Driving Posts into the Unforgiving Playa

peachandpapa · Post by **peachandpapa** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:27 pm

We are planning to erect a shade structure using 1" steel pipe. What is the best way to get the posts into the ground?

justfred · Post by **justfred** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 3:17 pm

The best way is not to put the posts into the ground.

Use large (18"/24") military tent stakes and sturdy ratchet straps, at a 45-60 degree angle out from the pole. Stakes should be placed at an angle against the load. A pair of straps should go to each corner of the structure, and preferably a pair at each pole junction. The fabric on top of the structure should be taught (bungee-ball tarps are often used for this). Pound the stakes all the way in so they're flush with the ground, then put carpet over the top. Check regularly during windstorms.

Depending on the size of the structure, most people would also recommend pounding in rebar next to each pole and then duct-taping; I think it's unnecessary, more ratchet-ties would be a better use of resources, but pounding rebar is a good job to give people to make them feel like they're participating. "What should I do now?" "Go pound some rebar."

phil · Post by **phil** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:44 pm

peachandpapa wrote:We are planning to erect a shade structure using 1" steel pipe. What is the best way to get the posts into the ground?

You don't give enough information for an informed answer (which you certainly can get and should get). Please post the dimensions of the shade structure, the materials of the shade, the materials and diameters of the supports, and such.

Louise and I have a 10x10 shade with cyclone fence posts and a peaked roof. We drive in 2-foot rebar and duct tape the legs to the rebar, which works fine. Stood up to all the wind last year, for example, even with our side flaps on. No guys for people to trip on, no external rebar to gash legs, etc.

Dork · Post by **Dork** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:25 pm

I used "feet" with 4 holes in them on my 1" pole shade structure, with 12" nails driven into the holes. For my structure it worked out just fine and were super easy to put in/take out. If your structure catches the wind more some extra lines like justfred describes would hold it very well.

If you can provide more detail about what you're building we can give you more input.

Bob · Post by **Bob** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:29 pm

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:30 pm

I'd say hold them in you teeth and let a friend hit you in the back of the head with a hammer, that'll keep the ends from getting all dented and deformed.......

peachandpapa · Post by **peachandpapa** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:18 am

Our shade structure is approx. 12' x 30.' We tried "the holding it in our teeth" method but it hurt our hammer. Thanks for the input!

klondike_bar · Post by **klondike_bar** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:19 am

ygmir wrote:I'd say hold them in you teeth and let a friend hit you in the back of the head with a hammer, that'll keep the ends from getting all dented and deformed.......

ive been using a small wood board all this time, stupid me...

phil · Post by **phil** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:39 am

Bob wrote:

Will it be totally shadowless when I use it?

Post by **mdmf007** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:42 am

phil wrote:
Bob wrote:
Will it be totally shadowless when I use it?

Yes - a shadow costs extra

Dr Dilemma · Post by **Dr Dilemma** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:51 pm

Whether you use stakes or rebar, one suggestion is to make sure to bring some old tennis balls with you and slit them to put on top.

http://www.burningman.com/preparation/e ... rebar.html

One time tripping over rebar in the night and gashing your ankle will make you a believer!

As far as driving them in, we used a sledgehammer. Damn effective and you look oh so butch!

**burn** · Post by **burn** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 2:30 pm

[quote="KestrelSF"]
One time tripping over rebar in the night and gashing your ankle will make you a believer![quote]

I have the scars to prove it.

______________
Risky

theCryptofishist · Post by **theCryptofishist** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:32 am

phil wrote:
Bob wrote:
Will it be totally shadowless when I use it?

I don't know. Have you sold your soul to the devil?

peachandpapa · Post by **peachandpapa** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 10:35 am

What exactly is that shadowless object? Do you twist it into the ground and place a pole into it? Enlighten me further...please.

Bob · Post by **Bob** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 10:57 am

It's a post driver. Slips over the top of a t-stake fence post, pipe or whatnot, and you use it like a slide hammer to drive the post into the ground.

Post by **mdmf007** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:39 am

[youtube][/youtube]

[youtube][/youtube]

ygmir · Post by **ygmir** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:49 am

007:
are you looking for more post subjects?
gashammer,
propane hammer
bob with his post driver.............

peachandpapa · Post by **peachandpapa** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 4:18 pm

Bob,

Thanks for the explanation!

Steven bradford · Post by **Steven bradford** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:32 pm

Those heavier t stake fence posts work great. Drive those in with the post driver, attach your poles to those.

Jordan 10-E · Post by **Jordan 10-E** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:45 pm

Some of this is already mentioned.

Hammer (a SMALL "hand sledge" hammer works best. Wear gloves for the times you might miss) a 2 ft piece of rebar straight into the ground at each of the points where the legs touch the ground. Firmly duct tape the leg to the rebar. Sometimes I use a zip tie first and then duct tape over that. That was the first step.

Second, you MUST use ropes or guy lines on the sides and corners of your structure. Otherwise it will want to fly away (I have a scary story about this one) or it will totally pancake. Wind will severely stress your structure. Plan on it. My general rule is one line to the top of each leg. Tie and tighten (learn some good knots for this purpose) the bottom end of the rope to another piece of rebar that has been driven in at an angle. Two people working together works best. The rope does not need to be extended really far out from the structure, two or three feet is usually sufficient. In fact, the further out it is the more likely people will be to trip on the rebar or run into the rope... and the longer the rope the more it stretches which might require re-tightening later in the week. Cover exposed rebar ends and flag each rope for safety. Lighting is always good too, if you can.

Some side notes on on rebar. Do not be tempted to buy the smallest diameter pieces because they are cheapest or because they are lighter. These bend very easy and will be worthless after their first use or even before. They also pull out too easily. Use at least the next step up, which I think is 1/2", but I can't remember exactly right now. On top of that, do not use 1 ft pieces as they are far too short and will be worthless, 3 ft is really too long except in rare circumstances. 2 ft. You can find rebar at Home Depot in the concrete area. Get the right kind and enough to meet your needs. This is a necessary investment.

To remove your stakes take a hammer and knock the sides of the rebar a few times to break up the surrounding soil. Then use a pair of vice grips to twist and pull out. Pretty simple.

And finally one last suggestion. Sometimes you can also park a vehicle or an unused trailer next to the side of your structure and tie off some of your lines to that as a secondary precaution. Even with everything else we have had to resort to this technique in the past and I now usually do it all the time.

Good luck and have fun.

Driving Posts into the Unforgiving Playa

Driving Posts into the Unforgiving Playa

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