Utilikiltarians- Anybody DYED one before?
Utilikiltarians- Anybody DYED one before?
Finally, the world will see my corrugated shins....but I'll have to dye a "natural white" Workman's model, to get the shade of green that I desire.....Uncle Otto at UK HQ is getting me a test swatch, bless his heart, but meanwhile has anyone dyed theirs? My intent is to go with the Rit Dye Stovetop Method.
Howdy From Kalamazoo
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Rian Jackson
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Rian Jackson
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Some good quick and dirty advice here, from a goth:
http://www.darkwave.org.uk/~bob/dye.html
I used the method described here to dye an ammo belt and fatigues once. And yep, it even dyed the plastic buttons.
http://www.darkwave.org.uk/~bob/dye.html
I used the method described here to dye an ammo belt and fatigues once. And yep, it even dyed the plastic buttons.
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Rian Jackson
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Re: .
we really must meet.ronski wrote: ammo belt and fatigues
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Oh, and a couple of other points:
a) particularly on thick fabric like canvas it will take a good deal of time before all the excess dye leaches out, so wash and rinse the kilt separate from anything else until you're really really sure it's okay.
b) the dye will get into that big boiling pot that you use too, no matter how many times you wash it. So get a cheapie from the thrift store. I found that corn on the cob looks really unappetizing with a black sheen.
a) particularly on thick fabric like canvas it will take a good deal of time before all the excess dye leaches out, so wash and rinse the kilt separate from anything else until you're really really sure it's okay.
b) the dye will get into that big boiling pot that you use too, no matter how many times you wash it. So get a cheapie from the thrift store. I found that corn on the cob looks really unappetizing with a black sheen.
- RingO'Fire
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Re: Utilikiltarians- Anybody DYED one before?
Assuming that it's made of 100% cotton, you'll get better results using Procion MX Fiber-Reactive dyes. They're the industry standard for dying plant fiber (cellulose) clothing. If it appears to have some sort of starch or sizing on it, you'll want to wash it in Synthrapol detergent first, to remove the starch/sizing before dying it.robotland wrote:My intent is to go with the Rit Dye Stovetop Method.
I've done tie-dye for 11 years now, and have always had great results with Procion dyes. Procion dye works art room temperature and is considered a "cold" dying method, thus eliminating the need to simmer the fabric in a dye bath.
I buy my dyes, synthrapol, etc. from Dharma Trading Company here: http://www.dharmatrading.com. They have over 50 different colors and even have dying instructions on their web site. You can buy urea and soda ash (essential dying ingredients) at your local farmer's co-op way cheaper than you can get them at Dharma, but you'll have to buy a whole lot more at the co-op than you need to do just one kilt.
Important tip: Double the amount of dye in the dye bath, as recommended by Dharma, to really get the full, deep saturated color for whatever color you end up using.
...but it seemed like such a good idea at the time...
- theCryptofishist
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- RingO'Fire
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Good point, Fishie.
Yeah, you will probably want some kind of ventilation or respiratory protection. Some colors, like turquoise, are kinda moist n' clumpy and you won't need a respirator. However, a bunch of colors, like lavender, seafoam, baby blue, etc. are real dry, light, and powdery - like playa dust.
The dyes are chlorinated hydrocarbons, but not the really nasty carcinogenic kind. Still, it's best not to breath them in if you can avoid it.
If you're really interested in the chemistry of the dying process, Paula Burch has an excellent web page that explains everything: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/structure.shtml
Yeah, you will probably want some kind of ventilation or respiratory protection. Some colors, like turquoise, are kinda moist n' clumpy and you won't need a respirator. However, a bunch of colors, like lavender, seafoam, baby blue, etc. are real dry, light, and powdery - like playa dust.
The dyes are chlorinated hydrocarbons, but not the really nasty carcinogenic kind. Still, it's best not to breath them in if you can avoid it.
If you're really interested in the chemistry of the dying process, Paula Burch has an excellent web page that explains everything: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/structure.shtml
...but it seemed like such a good idea at the time...
- theCryptofishist
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dragonfly Jafe
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like fritted lead...I accompanied a friend who was an artist to the art lab kiln (his piece req'd 2 persons to move). I freaked out at what people where blithely using for glazes. No masks, no gloves, no ventilator. I never went back...
...Imagine what one of these would look like in UV flourescent dye?
...Imagine what one of these would look like in UV flourescent dye?
- theCryptofishist
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Dang, dang, dang. I've been careless with the poisens too and I'm likely to be cavalier if I'm just doing a little bit, but a whole cavern of people breathing that stuff.
Once again, Dori Seda.
Once again, Dori Seda.
The Lady with a Lamprey
"The powerful are exploiting people, art and ideas, and this leads to us plebes debating how to best ration ice.
Man, no wonder they always win....." Lonesomebri
"The powerful are exploiting people, art and ideas, and this leads to us plebes debating how to best ration ice.
Man, no wonder they always win....." Lonesomebri
I'm into heavy metal, myself....I used to make neon signs (lots 'o' mercury) and now make radiation shielding (lead with a cadmium chaser).....And in my off-hours I play with aluminum, although the Alzheimer's claims are so far unfounded.
Where's my tapioca? Which one of you's the mailman?
Where's my tapioca? Which one of you's the mailman?
Howdy From Kalamazoo