PVC based shade structure over 10X14 Kodiak tent advice

[silvergirl70]

I apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I did multiple searches on the subject and found suggestions, but no true response if someone had practical success. I want to build a PVC based shade structure over my tent for shade.

I have a 10X14 Kodiak tent. For the past 2 years, I have worked some night shifts with ESD and needed to get some daytime shut-eye, and the tent was a daytime oven. I tried draping aluminet over it without any demonstrable change in temp, and I'm not doing that lipstick on a pig again. Ha.

I live in the Midwest and my Kodiak tent is in storage in CA, so I can't set it up to test it. I researched online and found that the tent is about 6'6" height (let's just assume 7'). I can get to CA early and buy and cut all my raw materials and possibly set everything up in a park, but time pre-event is scarce.

I've read about monkey huts, galaxy huts, carports, tensegrity structures. The latter is out because of the way the tent takes up space. I could do a carport, but they are awfully heavy with all the metal poles.

The issue with the 'standard' (no saw) monkey hut is that the radius of the hut with the 20' spines won't clear my tent. I need something with enough space so that I can orient the tent so that the 14' wall is parallel to the long axis of the structure. I need at least something 12' wide or wider so that I can get in the front door of my tent without hitting the aluminet every time I get in it.

It seems that the Galaxy hut is a modified version of the monkey hut with a flatter roof that would more predictably clear the tent. I found this post
http://galaxybeing.com/galaxyhut/
where the dimensions seem favorable except the struts (seen in one of the pics before the tarp goes up) might block my tent footprint just enough to not make room for the front door. Then again, those struts are in some non-usable space under the curved side, so maybe it will work. (BTW, would modify this design to just lash down a support spine on the top with 2x 8' pipes joined by 2' sleeve, tied down with inner tubes.). Would also ratchet down N and S ends with webbing.

Alternatively, I need to do the math (πr = half circumference of circle..Or formula for ellipse, which is closer to galaxy hut) to create a modified monkey hut which will clear the edges of my tent at all points in the circle and provide a large enough radius for me to enter and exit the tent. Does anyone have experience with monkey huts with 24' spines (3x8' joined) 30' spines (3x10' joined) that clear a 10x14' Kodiak tent for practical use?

Another idea I saw (Macguyver posted an idea in 2014, but I didn't see if he tried it) was to create two approximate 25' pvc spines bent over at right angles to create an X frame over the tent to support aluminet. I have to do the math on this one, and still figuring out if it will clear the tent completely, and how to guy it down.

Again, if anyone has come across this scenario in actual practice with success, please let me know. I'm driving a cargo van from LA, and want to try to limit poles to 8', although I think I can fit 10' in there. I am staying in the tent with my friend, and really don't want to buy another smaller tent or tents. Love the 10x14' Kodiak, except for the sleep heat. I know I can make this shade work.

Thank you! Sorry for being long winded.

[lucky420]

ive got a 10x14 kodiak this year and am planning to put it under my monkey hut. the monkey hut i inherited several years ago had leg extensions on them. I took the extensions off but i think i saved them. i was also thinking of moving the rib walls in towards each other a bit and that would make the over all hut taller.

i will be pulling the monkey hut stuff, kodiak out soon to see how to make this all fit (closer to the end of this month or early May)

i'll keep ya posted

[some seeing eye]

I have done tensegrity with Aluminet and monkey hut with 20' 3/4 PVC and silver tarps.

The tensegrity can be made any dimension. The lumber I used can be picked up close to the event as can the PVC. I'm a fan of 20' full lengths of PVC which can be carried on a roof rack. I think even had some 20's bent over a rented sedan attached to the front and rear bumpers. With a little research full length PVC might be able to be donated locally after. I buried mine for water and electric in my yard after. Full length lumber should be able to be donated.

I have a roof rack which I just buy adaptors for the specific rental / shared vehicle - it helps with transporting the long members of the shade structures.

The Kodiak is a grand tent and deserves an elegant shade structure.

You can lift a monkey hut off the ground with sections of larger size nested PVC. Or you can make the hut wider by a nested section bridging the top. The challenge is that the bow wants to push out at the joint. So run a much more rigid lengthwise strut you pull down to the ground or pull/push in from both sides. You can make a scale cutout of your tent and use a scaled piece of springy material to test the dimensions of your arch.

