cooling your tent or van

[reggie13]

What fan are folks using for the bucket cooler these days? The most commonly linked one here from amazon is no longer in stock, and doesn't seem to be coming back anytime soon

While I'm asking questions like a noob, is there a preferred submersible pump that burners like? Seeing lots of 12V sub pumps out there. This will be my first time splicing wires as well, so any advice there would be huge.

Thanks in advance all!

this is the one i got, that Figjam suggested, and it works...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Handy-Mini-DC-1 ... 3f4f39bb21

lots of video to see how to splice wires on youtube, depends on what tools you have....soldering, splice connectors, twist with wire nuts method....

[reggie13]

Figjam,

got the cooler operational (unable to test temp due to being in the muggy swamps of Louisiana right now) but want to verify....

5 gal bucket cooler INSIDE....or OUTSIDE......for a 6 foot stretch yurt?

and 2nd, do i need an "outgoing hot air vent hole" on opposing wall from cooler?

thanks for all the help!

Reggie

[LowePro]

Circlerider, keep your wire connections out of the standing water or sufficiently waterproof the splices. The water will not remain pure, even if you were to start w/ distilled it gets dust particles immediately and will be conductive. If your only reason for keeping the cooler inside is for the on/off switch, you could just wire a switch into some extra long wire and run that wire thru the duct-hole in your yurt, to keep the on/off switch indoors but the cooler outdoors. Works for me. My on/off switch is inside but the swampie is outside.

[FIGJAM]

Figjam,

got the cooler operational (unable to test temp due to being in the muggy swamps of Louisiana right now) but want to verify....

5 gal bucket cooler INSIDE....or OUTSIDE......for a 6 foot stretch yurt?

and 2nd, do i need an "outgoing hot air vent hole" on opposing wall from cooler?

thanks for all the help!

Reggie

The bucket cooler has to be outside, with the air ducted into the space being cooled.

A vent on the opposite side of the space is vital!!!

If the air can't get out..............it can't get in!!!!!!!

[mattcamp]

So on a related note then, Unicooler... better inside or outside a yurt?

I saw in viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&start=2340#p974540 that Jyman had his on the outside, but he also said it didn't really work that well (although that might have been humidity related)

[FIGJAM]

Jymans isn't a unicooler, it's a box cooler.

In the first picture, you can see that it is not level due to the angle of the container that he used.

I didn't notice that the fist time!!!

This can create an uneven distribution of the water on the pads.

Maybe even dry areas of pad on the high side.

That cooler should have been able to cool at least 20 degrees even with the higher humidity.

If it was sitting flat, it would need something to fill the taper that the container has.

[mattcamp]

Yep,

I'm planning on doing Unicoolers though as I don't have the time to build box coolers... (and can't find any of the recommended fans for the bucket coolers in stock anywhere!)

I've been wondering about the tilt thing when looking at people building Unicoolers out of those Genuine Joe trash bins which appear to be tapered slightly... I'm assuming it's not too much of an issue if you then tilt the whole cooler correctly so that the pad inside is perfectly vertical.

Still... better inside or outside the yurt?

[FIGJAM]

Unicooler goes inside.

I've said it before that if you have a tapered container, it is fairly easy to fill the taper with foam rubber to act as a seal.

Before amazon, this is were you can get the fans!!!

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8556/ ... 6c435s1108

And a quick chart to find alternatives................

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g36/c43 ... y_CFM.html

[SourPatch]

... I've been wondering about the tilt thing when looking at people building Unicoolers out of those Genuine Joe trash bins which appear to be tapered slightly... I'm assuming it's not too much of an issue if you then tilt the whole cooler correctly so that the pad inside is perfectly vertical.
Still... better inside or outside the yurt?

I used the Genuine Joe trash bin. Although the sides are tapered, the pad inside is vertical. Only way for the pad to be tilted would be to tilt the bottom of the trash can (uneven surface, etc.).

All of these evaporative coolers (bucket, uni, box) must have an intake of dry air to work properly. You can put the cooler inside, as long as the air intake draws from outside. Where you put your cooler may affect the efficiency of it, though. You want cool wind blowing at you.

Maybe understanding the principle of evap coolers would help: dry air passes through the wet pads, water gets evaporated, and as a consequence the output air gets colder and more humid than the intake air.

[mattcamp]

Maybe understanding the principle of evap coolers would help: dry air passes through the wet pads, water gets evaporated, and as a consequence the output air gets colder and more humid than the intake air.

I understand the principles, however there have been several different versions posted in this megathread though, some with the cooler inside and some outside (unicooler or box coolers only - obviously the bucket coolers have to go outside).

I just wanted to know if anyone had any strong feelings about which way is better for the Uni/Box coolers since it seems you can actually do them either way.

