A few comments:
Consider carefully if you really want a waterproof cover. Waterproof means no air exchange, so you will need to condition or force-ventilate the space. (We handled this with a "smoke hole" in the middle and a ceiling fan mounted to exhaust/move some air. A rainfly covers it during inclement weather). Waterproof means using non-wicking thread and then sealing all of your seams - a really tough job to do unless you put the cover on the dome to do it.
Do you have the ability to sew vinyl? It handles very differently from canvas or fabric. You will need to play with stitch-per-inch and tension settings so you have a strong joint that can flex without tearing. This can be tricksy. Just because the vinyl can stretch doesnt mean the thread on the seams will.
Vinyl is bad news for re-radiating heat. If you use any color but white, it will absorb solar rays and reradiate them in the infrared. Occupants will feel this as heat unless you use an IR-blocking liner (which presents its own set of problems).
Unless you plan to make each gore just zipper into the next, you will need an industrial, long-arm sewing machine. Expensive, but worth it. Especially for a large dome cover, a home-type machine made in the last 50 years wont work. (But an old Singer 66 might just do it).
You are building a 6V so it will be exactly a half-sphere. I can generate the gore patterns for you if you wish. PM me.
Suggest making the sides capable of being rolled-up a couple of feet during use. This gives you excellent shade and lots of airflow.
For a public structure, consider two doors. Safety and easy access are important factors to consider. How you engineer the doors is critical to the integrity of the structure. How you implement these openings on the cover is also very important.
Engineer lightning grounding into your design. A 20 foot dome needs one grounding stake. Anything larger needs at least two. A good rule of thumb is about one stake for each 40-50 feet of circumference.
Make your cover your dome anchoring system. All you need to do for the frame is prevent lateral movement with a few well-placed stakes. Use the cover to tie-down the dome. Engineer a quick-release system so in a really hard wind one person can jettison the cover in a controlled manner to the lee side.
Make the cover a little longer than the dome needs. There may be occasions where you want to roll the cover under the bottom struts. Having an extra foot of length lets this happen.
Finally: those svelte covers you see on adverts dont really exist in the real world. Ever wonder why most of those photos are done with dark, dramatic lighting, or from a distance? Yup. You got it. Even the BEST fabrics will expand and contract with heat and weather. The base circle on a 40 foot dome is a circumference of 126 feet. Assuming a 1% change from high noon to midnight (and it will likely be far greater), a cover that is snug an nice at one end will be 1.5 FEET longer (or shorter) at the other end of the temp scale. You just cant get away from this (but there are some dodges involving corsets!)
I saw your dome at flipside BTW: Great job!!! We were the 20 foot 4V in the Badlands serving bacon tamales.
