First attempt at a dome. Need direction.

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.
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Alpha
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Post by Alpha » Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:07 am

Skyhawk wrote:I meant a wrap more like This

ah.. ULine.. fun for all ages..
That does look cool. I assume that stuff offers UV protection as well as being pretty much 100% opaque?

My only other comment is that it's often a good idea to give your dome some ventilation. I wouldn't ULine it all the way to the ground.

robotland
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Post by robotland » Tue Oct 07, 2003 12:46 pm

Or, seal it up EXTRA TIGHT but incorporate vents and hatches into the structure that get sealed AROUND....
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Skyhawk
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Post by Skyhawk » Tue Oct 07, 2003 2:05 pm

you beat me to it, robotland. yes, just wrap something like that extra tight and plan your vents right into it.. I believe someone mentioned a contractor grade product on the covering thread. something like a piece of tape with a made in zipper that you just smooth onto the plastic and cut right through for an instant door.

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Post by Phydeau » Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:54 pm

fantasy might become reality if I can secure myself a goodly number of pieces.. and another note. any DFW area burners listening? feel like splitting the cost of a unit or bulk order?
I'm considering building my first dome and reside in Hurst, anything to cut down the cost on material would be helpful, especially considering I'll be needing extras for mistakes, damage, poor construction etc ... anything new requires 20% extra in my experience. :) I've just started researching this and am still considering what size and frequency I'll be needing, but there's still plenty of time ahead of us this early in the game. Keep us posted here, I'm sure there are others in the north texas area that might be willing to split a unit and save a little cost for other projects/supplies. [/quote]
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Skyhawk
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Post by Skyhawk » Thu Oct 09, 2003 10:07 am

ok, as I type, Im also checking out a place called Elliot Electric Supply. they have plenty of locations all across texas. this afternoon Im going to try to get over to the arlington branch and check it out. internet is fine and dandy, but you have to Really know what your doing. in this kind of situation, im not going to buy something Ive never seen. phydeau~ might be able to split a "carton" of a hundred pieces for a startlingly low price. if Im looking over this right, Home Depot is Really cheating people..

here is the home site: http://www.elliottelectric.com/1051/index.asp
and here is the listing for the arlington store:http://www.elliottelectric.com/StoreInf ... p?store=12

try a search for EMT conduit

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zen_greg
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Post by zen_greg » Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:53 am

Skyhawk wrote:if Im looking over this right, Home Depot is Really cheating people..
I think you might not be looking it over right. The price "per hundred" is likely referring to 100 ft. (i.e. ten sticks). The prices appear to be a little lower than Home Depot but not a real steal. Three years ago, my wife was buying 1/2" EMT for $.80 a stick from the local electrical supply in Iowa, but hey, it's Iowa. Here in Chicago, I've just been sucking it up and paying the home improvement store prices. Your links have inspired me to look around for a cheaper source, however. Thanks.

robotland
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you conduit if you try

Post by robotland » Fri Oct 10, 2003 5:57 am

As a comparison, here in Mittenland the best prices on conduit are at Menard's, which is kind of a cheaper Home Depot to the uninitiated- 1/2" EMT is $1.10, 3/4" is $2.20, and 1" is FERGITABOUTIT. All of the stores that sell to electrical contractors are significantly more expensive. Luckily, Kalamazoo is dense with old buildings that are constantly being renovated so the big rectangular cornucopias grant me a great boon of free conduit...
I keep a pipe cutter in my desk at work so that I can precut EMT to dome strut lengths as I salvage it, which cuts a little off of the tedium of strutprep at build time. Piecing the work out, even over several months, can save wear and tear on wrists and elbows- My very first dome went from raw pipe to finished 18' 2V in EIGHT HOURS, a fact that my arm joints reminded me of for several weeks afterward!
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Bob
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Post by Bob » Fri Oct 10, 2003 9:05 am

Many people use electrical conduit for geodesic dome struts. Many many people. You can't swing a cat at Burning Man without bonking his head on a piece of conduit.

It's okay stuff for what it is. Easy to find, easy to cut, pinch, drill, bend, mangle, etc. If you want a dome in a hurry, a dome that many people just like you have built just the same way, that might be the way you would go.

Not putting it down, really -- my main objection would be to using 1/2" where 3/4" would be better, 3/4" where 1" would avoid catastrophic collapse, etc. And things do collapse at the event -- a 30' dia dome made using 1/2" collapsed in the first gust of wind in Center Camp in '98 or '99, and a 60' dia dome made using 3/4" conduit eggshelled in a moderate wind storm in 2000.

