cooling your tent or van

[Matt-ish]

That's a nice build EGAZ, it must perform well with that media type and being double stacked. I could fit another layer around mine, and I already have the second pad cut to size, but I'm going to try it as is first

I went ahead and pulled the top end apart again and drilled the new holes, as expected the pump can run slower with the same coverage. I was trying to be lazy and not pull it apart again, but it was for the best.

Sadly due to moving house I won't make it to the playa this year, so next year will have to be my first. I will however get a chance to test this out properly next week at another hot and dry location.

Thanks again

[legionvr6]

Any suggestions on a cheap hose option? I finished my bucket cooler. I just need a hose to run into the back door of my kodiak. I picked up foil dusct hose but realized that it will probably rip almost instantly

[JohnEBGud]

I'm using white plastic dryer vent hose. Has survived two burns so far. Going for three.

[legionvr6]

How's this?
https://www.mccombssupply.com/fd420zw-4 ... hlEALw_wcB

[LowePro]

What'd you use for a coupler on top of the bucket lid? There are 4" and 5" types of duct--make sure you get the right one to fit your parts. There's a more sturdy product called "semi-rigid duct", it's bendable but much more sturdy than the spring-loaded flimsy duct. The semi-rigid has worked great for my bucket cooler. Can find it in box stores and some online.

[EGAZ]

Semi rigid duct. It can be shaped as needed with your fingers. Search for 'dryer wall flange' for the connectors.

[legionvr6]

I used a plastic 4" throttle plate adapter. Thanks for the input. I skipped the semi flex hose thinking they were to stiff and would be annoying to work with. I'll take a peak at home depo when I go to return the foil one

[zedd]

Is there a premade/buyable alternative to the swamp cooler or unicooler which throws hot air outside the tent?

[Traveller in Time]

• Hand powered fan (This requires some handy user action!)

• Battery powered fan

• Generator powered fans

• Add some fine distributed water for extra cooling. (This may require some user intervention!)

• Generator powered air conditioner unit

• Bring a truckload of ice to the playa, open the cargo doors to cool your tent just outside.

[zedd]

My camp already has power (up to 2-3 amps per tent) - Does anyone have any idea of fans which blow up to 200CFM and a submersible pump which can directly be connected to AC? getting the converter seems like a very round about process.

[BBadger]

Holy shit, are you really that helpless? Fucking search Amazon or Google like anyone else would.

[legionvr6]

Just wanted to thank everyone thats given me input over the course of my build. finally calling it finished

[spacetime]

Fixing up my cooler for its third year with a new pump and such.

I used light tubing before and it wasn't very uniform on the drip I think this might have been why I had some leaks in the past.

Anyway, I'm replacing the drip tube. Is it right That the T splitter, he supposed to have a hole drilled directly into the bottom and that is the beginning of spacing?

Is it still correct that the spacing is supposed to be 3/4 of an inch?

Edit: looks like the measurements begin where the T is cut off and the tube begins? I'm confused about how to measure spacing from where the T starts.

[BBadger]

I don't think this is really a precision process here. Just drill your holes at an appropriate spacing like 1" or 3/4" or whatever. I'd probably start them in the bare tubing after the T-connector ends, and not damage the T-connector in any way with drilling.

Basically you're just spacing it out so that they all drip at relatively the same rate or so depending on how well your pump can keep pressure.

[spacetime]

Got it. Thanks. I couldn't wait for a reply, but this is what I ended up doing. 3/4" this time.

[RedFoxxx]

Hi,

I know this will be repetitive and probably annoy the Know-It-Alls... AND I have some questions. I am traveling to the burn on a few days and all my things are on a container from the east coast.

I have a 13ft soulpad (4000 ease), with a DIY inner tent (basically will be cooling half the space). I've looked at all the a/c options and am want to make a DIY swamp cooler, but would have to purchase most items in Reno and make it onsite or in Reno.

I have never made one, I am not the most technically skilled, BUT I know I can handle FigJams design - with a bit of support from the Know-it-Alls please... There are so many posts and different options of things..

What tips can you provide me to make it as simple and efficient AND cool as possible? What Fan, Pump, cooling, pad, tools, etc?

If I don't have or cannot locate the right saw to cut the bucket holes, what is the next best way to do it?

Thank you.

[Traveller in Time]

knife?

[Popeye]

The holes do not have to be round. Use a knife, easier if it is hot, and cut squares, moons or Christmas trees. No knife? Use a soldering iron.
The proven fans and pumps are listed in this thread. If you go to Amazon and look for a fan you can look under "Other customers also bought" to see what other people have bought. This may include tubing and tees. Good luck

[BBadger]

With exception to the pump, fan, and pad (all of which are listed in the first thread), most of the parts (bucket, tubing, connectors) can be had at regular stores that have hardware sections, or at a hardware store (e.g. Home Depot). The remainder can be bought on Amazon. So buy your 12V pond pump or solar pump, fan, and pad online and bring them to Reno to assemble.

Since you need to wire all this shit up, go on Amazon and purchase some Wago Lever nuts, some wire, and a wire strippers. Then you can just strip your wires and use the lever nuts to do all your wire connections without soldering.

I don't know how you're powering any of this, so buy the appropriate power sources and converters for your system.

