The Car Thread

[Elliot]

Does that Carter have an anti-dieseling solenoid? If that solenoid has weakened (by an internal short in the windings, presumably), it could explain the erratic idle. I replaced a lot of those solenoids in my day.

[tatonka]

Does that Carter have an anti-dieseling solenoid? If that solenoid has weakened (by an internal short in the windings, presumably), it could explain the erratic idle. I replaced a lot of those solenoids in my day.

not sure , not to familer with that carb will check , thanks

[tatonka]

it says Carter on it , but it looks just like this one

[ygmir]

IIRC, you can get a 2bb/4bbl adapter plate, to put the 2bbl on that 4bbl manifold.
you'll have the same "low end" the 4bbl only comes into play for top end H.p.
make sure the air cleaner still has clearance under the closed hood.......ask me how I know that..........

[Elliot]

Carter AFB, best carburetor ever made. Currently sold in the aftermarket by Edelbrock as the Performer. Easy to work on. We discussed it here before.
No telling if yours has an anti-dieseling solenoid. Such a solenoid comes on with the ignition and functions as the idle stop. Then when the ignition is shut off, it retracts and lets the throttle blades down to the "old-fashioned" idle screw. This was essentially a "workaround" for smog-control tuning, but is not a bad idea generally. If you have one, it needs to work.
Man, 30 years ago I did this for a living!

[ygmir]

agreed, AFB is a super carb. easy to re-jett for fuel tuning, too. I think I still have a strip kit here somewhere.

You can do a lot with the carb still of the truck. Just take the top off.
you can spray cleaner in and on all surfaces and orifices, removing all possible jets and restrictions, let sit, and blow out with compressed air, both directions.
If it has a diaphragm accelerator pump, you'll want to take it off before blowing, so as not to pop said diaphragm.

wait, what were we talking about?

[Elliot]

No worries. Piston acceleration pump on the AFB. Comes off with the lid.

[MikeGyver]

Finally got the jeep back in one piece, Just in time to park it. Turned out to be just the clutch, but did some preventative maintenance while it was apart. So hopefully when I get back it will be 100%

[tatonka]

thks guys will look for a adapter for a 2 bbl , and ill keep the 4bbl and try to fix it.

[Elliot]

Poor fuel mileage could be as simple as a sunken float. They do not last forever, regardless of material.

[tatonka]

Poor fuel mileage could be as simple as a sunken float. They do not last forever, regardless of material.

going to get a rebuilt kit this weekend for it , will it come with the anti-dieseling solenoid ?

[Elliot]

No. But verify first that it has one. If it does, you can test it by pushing it in and then putting your finger on the vacuum nipple -- it should hold itself in.
So see if you have one. It would be by the regular idle screw, and it pulls the throttle a little bit open when activated. It is perfectly possible you don't have one.

[tatonka]

No. But verify first that it has one. If it does, you can test it by pushing it in and then putting your finger on the vacuum nipple -- it should hold itself in.
So see if you have one. It would be by the regular idle screw, and it pulls the throttle a little bit open when activated. It is perfectly possible you don't have one.

thks will check tommorow

[tatonka]

IIRC, you can get a 2bb/4bbl adapter plate, to put the 2bbl on that 4bbl manifold.
you'll have the same "low end" the 4bbl only comes into play for top end H.p.
make sure the air cleaner still has clearance under the closed hood.......ask me how I know that..........

how do you know that ?

Got the adaptor only 20.00 a universal Napa product . They had no 2bbls tho , but Rock Auto does .

[EspressoDude]

check to see if a prior owner has cobbled up the linkage for the secondary barrels, so that they are forced to open when the pedal is mashed. Have seen a lot that have a screw wedged into them that messes all throttle control. Also look to see if the primary throttle plate is tight in the shaft and the shaft is not wobbling in the carburetor body. this could prevent proper closing.

