cooling your tent or van

[Oldguy]

Cutting holes in plastic? Easy, 12 gauge buckshot, or pencil torch, or hand-drill, or hot nail, or ...you get the idea. Make your own burn, you dumbsh== ass==== .

[FIGJAM]

[Cjs722]

Hey guys, couple questions, total noob at this, but I did try searching for this info and didn't find any relevant info.

Here is my set up:

Tent - 10'x20': http://www.atafa.com/products/Trek-Tent ... 49521.html

Battery: 115AH Deep Cycle: http://www.sears.com/diehard-marine-dee ... 827582000P

Fan - 1.45amp, 190.48 CFM:

Pump - 1.05amp:

Solar Charger - 50w: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1295696648

Total amp draw: 2.5amp

My questions are:
Can I charge my battery with a solar charger while discharging it to cool my tent?
With a 115Ah I can run that for 46hrs without having to recharge yes? (115/2.5)
Wiring everything to the battery is just splicing the + and - wires of the pump and fan together and then connecting them to the battery terminals, right?

[FIGJAM]

That pump uses more power than most and I'm not sure it's submersible.

The main problem is the bucket cooler is to small for that space!

It can cool up to 600 cu. ft.

If your tent is 6 ft. tall, you have 1800 cu. ft.

Build a box cooler!

[Cjs722]

oh snap. Ill need to find a different pump. Any recommendations?

As for the space, I know the tent is large but I only plan of cooling one of the 3 compartments at a time, do you still think it will be a problem? should I upgrade to the 240cfm?

PS. Damn that was fast. You really ARE that good ;D

[kowtow]

Here is the pump that I used for the swamp cooler:

[Cjs722]

Great thanks! I also double checked my pumped, it does say "submersible intallation"

[FIGJAM]

That fan is a power hog for what it puts out.

Calculate the space to be cooled in cubic feet.

If it's under 600, you'll be fine.

If its bigger, then the coolers with the "Endless Breeze" fan would cool that whole space.

See page 82 for instructions.

[Cjs722]

Awesome, I will do those calculations.

Also, I may just do what my buddy did and make an air conditioned burrito bag

[sharpstick]

I do the same thing, but my "bed tent" encloses the entire air mattress with overlapping flap. supported from the tent frame with a bamboo crossbar. i estimate less than 50 cu ft of space to cool.

[Cjs722]

Yeah I had the privilege of using my buddies for a bit, it was REALLY nice in the middle of the day. I would like to have the whole space cooled though, the "living area" is 5ft*10ft*7.5ft which only comes out to 375cft so all systems are green!

[LowePro]

Got my bucket out today to spruce up and test run. The fan seems to be running a bit sluggish. Have people found it good to lube or maintain the CPU fan between burns... And if so, how do you do it?? Thanks

[FIGJAM]

Haven't done anything to the fan since I installed it 4 years ago!

[Papa Bear]

Yet another question (and my apologies if it's been addressed somewhere in the previous 2500+ responses and I just missed it)...

I'm going to be spending a full 2 weeks on the playa this year, and am planning to use the Mark 3 unicooler to cool my yurt (that's a Mongolian-style yurt, not a hexayurt).

Does it matter where I place the cooler with respect to the structure/prevailing winds? Putting it on the windward side might create somewhat better airflow, but would I be smarter overall to put it on the leeward side to reduce how much dust gets driven straight into it?

[FIGJAM]

The wind won't be an issue.

I would put it on the north side as being in the shade of the yurt will help it work just a leeeeeeeeettle bit better.

Or opposite the door if that will be your exhaust vent.

[sharpstick]

If possible, surround the intake area with a windbreak of some sort, around and above. I think that if you can slow down the wind, much the dust will drop out before it reaches the intake. (think of breathing behind a bandana. (or that araby cloth thing whatsitcalled).
Keep it out of the sun(no brainer)

[Papa Bear]

Makes sense, thanks!

The yurt is still under construction, but once finished it will vent out the center ring (though I am working out a way to cover it at night/during dust storms). It'll also have a parachute hung inside as a false ceiling, with a gap between it and the actual roof of the yurt.

[sharpstick]

the inner ceiling should help by reducing the vollume that you are cooling, as well as separating the upper layer of hot air from the lower area. and the more you partition off your cooled area with a wall (say around your bed), the cooler it should be. (see my earlier comments on my bed tent of about 50 cu ft.)

[FIGJAM]

The dust will not get past the pad on the cooler!

It will baffle and filter to the point that the dust won't get through.