There are other materials out there, though, available for free or cheap, that might work just fine and look a little different. Wood poles, wood lumber, bamboo, fiberglass pipe, aluminum pipe, PVC pipe (it comes in purple and orange, not just white, ski poles, skis, sailboard masts, rain gutter, cardboard carpet tubes, and suchlike.
Amazing desert structures & stuff: http://sites.google.com/site/potatotrap/

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zen_greg
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Post by zen_greg » Fri Oct 10, 2003 9:49 am

Anybody out there used fenceposts for chainlink fences as dome struts? I was looking at Allied spec. sheets and even the 1 3/8" posts have near double the wall thickness of the EMT I've used.

If you have tried fenceposts, what kind of press did you use? I'm wondering if my 3 ton Arbor Press will do the trick.

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Don Muerto
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Post by Don Muerto » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:11 am

zen_greg wrote:Anybody out there used fenceposts for chainlink fences as dome struts? I was looking at Allied spec. sheets and even the 1 3/8" posts have near double the wall thickness of the EMT I've used.
Sounds HEAVY
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Alpha
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Post by Alpha » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:22 am

zen_greg wrote:If you have tried fenceposts, what kind of press did you use? I'm wondering if my 3 ton Arbor Press will do the trick.
I seriously doubt it. I seem to recall reading one person's experience using a 3-ton press on 3/4" EMT and even that was pushing the limits.

I'd guess that fence posts are serious overkill, even for Thunderdome.

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zen_greg
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Post by zen_greg » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:26 am

Don Muerto wrote:Sounds HEAVY
Yes, but then maybe one could surpass the fabled 4.5 to 5 foot strut. Knock the frequency down a notch and you can leave a lot of struts at home. Or, build a 6-7V with 8-10 foot struts and cover your whole block.* I suppose with that logic, I should switch to I-Beams. My basic thought is if I can still smash the end of the darn thing and drill a hole in it, it is fair dome material. Besides, what's a couple tons between friends?

*slight exaggeration (unless you live on a small block).

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zen_greg
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Post by zen_greg » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:33 am

Alpha wrote:I seem to recall reading one person's experience using a 3-ton press on 3/4" EMT and even that was pushing the limits.
The 3-ton chewed up the 3/4" EMT pretty well once I added a cheater bar. I just slipped a 3 foot piece of 1" black-pipe over the top and then duct-taped it in place. I also clamped the press to the worksurface to keep the extra leverage from just tipping the whole thing over.

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Alpha
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Post by Alpha » Fri Oct 10, 2003 10:38 am

The smallest fence post I can find is 8.5', 2" OD (galvanized steel). If you were to build a frequence-2 dome out of that, it would have a 27.5' diameter and would require 65 struts. At $18 apiece, that's $1100 in materials. And they weigh what, maybe thirty pounds each? That's 1950 pounds. If you're willing to go to the expense and difficulty of transport, I'd love to see the dome when you're done!

One more thing: you might consider alternatives to smashing the end, for example fashioning a cap or plug with a tab on it.

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Post by robotland » Fri Oct 10, 2003 11:52 am

I'd like to echo Alpha's sentiment regarding fenceposts- The heavyness of the material is not offset by the subsequent catastrophic lightening of your wallet.....
I haven't made a full-sized version yet, but I was fooling around with scraps of metal stud that were being THROWN AWAY (!) out back of work, and can see some potential for domes and such- they're cheap, strong enough if not too long, and VERY light. They're also thin enough to cut tabs in or trim with tinsnips, but can inflict nasty sheetmetal slices! "Jet" or self-tapping metal screws work great with this stuff, especially if you take some design time to maximize overlap. That they are flat-faced helps with the issue of coverage, too.
I was noticing that the Kaleidosphere builders used wooden struts on the spheres, that were each made from two pieces of 1x3" or such, glued and nailed together to form a T and connected with slick metal hubs. Seemed toughern'hell......
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Bob
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Post by Bob » Fri Oct 10, 2003 12:10 pm

Amazing desert structures & stuff: http://sites.google.com/site/potatotrap/

"Let us say I suggest you may be human." -- Reverend Mother Gaius Helen Mohiam

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Post by robotland » Mon Oct 13, 2003 5:16 am

Beautiful!
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Bruce Scanlon
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Re: dome-o arrigato, Playa Gelato

Post by Bruce Scanlon » Mon May 10, 2004 3:29 pm

Hi there robotland,

I have been doing some work on building a deck for the top of my dome this year. Do you have any tips you could pass on? I'd love to see pictures, too.
robotland wrote:year we brought an 18' frequency 2 dome with a 10' dome and wooden deck that sat on top, all made of 3/4", and covered with tailored silver tarp sections.
Bruce :-)