The way I made my tensegrity is to get 2x3 or 2x4 lumber of the height needed. I put one 16d nail or a 4" drywall screw into the 2x3 face the top, one put one or two out the side 3" from the top and one or two near the bottom out the side. The nail or screws should project out about 2". I set up the 4 corners with rebar using the lower nail to keep the post from lifting and the upper nails from keeping the rope from slipping up or down. Rope with an adjustable tension knot crosses over the top of the posts in a square and an x, then down to the ground stakes. Then I put grommetted Aluminet over it. Aluminet comes in 7, 14 and 21' widths. I had two pieces to make a double layer over the top and a single layer on 3 sides.

You could also do a pipe shade house with sides of this style: https://www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com/S ... es_PST.htm. Black Rock Hardware has a lighter version that I have not tested.

[silvergirl70]

ive got a 10x14 kodiak this year and am planning to put it under my monkey hut. the monkey hut i inherited several years ago had leg extensions on them. I took the extensions off but i think i saved them. i was also thinking of moving the rib walls in towards each other a bit and that would make the over all hut taller.

i will be pulling the monkey hut stuff, kodiak out soon to see how to make this all fit (closer to the end of this month or early May)

i'll keep ya posted

I'm very curious how the leg extensions fit in the picture...Are they bolted on? That may work, although I need at least 12' width to put the tent sideways and get in the front door. Seeing as you have the same setup, I am waiting with bated breath (truly!!!)

I'm flying to CA in mid May for a variety of things but hoping to buy and cut raw materials at that time so that structure is ready to go in Aug when I get back.

[silvergirl70]

The way I made my tensegrity is to get 2x3 or 2x4 lumber of the height needed. I put one 16d nail or a 4" drywall screw into the 2x3 face the top, one put one or two out the side 3" from the top and one or two near the bottom out the side. The nail or screws should project out about 2". I set up the 4 corners with rebar using the lower nail to keep the post from lifting and the upper nails from keeping the rope from slipping up or down. Rope with an adjustable tension knot crosses over the top of the posts in a square and an x, then down to the ground stakes. Then I put grommetted Aluminet over it. Aluminet comes in 7, 14 and 21' widths. I had two pieces to make a double layer over the top and a single layer on 3 sides.

You could also do a pipe shade house with sides of this style: https://www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com/S ... es_PST.htm. Black Rock Hardware has a lighter version that I have not tested.

Don't the support members of the tensegrity angle centrally at the bottom? It just increases the height of the support members that I need, I guess. I also am looking for non-noon shade, and the lack of side blockage is a factor which increases size as well. The long guylines for support may not work for my camp location (this year TBD depending on my friends going to event). I'm leery of the calculations with the tensegrity..Or screwing it up. That being said it is a beautiful thing. I could see all the PVC whistling a tune on top of the roof all the way to Reno from LA. Haha.

[silvergirl70]

I trolled some more and found this post from 2016 titled "Monkey Hut Frame Help". The pictures are awesome. I would likely use the same sized pipe for the whole rib and avoid the duct tape stop, only as I've read not so fun stories.

The magic number is 24. That's how long your ribs should be on your monkey hut to enclose a 10x10 Kodiak tent. I'm attaching a group of photos to show the tent under a 26 ft rib, a 25 ft rib and a 24 foot rib. I've set the stakes for the ribs 4 feet from the tent door and one foot from the rear of the tent. So the spread is 15 feet. I used 2 1.25 inch pipes, and one 1inch pipe between them. I cut the 1.25 inch pipes down from 9 feet to 8.5 and then to 8 feet. The 1 inch pipe is ten feet long with a bunch of duct tape wrapped around it one foot from each end to act as a stop. So the 1 inch pipe is inserted one foot into each 1.25 inch pipe.

While it's nice to have extra headroom in your shade, the taller your shade, the more likely the wind will knock it over. A smaller structure is also a good bit more rigid. I originally thought I needed a 25 foot rib, but I feel comfortable that 24 feet will work just fine. In the worst case you will have to move the tent within the monkey hut to keep it from bumping the side. But I think the layout I tried will work just fine and give you plenty of room by the tent door.

I've set up a 20 ft ribbed monkey hut many times and it was always rock solid. I think 24 will work fine.
JR

Again, found this on a 2016 post titled "Monkey Hut Frame Help" and cut and pasted it here. Didn't see this before. I'll try to patch over Hooker's pictures as well. The tent shown is a 10x10' Kodiak placed sideways, which is how my tent will be...Just 14' on the long axis.

