cooling your tent or van

Swamp Coolers, Cooler Management, Dry Ice, Misting Systems, and just plain how to beat the heat.
Post Reply
User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:37 am

FIGJAM wrote:
FIGJAM wrote:Ok, found a replacement for pad material that you should find at any upholesty shop...

http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_l ... romoid_E_5
This stuff is as porse as the pads and is synthetic.
Is it as strong as the actual swamp cooler pads, though? I've seen wet upholstery batting before (dog shredded a sofa and dragged everything out into the rain). It's not pretty. And the pads may need to be rinsed out and then returned to the bucket ... structurally intact ... at some point during the week.

If this stuff is different, then you're right, it might work fine. And it might work for for single-use applications. But I worry about the durability, given my experience. I would think better (and just as easy) to order a real swamp cooler pad from Amazon.

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:27 am

8)
Last edited by FIGJAM on Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:16 am

8)
Last edited by FIGJAM on Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:48 am

FigJam correctly pointed out to me that my idea of using only half power by powering only one fan probably would not work, as the air would just be sucked thought the open hole from the off fan rather than pulling through the mesh, which is an excellent point.

I'm currently looking into computer fan speed controllers to see how they work with regard to power draw. If they lower the power draw in addition to the speed, that's the perfect solution. Speed controllers can be had for around $6 and will easily wire into the fans using the existing plugs, since they're made for computers anyway.

This solution will 100% work in terms of controlling fan power (and to a lesser extent, noise), but it remains to be seen how they affect power draw. (Does anyone know? I have inquiries out to a few companies but haven't had word back yet.)

Thanks to Trishntek, I have conduit to direct my airflow now, so I hope to get a good temp test done this weekend, assuming it stays sunny. :)

Mr. Lucky
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2008 2:53 pm
Location: 4:30 & Detroit * Seattle, WA

Post by Mr. Lucky » Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:49 pm

Thanks KMan for the details. I've returned my Coolmasters and ordered the Scythes. I'm also excited to hear what you learn about the power control. I too don't know if all speed controls can actually save power or if they just burn the amps that aren't sent to the device.

Fig, cool evolution of the bucket design and awesome hat! Thanks again for inciting a leap in playa cooling evolution.
Lucky
Hippocampus (4:30 and Detroit)
L'Cafe Hippocamus for coffee and french attitude

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:25 pm

You are very welcome mr Lucky, but I was inspired by alot of people so I cant take all the credit.

Im starting a new thread on garden sprayers.

Wait till you see what I did this mourning. :twisted:
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:35 pm

I finally got some pictures to post - here's my system with the reserve tank and float valve installed. I found a slightly beefier fan at a local electronic junk shop, but it's still not enough so I'm going to order a Scythe fan. But other than an upgraded fan, this thing rocks! Can't wait for a true playa test :)








User avatar
phil
Posts: 2936
Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2005 2:10 pm
Location: Codgerville

Post by phil » Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:44 pm


User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:08 pm

Miss Connie... I see that your prodject is finished.

Would you care to explain to the class WHY there is no shade clothe on your wonderful cooler?

You get extra credit if it turns out you just didnt need it. :lol:
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

skinnay
Posts: 70
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:39 am

Post by skinnay » Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:03 pm

One more dumb question, is it at all efficient to run the bucket with no duct inside the tent? or do you need to keep the bucket outside and route a duct into the tent?

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:30 pm

If you have your cooler inside the structure it will build up the humidity inside the structure and stop the evaporation process which will stop the cooling.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:48 am

FIGJAM wrote:Miss Connie... I see that your prodject is finished.

Would you care to explain to the class WHY there is no shade clothe on your wonderful cooler?

You get extra credit if it turns out you just didnt need it. :lol:
LOL...actually, it was leaking a bit ;-) I had taken it all apart to install the float valve and intended to cut a bit bigger piece of shade cloth since the one I had was a little too small, then got in a hurry to get it running to test the float and forgot. It didn't leak badly, but I'd rather it didn't leak at all, especially since it'll be close to my yurt and I don't want any water leaking under my walls, so I'll use shade cloth on the playa. Of course I could put a coaster under it to collect any leaks (and probably will just as a fail-safe), but I want all the water to stay IN the cooler because our water sources are limited.

My biggest problem right now is the leaky reserve line - the white bucket is a bit thicker than the Homer bucket, so my fitting isn't sitting right and it leaks where it leaves the white bucket...gonna try a different configuration tonight and if that doesn't work, I'll go buy another Homer bucket and use the white one for something else. But other than that, the reserve tank and float work awesome...I'm a bit of a worrier, so not having to worry about the pump running dry while I'm sleeping, is a wonderful thing :)

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:54 am

OK..........at least the dog didnt eat your homework. :)
Last edited by FIGJAM on Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:51 pm

cool bump
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:50 pm

Was at hd today and wandered over to the wastebaskets.

