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Well, yes. But ours has more parts (looks cooler), is automated (except for adding water, charging, scooping wet dust), and makes noise so you know it's working.Token wrote:All this crazy effort to replicate this:.
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Far Out! Making it shiny is definitely a bonus!Canoe wrote:Well, yes. But ours has more parts (looks cooler), is automated (except for adding water, charging, scooping wet dust), and makes noise so you know it's working.Token wrote:All this crazy effort to replicate this:.
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I built one based on this design. Can you go into more details on your goop/bracket solution for keeping the fan and especially the grill attached? I tried JB Weld and 100% silicone and the grill detaches regularly. Right now I have the fan ratchet strapped to the outside of the trashcan with some weather stripping between it - which works well.arroyo wrote:Thank you for all the help. I've never done a project anything like this before. Heck, before this, I was afraid to even touch a car battery. I am bringing a large Soulpad 5000 tent (16 ft across, 10 ft center pole), and I plan to duct this into it with the fan on medium.
23 gal trash can (returned my genuine joe because I didn't like the walls) with 14x14 air grille. Using a float pump to stop the pump if it runs out of water. Goop and brackets support the fan and grill.
Figjam, thank you.
I tested this out this weekend in the desert and it worked MUCH better than the bucket cooler for my VW van. I still only get about a 10 degree temperature difference. Ambient temperature was about 76 with 10% humidity. The bucket cooler saw similar drops, nothing close to what I've read is possible. But at least with this design the van was cooler than simply opening all the doors and letting the wind through. Which tells me I wasn't getting enough CFM with the bucket design, even though I did the math on the fan I it should have worked - maybe there are too many leaks in the van to push all air up to the roof vent.FIGJAM wrote:World joe: get some small L brackets and small nuts and bolts.
Mount them top and bottom of the fan, then anchor to the bin.
seal with silly cone.
Definitely.dandandan wrote:... My extension cable is 4 miles long so they will give up before tracing it back to its origin...
dandandan wrote:"... My extension cable is 4 miles long so they will give up before tracing it back to its origin...
I do not have a gap. Why does air have to go thorough all the pad? I’m worried a gap will let air bypass the pad where the halo part of the hose is.Canoe wrote:Definitely.dandandan wrote:... My extension cable is 4 miles long so they will give up before tracing it back to its origin...
I can't tell from the photo; essential that there's a gap between the blue pad and the side of the bucket. Air going in the holes needs to have a path to all of the pad that is above the water level.
Shit.FIGJAM wrote:The pad needs to be tall enough that the halo acts as a seal that forces all the air to go through the pad.
The 1/4" gap exposes the most pad AND prevents leaking.
Its because the holes are too big , though the flow works perfectly when angled slighly away from the t connector. I'm going to try to create a 1/4" sealant right above the top holes. That will give me enough gap and allow me to ajust the halo angle as well without any need to change out my current pad or halo ring.FIGJAM wrote:Halo holes slightly to big, or the pump is a little small, or the halo T may need to be reamed a little because it's restricting flow.
You're fine, it just needs a little tweeking.