Guidance on working with leather

[CyanEssence]

Hello All,

I have been inspired to experiment with working with leather to make clothing/accessories recently. My first project will involve adding a piece of leather to the back of a well worn jacket that I love (it is getting some holes on the shoulders because I always carry a heavy backpack with textbooks). I plan to do some patterning on the leather, and then attach it to the jacket.

I have just started researching sources for the leather, the types of leather that are out there, how to etch/burn patterns into the leather, how to secure it to an existing garment, how to prepare/treat/etc the leather so it will last, and just about everything else involved with the process.

I was hoping that some of you might have some words of wisdom from personal experience, and maybe be able to point me in the direction of some good resources (like videos, websites, stores (online and brick-and-mortar), etc.).

Best,
Cyan

[tatonka]

Howdy , there are lots of vids on you-tube on leather , here is one I checked out a mth or so ago.

[media]

[Drawingablank]

First, My qualifications: I have owned a leather supply company for 15 years and taught leather carving for 13 years. I also have a garment business, although I do not normally make leather garments to sell.

1. Embellishing / texturing / patterning leather is normally done on vegetable tanned leather as it holds the imprint well. Unfortunately it is typically too stiff for garments. So unless you plan to buy textured garment leather (such as an alligator or snake texture) or invest in expensive equipment, repairing this with textured leather will probably be a bad idea.

2. Burning is possible in garment type leathers but extreme care must be taken to not burn through them as they are typically very thin.

3. Garment leather typically doesn't need any prep although a good saddlesoap or other type of wax may be used to protect it when done.

4. The optimum way to attach it would be sewing. If you don't have access to a heavy duty machine that means hand sewing which will require punching each needle hole. Even garment leather will kill the average home sewing machine. This is the machine I use for sewing leather - it weighs about 70 pounds without the motor or table and has zero plastic parts. The motor (that grey thing just visible beneath the table puts out 2/5 horsepower, weighs about 40 or 50 pounds, and is as big as an entire hobbyist type sewing machine.

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5. an alternate way to attach would be contact cement (I recommend Barge as that is what most shoemakers use). It is leas elegant than sewing but will get the job done.

I do have a series of instructional videos for embellishing leather at http://www.onestopcandle.com/leather/leatherinstr.php Disclaimer - This is on my own commercial site so the mods may have to remove the link. If so PM me for it.

[The Rod]

That thing belongs in the Tool Porn thread.

I am not a highly trained leather crafter, but I do fuck around with the stuff quite a bit. I have to agree with most of what DAB said above and offer a couple tips and suggestions.

Depending on how attached you are to specific colors and textures the thrift store may be the best bet for cheap garment leather, used jackets, skirts and other things can sometimes be had for fractions of what good quality leather will cost new.

It is possible to sew thin/soft leather on an 'average' home sewing machine with a heavy duty/leather needle, but may not be the best thing for your machine, suede is generally softer and can easier on the machines. Another option for attaching leather to fabric is rivets and studs/spikes depending on the sturdiness of the base fabric and how much you like punk rock...

[pretty_monster]

i, too, fuck around with just about everything sewable and all i have is a basic model home machine.

i turned a second hand coat into a bomber cap. i liked that the leather was already worn and aged and softened up. i used a leather needle and went slowly and my machine did just fine. at one point, i was going through 2 layers of leather, a layer of fur, and 2 layers of cotton. again, i took it very slowly, sometimes hand cranking the wheel.

that approach would do well enough to patch a jacket but i have no advice about truly working leather.

[CyanEssence]

Wow, thanks for all of the tips guys.

I don't have a sewing machine, and have hand sewed all of my faux fur vests, etc. thus far, so I was planning on hand sewing the leather to the jacket. I was thinking I could use a drafting compass to make markings of an exact distance from one another, and punch holes in the leather at each marking with a nail or buy one of those nifty leather punching tools. Then I would use some heavy gauge thread to sew it on.

I really like the idea of sourcing leather from a thrift shop, thanks for that.

