For all the Dome Builders out there

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.
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aranryan
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For all the Dome Builders out there

Post by aranryan » Tue May 27, 2008 2:08 pm

So I have completed the frame of my 15ft diameter 3V Dome and wanted to share my experience with those who are considering building their own.

First of all, the measurements at http://www.desertdomes.com are 100% accurate and you can count on the measurements to be exactly what you need. There is certain dimensions to keep in mind though like the difference between the hole-to-hole length and the cut length. Make CERTAIN you know the difference BEFORE cutting your conduit!

Having the right tools will make fabrication SO much easier. Some use saws to cut their conduit to length but I found using a regular pipe cutter works better and results in cleaner cut edges. Hacksaws work but are tiring and dont provide a clean straight edge. An electric cut saw may work well but I did not try it because I couldn't find a way to reliably secure the conduit in place while cutting.

To smash the ends of the conduit you can use a hammer but it just doesn't look nice and takes too much effort. A vise works but is also super time consuming and doesn't provide a rounded inner edge that adds strength. A hydraulic press with rounded press plates is the only way I'd go. Oh and those 1 ton arbor presses at Harbor Freight are garbage even with some added leverage. Save your sanity and ask around to find the 12 ton hydraulic type.

After you smash the ends down I highly recommend putting the ends to a grinder and grinding down the sharp edges. If you use a pipe cutter like I did, the ends become razor blade sharp when pressed so this was required. While I was at it I also rounded off the edges to prevent the dome covering from snagging and tearing on the struts. This was the most time consuming part. I spent many evenings just grinding the ends down. I believe it was totally worth it as there were no injuries while assembling the dome afterwards. Your knuckles will thank you.

As for drilling the holes, I was super paranoid about making the measurements from each hole exact (almost to 1/16th of an inch) but later found that it was actually quite forgiving. At some point my jig for drilling moved and some struts were off by a 1/4 inch. I was bummed when I discovered it and thought I'd have to re-make them. I used them during the construction and found that it didn't make a huge difference. I would still be careful and measure constantly, but know if you're a lil bit off its ok.

Bending the angles for each strut took no time at all and I just eyeballed it against a protractor. During assembly there were a few times that I found my angles were a lil bit off but after some tightening, everything bent right into place.

I used 3/8 Hex head bolts with washers on the top and bottom of each bolt. 62 bolts in all. 15 of these bolts I got at 1.5 inches long and the rest were at 2inchs long to accomodate going through up to 6 struts. This worked perfectly.

To construct the dome, I figured out the method that best worked through trial and error and found this step by step process to be the most successful. I built from the ground up so those who build top-down will have different methods. This method worked using just two people:

1. Lay out the different size struts in separate piles in the center of where you will be building the dome.

2. Lay out the bottom pattern row according to your dome frequency. Mine was 3V so I only had 3 different sizes. My bottom pattern was C,C,B with 15 struts. Don't worry about making a perfect circle at this point. The dome will form itself.

3. Build your first triangle shape (I started on a "B" strut and added the "C"s to make a hexagon). The first row of triangles is the toughest because they can't hold themselves up yet. This requires two people. One to hold the form up and the other to bolt. Otherwise, frustration will set in and while juggling struts, bolts, washers, and nuts (haha... nuts...) you'll start wondering why you wanted to build this damn thing in the first place. Patience and teamwork is the answer.

4. Once the first row of struts is built, the others come pretty easy. I single handedly built most of the second row. You will be unbolting the lower struts a bit but you're just adding to them so it shouldn't come apart. Depending on the size of your dome, you'll need a ladder to get to the next layer. Put bolts with the washers and nuts on them in your pockets so you have easy access to them when you're on the ladder assembling. Have your partner hand you the size struts you need as you go across. I had major fumbling issues and kept dropping bolts, washers, and nuts while I was assembling. My building partner helped by handing me back what I dropped between swearing and saying I couldn't hold my breath if I tried. LOL

5. The last few rows went pretty easily except where my end angles were bent too far. I found that you're better off bending too little than too much. I had to wrench down on some of ther vertices to get some of the final struts to connect but it wasn't horrible. P.S. Don't fall off the ladder at this point. You'll swear a lot, look stupid, and waste 2 hours for a beer break.

6. Assemble the top pentagon on the ground and have your partner lift it up to you. Rather than wrestle the whole dome to fit your last strut, have the last few already connected at the center. I found it was easier that way.

YOUR DONE!

Some minor tweaks to get the bottom perfectly round were needed by simply pulling on the frame a bit. Nothing terrible.