26 foot rib.JPG

25 foot rib.JPG

24 Foot Rib.JPG

[some seeing eye]

Don't the support members of the tensegrity angle centrally at the bottom?

My tensegrity cube had the posts plumb, not at an angle. Like the shade house.

[burner von braun]

Good on ya silvergirl70 for researching and tapping into eplaya's vast reservoir of prior info. A lot of people don't even bother to make the effort, preferring to be spoon-fed instead. Bravo!

[EGAZ]

I'll echo BVB. Doing what needs to be done. You go girl!

[silvergirl70]

Thanks all for input. The card catalog that is eplaya is somewhat shuffled. I prefer to be a sponge.
I honestly think the monkey hut variation ( with longer legs) is the way to go, even tho the beauty of the tensegrity structures fascinate me. (I have a beach shelter I bought from a company based out of Israel that uses spandex and guylines with sandbags and two poles...Love the portability, but the design doesn't carry over well to force winds on the playa and for my tent shade). I've been lucky the past 2 yrs on the playa, no rain. I like the idea of monkey hut curved roof as well for this reason and the somewhat idiot proof expandability of the structure.. to give hang out shade adjacent to the tent.

For shits and giggles, went to Costco today and took a bunch of pictures of their carport, as a failsafe. I wonder what they think I was up to...I was under the struts, measuring the size of the holes on the bottom, and pulling on the tarp ties. Its over 160 lbs!! Gaaaa. And that's with crappy 'desert' tarp fabric that feels no better than the blue tarps. One would have to sew/tape on reinforcements on all the edges of the side walls to tack them down, or at least add more Velcro ties around the poles . And it would make a lot of noise in the wind. The tent would barely fit in the middle, and the door would have to face north or west for benefit...Likely getting a shitload of dust blown in.
But....One could build something similar out of PVC and connector brackets, and guy the 4 corners down. Hmmm. More trolling is in order. I really just don't want to do the metal poles. Likely I'll be moving this in and out of a storage unit myself or with help of one other person. Monkey hut still wins.

I have also been looking at various structures that people have built with PVC angled at different directions from a central point, as well as delta shade structures which look cool and are modular as well...But lack that AM shade I'm looking for.

I fucking love the internet.

[BBadger]

The canopy on those carports isn't perfect, especially how it degrades in the sun from UV. However, if you keep it out of the sun the remainder of the year it'll last a lot longer. It's probably a far stretch for many people because they might only get the carport for BM itself.

For myself, I use the parts of a carport and make a clamshell-type structure (this shape but with all sides covered except the ends. It is basically a metal monkeyhut that doesn't flex. What's nice is that I can use a single large tarp like on a monkey hut instead of the canopy on the carport. I used parts from King Canopy, but only because I could have it shipped here, and the pipes are generally interchangeable for a symmetric appearance. The pipes don't interlock either.

The main reason for the clamshell carport monkeyhut is that the 6-ft pipes fit inside my car. PVC pipes are too long at 10ft.

A plain carport shape is nice too because it's tall and provides a secluded space. It's not as personal, but it can be nice being isolated too.

[silvergirl70]

I also found this post from ZigZag in Monkey Hut Questions. Almost as exciting....A PICTURE of what looks like a Kodiak tent (? 10x10' or 10X14' ???? INSIDE the hut. Fabulous. The diameter of her ribs/spines seems small though. 3/4"? Hmmm.
The comment regarding shade material is relavent to Badger's carport comment.

Best covering material in my limited opinion is radiant attic foil. Super light, super strong, super reflective. It comes in 60" rolls and though its perforated (to let moisture through in an attic application" rain does not get through. You have to do a little prep by taping 5' strips together using 6" nylon tape on the inside and mylar reflective tape on the outside, and I ran a strip of the 6" nylon tape around the perimeter. Add some snap in grommets and its good to go.

Mine was 24'x25' for a monkey hut footprint of 15'x25' The PVC hoops were two 10' and one 4' 1/2" PVCs connected by a 2' 3/4" sleeves in the middle over 24" rebar stakes. I used tape on the 1/2" tubes so the connectors stayed in place. T and X connectors are expensive and a pain in the butt because they would shatter and it was too much assembly so I dumped that idea. The spine was two 10' and one 5' 1/2" PVCs, again connected with 2' 3/4" sleeves and bungeed to the ribs.

I had two ratchet tie downs on the ends of a rope that tied the ribs in place and rebar candy canes all around through this year I am switching to lag screws, I am so over rebar.