Got to thinking about how to do away with the ducting.

Basicly building a smaller version of the box cooler, but you could put up to 6 puter fans on the side of this and have it blow directly into the space. Therefore no 90 or duct needed.

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Ru ... oduct.html

There was also a slim square recycle bin that was big enough to just have a pad on one side. Cut one big square hole. Install a louvered vent panel on the inside to prevent leaking and array as many fans as you care to on the opposing side. It was maybe 10 inches deep.

I could show this better than discribe it, but I really dont need another cooler.

Im still anxious to see Kmans results on the new fans.
Last edited by FIGJAM on Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:01 pm

FIGJAM wrote:Im still anxious to see Kmans results on the new fans.
I don't have temp figures, but I can definitely say I am happiest with the Scythe fans over the others, by far. Massive increase in output, albeit at a moderate price in sound output, but tolerable for outside the yurt... not sure how I'd feel in a tent. Probably wouldn't care as long as it was cool enough to sleep. :)

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:12 am

Figgy, I must confess I look at any plastic container I come across and wonder if I could make it into a swamp cooler, LOL...I have a wastebasket similar to the one you linked, with a lid, that I've thought about converting, but I need to stick with the bucket for cargo space reasons. Next year however...

My Scythe fan came in the mail last night, can't wait to test it out - hopefully tonight if I can get home early enough - and it's supposed to break 100 degrees today, so perfect time to try it out!

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:39 am

The silicon solar replacement pump finally arrived. I picked it up so I'd have a spare, in case something happened to the Harbor Freight pump, or the solar panel got messed up or something (since the HF pump is 6v and I can't run it directly off the 12v battery). I just need to connect the ends of the wire to a cigarette plug for easy plug-in connectivity, and it'll be ready to drop in place in the event of a pump failure.

But wow, it's freaking HUGE compared to the HF pump! I could literally have FOUR HF pumps in the same space the one SS pump takes! Doesn't really matter, it's still plenty small enough to sit in the bottom of the bucket, and I'm sure it'll work fine, but wow I was not expecting the size difference to be so drastic.

I now have a spare pump and a spare solar charge controller (again, in case the HF solar controller dies... HF is great but I try not to rely 100% on their electronic goods without any backup plans!), so unless something happens to my battery (unlikely), I should be covered for the most likely electronics failures on the playa. 8)

All I have left to do is finalize my ductwork-to-fan interface, and this swamp cooler will be ready to put in the "ready to pack" pile. (a pathetically small pile, at the moment)

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Thu Aug 05, 2010 1:13 pm

Your last post kman brings up something I've been thinking about - a battery backup for the solar panel, in case it gets damaged, or in case of a really cloudy day. Do you (or Figgy or anyone who knows this stuff :)) think a 6v alkaline lantern battery could run the HF pump? Or I could connect 4 1.5v batteries in a series to come up with 6v, if my math is correct. I'm just not sure how long it would last, I had a hard time deciphering the data on the Energizer battery site as to amperage.

I've toyed with idea of hooking the pump to rechargable batteries and rerouting the solar panel to charge the batteries, but I'm not exactly sure how involved something like that would be (still learning about all this electricity stuff!). Plus I'm really reluctant to start hacking on the HF pump this late in the game, but thought packing along a lantern battery "just in case" might not be a bad idea. If the pump dies, I'm f*cked, so I'm considering buying a spare like you did - we have a 400w inverter, so I could pick up an AC pump at the local HF and return it later if I don't use it, which hopefully I wouldn't need to :)

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:03 pm

ConnieH wrote:Your last post kman brings up something I've been thinking about - a battery backup for the solar panel, in case it gets damaged, or in case of a really cloudy day. Do you (or Figgy or anyone who knows this stuff :)) think a 6v alkaline lantern battery could run the HF pump? Or I could connect 4 1.5v batteries in a series to come up with 6v, if my math is correct. I'm just not sure how long it would last, I had a hard time deciphering the data on the Energizer battery site as to amperage.

I've toyed with idea of hooking the pump to rechargable batteries and rerouting the solar panel to charge the batteries, but I'm not exactly sure how involved something like that would be (still learning about all this electricity stuff!). Plus I'm really reluctant to start hacking on the HF pump this late in the game, but thought packing along a lantern battery "just in case" might not be a bad idea. If the pump dies, I'm f*cked, so I'm considering buying a spare like you did - we have a 400w inverter, so I could pick up an AC pump at the local HF and return it later if I don't use it, which hopefully I wouldn't need to :)
Hmm, several things going on there.

