travel trailer tips?

[LowePro]

Plan sounds reasonable, please I hope your Honda gen is a quiet model.
May need to secure your window AC platform to keep the wind from tipping it over, it will be top heavy. If the window is bigger than the AC, a piece of plywood or Foam insulate can make a good adapter join the AC thru the window frame. Get an Ext cord rated for outdoor appliances and keep it as short as you can. And of course, set it up and test it at home

[Captain Goddammit]

I have a small window A/C that I use as an emergency backup in case my roof air fails. (Yes, I consider no A/C an emergency!) The little one has a very hard time cooling my 11-foot truck camper.
I had a buddy who used a small window A/C in a 9' truck camper and it barely cooled it.
Those small sets are usually abound 5k or 6k Btu, whereas the A/Cs RVs come with on the roof are usually around 11k - 13k Btu.
You can't afford to lose any efficiency. I'd do one of two things:
RVs pretty much always have roof vents. I'd look at setting the A/C down on the roof and ducting it's output into your roof vent. You could probably get away with cardboard and tape, making sure to absolutely seal it 100%, and covering that with styrofoam or some other sort of insulation. Lots if it.
Other option, can you remove the glass from your window and make it fit in, sealing the perimeter with cardboard and tape or whatever? You'd have to remove and replace the window on-playa, or do what my friend did and cut a wooden plug that he taped in place while traveling.

Stepping off the hot playa into a cool dark place with a comfy bed really takes the suffering out of Burning Man... I sleep during the hottest parts of the day, then go out in the evening and nighttime!

[rmc50]

A camping trailer can be a great luxury. It can also be the worst PITA imaginable. Sometimes both in the same trip.

I have towed a camping trailer many, many miles. My first camping trailer was an old, 15 foot single axle "Oasis" made in the '60s (this was in the late 80's that I bought this). I repacked the wheel bearings, replaced the brakes, made a few improvements on the water system and that trailer served me well. I have towed that trailer from California into Canada and down into Mexico and a number of western states. It towed easily behind my Ford Expedition.

The 26' Weekend Warrior that replaced it has more amenities and room but I had to buy a 3/4 ton truck to tow it. It has NOT been so reliable. It is basically too heavy, even when lightly loaded. Springs break, I have had a wheel bearing fail, tires blow. A PITA.

When buying an older trailer be wary! It would be far better to buy one that has been used a lot recently rather than one that has been sitting unused for years. If it has been towed 10,000 miles in the last year it will probably do a few thousand more. If it has been sitting unused for 5 years all sorts of things can start falling apart on the trip to Burning Man.

I highly recommend that you put some time on any trailer you buy in local trips before starting a long cross country trip. If it has a generator, and you expect to use it at Burning Man, then put some hours on it as well. Make sure your holding tanks hold and the fresh water tanks are fresh.

Pay attention to the tires. Like someone else said, tread wear is not the significant issue on trailer tires, it is the sidewalls. Tires have a date code on them (Google Tire Date Code). If the tires are older than 5 years, replace them, no matter how good they look.

Repack the wheel bearings.

While the bearings are getting repacked, check the brakes, replace anything that is suspect.

Believe me, it is so much easier and cheaper to replace these things early rather than wait for them to fail.

Rod

[Rusted Iron]

Good AC suggestions. I have some solid foam insulation panels left over from household repairs. I think I can use them to go around the sides of the unit and windows. Guess I'll have to wrap them in reflective tape in case they brake and moop.

We have had a variety of campers and trailers over the years. The last two years we camped in our enclosed utility trailer... It averaged 120 degrees in the daytime last year making naps potentially fatal. I like shorter naps than that.

[dragonpilot]

The last two years we camped in our enclosed utility trailer... It averaged 120 degrees in the daytime last year making naps potentially fatal. I like shorter naps than that.

Go to the section under "Preparation" titled "Keeping Cool." Build yourself a swamp cooler.

[HurtYurt]

Hi all!

I've got a travel trailer that I'm bringing to this year's burn and am looking for some wise words.

For the fridge access panel, is it advisable to tape an AC filter in front of the access panel to avoid dust getting in and covering electronics, etc? Or will that hinder circulation too much for the fridge to work?