I got a piece of really cheap carpet (like 20 cents a sq/foot) at Menards that did not have a backing (backings are moopy when they dry out) and staked it down with tent stakes. I parked my van at one end to cut down the draft and to give me access to stuff stored inside. Ratty would come over and we'd hang out in the front area and watch the parade go by!

The whole rig performed wonderfully, it flexed with the wind, no breaks, no tears and my Kodiak tent underneath was cool most of the morning. Just walking under the hut you could feel a 5-10 degree temperature drop. The radiant attic foil rolled up easily for transport and probably doesn't weigh more than 15 pounds.

Whole cost of the monkey hut (excluding the test runs) was around 300 bucks.

[EGAZ]

Yep. ZigZag rocked it last year. We prepped our birgin burn together all summer long.

[ZigZag]

My goodness, I have been away from e-playa for a while. Sorry I didn't reply sooner.

My MH was designed for a 10x10 Kodiak not the 10x14. That said, the 10x14 could fit in sideways but that might make the door a little awkward, but not impossible. I actually originally was going to go sideways and tried it in my prototypes of the framework so I know its not an issue of the tent fitting. Its just it leaves you with only 2 1/2 feet of free space at the base.

The shape of the roof of the tent plays a role here. With the tent door oriented towards the end of the MH the "wing" created by the springbar sort of forced me to center the tent. However, turned so the door faces the side of the MH, you might be able to move the back of the tent closer to the side of the MH (though be sure to leave some space for ventilation).

A picture is worth a thousand words, so here are two pix from my first prototype. They show what I am talking about. I later changed the way I connected the PVC pipe so ignore that, but the length of the ribs did not change. Once the cover was on it, it did flatten a little.

Hope this helps.

I too am from the midwest living near Minneapolis. Can't wait to get back to the dust again! Any more questions, let me know, I will try and be more diligent on eplaya.

0501161412-edit.jpg

0501161412a-edit.jpg

[silvergirl70]

Thank you ZigZag! Your prototype pics are very helpful! Actually am out in CA next week to build the prototype so that we can get it into storage ready to go prior to the event. Using Aluminet (25x24 ft) 80% for the cover, and I got a whole bunch of used bicycle inner tubes cheap for strapping the spine on the ribs. Will get the PVC, duct tape, and rebar when I get out there.
I think we're going to make a 78ft rope (15'x2+ 24'x2) around the periphery with clearly marked points on the rope where we are going to put the rebar to save time on the playa; just need to square the corners there.
The tent orientation I think is going to have to be sideways with the 14' Kodiak, only as the curved roof won't clear the top sides of the tent otherwise.
Instead of digging the tent out of storage, may just make a pole 6'9" tall and walk it across to see how much usable space I have on either side of the tent.

[ZigZag]

In the end I used bungie balls to strap the spine to the ribs, but inner tubes will work just fine. I totally backed away from using X and T PVC connectors once I had a couple shatter on me, they are useless.

I like the idea of the perimeter rope to mark the locations of the rebar for the ribs!! I really struggled with all that measuring on playa and it took way too much time. One problem I did have was trying to figure out how to square the array. I tired using a diagonal rope when marking it out and it helped but it was still off so my base was somewhat trapezoidal. It really didn't matter much in the end but it was driving me crazy and cost me a bunch of time. If you come up with an easy way to square it, let me know.

Aluminet is good stuff and it lets a lot of air through. One thing I liked about the Attic foil though was that it worked to block the wind and gave me a respite from it. Last year it didn't rain but the foil would have protected everything from that if it had. The foil was a lot cheaper too, though I had to build the cover (the material comes in a 5 foot roll) and put in the grommets which was labor intensive (pre-playa).

Good luck on your pre-build! Consider using the tie down ropes that ran from rebar- to rebar within the PVC rib. I only did that in every other rib (4 of 7) but it really contributed to the overall stability of the structure. It was the a great technique even though it was not visible.

[silvergirl70]

Aack. Don't know how this posted twice. With autospell typos to boot. Sorry!

ZigZag, thanks again for the tips!
I just got back from trip to CA (my friend with whom I attend the event is in LA, and all stuff is there) to work on pre-event stuff. Was covered in playa dust from last year's boxes, and got a few blisters from using the PVC cutter (but a godsend over ruining another circular saw blade).

Biggest impediment: we could not find an open space in LA county big enough to bang in all the rebar and set up the hut without worrying about police approaching us. Ha. (Illegal to erect tents, likely a homeless deterrent). Apparently no one we know had flat greenspace in their backyard that was at least 15'X24'.