[sharpstick]

but it will accumulate on the pad, requiring rinsing.

[FIGJAM]

In my experience, the pump keeps the dust washed out of the pad and it settles to a thin layer in the bottom of the cooler.

[Papa Bear]

Sharpstick, those are precisely the reasons I'm using the inner ceiling. Back in my early days with the HeeBees, we had otherwise identical shade structures that varied only in the presence/absence of that inner layer, and the difference in comfort underneath was significant. The yurt wall is likely to have both an inner and outer layer as well, though that part is still to be finalized, and the wall gap would be much smaller in any case.

I'll drape something over the bed if needed (it'll keep the sleeping area warmer at night, too), but I'm hoping the Endless Breeze fan in the Mark 3 will be able to cool the yurt without additional partitioning. High speed on the fan is 900cfm, the entire yurt itself is just under 1500cf, and the volume under the inner ceiling will be around 1200cf.

I'll see about posting a yurt construction thread as I get further along.

[FIGJAM]

That cooler for that space should do great on medium speed.

Make sure the air intake on the cooler is large enough.

20"x20" should do it.

[Papa Bear]

I'm using 3 12"x12" air returns; should be plenty.

[FIGJAM]

You're using what I call the "Box" cooler.

It's big enough to pre-chill your beer before you put it on ice!!!

Someone that was on playa for 20 days made one and said they didn't need to buy ice.

[Papa Bear]

Ah, guess I got the names mixed up.

And yes, I have considered using it for chilling beer. More accurately, I've considered making it wider so that it can hold a 3 gallon homebrew keg and CO2 charger, and installing a tap on the front. That feature may have to wait until my own rev 2.0, though.

Speaking of beer, what's your preferred style? I'm thinking that between this and the lag screw anchors, I definitely owe you a few.

[FIGJAM]

Nope, it's my gift!

If you just can't help yourself, a 12 pack of rollin rock!

[FIGJAM]

PAGE 90 RECAP!!!

The basic idea for the bucket cooler is just a smaller version of Yellowdog's cooler made from a rubbermade garbage can.

An evaporative cooler will reduce the tempature by 20 to 30 degrees.

Keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin a cat. (WARNING! DO NOT SKIN A CAT, IT WONT HELP THIS PROJECT AND WILL IRRITATE YOUR PUSSY!!!)

All the ideas that people came up with on this thread are a perfect example of radical self relience! (Bravo!!!)

Get a 5 gallon bucket and lid.

Have your trained mice naw some holes in the bucket, or use a hole saw, or 50 caliber sniper rifle. (Honey badgers wont work, they don't give a shit!)




Find some cooler pad.

I like duracool pads.

http://www.simsupply.com/Items/426741

If your area does'nt have them, find a national chain DIY hardwear store and see if they will order some for you.

This may save you shipping cost. I use home depot.

Cut the first pad 30x13 inches.

Roll this pad into a tube and silicone or hand stitch the seam.

This will give you a tube 13 inches tall.



Because the bucket tapers out towards the top, you will not need to line the bucket with shade clothe.





Cut a second piece of pad 24x13 inches and roll into a tight tube.

You wont need to seam this one.



Sleeve this inside the first tube.

The reason for the double pad is to have a wide space to set the drip line on and adds more evap surface.



1/2 inch Drip irrigation line works ok to soak your pads, but poly hose is more flexible and you can buy it by the foot.

I like the T connectors that fit inside the line. I cut the ends of the T shorter so I could keep the holes in the line close enough together so there wont be a dry strip on the pads.

This hose is 3/8 inch.





The holes in the line need to be uniform for an even flow on the pad.

Drlling holes works, but I found that heating a piece of wire melts a nice, more uniform hole.

I used a piece of 10 gauge copper wire.

Heat the wire with a torch, or the burner on your stove, then press through the line.

Sliding the wire in and out till it cools will make a happy hole! (Don't even think about it Yggy, this is serious!)







To pump the water through the line, buy a pump.

This is the solar pump.

http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-powe ... 66093.html

I like this pump instead because if it's cloudy, it will still let the cooler work.



https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

The 3/8 inch line fits this pump perfectly.

Nice even flow of water.







When the lid is put on, the line will be pinched between the lid and the pad, so it wont move around.

FANS!

The key to a good cooler is a powerful fan.

CFM=cubic feet per minute.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g36/c43 ... y_CFM.html

I used this one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8556/ ... d=TMxuD2fh

It uses more power, but makes the bucket cooler very effective.

Calculate the cubic footage of the space to be cooled, then get a fan that will replace the air inside the space every 3 to 5 minutes.