I don't plan on using the trailer's AC at all. Is it worthwhile using an AC cover to not have the AC fill with dust? e.g. Something like http://www.adventurerv.net/imagemagic.p ... /27322.JPG.
Or are these normally not built for 'real wind' and will just become moop?

thx!

[Captain Goddammit]

I wouldn't do that, the fridge needs to ventilate, if you're running it on propane.
That A/C cover should be fine (although I think it's crazy not to use the A/C!)

[skippy3k]

I just tape up the vents on my AC using gaffer's tape. I don't use the AC out there anyway. I feel conspicuous enough in an RV, so I at least want to suffer along with everyone else. Except at night. I like being able to walk 10 feet to pee.

[Weebdog]

I have used an A/C filter over the vents of my refrigerator propane system for the last 3 years with no problems. I tape it on using blue painters tape. It really makes cleanup post burn pretty simple. As for the A/C on the roof I just tape or bungee a piece of sheet to keep out the dust. I also tape a couple of A/C filters over the windows I keep open all the time so I can haave a little ventilation all day. Buy the good filters.

[HurtYurt]

Another crazy idea, looking a sanity test

I know some people put a shade structure over their RV/trailer with some space between roof of trailer and shade (something, something radiant heat and air helps keep the trailer cooler)

I'm thinking of a poor-mans version of this (ok lazy man's version) and looking for input.

Take 4 sturdy milk crates, attach carpet remnant on the bottom of them.
Put a milk crate on each corner of the RV roof (carpet face down so it doesn't scratch root)
Then tie rope (or steel cable) between the crates so they don't move independently of each other.

Then hang shade cloth/camo netting over trailer roof over the crats, making it taut between the crates (for said air space) and then guy it down in all 4 corners (at least).

Thinking I could use zip-ties to attach camo to the crates as well to further avoid any potential shifting.

yay? crazy talk?

thx!

[LowePro]

Hmm, I like the idea, we've had good luck w/ camo netting and zip ties, it makes nice breathable shade for a top layer of our dome and a tent shade. I like white snow camo, more reflective.
As for your idea: the camo netting is droopy and hard to get taut, so depending on the size of your trailer you may need a few milk crates in the middle as well to hold it up. The camo netting itself is not a load-bearing material IMO. Due to the plentiful holes, it tends to stretch a lot and rip occasionally. We zip tie thru 2 or 3 holes so if one rips, it still stays attached. I would not trust camo netting to hold the milk crates to anything by itself. Guy lines are definitely in order to keep the milk crates anchored, or maybe a looooooong ratchet strap running all the way around the trailer? Or are there built in clips anywhere on the trailer to attach straps?

You may want to think about having some excess camo net to drape over the upper sides of the trailer as well, the sun hitting the sides of the trailer gets very hot too, not just the roof. Esp the west facing wall in the afternoon. And secure this "awning" as well so it doesn't buffet or blow away.

I am very curious, please take pics and post your results!

[Captain Goddammit]

I do something similar with my camper when it's parked most of the time at home. I keep a tarp (actually the roof piece from a Costco 10x20) over it but the roof already has things sticking up everywhere, A/C, fridge vent, luggage rails, hatches etc. so I put several milk crates up there between the other things to elevate the tarp, mostly so rain water doesn't pool up.
It works well. I don't do it on the playa because of the winds.
There I have tarps tightly attached through grommets every foot to a perimeter frame of fence post pipes.
You can buy corner and "tee" pieces but I welded up my own because I didn't like the available ones.
Since my rig is a truck camper I attach the upright support poles to the camper jacks with stainless hose clamps. A cordless drill makes quick work of it. My upright supports go all the way to the ground.
To make playa setup easier I attached 1/2" electrical conduit along the edges of the tarp through each grommet. Then I only had to attach that every several feet to the frame.
It's hard to tell in the photo but it's a few feet wider than the camper is for a bit extra shade.
There's gotta be some slick way to attach to a trailer but I'd have to see it to figure it out.

(note blue painter's tape around a side hatch that can let dust into interior)
It worked but considering everything I'm just gonna let the A/C take care of it next time. That's what I'd always done before.

[dragonpilot]

I know someone who puts beach balls on top of their trailer and tosses the shade cover over them and guys it all down. Works well...no damage to the roof, balls take up little space for transport.

[Elliot]

Then there is my approach -- permanent attachment of a steel structure to hold the shade cloth. But you might not want to do this to a rental!

