Work In Progress 2015/2016

[Tin Halo]

Sorry about that. Sent them right from the phone to my postimage account. Do they not show up at all, or are they just big enough that you have to resize the browser window...?

[trilobyte]

Looks like potentially interesting projects, but yeah... wow those are huge. As a rule, when embedding images for a message board you want to stick to no more than 600-700 pixels wide. The site will display them, but truncates them and cuts off anything that goes too far to the right (so it doesn't cover the user's profile, PM buttons, etc). Even though *you* might be on a computer or device with lots of pixels, lots of others are not. Somebody on a netbook might only see a tiny strip of the left side of your pic. Aside from width, height becomes an issue - giant images like that means lots of scrolling (even on my 1440p display, your post was more than 50% of the scrolling I had to get through for all of page 1).

If the site where you host your pics doesn't offer resizing, you can look at something like imgur or even a free tumblr blog. Then simply copy the image address for the lower rez image and use that in your ePlaya embed.

Good luck with the projects, though, very cool stuff!

[Tin Halo]

Oh, it offers resizing. Seems that I needed to tell it to do that from my phone as well as my laptop/desktop. Didn't save my preferences.

I am resizing at the moment.

[trilobyte]

No worries - think of it as its own work in progress

I finished getting next year's batches of limoncello off to a start recently. I'll post pictures here in a bit, but have to get caught up on some stuff first.

[Tin Halo]

So I've resized and reloaded the pics. Wonder if there's a server update somewhere that needs to happen, because when I refresh this thread, the pics are still huge but the only ones in the folder (at postimage) are the resized ones. And I can't edit the original post anymore, unless Trilo has a double-secret set of buttons to enable that...

I don't usually post huge pics, because I'm well aware of limitations on the other end. I thought my preferences were global across all devices when logged into my account.

[Patsh]

it's a bit time-consuming, but I was able to see the full photos...
left-clicking on the photo gives the option to "view image", choosing that brings up the full picture.
Then, the "back" click (upper left) brings back the forum, and on to the next pic.
lather, rinse, repeat.

[Tin Halo]

it's a bit time-consuming,

Which wasn't my intent and is not acceptable to me. Dammit...
But thanks for the effort anyhoo...

[lucky420]

love your projects Tin

[trilobyte]

It may be that your hosting service uses different URL's for the resized images. The site only allows up to 30 minutes from the time of posting for editing posts, if you really wanted to change the old post you can send me an email with a revised list of URL's (in the order that they appear in your post) and I can go make the edit for you when I get the chance.

Overall, I'd say no worries about the existing post - it's something to keep in mind for future posts and updates.

[Tin Halo]

...and now the tides of project may shift with this morning's acquisition of an industrial sewing machine, fully equipped and in working order, for $25.00...

[Molotov]

Schwinn trike arrived in a box today "Some assembly required..." My first mod will be to mount a 3/4 inch plywood platform on the back where the basket goes-then I will use thumbscrews into that for easy install and removal of the basket as needed. The platform, you ask? For stand up riders or bulky gear. Hope to get electric front wheel motor installed before Christmas to complete the propulsion system. After that it's just lights and bling.

[FIGJAM]

Watch your weight limits!

[Molotov]

Only size 0 hotty riders for me...

[junglesmacks]

30 Channel High Current LED Controller- http://www.nledshop.com/30chan/




along with a metric ton of these...






..and I'll let you guess the rest.


v3.0 is coming.

[Tin Halo]

My attention. You have it.

[torrey.smith]

Progress report!
I've managed to build an angle into the joints by fixturing at the angle in question and running the same program.
I'm experimenting with solid joints as well as putting a hole through the center to even out strain due to warping (we shall see how that works out).
This will get interesting when it comes time to make double-ended struts. For now I'm just focusing on joint geometry.
Link to hi resolution images. This album will grow.


Here is the cut. I chose 15 degrees for these test samples because that's a pretty big angle for a geodesic and I want to make sure this design is flexible. This is one with the hole feature.


6 pieces assembled, this is a solid joint (no hole).


Solid and thru-hole joints side by side.


2D and 3D versions of the same joint pattern. Yes I sleep with them sometimes

[Tin Halo]

That looks incredible, mister. As if I needed more stuff for my mind to process...

[torrey.smith]

That looks incredible, mister. As if I needed more stuff for my mind to process...

Thanks! I'm trying to push forward until this can be applied to building something big.

[Tin Halo]

Have you considered leaving these pieces the size they are - and gluing them together - but having similar notches (with angle) on the butt end; plain old planks with matching notches on each end would attach to each of these and you could (theoretically) build domes of different sizes...?

