The Car Thread

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 6:59 pm

'67 is The Good Year for Bugs... That's exactly the right one. The car you're describing isn't worth $30k but $5-$6-$7k is likely.

Not everyone knows that tri-power middle and end carbs are different. The front and rear ones have no idle circuits or chokes, they function only on hard throttle.
I'd like a three-twos setup, they work great and look great. But the dual quads are there and also look great - and sound cool at wide-open-throttle.
Dual 4-barrels were progressive-linkage too. I've set mine up that way and I've run them hooked directly together, and I haven't really been able to tell the difference.
I need to go through those carbs, they aren't really well set up.

I do have an old pair of Flowmasters that were once on my Trans Am... they've been lying outside for years... but they're probably fine, I ought to put them in. I had relatively tame, quiet exhaust on the car since I was much younger, because I didn't want extra police attention or to disturb the neighbors because in those younger days I usually came home very very late.
Screw it, I'll put the Flowmasters on! Good idea.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:43 pm

Yea, the center is a 2CG, the outboards are 2G. Rochester made a ton of different 2 barrels, with different part numbers, so it can be pretty confusing. You can run standard 2G carbs as outboards, but it's best to deactivate the idle circuits.

It's the linkage that's a bitch to set up correctly. Im not looking forward to it.

What I really need to do is pull the motor, freshen up the top end, repaint it, and really doll it up. Then I'll have this gorgeous engine in a shabby compartment in true rat rod style!

Flowmastsrs are pretty tame. I have the series 40's on a 383 Stroker, and they sound great. The 58 has open side pipes. They are pretty loud, and don't sound great, but at low rpm they are not too bad. Of course I don't start it at might or in the wee hours. So appropriately enough, I have a "load pipes save lives" sticker on it....

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 9:50 pm

OK, here's what you do with Chevy (and other GM) starters:
Here's the stock solenoid, the big terminal is the wire straight from the battery, the one on the right marked "S" is the "start" wire terminal. The left one is marked "R" for Resistor. Most cars don't use that one, it was for old cars with points distributors. The ignition coil had a resistor to reduce voltage and spare wear on the points. That extra terminal on the solenoid supplied +12 volt power directly to the coil, bypassing the resistor while you were cranking the engine with the starter. That helped it get started, especially since voltage was already low during cranking. Unless you have an old points distributor, forget that one.

I just hammer some small copper pipe flat, drill a couple holes, and bend it a little to fit over the battery and "S" terminals:

Get a Ford-style solenoid and mount it wherever you like, preferably somewhere away from exhaust pipes, where you can reach it. Connect a battery cable from the new solenoid to the shorted-out stock Chevy starter-mounted one. Connect your cable from your battery to the other terminal on the new solenoid, and connect your "Start" wire to the small terminal on the new solenoid.

Now your Chevy will start when the engine is hot. You don't have to try to connect those cables and wires to the stock solenoid underneath the exhaust pipes while holding the starter while on your back ever again, and you don't have to disconnect the battery to change your starter because unless the key is in the "start" position, there's no power at the starter at all.
You also have a convenient place to use a screwdriver to short the start terminal and bump the motor when adjusting valves or whatever.

EspressoDude · Post by **EspressoDude** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:32 am

Question Captain:
In your bench setup: Doesn't the heavy current draw go from the top copper stud; through the closed copper contacts in the solenoid; to the bottom stud which is the starter winding ? Your copper bar should go across the big terminals? I believe the S terminal is the one that energizes the coil to pull the plunger. Normally connected to the start position of the ignition switch. If the big contacts are in poor condition your setup won't bypass them. I think the S terminal needs to be included in the copper bus bar to cause the gear on the starter to engage the flywheel.

note: this is a mental re-hash of having starters apart and rebuilding them. I have not actually tried this.

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:16 am

I've wondered that myself. I'm not the one who invented this trick, it was even used by Chevrolet themselves on big block trucks and motorhomes. Apparently this is what they need, and I can verify it has worked for me. I have considered shorting out ALL the solenoid terminals to see if it's any better.
They sell ready-made "hot start kits" that do exactly what I showed. Some people use 10-gauge or better wire between the terminals but I think a solid copper shunt is better.
You can buy Ford solenoids that have the "I" terminal on them, if you have points. Or, I don't see why you couldn't just connect the "I" resistor-bypass wire to the big switched side of the Ford solenoid.

EspressoDude · Post by **EspressoDude** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:05 am

Found the answer! It is not the hundreds of amps that flow through the main contacts that is the issue. It is the 40 - 50 amps required to pull in the solenoid. That current has to flow through the engine and dashboard wiring harness, key switch, and to the S terminal. The Ford setup you are teaching us eliminates that issue.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-03 ... start-fix/

my thoughts:
Some starters like Chevrolet require the pinion and flywheel gears engaged before turning the starter.
Some (Mopar ?) have a spiral spline on the starter gear (aka bendix drive) that uses starter torque to spin the starter gear into the flywheel.
Unless you have a ancient vehicle like a '41 Dodge army truck or Willys that had a starter pedal above the gas pedal. Mash it to engage teeth and then make the contacts for current and torque.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Sat Dec 13, 2014 4:13 pm

Very cool idea. I may have to do that on my RV. The 58 doesn't seem to hot a hot start issue..'