Climb on it, (try to avoid on the center of the struts as they might bow a lil bit) wave to your neighbors, antagonize the kids, play king of the mountain. Its your own personal jungle gym! I was so extremely happy that I managed to take a stack of conduit and turn it into something so massive and strong. Once staked down I don't see how it could possibly move anywhere except by tornado force winds. Its solid.

I sat and had coffee with my dome the next morning and we bonded. She can't wait for the playa. ;)

Next is the cover and once I have a solution for that, I'll post here again. Please comment and/or ask questions. I'm happy to help. :D

-A!


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chiefdanfox
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Post by chiefdanfox » Tue May 27, 2008 4:35 pm

Nice detail. I don't know what your bank is, but the 70% Aluminet mesh really works. It won't keep out dust or rain, but it sure works on the sun, and allows air flow.

Too bad you couldn't start on the top and lift the dome as you build. No ladder work=less time in construction, but I guess you'd wind up in the middle of an aluminum porcupine is you tried that!

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falk
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Post by falk » Tue May 27, 2008 7:04 pm

Congratulations, and your directions and observations seem right on to me.

I agree that pipe cutters rock, although they do take much longer than some other methods.

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Post by Intubater69 » Tue May 27, 2008 7:34 pm

Aha!! So sneaky of you to post over in this new thread as opposed to NBD's and I do believe my good man that you have answered a few of my questions I posted in that thread before I wandered on down the line. I can see from the close ups that you did in fact go the press route. And I agree with you, swearing and beer drinking go hand in hand with any worthwhile projects. :lol:
I get to drive the ambulance how fast?!!

SailMan

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aranryan
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Post by aranryan » Tue May 27, 2008 9:53 pm

Falk! So glad you popped in. Your Oasis dome was the fire under my ass that kept me feverishly working on getting this completed. Maybe you could share insight on how to create the cover? Any chance of seeing you and your dome out there this year?

Intubey - Yes, I am of the devious sort and like to keep ya on yur toes. :twisted: Believe me there was plenty of swearing and the best part was that my brother-in-laws brother in-law (who is a total jesus freak) was on the receiving end of my verbal assault on all things holy. Heheh. I loved it.

Budget for the cover is somewhat negotiable but I'm thinkin that billboard vinyl is my material of choice due to its resistance to wear, availability, and cheap price. $50.00 for a 14 X 48 foot section. To prevent the dome from becoming an oven I'm buying a shit-ton of this Temptrol stuff and I'm sewing a layer of it on the outside. http://www.radiantbarrier.com/temptrol.htm So far its all going to plan (on paper) but in practice I have yet to start. I'm still reveling in the fact that my frame worked perfectly. I looked into Aluminet and might use that for vents and windows still but it is slightly cost prohibitive. I'll look into all options and any help is greatly encouraged. Thanks for all the positive feedback! :D

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Post by robotland » Wed May 28, 2008 5:55 am

...and one important note on pipe squishing- Don't forget to align the conduit so that the seam is off at two o'clock or the equivalent and NOT either straight UP or DOWN before squishing. That way you avoid the nearly inevitable seam splits. Using a pipe cutter makes such a sharp inner edge that feeling for that seam can be dangerous unless you have teensy little fingers! The grind-down-the-sharpies suggestion is a good one. I've fallen victim to numerous scratches from struts that swung around and bit me in the back while assembling or disassembling. Still dreaming of the miracle die that would squish, punch the hole AND trim the corners all in one swell foop.

We're hosting a wedding here right before I take off for the playa, and I had to take down my biggest dome to make room...but I'm rebuilding it for a campout this summer twenty yards offshore in Lake Michigan. Aquadome! There's a sandbar that will leave about half of the dome out of the water, so we should be able to kayak in and chill under the shadecloth. Might make a little crow's nest!
Howdy From Kalamazoo

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Post by Ugly Dougly » Wed May 28, 2008 9:18 am

Somewhere a children's playground is missing their jungle gym. I hope you put it back when you are done.

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aranryan
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Post by aranryan » Wed May 28, 2008 1:13 pm

That was in this thread Ugly Dougly: http://eplaya.burningman.org/viewtopic.php?t=23994

:D

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Post by Dork » Wed May 28, 2008 2:03 pm

A carbide tipped metal saw (I have a Dewalt Multi-cutter) will give a much faster and cleaner cut than an abrasive chopsaw, so if you know someone with one of those it would be worth asking to borrow it. A band saw should be reasonably good as well.