Thanks for the info about the Genuine Joe!

[SourPatch]

Let me correct my previous post. My configuration allows me to have the pad vertical. The original unicooler WOULD have tilted pads if nothing is done to correct that since they are attached against the walls of the trash can. Sorry about that.

[amitrus]

A question about fans for any electrical engineering wizards out there:

I'm making several bucket coolers that will be powered using 12v DC converters. Right now, I'm using the Sanyo Denki SAN Ace 3.0 Amp 12 Volt 224 CFM fan, since the Delta fans Figjam recommends are sold out.

My problem is, when I connect this Sanyo fan in parallel to the 12v water pump, the pump starts sputtering. It can't push water up into the ring over the pad.

Here's the really weird thing: I tried switching out the Sanyo Denki fan for other high-CFM fans, including a 252CFM 12V 3.9A Delta fan. The pump runs FINE when this 3.9A Delta fan is connected! Even though that fan draws more amps (or so it says on its sticker)!

I'm using this 12V 5A adapter, which should be more than enough for the sum of the amperage of either fan + the pump.

Any idea what gives here?? I really would like to use those Sanyo fans because they are cheap and available. But I don't want to package each bucket cooler with two DC converters (one for the fan, and one for the pump).

[JohnEBGud]

Figjam's recommended Delta AFB1212SHE-CF00 (DC Fan Axial Ball Bearing 12V 6V to 13.8V 190.48CFM 55.5dB (120 X 120 X 38mm) ) is available here and in stock
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/delta-p ... p=44522398

[The CO]

**Update**

After using crappy pads for a while, I just began making a new FCooler using DuraCool pads.

Problem: dry, the pad tube fits wonderfully well.
But when it gets wet, the pad compresses and doesn't reach the top of the bucket, preventing the seal needed.

Is this a new issue? Anyone else?

Co, I had the same issue with the pad slouching when wet. The pad seems to have a grain to it and it likes to compress in one direction more than the other. I solved it by wrapping the pad in a cylinder of small chicken wire. It adds structure and stability, keeps the pad upright.

The 'grain' was very much the issue. I cut a new pad on the other axis, and have not had the compression issue or needed chickenwire.

Now this weekend I'm making like 6 of these for camp mates at M*A*S*H. Designation FC-15. Figjam, I think I owe you a couple royalty payments. Come to M*A*S*H 4207th this year at 245 Carnie to collect.

[Canoe]

A question about fans for any electrical engineering wizards out there:
... Sanyo Denki SAN Ace 3.0 Amp 12 Volt
... the pump
... 252CFM 12V 3.9A Delta fan
... this 12V 5A adapter
... which should be more than enough for the sum of the amperage of either fan + the pump. ...

With 5A available from the adapter and fans drawing 3.0A or 3.9A, and a 4.2W pump that should be drawing 0.35A from 12 VDC, you should be good. So we need to know some more about what's going on. I don't know how much you know, so I need to know that the pump and fan are actually wired in parallel, not in series by mistake. If they are confirmed in parallel (post a photo if you're not completely sure), then I need you to measure the voltage of the 12 VDC adapter plugged in:

• with nothing connected to it,
• only the pump connected and running,
• only the 3.0A fan connected and running,
• only the 3.9A fan connected and running
• the pump and 3.0A fan connected and running, and finally,
• the pump and 3.9A fan connected and running.

Have fun!

[barasingha]

I may have found the perfect container for the unicoolers, but it's a treasure hunt.

You'll have to find some place or somebody that is recycling a travel trailer.

The fresh water tank in a lot of them is 10"s deep x 2' wide x up to 6' long.

You can cut one end off to around 30"s and have a waterproof box that has no taper.

My camera battery is recharging, so pics later!!!

Good morning everyone,

Big thanks to you FIGJAM for the evap cooler designs...

First burn for me, and going all in with H12 hexayurt + unicooler; I'm not handy enough to build a box as described in the original design, and I am kind of worried that the trash can unicooler won't be air tight by the wall of my yurt (b/c of the lip / tapered side...). So was happy to see your post for the "perfect" container.

I found this on ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-Gallon-RV-Fr ... f6&vxp=mtr

Pb, it's $20 more that the Genuine Joe...
So are the tapered side / lip an issue in a hexayurt ? Has anyone found something else w/out tapered sides ?

Cheers,

Barasingha

[mattcamp]

With the Unicooler (specifically the one built from a plywood box) is the EB fan only attached to the box using silicon sealant?

Any particular brand or type that I should use to ensure it's a strong enough hold?

[FIGJAM]

100% clear silicone.

I cut a circle for the fan which meant I could put a big dob of silicone on each corner, then silicone all around the edge to seal.