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Dome is where the heart is

Post by robotland » Tue May 11, 2004 7:36 am

Hey, Bruce!
So: what flavor of deck wouldja like? My assumption would be a wooden one, and that's what my setup had....I used scrap 2x8" lumber to create a modified pentagonal deck, like a hexagonal picnic table but adapted to the "base ten" construction of a "standard" 2V dome. The pentagon of the deck corresponds to the topmost section of the supporting dome, the five triangles which form a pentagon too. All but the longest and shortest two boards were left out of one segment of the deck, to allow for an internal ladder.
Now, here's where it gets tricky: How to create a level surface that you can attach boards to.....First of all, the deck idea as I built it evolved from the neccessity of reinforcing a second dome that topped the first one.
I'LL TRY TO GET SOME PICS TO YOU, BUT HERE GOES WITH THE DESCRIPTION.
The second dome was just a smaller 2V, and I wanted it to sit level with the apex of the bigger dome, so I created brackets which bolted to the five points of the base-domes top pentagon. These brackets each had two short arms which connected to two adjoining points on the small dome. Times five equals all ten points on the equator of the dome are supported. Pretty sturdy, but I wanted to be sure and knew I'd want to throw a THIRD dome on eventually (I did!) so I looked at how I could stabilize even more. I decided to run struts radially from the apex of big dome to the equator of small dome, and found that it firmed things up immediately. Even 1" conduit struts will fail under personweight when they're that long (over 4') so they either had to be off-limits for climbing or supported somehow. Of course, climbing was mandatory, so I chose to reinforce. Another smaller conduit scrap INSIDE: Not Good Enough. Rebar INSIDE: Likewise. A SPLINT? Bingo. The splint is a length of 2x4" almost as long as the strut, fastened to the strut by two conduit clamps by drywall screws. RESULT: Nine radial 2x4"s,(skip one at the ladder hole) connected by deck boards to form a strong, safe surface. The deck boards were all NAILED down, to eliminate the need for a cordless drill on-Playa, and the screwed-down conduit clamps were installed at home and stayed on those struts permanently. The 2x4"s tended to rotate freely on the conduit struts that they were coupled to, but this is only a hazard during construction since the decking holds them fast. (TIP: Predrill the nailholes on the deckboards for speedy installation!)
Sorry, I know that's a lot to digest and a picture would clarify- Working On It!
Eventually a steeple made of five long struts was added, and later it came off to make room for the third dome. Now it looks like a snowman! In fact, I'm working on fitting it out as one, and bringing it to BRC this year. I utilized a different approach for the third dome- removing the bottom section from a small geodesic sphere that I had made (just because) I bent the five triangles outward just a little and flattened the ends over so they'd couple up with the top-pentagon bolts on the "middle" dome. Done!
I took the five top struts out of the middle dome to allow for a suspended "web" woven from heavy nylon rope, noticing a slight reduction in structural integrity as far as the safety factor of climbing around on the top dome, but decided that I just wouldn't do that. Heck, the thing's 25 feet tall!
RANDOM OBSERVATIONS ABOUT THE DECK:
Cute girls like to sunbathe on them, and they did, which pleased me.

Space the boards out to allow airflow or (just in case!) rainflow. Not TOO far, or it's hard on the feet/knees/ass.

I used a salvaged wooden ladder, which burned on Saturday night. Lash your ladder securely to the deck, and tie a knotted rope to the upstairs that people can use to steady themselves with if they're climbing with one hand and carrying a beverage in the other as we all were, all the time.

The playa heat/dryness/sun hits wood hard- use decent wood from the start, avoiding splits and flaws that are exacerbated Out There.

LAST THINGS FIRST: Test it a home. I made like the gorilla in the old American Tourister luggage commercials, jumping and swinging and shaking everything. Then I invited some friends up, one at a time. Our maximum occupancy was, I think, eight folks on deck. And it was crowded. Build it right, use 3/4" conduit and good wood, and test it.

WHOOPS- One more thing- I made a custom hub for the deck-support struts to couple to- That apex bolt had to be lengthened, and it extended up through the hub and a big fender washer. The hub itself was a little smaller than a frisbee, and had ten holes spaced evenly around the perimeter for the struts to bolts into. I got fancy and made it from 1/2" sheet nylon (old cutting board) laminated under a round piece of aluminum diamond plate for "curb appeal".

I think that this year's model will be entirely wood-free: I'm weaving internal webbing that fastens to the eyelets that I'm replacing the old bolts with. There's a hanging sundeck at second-story level, a little one- or- two-person geohammock in the snowman's head, and a hollow climbing tube up the middle. Lots of work, but I think it'll be cool and it's very comfortable.