We finally found a park near Pasadena where we were not in view from the road (i.e. 'The fuzz') and had enough time to at least put up the ribs for testing. We weren't able to drive the rebar in all the way presumably due to either rocks or roots, but got enough in for functionality. For some reason, eplaya is not letting me upload a pic.

A few things: we have a 24' length to the structure. There are 6 ribs total, a little over 5' apart. For stability, we are using two spines, lashed to the arced ribs with inner tubes at ~2'o-clock and ~10'oclock position. Aluminet 80% will cover the structure, and I notice that the 24'X 25' piece that I ordered lost a little in length with the taping and grommeting. No big deal. Unfortunately finding all my ball bungees in storage would've meant about 4 hrs of digging thru boxes, so we didn't have the chance to connect the aluminet. I'm still working on how to ultimately tie this down to the playa. I threaded Paracord through the 24' sides before putting it back into storage to save time later.

Also, made a perimeter rope marked off with colored sharpie where the rebar will go in the playa. How to make the edges square? Honestly, will probably just use a box there to estimate it. Can do a quick diagonal corner measurement (a squared plus b squared = c squared) to make sure that we are close. The rope is daisy chained to prevent knots and ready to lay down on playa. I think this will be a big time saver.

So our design is the following:
6 ribs of 25' total length 1" PVC. Each rib is 2x8' pieces and 1x9' piece with a 2'x 1.25" connector sleeve. I duct taped the PVC at 1' so the connector pieces wouldn't slide.
2 spines at 2 and 10 o'clock position, 25' long. Tied to ribs with inner tube. Spines are 1" 9 ft pieces with 7 ft piece. Also connected with 2' 1.25" connector sleeve.
12 pieces of 2' rebar for the PVC, driven 1' down. We just don't have the battery power for an impact driver and lag screws.

Footprint: 15' X 24'. If we need to take length off for space issues, will place the ribs closer together and have aluminet hanging off edge.

Aluminet is 25' over the ribs, and 24' long., 80%. Expensive, but worth it. I liked the attic foil idea, but I didnt have the time to tape and grommet it. Will ball bungee aluminet to the end openings and tie down with tent stakes to the playa next to the base.

Although we didn't get to set up the 10x14' Kodiak, we measured the height of the arc and it will work
With the tent turned sideways.

The funny thing about all this is that the camp I'm with this year is cramped for space..and they may not be able to give me 15' of width. Won't know until we get there. Well. As long as I have shade over my tent (be it aluminet draped over us between 2 RV's) I don't care. I am prepared for contingencies with the aluminet either way.

[burner von braun]

How to make the edges square? Honestly, will probably just use a box there to estimate it. Can do a quick diagonal corner measurement (a squared plus b squared = c squared) to make sure that we are close.

Pythagoras was a cool dude and all, but in this case all that is necessary is to make sure that the full length of your diagonals from one corner across to the diametrically opposite corner are equal and your structure becomes inherently square. A simple string is all you'll need. First, get oriented and then drive in two stakes that will be the end corners of one side of your structure at the proper distance apart using your marked rope, and then lightly adjust the position of the remaining two corner stakes using your marked rope to measure distance, and a string (or tape measure) to ensure that the diagonals become equidistant and then hammer away. At that point you have your four square end corners and you're on your way. I've not built a monkey hut per se, but I've both utilized, as well as seen this technique utilized, on a number of permanent barns and such, when a transit isn't otherwise required. It works quite well.

(and double posts happen, we've all done it, eplaya can sometimes be twitchy that way)

[burner von braun]

(and double posts happen, we've all done it, eplaya can sometimes be twitchy that way)

That is to say, it is a fairly common occurrence. I'm guessing it may be related to the user inadvertently double-clicking when they hit 'Submit' in order to post, when only a single click is called for. Perhaps this, coupled with a bit of lag time mixed in as well might be the culprit, but I'm not sure; I've never seen it discussed here.

[silvergirl70]

BVB: probably a little of both. Computers only do what we tell them to, no?

[ZigZag]

Thanks for the update. Glad your prebuild was a success.

