Guidance on using deep cycle marine battery for power at BM

Bluemandrew · Post by **Bluemandrew** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 4:40 pm

Could I buy a charger built for car use and not have to convert it dc-ac-dc?

This laptop has no draw labeled, I was thinking I would buy a kill-a-watt meter and plug it in to see what I get, but is there a way to test that without buying a $50 tool? I have a multi-meter, just don't know what to do with it lol

Thanks for the help

phil · Post by **phil** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 5:51 pm

> Could I buy a charger built for car use and not have to convert it
> dc-ac-dc?

I'm guessing you're confusing inverters and chargers. If you buy a generator, it puts out 120VAC, and it may also put out 12VDC, but I don't know. Your car battery charger will run on 120VAC, so you need the generator to power the battery charger. The battery charger charges your battery. The battery puts out 12VDC (actually 13.2VDC when fully charged). However, your laptop plugs into a wall outlet, expecting 120VAC.

The inverter takes the 12VDC coming from your battery and makes it 120VAC for your wallwart connected to the laptop's battery. Unfortunately, the battery in your laptop is not 12VDC, so you can't just plug it into your huge megaAmp battery; additionally, the wallwart probably has a small processor in it to monitor the charge going to the laptop battery to make sure it doesn't fry the electrolyte.

Your queston, "Could I buy a charger built for car use?" is absolutely maybe. It depends on the kind of battery you've bought for playa use. You'll need to read the manual that comes with your battery to know what kind of charger to buy. Your car is a lead-acid battery (probably), and a charger for that type battery may not be suitable for AGM and gel cells. Read the battery manual, then read the charger manual.

Bluemandrew · Post by **Bluemandrew** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:00 pm

Ah, right. I was refering to the laptop's inverter, not a charger for the mega-huge-batteries. I just thought if I purchased one designed for a car lighter outlet I could skip the cost of some hardware and increase the efficiency of the setup. We're driving from the east coast so the less I have to bring the better.

I need to go do more battery homework now :)

phil · Post by **phil** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:44 pm

Bluemandrew wrote:I just thought if I purchased one designed for a car lighter outlet I could skip the cost of some hardware and increase the efficiency of the setup.

Yes, I think you can. I hadn't thought of that. The end designed to plug in is the plug, the place you plug it into is the socket. You can buy sockets with spring clamps to attach to the battery posts.

We're driving from the east coast so the less I have to bring the better.

Where ya from?

Captain Goddammit · Post by **Captain Goddammit** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:58 am

Hey Phil, which coast is Codgerville on? I can't seem to find it on a map!

phil · Post by **phil** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:33 am

Captain Goddammit wrote:Hey Phil, which coast is Codgerville on? I can't seem to find it on a map!

We're bi-coastal.

Bluemandrew · Post by **Bluemandrew** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 3:16 pm

We're coming from New Hampshire. Looks like we'll be driving a Neon at this point, should be quite the exercise in packing...

Oldguy · Post by **Oldguy** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:10 pm

Yep, sometimes smaller is better. My Geo Metro still gets 53 mpg. Iv'e used it the last 5 years. I purchased about 30 gallons unleaded for entire roadtrip. I got smart last year and bought a trailer hitch from Amazon for a hundred bucks. I pulled a small trailer and still got over 40 mpg.

I used a small solar panel to topoff a marine battery for cigarette lighter powered appliances. My coleman floresent lantern used up two 6volt batteries. I carried a booster batterycable battery with light that I also kept topped off. For cooking, I used a Primus butane backpackers stove. I used up only one canister the entire week.

FLETCHER · Post by **FLETCHER** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:36 am

I have used deep cycle marine batteries for extreme power amps. I by-passed the amp's power supply using 10 - 12volt batteries in series to supply +/- 60volts with a peak power rating of about 24000 watts (10 x 12v x 200amps). Most amps will run quite well with just six batteries.

However, I think you'll find that a small, quiet generator is the most practical solution. I got one for $150 that will drive a medium sized air compressor, which is about the heaviest load you can find. If you're nearby, you can tap-into mine. It also charges batteries, so if you go that route, I can help you keep one charged so you can swap out batteries for continuous operation.

I also have a 2000 watt 12v to 120 vac inverter. It is efficient, but it will not drive the compressor.

------------------------------------
I get 42 mpg in my '98 Cadillac De Ville going from Reno to LA. That's better than most doodle bugs. I know that's off-topic, but so are most posts.

seanlee · Post by **seanlee** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 4:50 pm

What type of power would be required for a MV (gas golf cart base) that has:

- about 200ft of ELwire
- a shitty stereo cd player rated at 50w
- two shitty 5" speakers
- two LED headlights

Is this enough to push me over to the "just use a generator" category, or would a marine battery work for me the whole week?

TIA,

-Sean

FLETCHER · Post by **FLETCHER** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:07 pm

The battery will do fine. If you need a charge, go to the Oasis Mutant Alien Beauty Spa for a recharge.

seanlee · Post by **seanlee** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:15 pm

FLETCHER wrote:The battery will do fine. If you need a charge, go to the Oasis Mutant Alien Beauty Spa for a recharge.

Thank you much!

One other thing I forgot to ask is, for a small (not deep cycle) golf cart 12v battery, which type of solar charger would be appropriate? Do the little 1amp trickle chargers work at all?

Thanks again,

-Sean

FLETCHER · Post by **FLETCHER** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:20 pm

DON'T KNOW. I HAVE SOME LED LAMPS THAT SOLAR RECHARGE, BUT A LEAD ACID BATTERY IS ANOTHER STORY.

seanlee · Post by **seanlee** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:23 pm

Perhaps I am not being specific enough...

