HexaYurts

Ideas, advice, tips, and tricks regarding shelter, shade, tents, and camping. Yes, this includes RV's too.
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Popobumm
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Hexayurt models to scale

Post by Popobumm » Tue May 11, 2010 4:05 am

So in order to get a better sense of the sizes of these Hexayurts, I created a bunch of mockups out of Index cards and made a figurine for reference. He's supposed to be about 5'7" tall if to scale. I found this very helpful to visualize and try to plan what types I would like to try and build. You can check out the linked pictures to see what I mean :)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/50137339@N ... 038936982/

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Elderberry
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Post by Elderberry » Tue May 11, 2010 6:20 am

LOL We built a model too. More to get a feel for the construction process. My suggestion is to build the standard size with the 4 x 8 walls. You'll be glad you have the space. The only reason we are making the walls six feet tall for the new section is because I'm old and it's hard for me to bend over to get through the 3.5' door.

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Post by ConnieH » Tue May 11, 2010 4:21 pm

We did fine without A/C and opposing filter covered windows, but we are also acclimated to the heat and last year wasn't that hot on the playa, so if you can swing a generator and A/C, definitely go for it. We'll probably just tough it out again this year. And we bagged the 6 foot wall idea - too many other projects for camp and the tall BF doesn't mind all the bending, so one less thing to worry about.

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Post by Popobumm » Thu May 13, 2010 12:45 am

Is fire safety a concern out there on the playa? The Hexayurt website warms against the Tuff-R and Rmax polyisocyanurate saying its really flammable. Does this worry anyone else? You all have been doing it for years and it seems fine enough, but I plan to build a pretty extensive hexayurt structure and would rather not come to an untimely death by fire in a collapsed hexayurt :(

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Elderberry
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Post by Elderberry » Thu May 13, 2010 12:54 am

It's insulation used in the construction of probably half the houses in the US. If it was that flammable how would it be approved for building construction?

Which site did you read that on? I've never seen or heard of that before and I thought I've read everything out there on hexayurts.

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Post by MedullaB » Thu May 13, 2010 12:58 pm

It has recently been posted on the Yurt wiki - apparently they have concerns that the bi filament tape burns at a very hot temperature which can ignite the poly iso which then burns aggressively (only from a high temperature ignition source). IMHO there are plenty of more hazardous things on the playa to worry about. Just don't put your camp stove or fire breathing mutant vehicle near your yurt and I am sure you will be fine... :)

We are in the process of making yurts, who would have thought it would be next to impossible to find poly iso boards in Canada... As if by fate, I found some recycled boards locally that were recycled from the Olympics... Which brings me to a question I have - can you paint poly iso? If so, best paint to use?

M

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Post by Elderberry » Thu May 13, 2010 1:13 pm

Yes they can be painted. I painted a garden scene on the panel with the door. I used Acrylic paint.

When I was doing all the reading on HexaYurts, I read that the reflection might be blinding/annoying to other people camping next to them, so we brought a can of off-white house paint the first year just in case. Because the Disney Concert Hall here in LA had that exact same problem with sun reflection, it was seeming very plausible at the time. Fortunately, it wasn't necessary.

One important thing though--in the manufacturing process leaves a light coating of oil on the panels--which should be washed off with some mild dish washing detergent, not only if you are going to paint them, but to make sure the tape sticks.

We learned this the hard way. We spent several hours taping the edges of each panel only to find half the tape lost its stick by the next morning.

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Post by MedullaB » Thu May 13, 2010 1:18 pm

The boards I have do not have the foil - when I got them they had been embossed with a rigid heavy aluminum to give them structure - when I pull these off it takes the foil with it leaving just the foam. The reason I thought to paint it was to protect the foam a bit more so that it doesn't flake - well, that I maybe I could make it look cool! :)

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2 questions

Post by swampdog » Sun May 16, 2010 1:35 pm

I've been designing and building a hexayurt in my head for months now. Time to start on the real thing. I have 2 questions:
Anyone have any idea how to find the stuff in Washington state? The Dow site says they don't sell here. I'm in Bellingham - northwest corner - but could reach pretty much anywhere in state or Portland.

Second, any ideas whether a heated styrofoam cutter would work on this stuff? It's probably too heavy duty. I'll probably try it unless someone says it definitely won't work.

I'm planning to cut the angles on all the panels so I don't have a gap to manage with tape. I'm thinking if I do that I can pre-tape alternate sides so it should all accordion down. Even the top - the flat joint tapes to the inside and folds inside surfaces together, the angle joint tapes to teh outside and folds outside surfaces together. I think that's what they're getting at with the folding hexayurt structure detailed http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... g_Hexayurt

Other ideas - it seems like the tape anchors could as easily be made by rolling up some pvc in a tape loop?