I use a single fan cause it suits my design perfectly.

Cut a hole in the lid of the bucket to mount the fan.

I put mine on the bottom of the lid to keep the unit compact and to make ducting easier.



Any 120mm fan will fit inside the top of the pad tube.

I spliced the wires from the fan to the wires from the pump. (both are 12volt)

Then ran the wire out through one of the holes in the side of the bucket.

Now with the lid on the bucket, I used a 4 inch septic line connector gooped to the lid over the fan.







Now you can use 4 inch septic line to duct the air into the space to be cooled. You don't need to glue these piceces together.



These parts are at the hardwear store.

Outside temp!



Air temp coming from the cooler!



Water temp inside the bucket!



This cooler uses 2 gallon of water every 5 hours.

It uses about 1.45amps per hour.

My 105AH deep cycle battery will run this cooler for 47 hours before needing to be recharged.

So running 4 or 5 hours a day, it will let you nap in the hottest part of the day, all week without recharging the battery.

If you need more cooling than this, build the box cooler.

You will need to vent the air out of the space for circulation.

HAPPY NAPPING!!!

[FIGJAM]

Last year people tried to make the bucket cooler do more than it was ment to do, with moderate success.

The main problems seemed to be a powerful enough fan and how to duct the air into the space.

My box cooler worked great and I never use anything but the low speed on the fan.






NOW INTRODUCING THE UNICOOLER!!!!!!!


No duct work needed!!!

Build a box 17wx30hx9d.



If you cant build a simple box, try to find something waterproof with roughly the same dementions or this.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/ ... ce2010a-20

If you can find something that does'nt have tapered sides it will work better.

Cut a hole for the vent cover. ($11.00)





Cut a hole for the fan. (Endless breeze fan $60-$80)



I used 100% clear silicone caulk to stick these to the box.



The vent louvers are facing down and into the box to keep the water channeled toward the inside.

I got some angle trim and siliconed pieces to the inside of the box to act as a pad retainer.





This is the pump.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains



The pvc just lays on the top edge of the pads.

Then I went to the bin (16489-j "junk" subheading A "awsume") and found some handles.





Then make an air tight lid.(figure it out)

Finished cooler looks like this.





I call it the universal cooler cause you just shove the pad side against any opening in a tent, bus, travel trailer, yurt, or playpod and it will cool up to 3000 cubic feet of space. You can even set it on a table outside for use.

Add some foam stickon wheather stripping for a good seal around a window.

Fill it with 7gals. of water for 8hrs. of cooling. So once a day depending on how much you use it.

105ah battery will run this all week on low.

You may have to recharge if you use medium or high speed on the fan.

I'm confident that this will cool even a school bus without useing a genny and its a lot quieter than an air conditioner.

As always I'll try to answer any questions you may have.


HERE'S TO A MORE COMFORTABLE BURN!!!

That being said, scroll down to garyt's design on this page.

http://eplaya.burningman.org/viewtopic. ... start=1590

By making it wider, he can take full advantage of the endless breeze fan on high.

The unicoolerI designed tended to restict air flow due to not enough intake area.

[FIGJAM]

This is the box cooler made of wood instead of FRP.





After the box is glued and screwed, I used regular painters caulk on the interior joints before putting a heavy coat of the Henrys elastomer roof coating on the whole thing to seal it inside and out.



To install the intake panels, I ran a heavy bead of 100% silicone caulk on the registers and screwed them in place.

Make sure these are all the same distance from the top as they will support the pvc for the water, and to get an even flow you'll want them the same height.





When I installed the pads, I added some wire to secure the pads to the registers.

14 gauge copper or bailing wire will work for this.

It will make sure that ALL the air has to pass through the wet pads.



The wire goes through the pad at the corners of the registers and bends up on the outside of the cooler.



The lid is hinged on the side away from the fan for easy filling.

I added some weather stripping (siliconed) for a good seal, and a small chain so the lid would'nt tweek the small hinges.







Once the endless breeze fan and the pump get here I can finish this cooler.

This is my favorite pump.

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/products/fountains

It will hold 12 gals of water and there's room for a case of beer in the bottom.

It will use about 3/4s of a gallon of water per hour on the low fan speed.

It will cool a space up to 3000 cubic feet on high.

Power needed will be...

12 volt DC

1.5amps on low speed (250cfm)

1.92amps on medium speed (500cfm)

2.82amps on high speed! (900 cfm= to 10mph breeze)


Hope this helps you enjoy your BURNNNNNNNNNNN!!!