Good luck on your project- let me know if you need more Endless Dome Ranting!

-Robo
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Bruce Scanlon
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Re: Dome is where the heart is

Post by Bruce Scanlon » Tue May 11, 2004 2:02 pm

robotland wrote:Hey, Bruce!
So: what flavor of deck wouldja like? My assumption would be a wooden one
Thanks for this amazingly fast and detailed reply, robotland! It's such a pleasure to be talking with someone who is as interested in this stuff as I am. Over the last couple of years I have had what was to me a new idea only to see that other folks had already done it... which is both encouraging and discouraging. I guess with the available materials and analytical tools out there we'd come up with the same results... in fact I was going to do something similar to what you did last year, complete with nested geodesic objects, net suspension, and deck!

Your description is amazingly clear and followable especially since you have no pictures! Very well written, and thank you again.

I also agree that a wood deck is the way to go, and my thinking on this so far has paralelled yours in many aspects: wood deck, top pentagon, wooden strut reinforcement, nesting another geodesic object to create stability and avoid buckling (less chance of this with a 2v dome, but mine is 3v).

My plans were also a little different in a couple of ways, but they mostly used all of the principles you seem to have already tried out...

Instead of creating a flat surface where there is only the pseudo rounded top of the dome I was thinking of building an inverted dome that intersected with the topmost pentagon-forming vertices of the first dome. Like what you described with your topmost sphere. The bottom of this inverted dome (call it a bowl) would be below the top of the base dome, and I was thinking of putting something like a long bolt or piece of 2x4 between the vertices at the top of the dome and the bottom of the bowl to make sure neither buckled.

I was going to use conduit clamps or something similar to attach 2x4's to the 5 struts that radiate out from the top vertex of the dome-- it's the best solution I could come up with, and I'm glad to see that you used it effectively. I was going to make my deck non flat, with the 5 triangles of the pentagon lying along the top of my 3v dome, which is not unreasonably sloped but enough so that I thought it would make folks a little more cautious, which would be good, I think. The rising edges of the bowl would provide a railing, though I didn't really want to close it off over the top and I suspected that I might have to have bracing that ran from the top edges of the bowl back to the dome top vertex. Your experience also suggests that this is necessary... thanks for sharing! Maybe I should just make the bowl a geodesic sphere that intersects with the dome, like you did!

I was also a little stumped about how to get the five 2x4's that lie over the top 5 struts of the dome to have flattened surfaces for board attachment (in much the manner you suggest). I was thinking I could cut the 2x4s with a good table saw, but talking to a friend who works with wood more than me suggested this might be difficult. I wonder if I can leave the 2x4's flat on top and just attach the floor boards with brackets underneath????

If you would like to send images to me directly (posting on the eplaya is a little bit of a pain) you can send to bscanlon AT sonic DOT net

There is a really excellent book that explains the mathematical geometry of geodesic domes and more importantly gives you the tools to create non spherical derived geodesic shapes. It takes a little patience to get through but it's pretty rewarding. It was out of print for 30 years and very difficult to find, but is back in print now. Geodesic Math and How to Use It, by Hugh Kenner. Amazon has it...

Thanks again,

Bruce :-)

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Post by robotland » Thu May 13, 2004 5:52 am

Thanks for the kind words- Glad to be of help! Sounds like a lot of parallel evolution in our designs! When I got out to the Playa I was amazed at the variety of designs, and I especially look forward to seeing what you're creating!
For fastening the 2x4's to the conduit, I DID fasten them on the bottom to keep 'em out of the way- they tend to swing around, so a jiffy clamp kept handy during installation is helpful. I'd add a third conduit clamp to each strut, if I was encoring that design......
When I was playing with the sphere that became the Snowman's head, I seriously toyed with the notion of a bowl.....weird.....
Keep me appraised of your progress- I'm very curious about adapting to a 3v dome. (Never made one! Not fullscale, anyway.....)

Robo
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Martiansky
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Post by Martiansky » Fri May 14, 2004 4:57 pm

Robotland,
I was just wondering if you ever worried about your dome becoming a large grounding rod for lightning or had any close calls? :shock:
So the theme this year is like a giant camp out in the desert? With people bringing lots of shit from all over? uh.. -Marscrumbs

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Post by robotland » Mon May 17, 2004 5:53 am

The thought DID occur to me.....at home, it's set up among trees that are all taller than it by 10-20 feet, but it WAS the tallest thing in Hushville aside from the beacon....My secret evacuation plan consists of me being off drunk somewhere else during electrical storms.....
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