I built a box cooler for the "More Carrot" veggie yurt and they a had rigid bike trailer to haul it to their camp.

All the bumping caused the fan to come loose.

This has never happened to any other cooler.

I've started adding 2 little L brackets under the fan as added support!!!

[Wigwam]

Again, huge thanks to Figjam!! Just completed the original design fan. I used the solar water pump and although the fan showed as sold out, got this one for a couple of dollars extra.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8547/ ... 6c435s1108

Everything works like a charm. I used silicone on the duct work as well and may think about reenforcing it too!!

I use the Springbar canvas tent, so I want to make sure to vent and let the interior dry out before storing it.

[sleepnosleep]

So... Decided I'm going to do a box cooler for the lotus belle. A few questions...

1) I'm going to go the wood/roofing approach. Can I just use 1/2 plywood? Or is there a preferred wood?

2) what are people's thoughts on the best box cooler pump these days? I'm seeing a lot of 12v bilge pump options for less than $40 but don't want something that's going to crap out on me.

3) I'd like to go the marine battery + solar panel route... Any fingers in the right direction in terms of learning more about this?

Thanks!

[FIGJAM]

I used the cheapest 1/2" plywood I could buy.

You could use marine plywood.

Once you get it together and coated with the roof coating, get a can of epoxy spray paint, and coat the inside heavily.

I had some swelling one year that created a small leak, but a tube of Goop smeared on the seams saved me.

Bring some "just in case", but you probably won't need it.

Get a few of these.

One should be enough, but they're cheap and it's good to have a back up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Quiet-Min ... 3cd9bd0e15

That one ships from china.

If you need one quicker...........

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-quiet-DC1 ... 1207478304

[sleepnosleep]

Thanks again for the quick response! To be clear, the box cooler goes 'outside', correct? If so, since the walls of my tent are curved, could I run ducting from the endless breeze into a tent window (sealed around)?

[FIGJAM]

Yes.

[pug]

Can't seem to find an existing post asking this (but I bet it's around)...

Does the pad really have to go all the way to the bottom of the bucket? Doesn't it just have to cover the holes like shown? Seems like this should work, as it's just the air coming in the holes and going through the pad that counts. Ergo just put pad over the holes.

I suppose there could be a bit of wicking of water up from the bucket if it goes all the way down, but that seems pretty unnecessary given one's got a pump soaking that thing all the time.



I'm about to make a second cooler, and the pad is hard to get. I'm wondering if I can't just cut the existing pad in half, and set it up as shown on the two coolers.

Thoughts?

[LowePro]

Pugsly,
yes that would work as long as you have something to hold the pad up, but if you plan to run the cooler for 2 or 3 or 4 hours, the water gets evaporated and the water level drops significantly. If the water level drops below the level of your reduced blue-pad, then the cooling effect is lost. The incoming air would just find the path of least resistance--down and under instead of thru the blue pad.
While I'm napping or recovering in my structure, the bucket frequently gets down to just 2 to 3 inches of water. Not sure how much blue pad it would save to trim that much off. Then with the additional time and expense of finding something to perch the blue pad partially up in the bucket....it doesn't seem worth it. Got my pad on that big rainforest website. Not too expensive and ships pretty quick. Search Duracool Pad.

[pug]

Pugsly,
If the water level drops below the level of your reduced blue-pad, then the cooling effect is lost. The incoming air would just find the path of least resistance--down and under instead of thru the blue pad.

Not if you seal it to the sides of the bucket with (for example) a compression ring. As you mention about air leaks, it's all about just making the air go through the wet mesh.

[FIGJAM]

I see your pad shifting or pressing against the holes in the bucket and creating a leaking problem.

Part of having the pad go clear to the bottom is that it centers the pad so that the holes are 1/4" away from the pad to prevent leaks.

[pug]

I see your pad shifting or pressing against the holes in the bucket and creating a leaking problem.
Part of having the pad go clear to the bottom is that it centers the pad so that the holes are 1/4" away from the pad to prevent leaks.

So if I could keep it clear of the holes with some kind of crafty spacers...



I'll probably just give it a shot. I had a successful run with my existing cooler last year so I've got a good example of what works (to know if what I do doesn't work).

[FIGJAM]

It will work, but something I've noticed is that the lower the water level, the more wet pad is exposed, the better it works.

When I first fill my bucket for the day, I have about the same exposed pad as your diagram and it works fine.

As the water evaporates, it gets even better.

[pug]

It will work, but something I've noticed is that the lower the water level, the more wet pad is exposed, the better it works.

When I first fill my bucket for the day, I have about the same exposed pad as your diagram and it works fine.

As the water evaporates, it gets even better.

Makes sense! More wet surface area for the air to move through.