Is there some formula to figure out what type of solar panel solution is needed to re-charge a battery during the day time? How do you manage over-charging? Are any additional tools/parts needed in order to recharge a battery via solar panel?

-Sean

motskyroonmatick · Post by **motskyroonmatick** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:11 pm

Seanlee,
I would buy the biggest deep cycle/marine starting battery you can fit in your golf cart and just power everything off of that. Wire a fuse block directly to the battery and wire all your extra appliances to that with switches for each circuit. The EL wire won't draw much so you could probably leave that on for quite a while with the cart not running. I think normal driving of the cart will keep the battery topped off nicely and you won't need solar at all. If you have to go with solar you can buy something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/SunForce-60-Watt-So ... iewItemand just mount it to the roof of the cart and then attach the appropriate leads to the battery.
If you want to keep the additional electronics totally separate from the golf cart electrical then there will need to be another battery and a way to charge it. Solar, RV style battery charger connected to the golf car battery or just recharging it from a generator.
Hope this helps.

seanlee · Post by **seanlee** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 10:18 am

Thank you. This is exactly what I needed to hear!

-Sean

Oh and your URL was malformed...

The proper URL points to: http://tinyurl.com/cdhhvr (ebay search results for SunForce 60 Watt Solar Panel Charger Battery Camper RV)

Mosin · Post by **Mosin** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:03 am

More of Mosin's Unsolicited Fatherly Playa Safety Tips...A word of caution to those who wear metal jewelry (rings, bracelets, watch bands, necklaces) to be extremely careful when working/moving around the positive post and/or tightening the cable/s with any 12v car battery, and especially a DSMB. A few weeks ago I took the full charge of my old Caddy's 12v DSMB through my fucking silver PINKY RING, when I accidentally touched the car's frame while tightening the positive cable with a bare-metal boxwrench.

It was a mini crack of lightning in my hand for a milisecond... sending my elbow smashing into the garage wall by reflex (still hurts... might be cracked...d'oh) and heating up the ring to the point that it was GLOWING.

My instinct was to attempt to rip the molton hippy pinky ring off with my other hand... which I succeeded in doing...eventually...clearly evidenced by the scar tissue.... I will wear the imprint of the ring and its removal forever. In retrospect, I should have gone for the sink or a hose. Yes, OUCH. Goodbye Hand Modeling contract. Anyhoo, since then, in sharing the story with other gearheads I have heard their own 12v-meets-jewelry tales and seen their scars and I must say, I got off easy! A fellow VW phreek moved his current wristwatch over to show me a virtual scar tattoo of his former watch, which years ago had similarly taken the full 12v. hit from a battery and grounded out. Same dynamics as my pinky ring, but on a much larger scale, and on his wrist...

Talk about Burning Man! Nyuk, nyuk...

I honestly can't work around car battery terminals yet without getting sweaty palms... and this with all jewelry removed and shielded tools! Spare yourself the shocking truth... 12v have no mercy.

XO

Mosin

penguin · Post by **penguin** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 5:34 pm

'tis best to remove the negative cable before going anywhere near the positive side of a battery -- or so I've always been told (and usually follow the advice) -- I've yet to have been bit by a car battery *knocks on wood* -- 110V from doing stupid things to electrical items I've done, 12V from a bracelet or a ring touching a circuit board I've done; neither were overly pleasant -- but the dumbest (and most memorable) thing was when someone dared me to touch both terminals on a 15V dry cell *shudder*

Mosin · Post by **Mosin** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:18 am

Dumb question perhaps but if the negative cable is removed, can't the positive side still bite you if, say, you ground it out to the frame of a car with your bare wrench and pinky ring? If the answer is no I will be slightly less apprehensive working around the terminals. Once bitten, twice shy (?)

Sail Man · Post by **Sail Man** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 1:59 pm

phil wrote:
Bluemandrew wrote:I just thought if I purchased one designed for a car lighter outlet I could skip the cost of some hardware and increase the efficiency of the setup.
Yes, I think you can. I hadn't thought of that. The end designed to plug in is the plug, the place you plug it into is the socket. You can buy sockets with spring clamps to attach to the battery posts

I am sitting at work all day on my laptop with a radio shack inverter plugged into the 12v outlet. Simple little unit, 1 outlet, works well. Anything more power intensive I'd use a bigger inverter.

vargaso · Post by **vargaso** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 11:39 pm

This may be a dumb question, but how do you plug in a 12V appliance or lights to a deep cycle battery? I understand the inverter part if you need AC power, but is there something else I would need to buy to hook up to the battery in order to plug in a 12V?

My power needs are pretty minimal, just some EL wire and Xmas type lights at night, plus a small sound system and maybe a blender. Not sure I even need a deep cycle. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Bluemandrew · Post by **Bluemandrew** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:58 am

vargaso wrote:This may be a dumb question, but how do you plug in a 12V appliance or lights to a deep cycle battery? I understand the inverter part if you need AC power, but is there something else I would need to buy to hook up to the battery in order to plug in a 12V?

My power needs are pretty minimal, just some EL wire and Xmas type lights at night, plus a small sound system and maybe a blender. Not sure I even need a deep cycle. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

If the appliance has a cigarette lighter plug on it, you could buy a socket that will connect to the battery. I picked one up at radioshack that was just bare wires on one end. Some places carry outlets with little alligator clips to attach to the battery. With bare wires you have to connect them to the battery posts some how. Mine are threaded, so I just crimped on little circular ends to the wire and bolted them down. Red positive, black negative.