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:18 pm

So for the last year or so, there has been an annoying rattle coming from under the dash of my truck. I've half heartedly looked underneath the dash for it, and went so far as to bundle miscellaneous wires and such. I was simply guessing at the problem, and hopped that if I did enough stuff, I'd accidentally fix it.

No such luck.

So this past week I decided to spend several hours on the problem, and get to the bottom of it. I removed a bunch of stuff, including the speedo assembly, radio, and other various components. While I saw nothing that was glaringly out of place, I did see potential causes of this annoying rattle. So I used gaffing tape and zip ties to secure everything in sight.

I then took the truck out for a spin, and there it was....

That annoying rattle.

Wtf.

Well, I exhausted all the time, energy any patience for this. Fuck it, I'll turn the radio up. Im done.

Several days later, I was checking the oil when I saw this relay dangling off the firewall. Could it really be so simple? So I zip tied it back in place and the rattle was gone. Turns out that the relay hitting the firewall made it sound like it was coming from under the dash.

Problem fixed.

EspressoDude · Post by **EspressoDude** » Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:45 pm

those rattles are lots of fun. I once took most of my 52 Willys 4x4 wagon apart looking for an intermittent buzz/grind sound. Like an occasional bearing race spinning. hubs apart, wheel bearings loctited, etc.. Turns out it was a flash light bracket mounted on the steering column with little rollers on it.

Ratty · Post by **Ratty** » Tue Dec 30, 2014 12:42 am

I've had good luck getting rid of rattles by having a teenager in the passenger seat. They have great hearing and aren't influenced by knowing too much.

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Tue Dec 30, 2014 10:36 am

Oh... this brings back memories -- and mixed feelings. Decades ago, I spent a few years in an automobile dealership, specializing in what's know as "squeaks, rattles and water-leaks". One brand new pickup-truck had a wind-whistle that I never found -- after something like 16 hours of work. I even took the bed off, and drove it on the freeway, eliminating that part of the vehicle. After I gave up, a second mechanic tried, and he couldn't find it either. I sometimes wonder what happened to that truck.

southern crone · Post by **southern crone** » Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:10 pm

I bought a Subaru years ago. We liked it so much my husband went back and bought him one to go to work in. We took it home but couldn't get the heater to work. We took it back to the dealership and after a week we went back to pick it up. The owner came out handed me all the money back and said they couldn't figure out why the heater wouldn't work. He said that was a first for him.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:57 pm

A friend of mine bought a chevy truck from his local dealer. Right out of the gate this thing was plagued with problems. After getting the run around from the dealer, he parked it out in front of the dealership with a big plywood sign in the bed that said "LEMON". He moved the truck every few days so it wouldn't get towed, but kept at it for weeks.

Apparently some high end corporate GM people visited the dealership and saw the truck. My buddy isn't too sure what happened next, but several days later there was a letter from GM offering a full refund for the truck, and 5k off another GM truck.

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:38 am

So... I was scrolling lazily thru a local buy-&-sell website last night, waiting to fall asleep, looking for wheels for my brother's Datsun, when I noticed a 15" aluminum wheel for sale, and a couple comments down somebody asked if he had a set of four to fit a trailer. So I posted that I have such a set -- which has been gathering cobwebs in the back of a shed for many years.

This morning I dug them out, and discovered that they have Ford part numbers. Turns out, they are known as 1980s Lincoln Town Car wheels, but were also used on other fancy Ford products for something like 15 years. And they are in demand. Now I wait to see if this local fellow buys them. If not, they go on Craigslist at twice the local price.

What do you guys know about these wheels? They are 15 x 6.5, with 5 on 4 1/2.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:42 pm

All I can tell you is that they will also fit 5 lug Toyotas.

Pretty cool for a trailer.

The capt and I could build an mv around those....

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:52 pm

I remember they were quite common on the fanciest boat trailers, like for those rocket-ship bass boats. I suppose I can look up what-all they fit, and include that in the Craigslist ad. But I'm guessing a Ford hot-rodder will jump on them. Hmmm... maybe the HAMB website. Is that what it is called? HAMB? Something like that.

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 10:40 pm

Those wheels won't exist in the H.A.M.B. universe, they are strictly old-school style people. They hate my 1969 Vette rallys because they're too new.
Not to do any bubble-bursting, but I've never heard of anyone being excited over those wheels... if you find someone who is, sell them to him!

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 10:47 pm

Yeah, I was reading on HAMB just now. They seem to l-o-a-t-h-e such wheels.

Might be cool on an early Mustang, though.
The local guy isn't following up, so I guess I will put them on Craigslist. No worries. If they don't sell, I might put them back on the trailer and have a little class, for once.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 5:43 pm

The guys on the hamb are pretty opinionated, and a lot of the time are just assholes. Makes this place seem like mister Rogers neighborhood.