[silvergirl70]

2dc8444c-fe84-4c7c-9f7b-c888e49eb59d.jpg

Ok. So after all that, received word today about likely very limited real estate space at camp (what is it with these CA people and their real estate prices? Haha). The camp is willing to trade Esplanade placement for space. I've been messing around in the backyard with another idea to reduce the footprint of the hut closer to the tent. Would put two (or three) of these X's in a row (may overlap them a-la Venn Diagram style) and still use my pre-made spines (2) to stabilize the sides, in the same manner as the monkey hut....all joints secured with inner tubes...all would be tied down to the playa/rebar with icicle hitch or nailed down.
I could put up the tent to allow egress out the main door...between an area in the 'x' (that area not covered with aluminet)...while securing the aluminet to the PVC frame. It wouldn't be as custom smooth fit for the aluminet as the monkey hut, but still allow airflow underneath and the aluminet wouldn't just 'drape' on the tent (I've called this 'lipstick on a pig'..did nothing for me last year..ok...maybe reduced inside AM heat from 120 degrees to 119 degrees).
The pic here shows 20' ribs in an X....just messing around in the back yard with some cheap PVC (used a plastic bag to tie it up, not my final plan). What I already have made in CA is 25' ribs. Anyone try something like this before? Any suggestions?
I'm going to Lakes of Fire next week, so may try to mess around with it there. Obviously not playa conditions, but I've got too many rocks in my ground at home to drive rebar.

[silvergirl70]

Ooh. And another little hack I found works nicely. I had laying around 3/4" PVC for ribs, but for the sleeve connectors I only had 1.5' PVC around. It would take a mound of duct tape to make a stop on the 3/4" pipe. So... I cut up a strip off a neoprene coozie (thin one to go around beer bottle) and covered that with duct tape. It was slightly compressible, but snug, and took a little effort to get apart.

[silvergirl70]

IMG_20170605_213959.jpg

Found this photo online which kind of details out my idea of crossing the X's. If too much crossover, I wouldn't be able to have a wide enough opening to get out of the tent (tent door meant to go between the x somewhere).

The idea is to narrow up the footprint without losing height, but be able to get out of the tent.

[homo ardentum]

Good luck with your project! Those costco carports are practically bombproof but probably overkill for your needs. I've seen similar setups to what you've posted and a lot were massive fails after only a moderate windstorm in 2015. You should take a look at this site. This type of structure will hold up well and you can custom design it to fit your needs. You can get different shade cloth too.

Shade structure

I've gotten fittings here: http://www.canopymart.com/canopy-fitting-selection.html

Best of luck!

[lucky420]

I've decided that instead of modifying my monkey hut to fit the kodiak, I will use the figjam cooler if it gets to hot. Im an early riser and rarely take inside naps while at the burn.

[JohnEBGud]

I've decided that instead of modifying my monkey hut to fit the kodiak, I will use the figjam cooler if it gets to hot. Im an early riser and rarely take inside naps while at the burn.

I've used a figjam cooler with my unshaded Kodiak 10x10 the past two burns. It does not push enough air through the tent once the sun is up to cool it at all, but you can direct the airflow on you for some relief taking a nap.

[lucky420]

I've decided that instead of modifying my monkey hut to fit the kodiak, I will use the figjam cooler if it gets to hot. Im an early riser and rarely take inside naps while at the burn.

I've used a figjam cooler with my unshaded Kodiak 10x10 the past two burns. It does not push enough air through the tent once the sun is up to cool it at all, but you can direct the airflow on you for some relief taking a nap.

Yeah that's what I figure, direct the air flow. I find it nicer to take an outdoors nap in the shade as opposed to being enclosed. I'm really doing this more for a tent mate, she might need it

[lucky420]

I've decided that instead of modifying my monkey hut to fit the kodiak, I will use the figjam cooler if it gets to hot. Im an early riser and rarely take inside naps while at the burn.

I've used a figjam cooler with my unshaded Kodiak 10x10 the past two burns. It does not push enough air through the tent once the sun is up to cool it at all, but you can direct the airflow on you for some relief taking a nap.

Yeah that's what I figure, direct the air flow. I find it nicer to take an outdoors nap in the shade as opposed to being enclosed. I'm really doing this more for a tent mate, she might need it

I used the figjam last year in my yurt (h12 with 6ft walls) it was definetly only good for directing and being right up on it (again for a campmate). But the failing was mine on that in the building of the figjam. This year I had a really good one with a strong fan gifted to me...

[silvergirl70]

I hear the swamp coolers work better in the yurts. I don't have a good power source for one (marine battery or generator).
We had this somewhat anemic fan last year that offered no respite except to blow hot air from point A to B. I think reducing the in-tent heat with shade will still be helpful.