I saw some of the 4 footers on playa last year with tie down straps over the top of the structure - seemed to be quite solid.

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Post by MedullaB » Sun May 16, 2010 9:08 pm

Finding the Poly-Iso boards in Bellingham might be tough. I tried the Lowes there myself (came down from Vancouver when I was searching)... I ended up finding some recycled 4x10 sheets (embossed with heavy aluminum) at the Rona in Vancouver (Grandview hwy). At $7/board they were a steal and IMHO would be worth the drive - if you call and ask for Keith in installs he could tell you if there are any left. Failing that, there are some roofing supply stores that apparently have poly iso boards that are covered in felt rather than the foil. I found some for about $25 a board here in Canada and were my plan "B".

The one factor I am trying to figure out is that when I pulled the heavy aluminum off these board it takes the foil layer off with it leaving just the foam. I am wondering how the tape will stick to the foam and I may have to use an additional adhesive.

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Re: 2 questions

Post by ConnieH » Mon May 17, 2010 9:48 am

swampdog wrote: Anyone have any idea how to find the stuff in Washington state? The Dow site says they don't sell here. I'm in Bellingham - northwest corner - but could reach pretty much anywhere in state or Portland.
Try asking a lumberyard if they can order the panels for you. They aren't sold on the shelf here in Idaho, but my local lumberyard (where the builders go, not Home Depot or Lowes) got my R-Max panels through Boise Cascade.

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Re: 2 questions

Post by toaster » Mon May 17, 2010 10:20 am

swampdog wrote:I've been designing and building a hexayurt in my head for months now. Time to start on the real thing. I have 2 questions:
Anyone have any idea how to find the stuff in Washington state? The Dow site says they don't sell here. I'm in Bellingham - northwest corner - but could reach pretty much anywhere in state or Portland.

Second, any ideas whether a heated styrofoam cutter would work on this stuff? It's probably too heavy duty. I'll probably try it unless someone says it definitely won't work.

I'm planning to cut the angles on all the panels so I don't have a gap to manage with tape. I'm thinking if I do that I can pre-tape alternate sides so it should all accordion down. Even the top - the flat joint tapes to the inside and folds inside surfaces together, the angle joint tapes to teh outside and folds outside surfaces together. I think that's what they're getting at with the folding hexayurt structure detailed http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... g_Hexayurt

Other ideas - it seems like the tape anchors could as easily be made by rolling up some pvc in a tape loop?

I saw some of the 4 footers on playa last year with tie down straps over the top of the structure - seemed to be quite solid.
Awsome link, thanks!
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swampdog
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some leads

Post by swampdog » Thu May 20, 2010 10:12 am

I did some calling around yesterday and got some good information on sourcing the boards.

I described what I was looking for to one store. They didn't recognize any of the trade names (Tuff-R, Thermax, etc) but they said, "do you mean 'polyiso foam boards'?" And I said, "Does it come with aluminum facing?" and they said "yes".

I Googled for polyiso foam boards. It sounds like the right stuff and I found several brands described online.

So I think those are the magic words. You want to ask for "PolyIso foam boards with aluminum facing".

For the person in Vancouver, Builder's Alliance in B'ham said they have them. I haven't been to check it out yet and may not be able to go for a week or more. When I validate the info (general and specific) I'll post a follow up.

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Post by bm_cricket » Thu May 20, 2010 12:04 pm

I like hexayurts. I've never built one myself but a camp mate did last year and loved it!

Last year I bumped into some people putting up a real yurt. Now when I hear "yurt" I think of that moment. I asked them how they liked it and they agreed that if they came with assembly instructions (which they don't) they would have a picture of Satan laughing at you from his yurt. Somehow the image stuck with me.

I just felt like sharing. Good luck on your new and improved non-satanic yurt!
It was better next year. -Burners

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Post by swampdog » Thu May 20, 2010 2:25 pm

Who said "non-satanic"? Did I say "non-satanic"? I'm looking forward to having a space for certain, ahem, rituals. I just need to figure out where to keep the goat until I'm ready for it.

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Post by FIGJAM » Thu May 20, 2010 2:32 pm

The more religious you are the bigger the rubber apron.
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Post by bm_cricket » Thu May 20, 2010 4:05 pm

FIGJAM wrote:The more religious you are the bigger the rubber apron.
...
Gimme that old time religion
Gimme that old time religion
Gimme that old time religion
It's good enough for me.
...
:twisted:
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Post by Popobumm » Mon May 24, 2010 7:46 pm

The technical full name for most of these tuff-R / Rmax boards are "Polyisocyanurate Insulation Sheathing". Usually when I ask for insulation sheathing they can point me in the right direction.