If you want to cut holes with a drill, get a hole saw. You can buy them online or at any hardware section of a store. Or yeah, just use a knife. You can even be creative with your hole patterning if you desire.

[LowePro]

It's a moopy project.... Bits of plastic and blue pad fluff flying about. you could build everything at home except the actual bucket. The parts are pretty small; get a new bucket in Reno and you're all set. Sent you a PM too. Sharp boxcutter will cut the bucket, if done carefully.

[Traveller in Time]

Using one blade of scissors can make perfect, be it small, circular holes.

[EGAZ]

Not good for timing this time but theseHot Knives would do it too. And other art projects.

[mohnjeyers]

Hey there,
Just wanted to share my project with you all. Mine has ended up more expensive than planned, perhaps to the point that I should have just bought a used commercially built swamp cooler. Oh well, it was fun to make.

I used this trash can:
This fan:

+ 2 sheets of Dura Cool cut to size. Mounted with a grate, mostly for aesthetics.
+ clear acrylic top, w/ sealant with foam door strips/velcro.

I cut the clear acrylic, cut a square hole for the dura cool, and a round hole for the fan...

The pump I bought isn't powerful enough, so I bought a different one, and it's shipping soon... Hopefully I can get it working before TTITD!

[pterodactyl]

After reading the original posts and pages upon pages of comments new and old, I still have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with. I wish I started this project earlier, but I only have a couple of days before we need to pack the truck so I'm starting to get anxious.

Second year burner, but first year being in charge of the hexayurt (and cooling it).

Our H12 hexayurt has a rectangular hole in one of the side panels for a window AC unit. We used an AC last year (but upon plugging in realized it was out of freon), but this year we don't want to consume that much power from the camp generator so we're looking to build a swamp cooler. The plan is to just go with the 5gal bucket method.

The problem is that the hole for the AC unit is already there and we don't have the plug for it (the yurt was purchased from the original owner who no longer has it). There is one other small circular hole on another side panel at the highest possible point.

I have been reading that you could either put plastic wrap of some sort over the hole and tape/velcro it shut, or that you can use those rectangular furnace filters to have a vent.

This is probably a dumb question, but if I'm going to build a swamp cooler would I want that big hole sealed shut or would it be okay if it was open/filtered?

Second set of questions: Is there any reason not to just put the swamp cooler directly inside the yurt? Is there any efficiency loss if it's outside? If it's outside would you want to cover it in aluminet?

Questions on pump: Would either of these work? Which would be more ideal? Pump 1 or Pump 2?

As for the fan, I plan on getting this.

Lastly, questions on wiring (where I feel most lost). Assuming I can plug all of this into a regular three prong outlet (run by generator if that matters), do I simply splice an extension cord and attach the wires from both of these devices to the same extension cord? I've read about needing to convert power in some posts and I'm a little confused as to when you need to do that.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[LowePro]

You can't put the swamp cooler inside the yurt.
It doesn't work that way, not going to explain the whole physics thing again but the device HAS to sit outside the structure and cool air ducted into a hole in the wall.
You also need an exhaust-vent in the structure so your existing hole in the yurt could be used for that purpose. Go get a small piece of Rmax from home despot, cut it to fit the existing hole, and tape it in place with a flap. So you can open it or close it. There are better fans--check your message inbox

[Traveller in Time]

@pterodactyl

If your generator produces 12V DC it is an option to connect all on one extension cord.
Most likely the generator will provide some 110V AC and you will need converters.
Keep the swamp cooler in the shade and use the lower inlet in your yurt.

Hurry, you will need to test the cooler setup before hitting the road.

The idea is to be more rather then less Self Reliant. Just bring a new commercial AC unit as backup.

[EGAZ]

"If your generator produces 12V DC it is an option to connect all on one extension cord."
If you tap off of the 12VDC ports on the genny be aware they may not be 'regulated'. (Hondas are not) What this means s the voltage can go above or below 12VDC, sometimes by a lot.

There are links to all the parts here and wiring diagrams.

[Popeye]

Do NOT use 120V for this.
1. Your pumps are 12VDV, they will burn up on AC.
2. It is not a good idea to use 120VAC near water, especially if you are an amateur electrician. If you absolutely have to then at least ground fault the circuit.
3. If you can't get/use a 12V battery run 120V AC near the cooler then use a 12VDC wall wart or DC power supply to power the pumps and fan. The DC power supply/ wallwart should be rated at least 120% of the current draw of the fan and pump. It's ok to use separate power for the fan and pump, but don't tie them together.

[Token]

If Popeye's points are ever pertinent to your question on this topic ...



... please realize that YOU ARE a candidate for the Darwin Award.

This project IS way more complicated than your abilities.

[BBadger]

This is probably a dumb question, but if I'm going to build a swamp cooler would I want that big hole sealed shut or would it be okay if it was open/filtered?

Well it's your yurt, do you want it exposed to the elements? People often build yurts in order to isolate their sleeping quarters from the playa. You're going to allow dust and other shit into the yurt. If you're okay with that, by all means.

As noted above, if you need 12V from 120V get a power supply such as this (this only does 10A, but is enough for one person). Then use barrel connectors to connect it to wire in your setup. That only provides one connection but you can get splitters if you need more.