option, but not my cup of tea)...it appears that shade cloth is A-OK in my book.

[Mandillo]

Not sure when I'll be setting it up next but for reference. I used 1/2" pvc. I superglued/E600'd the connector pieces on selected portions of the frame to secure one side, then drilled through the other connected side such that you can put a bolt through the top and a nut on bottom to keep them in place.

Example photo below, this is one of the long sided pieces (ie the 14 ft side of the kodiak), for portability sake I cut the length in two, glued the connector to one side then drilled through the other. I did this on all connections that were not superglued so the end result would use 10 bolts and 10 nuts total. (2 on each corner 3-way connection, and 2 on the long sided lengths)

I made a decent attempt at your design on my 10x10. Main take aways: need bigger Aluminet - i think i used a 10x14 piece. Came out much better than i expected

I didn't cut the long pieces in half - but will be bolting and super gluing @ the corners as that seemed to be the weak spot. Testing out this upcoming weekend with a larger aluminet. My biggest concern would be securing the corners now. Planning on attaching to either my car or the ground but it seems that it could rip if done how it is in the pictures

This was really easy to build - without drilling for bolts i'd expect it to be done within 30 minutes or less. I will have to report back on the sturdyness... I'll make an attempt at silvergrirls monkeyhut in a few weeks

[silvergirl70]

Good luck with your build! The aluminet/shade cloth I used was large to fit most of the frame. It's a lot of prep (cutting and taping) . With subsequent uses I just needed to refresh the tape stops.
The box frame above is much simpler than my design, but easier to transport etc. I think the only thing I would note is that the corners might tear the aluminet in the wind. I had a shower tent set up under my structure and the constant poking from the apex of the tent poked a hole in the aluminet over time. Not a huge deal, but thought I would mention it. Perhaps softening the corners with a pool noodle fragment taped on would prevent issue.

[osprey]

I've camped in a 10x10 Kodiak beneath a shade cloth monkey hut for years. It's still an oven in the middle of the day. The shade cloth buys you maybe an extra hour or two in the morning. It also helps to strategically place the Kodiak next to a truck or trailer, for more hard shade. If you really need to sleep during the day, you should probably think about active cooling systems.

[silvergirl70]

I just need that hour in the morning

[Mandillo]

I've camped in a 10x10 Kodiak beneath a shade cloth monkey hut for years. It's still an oven in the middle of the day. The shade cloth buys you maybe an extra hour or two in the morning. It also helps to strategically place the Kodiak next to a truck or trailer, for more hard shade. If you really need to sleep during the day, you should probably think about active cooling systems.

Are you referring to a swamp cooler or something else ? Any experience to share with a kodiak + cooler + aluminet ?

Trying to figure out if the juice is worth the squeeze ….

[skyy]

Nice! You've got a good bit of clearance between the aluminet and the tent. Glad this is being put to use!

Not sure when I'll be setting it up next but for reference. I used 1/2" pvc. I superglued/E600'd the connector pieces on selected portions of the frame to secure one side, then drilled through the other connected side such that you can put a bolt through the top and a nut on bottom to keep them in place.

Example photo below, this is one of the long sided pieces (ie the 14 ft side of the kodiak), for portability sake I cut the length in two, glued the connector to one side then drilled through the other. I did this on all connections that were not superglued so the end result would use 10 bolts and 10 nuts total. (2 on each corner 3-way connection, and 2 on the long sided lengths)

I made a decent attempt at your design on my 10x10. Main take aways: need bigger Aluminet - i think i used a 10x14 piece. Came out much better than i expected

I didn't cut the long pieces in half - but will be bolting and super gluing @ the corners as that seemed to be the weak spot. Testing out this upcoming weekend with a larger aluminet. My biggest concern would be securing the corners now. Planning on attaching to either my car or the ground but it seems that it could rip if done how it is in the pictures

This was really easy to build - without drilling for bolts i'd expect it to be done within 30 minutes or less. I will have to report back on the sturdyness... I'll make an attempt at silvergrirls monkeyhut in a few weeks

[silvergirl70]

That looks awesome! I was just thinking that a PVC snap clamp placed near the corners might help prevent sliding/slicing into the aluminet at the corners...or a pool noodle chunk covered in duct tape (to prevent moopy fraying) as a corner softener. But nice to use the tent as the support structure