Also, having never actually been on the playa, I don't know how 'safe' we need to keep our belongings. Do people have locks on their hexayurts and tents? If you do have a hexayurt lock mechanism, how did you make it?

Or are we fortunate enough to not have to worry about unwanted guests rummaging through our home away from home?

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Post by bm_cricket » Mon May 24, 2010 8:01 pm

Popobumm wrote:The technical full name for most of these tuff-R / Rmax boards are "Polyisocyanurate Insulation Sheathing". Usually when I ask for insulation sheathing they can point me in the right direction.

Also, having never actually been on the playa, I don't know how 'safe' we need to keep our belongings. Do people have locks on their hexayurts and tents? If you do have a hexayurt lock mechanism, how did you make it?

Or are we fortunate enough to not have to worry about unwanted guests rummaging through our home away from home?
I wish I could say that theft isn't a problem... Unfortunately it is. It isn't a big thing and I bet most people go and have nothing stolen. I have never had anything stolen, just miss placed or borrowed for longer than it should have been.. Just keep anything valuable locked under something gross in your car. I know that there are people who do it but I doubt you'll have anyone breaking into your yurt to take things.

It just came up a few days ago but everyone's conclusion was "use common sense" and "get to know your neighbors". I'm not paranoid out there, I don't even lock my car, but I keep everything valuable hidden in the weirdest places in my car so nobody's going to find them. I live assuming that if someone is determined enough to do something they will find a way. I'm just trying to prevent the lazy-to-moderately motivated thieves...

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Re: 2 questions

Post by Aviax » Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:59 pm

swampdog wrote: I'm planning to cut the angles on all the panels so I don't have a gap to manage with tape. I'm thinking if I do that I can pre-tape alternate sides so it should all accordion down. Even the top - the flat joint tapes to the inside and folds inside surfaces together, the angle joint tapes to teh outside and folds outside surfaces together. I think that's what they're getting at with the folding hexayurt structure detailed http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... g_Hexayurt
Has anyone actually built the partially-folding hexayurt?
The instructions on the site don't seem very clear to me.

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Post by swampdog » Fri Jun 04, 2010 2:21 pm

What I read as the key part is, you cut an angle wherever the panels butt together. (this is all interpretation with no actual experience yet)

So picture 2 pieces of 1 inch thick material meeting edge-to-edge at a 120 degree angle. The inside surfaces match up, but the outside surfaces have a gap. The 'standard' way to build a hexayurt is to put a big wide piece of tape across the gap. If you use that method, you have to build on site or else you'll have to fiddle and futz the panels to fit together correctly. And, the bits of tape across the gap are likely to get all screwed up. Your panels would look something like this:

------------ ------------
| |
------------______------------

(the gap represents tape)

But if you cut an angle into the edge where they butt together, you can have inside and outside surfaces matching, with a nice long edge surface that should match right up.

The edges should go from

-------
|
-------
to
------
\
-------

And I'm not even going to try to draw 2 panels matching up.

So that means you have to cut (for a full size hexayurt) each 1 in thick 4 ft long edge on the 'body' of the thing (the six full size panels) as well as the 'roof' 8 ft (4 ft x 2) triangle bases and (~9 ft) long sides. The top of the 'body' panels don't need to be cut - the bases of the triangle accommodate all the needed adjustment.

These cuts need to be fairly precise, according to the web site.

Then when you assemble and tape up you have joints that you can tape up with some confidence that when you unfold the thing you will have nice tight joints.

At least that's the picture in my head.

The challenge I think is going to be managing somewhat floppy big boards across a cutter with some accuracy. Table saw should do it (wear dust mask) but I'm thinking some sort of heat cutter might work. The heat cutter might be a dead end - this is some fancy-ass plastic foam we're working with, not styrofoam. And it will have aluminum sheathing on at least one side.

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Post by Popobumm » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:32 pm

What kind of doors do most use for their hexayurts? The hexayurt website recommends the vertical type door that is attached at the top and swings in or out, but that seems really inconvenient and almost a waste of space considering how much you have to bend over / crawl compared to a normal swinging door hinge.

Are the normal door hinge designs too unstable?

Also..if I wanted to attach a disco ball the the middle of my hexayurt...would the weight of it be too much? Thanks!

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Post by Doctor Pancakes » Thu Jun 10, 2010 1:41 am

Popobumm wrote:What kind of doors do most use for their hexayurts? The hexayurt website recommends the vertical type door that is attached at the top and swings in or out, but that seems really inconvenient
It is! :( I have the hinged-at-the-top door on my hexayurt and hate it. Gonna reconfigure to a more "standard" horizontal-opening door this year & chance the consequences! But it'll need some kind of latch to prevent it from blowing open in the wind.