[torrey.smith]

I hadn't thought of that... that's a good idea.

I think there may be several avenues to explore depending on application.

Your idea does lend itself to modularity, which is awesome.

[Tin Halo]

Sag, I think, would be the limiting factor. Seems to me an 8' span would be about as long as you could get, between nodes.

Leaving the pitch on every pieces' interlocking teeth would allow for downward stress to be applied diagonally across the length of the joint.

And you can see how that'd travel to the playa: 5 or 6 stacks of nodes, and a neatly-stacked pile of lumber. Hell, the lumber stack could sit on the bottom and the nodes could be spread out across the top, in layers.

[Tin Halo]

On Instructables this morning...



image host



"...I... s-a-i-d-...'m-e-d-i-u-m...w-e-l-l'...d-a-m-m-i-t..."

[FIGJAM]

Devils food cake tray???

[torrey.smith]

If I combine these two vertex center ideas:


I might be able to create an injection port and flow channel for epoxy:


It would be cool if you could design it to fully wet-out the contact surfaces and give you a visibal signal when you were done. Or maybe just go by volume.

You can get epoxy guns with disposable mixing nozzles.

I wonder if you could assemble a layer in the structure dry and then inject epoxy when it was all together and right. Then move upwards.

[Tin Halo]

Honestly, at that point I think you've reached the 'over-engineering' stage.
A single trace of epoxy, as provided by your channel, is going to do very little... essentially, it'll put a string of epoxy in there. The effectiveness will be next to nil and the purpose of epoxy - which is to bond two surfaces, as much across the surfaces as possible - is negated. And you will have added a layer of weakness to the joints by boring a hole straight through them.
Seems to me you'd be best off just brushing the epoxy on the joint surfaces, and sanding any bleed out off, when dry.

[ygmir]

do ya think epoxy is the best choice for wood? Seems some of the wood specific glues hold and penetrate better.

[torrey.smith]

Both comments speak well to my current challenges:

1. There will be a significant nominal gap (for assembly and to account for warpage) between mating surfaces that the channel would hopefully feed until a "sheet" of epoxy has formed between the parts.

2. Epoxy does not shrink, and is thus suited to filling that gap. It can also cure quickly, which is a real concern for on-Playa assembly.

This whole concept seems to immediately obviate basic woodworking joinery conventions with the large gaps vs. tight net fits which may not be feasible on-Playa, even if machined on-Playa

[Joeln]

Injecting glue can be tricky. You say there will be a significant gap. I've seen injected glue head out the path of least resistance leaving substantial areas of higher resistance completely dry.

There's nothing like hand application to insure good coverage especially on a complex joint like you have.

[Tin Halo]

do ya think epoxy is the best choice for wood? Seems some of the wood specific glues hold and penetrate better.

Yeah. Titebond III comes to mind.

[Tin Halo]

1. There will be a significant nominal gap (for assembly and to account for warpage) between mating surfaces that the channel would hopefully feed until a "sheet" of epoxy has formed between the parts.

Contradiction in terms, innit? If it's significant, it's not nominal. If it's nominal, it's not significant.

2. Epoxy does not shrink, and is thus suited to filling that gap. It can also cure quickly, which is a real concern for on-Playa assembly.

This whole concept seems to immediately obviate basic woodworking joinery conventions with the large gaps vs. tight net fits which may not be feasible on-Playa, even if machined on-Playa

It seems to me that creating a gap just to fill it is kind of working against your goals, here.

I offer that concerns about warpage are magnified and are causing you to create workarounds for something that will likely not even rear its ugly head and if it does it'll be so minimal that you'll be able to overcome the issue within short order.
I also offer that glue setup times are not so drastically longer than epoxy, that it would make a difference. The Titebond II I use in the shop has an initial working time of a half-hour, a 'useability' time frame of an hour or so, and 'rock solid' in several hours. Now, contrast that to your playa setup schedule... if, upon arriving at campsite, you immediately get to the bidness of assembling your wonderdome, by the time you get to the top (or the bottom, depending upon your approach) the first glue joints will have set up well enough for handling. After the structure is up, then there's the covering - might take another hour, 'cause...y'know...wind...- so your glue is set up even more. After all that, then you've got to get to setting up the rest of your camp, so there's more time for the glue to do that voodoo it do so well.

Realize, too, that using wood glue supports - to some degree - the possibility of rework. Let's say your best-laid plans end up in a mild clusterfuck and you have to pull something apart and reconfigure. Tearing apart an epoxy joint is gonna destroy your piece and make you create a whole new series of cusswords for the human lexicon. With wood glue, you stand a better chance of salvaging the parts for re-use; you at least have the option of using warm water to weaken and open the joint again.