[FIGJAM]

I like this pic better.

[Elliot]

Yeah, and I have added to the structure this year, so there is something like a giant luggage rack on the entire roof of the bus. All for shade with a good air gap.
Now back to normal vehicles like most folks drive.

[demeter]

I'm towing a 900lb Coleman pop-up camper with a 2009 Toyota Corolla.

Its tow limit is 1500lbs (but the same exact vehicle is rated for 2000 in Canada??) and we're coming from Ohio!

Wish me luck


Edited to add: I've only owned the camper for a year (although I was 2-3 years old when it was manufactured). I'm buying it two brand-new tires before the Playa and installing a transmission fluid cooler on my car.

[dragonpilot]

Sounds like your trailer weight is well enough under the manufacturer's recommendation...which they tend to inflate to sell more cars. Assume you have gone out on a shake-down cruise and this will not be the first trip with this setup?

Keep your speed at 50-55 mph. Your gas consumption goes up almost geometrically with every 5 mph increase in speed...drag coefficients and things like that...plus it's just plain safer if you blow a tire.

Do you have a copilot? Someone who can take over driving? Make sure you and whoever stay rested...pull over at the slightest sign of drowsiness.

Good luck!

[specialk2]

Common sense and you will be just fine. Biggest thing I would watch or be concerned about is the transmission. As in make sure transmission is freshly serviced, etc. You have gauges, lights, etc. to make sure you don't ruin an engine................problem is vehicles don't have any lights, or gauges for transmission temperature, etc. and usually person has no clue until it is all over and trust me it surprises and happens to many out west in the mountains. Smart advice would be that when putting the cooler on have them put a manual gauge on also...........even if just temporarily run into vehicle so you can watch the transmission temperature and keep it under 225 degrees or absolute max of 250 degrees and you be good and if a transmission shop is servicing tell them to set the transmission main pressure up to max or high end of spec. Will shift rough but this is the pressure that applys or holds the clutches engaged. The higher the pressure the less chance of slipping. Just FYI and last you have our phone number so worst case have any problems across 80 just give us a call as we coming out of Nebraska across 80.

[Captain Goddammit]

'09 Corollas have computer-controlled auto transmissions. You cannot just "turn up the pressure". In fact, pretty much all automatic transmissions require hard parts to adjust the shift points and line pressure. There's no adjustment knob.
I don't believe a tiny trailer like that is going to be any drama at all, I would just say bring a spare trailer tire, and a set of spare wheel bearings AND grease for it. They are cheap and easy. Even if you aren't up for putting new ones in first, having them in the trunk will be a HUGE advantage if they fail, which I've seen happen many times. Those tiny wheels that small trailers have spin really fast at freeway speed and tend to overheat their grease and fry.

[Elliot]

The most difficult part of pulling a trailer or driving a vehicle that is otherwise heavy or near its limits, can be to drive slower than normal all the time. We humans are creatures of habit, and we tend to take the speed up to "normal", quite automatically. It can require constant mental effort to limit the speed. This effort is necessary for safety. I suggest minimizing the usual distractions such as listen to the radio, and instead concentrating on the task at hand. For example, check the mirrors frequently, watching for smoke, loose pieces, tire-wobbling and anything else unusual. This is more tiring, yes, so I recommend shortening your driving stints to match.

This is what we teach in the trucking industry. I had a few drivers over the years who claimed they never get tired from driving all day, since they enjoy driving so much. Those are the scariest words I know of, because this tells me that the guy is not paying attention to the task at hand -- just enjoying the scenery. This made me disinclined to hire the guy. Accidents are a bad thing.

When pulling a trailer, the most dangerous situation is going down-hill. This is because gravity will make the trailer push the car when you apply the brakes on the car. This is the very recipe for the dreaded "fish-tailing" and/or "jack-knifing" types of crashes. (Larger trailers have their own brakes, but this only "helps a bit"; it does not eliminate the problem.) So you should think ahead so that you can minimize braking while going down-hill. Slow down when approaching a steep down-hill, not after you are already under the evil spell of gravity. And do your necessary down-hill braking while going straight, not in curves.

Tires and wheel-bearing, yes. Wheel bearings are "out-of-sight-out-of-mind", but lead to much worse mishaps, and alarmingly often.

Be safe out there blah, blah, blah....