And whatever you do, don't hang out on pirate4x4.com

It's mostly a bunch of wannabe teenagers who think they are ths next king of the hammers champs...

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:03 pm

ranger magnum wrote:The guys on the hamb are pretty opinionated, and a lot of the time are just assholes. Makes this place seem like mister Rogers neighborhood.

And whatever you do, don't hang out on pirate4x4.com

It's mostly a bunch of wannabe teenagers who think they are ths next king of the hammers champs...

Oh, I am quite familiar with old-timey hot rods, such as HAMB covers. I'm 63 years old, ya know, and I have been following hot-rodding since I was a kid. I once stayed a week at Tex Smith's house, if you remember him from countless magazines. And rode with Brian Brennan in his black flathead model A roadster. And Jack Stewart and his massive collection of 1932 Ford stuff. Good times. Of course, you are too young to recognize these names.

Now that you mention it.... Yes, ePlaya is wonderfully civil. Sometimes I go on a Dodge Dakota board for technical information, and even those guys are foul-mouthed buffoons. So three cheers for ePlaya and Burners!

Now back to unloading all kinds of wheels that have accumulated here. Already sold an assortment, actually. Winter activity.

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 7:37 pm

I used to be on the H.A.M.B. I mean, they cater to one of my absolute favorite subjects - old-school hot rods and customs.
But yeah... I can't stand the place either.
This board really is unique in that it centers around a subject common to us all but also caters to virtually any other topic imaginable. And it's not moderated by assholes.

ranger magnum · Post by **ranger magnum** » Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:28 pm

Yea, I like this site. I've met some fantastic people because of it. I've also seen some complete idiots, and some that get butt hurt over nothing....

tatonka · Post by **tatonka** » Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:51 am

i found my old Indian I used to own , its for sale in Washington State. He wants 2000.00 for it , so Ive been e-mailing him about the bike and the last e-mail he changed his mind and its not for sale

Told him my number and to call me if he wants to reconcider

http://www.royalenfields.com/2008/11/yo ... ndian.html

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:23 pm

I posted a free (project) car and motorcycle on the "no costco" thread, you've not seen it.........anyone?

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 6:04 pm

I saw it. Now I just need a spare school bus with a good Cummins 5.9.

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 6:51 pm

Elliot wrote:I saw it. Now I just need a spare school bus with a good Cummins 5.9.

5.9's are not so hard to come by. would it bolt up to your trans?
I've seen good running older ones, still turbo, for2500 bucks,for the whole 2wd truck.

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 7:43 pm

No, the question is... would a 5.9 bolt up to your trans -- the Mercedes trans?

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:42 pm

Elliot wrote:No, the question is... would a 5.9 bolt up to your trans -- the Mercedes trans?

ha no.............

Elorrum · Post by **Elorrum** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:46 pm

I'm not a car person, I just own one. Occasionally I get the feeling that I can do it myself with regards to things that other people charge a lot of money to do for me. ygmir can attest to the unholy rattle and buzz and vibration that was coming out of my engine compartment and radiating to what felt like the front end, and the passenger floor. Thank you to you tube, ford focus forums, yeah it was the motor mounts. The shop did the bottom rear transmission mount, and suggested if I "wasn't happy" ???! to replace the top mounts. Their repair did cut the noise in half, but it was still there. I didn't want to give them another $300, so I did a little research and thought I'd try myself. Not difficult to change, not too expensive to acquire (go with the ford oEM part for the passenger side mount though, the Anchor part is crap. sez the interwebz.) I had to borrow a jack that would fit under the engine, and ran out to get a deep socket for a couple of nuts I couldn't get a short socket over. It runs smooth and quiet now. I have a nagging feeling that something is going to fall off still, but sometimes I have to believe there is a margin for success and I did fit within it.

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:11 pm

Elorrum wrote:I'm not a car person, I just own one. Occasionally I get the feeling that I can do it myself with regards to things that other people charge a lot of money to do for me. ygmir can attest to the unholy rattle and buzz and vibration that was coming out of my engine compartment and radiating to what felt like the front end, and the passenger floor. Thank you to you tube, ford focus forums, yeah it was the motor mounts. The shop did the bottom rear transmission mount, and suggested if I "wasn't happy" ???! to replace the top mounts. Their repair did cut the noise in half, but it was still there. I didn't want to give them another $300, so I did a little research and thought I'd try myself. Not difficult to change, not too expensive to acquire (go with the ford oEM part for the passenger side mount though, the Anchor part is crap. sez the interwebz.) I had to borrow a jack that would fit under the engine, and ran out to get a deep socket for a couple of nuts I couldn't get a short socket over. It runs smooth and quiet now. I have a nagging feeling that something is going to fall off still, but sometimes I have to believe there is a margin for success and I did fit within it.

so very cool!! well done!!

*crowd cheers*

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