I was looking at vegetable tanned leather, because my research so far (limited mind you) seemed to say it was best for holding patterns. But it sounds like this will be impractical for my jacket, since it is too thick (thanks for the advice on that one too).

I do mandala, and fractal-esque drawings/paintings, and want to burn something like this into the leather. It sounds like I might need to practice this for a few hours on some scraps before going for the end product. I honestly don't even know what to use for this yet, but vaguely recall doing something like this in cub scouts as a kid, and it was similar to a small soldering iron. Then again, my memory is sometimes like a mad-libs - it just fills in the blanks with weirdness when the actual facts get forgotten.

Drawingablank - that sewing machine is bad ass!

[theCryptofishist]

I do mandala, and fractal-esque drawings/paintings, and want to burn something like this into the leather. It sounds like I might need to practice this for a few hours on some scraps before going for the end product. I honestly don't even know what to use for this yet, but vaguely recall doing something like this in cub scouts as a kid, and it was similar to a small soldering iron.

Might have been a wood burning tool. You could try. It probably wouldn't set the house on fire.

[CyanEssence]

I think you are right about it being a wood burning tool.

I just found an old leather jacket at good will today. It's big, a color I can live with, fairly thick, feels and smells like it's decent quality, it's in awesome shape, and there are large sections that I can cut out and use for different projects that I have in mind.

My next step is to get down to the craft store to buy some muslin to make patterns. Then, I need to look into attaching this piece to the old jacket, which is cotton.

An unforeseen problem came up when I did a temporary repair on one of the rips, I sewed a spot up, but this caused the fabric to tear, after a few days of normal use, below the stitching I just made. I think that I may be able to avoid this on most of the edges by sewing the leather to the thicker spots near existing stitching (where the original jackets pieces come together, for example, the back and the collar). I may also try using the contact cement like drawingablank mentioned. I am thinking this might reinforce the cotton and prevent tearing.

I may have to abandon the jacket though, since the material may not hold up to new stitching.

If I do, I am planning on finding a second hand wool jacket to do this on, and adding leather embellishments on the back and front (near the shoulder/pectoral area).

[Drawingablank]

Try to find / borrow a wood burning tool like those used by wood carvers or other type with variable heat setting. It is really easy to burn right through garment leather and you will get much finer control with a unit like this. I use a detail master because of all the different tip options. http://www.detailmasteronline.com/index.html They are pricey for a one off project, but if you can borrow one it will do a great job.

Unless the patterns are really complex a piece of brown kraft paper, oak tag, or shirt box cardboard may suffice. I make full length coat patterns from craft paper with no issues, and convert them to oak tag if it is a pattern I use a lot.

To improve the strength of the repair, consider using fray check around the edges of the tear, then sew in a piece of fabric on the inside of the jacket to which the leather patch can be sewn. Basically sandwich the tear to keep it from getting more stress.

[CyanEssence]

Thanks DAB. I'll definitely look into Fray Check. I've been looking around online at the same kinds of tools that you mentioned, but I think that asking around for one to borrow is what I will end up doing.

By the way, what are your thoughts on the cheaper pyrography tools, like the ones that run around $20-$50?

[Token]

One method I have used with great success is rivets and grommets.

For under a hundred clams you can get a real decent press with dies that make punching and fastening a snap.

Basics:

Make the first cut count:

Get a large pine shelf board on the longish side. You cut on this surface.
Get lots of razors to do the cuts. The double sided blades for carpet cutters (square not pointy) cut well and last.
Get a thick metal straight edge. I use a long square and even longer level cuz I had those handy.
Practice cutting. Smooth motion on the slow side with just enough pressure to lightly score the pine board underneath. Blade angle is key. To sharp and you don't cut through, to obtuse and you jagg the cut or bunch the leather up.
Always ensure the leather is pressed hard enough down so it doesn't move, stretch, shift while cutting.

Once you get straight cuts down, try pattern and curve templates.

After you get the basics out of the way, and still have your fingertips, the rest is gravy.

[Drawingablank]

Thanks DAB. I'll definitely look into Fray Check. I've been looking around online at the same kinds of tools that you mentioned, but I think that asking around for one to borrow is what I will end up doing.