[tatonka]

check to see if a prior owner has cobbled up the linkage for the secondary barrels, so that they are forced to open when the pedal is mashed. Have seen a lot that have a screw wedged into them that messes all throttle control. Also look to see if the primary throttle plate is tight in the shaft and the shaft is not wobbling in the carburetor body. this could prevent proper closing.

will check it out , going with the 2bbl for now tho , just to see if I get better mpg. Got the brakes done , put a new brake line in where I thought the leak was. I have the 2bbl ordered from Rock Auto and Ive put a gal of vinegar in the aux tank a coulpe of days ago and been turning the tank daily. Will switch to a acid etch for final clean.

[tatonka]

yep , the choke plate was a kicked over a hair , not straight up , as soon as ya move it straight up the idle goes to normal. Lubed everything and it seems to be staying in the right place for now
Good hunch thks

[Elliot]

Then we may be dealing with the choke pull-off -- an other vacuum pot! Although, the pull-off works when the choke blade is completely closed. But almost certainly the fast-idle mechanism is involved.
The new aftermarket AFBs have electric choke -- I don't know about the old factory installed units. But you have now made a definite step of diagnostic progress.

[tatonka]

New Problem , went to start it this morning and the starter wouldnt shut off . Had to pull the Batt cable , even had the key in the off position. It happened once before and the search station on the way into BRC , but as soon as I pulled the Batt cable and reconnected it , it had stopped . No it wont reset and is on all the time

[EspressoDude]

sounds like welded contacts in the starter relay / solenoid

[tatonka]

have a extra one will put it on later today when the rain stops . thanks

[tatonka]

put it on , but I think it was faulty also , will buy new one

[Elliot]

I'm thinking there could be a short that effectively bypasses the relay. A wire rubbing against a terminal. Thus the relay would not release until the power is disconnected. (But I admit I'm awful rusty at this.)

[ygmir]

hhm well except the solenoid is positive switched, power to the small pole throws the contact within.
Is the starter running on it's own? or, is it running only when the engine is? if it's only with the engine (engaged but maybe not switched), it could be the starter gear sticking with the flywheel.
if running on it's own (spinning with engine not running), then IIRC, Ford is a remote, one cable solenoid, and so either the points welded (sometimes smacking the solenoid with a stick or something can get them to part), or, you have power to the activation circuit, which would be an ignition switch issue, or, the remote chance a hot wire is in contact with the energizer wire, heating it up.

[EspressoDude]

to add more stuff to Yggies and my previous pile. A remote solenoid may have welded contacts. replacing the starter will not help

typical remote solenoid: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Micha ... lenoid.jpg

[Canoe]

I'm coming in late on that Carter 4bbl, but have you replaced all of the vacuum hoses recently? If you've got any of that emissions crap and a vacuum leak, then all bets are off for Carters. If you replace the hoses and haven't done so before, make sure you don't rip them all out at once, but replace them one at a time to make sure you don't inadvertently change anything. If the vac hoses haven't been replaced for a while, they should be anyway. They can look great but be leaking too.

[Jackass]

Depending which year Ford truck you have, some have the remote solenoid inside RH fender with another on the starter itself. Also there could be a small relay that closes which sends power to the solenoid that could be stuck closed. If this is an older (pre 90s) you probably have just the one solenoid on the fender-well. If that's not the problem, check out the electrical ignition and power distribution switch located on top of the column, just behind the instrument panel.

Most likely a just stuck solenoid.

[tatonka]

thanks all , it was the solenoid . The ing posts on the new solenoid are smaller dia , so my snap on clips are loose ( will tighten with crimper) but all is working well.

[tatonka]

I'm coming in late on that Carter 4bbl, but have you replaced all of the vacuum hoses recently? If you've got any of that emissions crap and a vacuum leak, then all bets are off for Carters. If you replace the hoses and haven't done so before, make sure you don't rip them all out at once, but replace them one at a time to make sure you don't inadvertently change anything. If the vac hoses haven't been replaced for a while, they should be anyway. They can look great but be leaking too.

the high idle was from my choke circut , got that fixed. thanks

[EspressoDude]

high folks do tend to get idle