If you're not familiar with drilling holes in sheet metal, you have to use a slightly larger bit than the bolt size. Be sure to try one first, check it with the bolt to make sure it goes in easily but there isn't too much extra room.
Somewhere a children's playground is missing their jungle gym.
It makes me sad that adults don't get playgrounds of our own. Besides Burning Man, that is.

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aranryan
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Post by aranryan » Wed May 28, 2008 3:14 pm

Aha! Dork makes an important point that I forgot to point out. I used 3/8 in bolts but a 3/8 drill bit didn't allow the bolt to slide into the hole without effort (if at all) so I used a metric drill bit out of an old index I had laying around to ream a few thousandths off to make for a better fit.

:!: Another important point that I forgot to mention is to lower the RPM on your drill press when drilling into metal. You'll just wear out your bits if you are spinning at high speed. The bit needs time to bite into the metal. Low Low Low RPMs! And use Drill Oil!

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Post by gyre » Thu May 29, 2008 12:17 am

There are bits sized for hardware fitting.
Probably a chart somewhere.

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Post by robotland » Thu May 29, 2008 6:11 am

I actually make all my holes a little bigger on purpose- The wiggle room is helpful on those pesky six-way connections when you're on tiptoe with the socket wrench AND trying not to spill your beer.
I realize that after you move from 2V to 3V and beyond the tolerances get more critical...I guess that's why I stick with 2V, mostly.
Howdy From Kalamazoo

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Post by karine » Thu May 29, 2008 7:08 am

It's in itsy bitsy dome!

I was trying to figure what I'd do for sleeping quarters.. you know... something to cover one queen size raised bed, perhaps.
The problem (I really think) is this smaller dome really is as much work and money as a dome that's bigger. (The only difference is the length of the struts).

And there is so much work in setting up camp, already -
Could we invent a "pop up" dome?
THAT would be the next thing I'd build.

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aranryan
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Post by aranryan » Thu May 29, 2008 10:14 am

A "pop-up" dome... I wish!

Granted this dome isn't gynormous like the 32 footers you see and although lots of space is nice, I figured I didn't need much to house just two people and our crap. I also wanted easy set up without having to resort to using scaffolding or lift trucks.

Also, the larger the dome, the more surface area you need to cover. Have you seen prices on material these days? $4.00 or more per lineal yard and considering every foot larger you get multiplies the cost of covering it exponentially... well, it isn't even close to being inexpensive.

Its a bit more complex than just changing strut lengths...

So really, I feel that a smaller dome was the better solution for me since it was enough room for two people, I was on a limited budget (and I know most burners are), and was simple enough for just two people to build. I would guess that if I were part of a huge camp, a larger dome would be more economical since it would cover more people and there would be more resources to tap (mainly $$$).

When you get the design for your pop-up dome, patent it! You'll be a millionaire.

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Post by aranryan » Thu May 29, 2008 10:28 am

So now I'm working on creating a custom fit cover for this thing and I've come up with the below diagram. I'm not going to do individual triangles because thats just way too many seams and it would be more likely to fail (or even get completed). I'm thinking strips of material made into 5 different sections that would be assembled together at the end. This diagram doesn't account for material needed for seams, grommetting, and various things like stretching, windows, vents, etc. This is draft #1 basically. Thoughts? :)

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Post by Intubater69 » Thu May 29, 2008 11:16 am

aranryan wrote:So now I'm working on creating a custom fit cover for this thing and I've come up with the below diagram. I'm not going to do individual triangles because thats just way too many seams and it would be more likely to fail (or even get completed). I'm thinking strips of material made into 5 different sections that would be assembled together at the end. This diagram doesn't account for material needed for seams, grommetting, and various things like stretching, windows, vents, etc. This is draft #1 basically. Thoughts? :)

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Aha! There's that pesky door :lol: What about next year building a 2nd 18' dome and connecting the 2 with a monkey hut? 1 could be for sleeping, and the other could be the living room. You could then name it Camp Barbell.
OMG wait! With the right shade cover colors, you could name it.....

Camp Boobs, welcoming Newbs gifting Doobs.

I am such a visionary :lol:
I get to drive the ambulance how fast?!!

SailMan

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Post by falk » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:02 am

robotland wrote:...and one important note on pipe squishing- Don't forget to align the conduit so that the seam is off at two o'clock or the equivalent and NOT either straight UP or DOWN before squishing.
OR left or right. It needs to be at an angle.

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Post by gyre » Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:38 am

Some people have layered a lot of rectangular tarps and tensioned them all with bungees.
They seem quite happy with the results.
It may not look as elegant.

Are many doing solid panels?
I've seen some out there.

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