By the way, what are your thoughts on the cheaper pyrography tools, like the ones that run around $20-$50?

If you can find one with a temp control that would work - or buy an aftermarket temp control that it plugs into.

The main reason pros prefer the better units is they are more like holding a pen so you have better control. I use mine mostly for detailing feathers in bird carvings so pinpoint control is needed, for other uses such control might not be necessary.

At any rate try to find one that the tip is closer to your fingers. On many cheaper units the point is as much as 4 inches past the handle like a soldering iron making them much harder to control.

[CyanEssence]

Token: Thanks for the tips on rivets/grommets and cutting. I can't afford a setup that costs anywhere near a hundred bucks, but I will ask around my various communities and see if anyone has one that I can check out. I was thinking about using these, since it would hold the leather on, and look great. I'll also take your advice on the cutting surface and the type of razors to use. I will definitely be practicing a lot before I go for the final product. I'm planning on making a few bracelets, since the jacket I found at Goodwill has more leather than I will need for the main project. Might even make some extra bracelets for playa gifts out of it!

DAB: I was noticing the same thing about the cheaper models - that where one holds them is quite far from the point. I paint (oil or acrylic on canvas), and like using liner brushes (which are for incredibly fine detail, they have maybe 10-20 fine hairs on them, and can make a very fine line). I do this because I like fine details in my art, and this means that if I want my art to be on the leather, I need to find a tool capable of this level of detail, and as you mentioned, this would be damn near impossible while holding a tool four inches from the tip.

My next step is tracking down some Fray Check in SF. Gonna check my favorite art supply store, and a few hardware stores. I'll buy online if I can't find anything around the city. Then I'll test it on an area that will be covered by the leather. If this doesn't work, then I'll have to come up with a new idea for preventing fraying/tearing, or abandon the old jacket and find one with stronger material (I'm thinking wool pea coat or military coat).

[Drawingablank]

Token: Thanks for the tips on rivets/grommets and cutting. I can't afford a setup that costs anywhere near a hundred bucks, but I will ask around my various communities and see if anyone has one that I can check out. I was thinking about using these, since it would hold the leather on, and look great. I'll also take your advice on the cutting surface and the type of razors to use. I will definitely be practicing a lot before I go for the final product. I'm planning on making a few bracelets, since the jacket I found at Goodwill has more leather than I will need for the main project. Might even make some extra bracelets for playa gifts out of it!

DAB: I was noticing the same thing about the cheaper models - that where one holds them is quite far from the point. I paint (oil or acrylic on canvas), and like using liner brushes (which are for incredibly fine detail, they have maybe 10-20 fine hairs on them, and can make a very fine line). I do this because I like fine details in my art, and this means that if I want my art to be on the leather, I need to find a tool capable of this level of detail, and as you mentioned, this would be damn near impossible while holding a tool four inches from the tip.

My next step is tracking down some Fray Check in SF. Gonna check my favorite art supply store, and a few hardware stores. I'll buy online if I can't find anything around the city. Then I'll test it on an area that will be covered by the leather. If this doesn't work, then I'll have to come up with a new idea for preventing fraying/tearing, or abandon the old jacket and find one with stronger material (I'm thinking wool pea coat or military coat).

You can get manual rivet setters for about 3.00 at any leather supply company - just add a mallet to hit it with and a hard flat surface. If you want a double cap rivet (probably easier on your skin, add a 3.00 domed anvil.

Fray check can be found pretty much anyplace that sells fabric / sewing supplies.

[CyanEssence]

I finally got around to taking the stitching out of the leather jacket I bought at goodwill, and made some patterns on paper based on a vest that I had sitting around. I was finishing up a faur fur playa coat that I was stitching by hand, plus the day job and all that stuff had me putting it on the back burner. Before I get to work on the patch job, I am going to work on creating a leather vest. The jacket has four pockets, and I am going to keep those so that the vest will have four pockets.

Thanks again for the ideas. They inspired a completely new project.