BTW no matter what kind of door you settle on, when setting up your yurt on the playa be sure to orient it so the door is on the lee (away from the wind) end. Typically the prevailing winds are from the SW.
Popobumm wrote:Also..if I wanted to attach a disco ball the the middle of my hexayurt...would the weight of it be too much? Thanks!
The roof is actually pretty strong & can probably bear the weight (tho' I wouldn't hang a real, heavy mirror ball). The real issue is: How to mount it so it doesn't pull loose.

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Post by Fire_Moose » Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:42 am

Hexayert build party just outside flagstaff AZ on June 18th PM me for deets
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Post by FIGJAM » Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:43 am

What about getting something like a door for a childs playhouse. A scaled down real door. Then get some metal channel flashing and screw it to the outside frame of the door. Slide this whole thing onto the opening on the yurt and run some bolts through the flashing so that it pinches the styrofoam all the way around. Just a thought.
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Post by ConnieH » Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:04 am

Popobumm wrote:What kind of doors do most use for their hexayurts? The hexayurt website recommends the vertical type door that is attached at the top and swings in or out, but that seems really inconvenient and almost a waste of space considering how much you have to bend over / crawl compared to a normal swinging door hinge.

Are the normal door hinge designs too unstable?

Also..if I wanted to attach a disco ball the the middle of my hexayurt...would the weight of it be too much? Thanks!
I did a normal style door hinge, with the tape as the hinge running the full length of the hinged side, and the door opening into the yurt. I believe the dimensions were something like 24"x 42". I had to trim down the door just a hair so it would shut easily but snugly. Then I fashioned a two sided velcro closure that you can open and "lock" from either side...it worked pretty well. My boyfriend also reinforced the top and bottom of the door jamb by sandwiching the panel with 36" pieces of 2" wood trim, which kept the top and bottom of the opening from flexing. He drilled a couple holes on either side of the door and ran bolts through the wood and panels. And as many times as we knocked our heads on the top of the jamb, we probably would have broken or cracked the foam if the wood hadn't been there.

How heavy is a disco ball? I fashioned hook points on the ceiling with D rings by running the tape through the D and making approx. 6" tails, then taped the tails to the outside of the roof panel before we constructed it, with the D rings wrapping around the edge and hanging inside. That way the tail was taped twice and the weight was pulling down on the outside of the roof rather than inside, which would come untaped eventually. Does that make sense? I imagine you could do something similar for your ball, maybe do two or three in a circle so the weight is pulling down equally on several different panels than just one.

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Post by lucky420 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:08 pm

I was thinking of cutting out my door and using a tape hinge like you did, but i wasn't going to have a bottom jamb. Is the bottom door jamb necessary? Do you think it would be to flimsy with out it?

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Post by ConnieH » Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:39 pm

I wouldn't do it that way unless you braced the jambs somehow...or if you tape your yurt tightly to a tarp, that may give enough rigidity to the opening. It's a weak point for sure. Another concern would be the door catching on the ground, but the playa is pretty flat so you shouldn't have too much trouble with that. We tripped over the edge a bit, but it wasn't really a problem.

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Post by Popobumm » Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:25 pm

ConnieH wrote: I did a normal style door hinge, with the tape as the hinge running the full length of the hinged side, and the door opening into the yurt. I believe the dimensions were something like 24"x 42". I had to trim down the door just a hair so it would shut easily but snugly. Then I fashioned a two sided velcro closure that you can open and "lock" from either side...it worked pretty well. My boyfriend also reinforced the top and bottom of the door jamb by sandwiching the panel with 36" pieces of 2" wood trim, which kept the top and bottom of the opening from flexing. He drilled a couple holes on either side of the door and ran bolts through the wood and panels. And as many times as we knocked our heads on the top of the jamb, we probably would have broken or cracked the foam if the wood hadn't been there.
Great tips! I'll have to go pick up some wood trim for the jambs. When you say 36" pieces of 2" wood trim...do you mean 36x2, or is the 2" the thickness of the trim? Sorry I'm not too familiar with woodworking yet.

Our yurt is planned to be modeled after Jkisha's yurt, with an 8' yurt attached to a 10' yurt, so the planned door should be about 66" x 24". I'm sure the wood panels for the jambs will definitely be needed.

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Post by lucky420 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:59 pm

thank you Connie. I am glad you posted this before I got to cutting my rmax, I see now that no bottom jamb would definitely be a weak point.

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