1) I'm fairly sure the lantern battery (or even bundled alkalines) would indeed power the HF pump. That's certainly an easy way to deal with it. Another option would be to just pick up a small lead-acid 6v battery, which would be pretty cheap. They're readily available, look for sealed AGM batteries. Same sort of batteries you use in a UPS, roughly the size of a lantern battery. No idea how long the alkalines or lantern battery would last, but the lead acid batteries will all have amp-hour ratings, so it's easy to figure.

2) I thought this same issue through (parts failures), however, and ultimately I decided that $21 (shipped) for a fully-spare pump seemed like a better idea than spending money (close to the same, actually) on a 6v spare power solution. A spare pump runs at 12v, too, so no wasteful inverter needed, it's very efficient to run right off the same battery you already have powering the fans. It's not just the power source that can die, after all, if the pump itself gives out it doesn't matter if you've prepared a non-solar power pack.

3) Another option, I'd note, is you could get a power adapter that converts your existing 12v battery into 6v juice the HF pump can use. But that's likely to cost the same as the fully-spare pump, bringing us back to point #2.

4) Hooking the pump to rechargeable batteries and running the pump off the batteries, then charging the batteries from the solar, is a great way of doing it (that's how most solar xmas lights work, too) but I think it's more complicated than I want to get into. A spare pump was a really simple choice, requiring very little work to be 100% ready to go. (just have to connect that cigarette plug, or even could connect the wires directly)

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:05 pm

I think you still have time to order this pump.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

I think they are based in Ca. and I got mine in about a week.

I think with the shipping it was $19.95?

Inverters cost you power.
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:12 pm

FIGJAM wrote:I think you still have time to order this pump.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

I think they are based in Ca. and I got mine in about a week.

I think with the shipping it was $19.95?

Inverters cost you power.
Actually, they're based in Ithaca, NY. I'm holding the shipping slip in my hand. Took about a week to arrive here in SoCal.

$21.82, including shipping, looking at the receipt.

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:16 pm

Thats right. I was thinking of another place. :oops:
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:25 pm

FIGJAM wrote:Thats right. I was thinking of another place. :oops:
Lots of solar places in AZ. Surprising that this one is in NY, actually!

That whole NY thing was annoying since I usually take care of personal stuff in the afternoon when things are slower here at work... kept trying to order, and they were already closed!

But yeah, only took a week to get to SoCal, so anywhere closer should be the same or less time in transit.

Now that I think about it, I do need to make sure my tubing is the same diameter as the output on this pump, so it slips on as easily as the it did the HF pump. That would be a bad discovery on the playa!

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:54 pm

I guess my reasoning for a 6v battery backup was mostly for cloudy days, which do happen, and sometimes it's still quite hot under the clouds. But I suppose instead of unhooking the HF pump from the solar panel and hooking it to a battery, I could just swap the pumps if it gets cloudy. Pretty much the same hassle factor. Maybe over the winter I'll get brave and attempt the battery/solar panel modification to the HF pump, because that system would be ideal.

hmmmm...HF has a 120v pump on sale for $12, and I need to go out there to return some stuff anyway, so I can pick that up for a spare instead of ordering one on-line. If I don't use it, it'll be an easier and cheaper return. If I do use it, I can repurpose it for a garage cooler at home. But having a spare dc pump would be nice...damn, I hate these silly little decisions, so I'll sleep on it ;-)

Thanks for your input guys, it's appreciated as always :) Nice to have people to bounce this stuff off of instead of constantly badgering the BF ;)

User avatar
mthyer
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2010 3:24 pm
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Contact:

Post by mthyer » Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:06 pm

[quote="bm_cricket"][quote="Ugly Dougly"]Can you use grey water in this?[/quote]


Iiiiieeeewwwwwww....

How gray is your gray water? Mine is usually black and soupy.[/quote]

Why not run the grey water through a filter and then circulate what you've got left in the tank of the cooler? A gasoline fuel filter inline with a pump would do the trick and you could use gravity to feed the process instead of a pump even. Just put your feeder tank up on your car roof.

User avatar
capjbadger
Posts: 2691
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 1:17 am
Burning Since: 2005
Camp Name: Lamplighters
Location: Horus' Left Armpit

Post by capjbadger » Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:39 pm

mthyer wrote:
bm_cricket wrote:
Ugly Dougly wrote:Can you use grey water in this?

Iiiiieeeewwwwwww....

How gray is your gray water? Mine is usually black and soupy.
Why not run the grey water through a filter and then circulate what you've got left in the tank of the cooler? A gasoline fuel filter inline with a pump would do the trick and you could use gravity to feed the process instead of a pump even. Just put your feeder tank up on your car roof.
Because what gets through the filter will make you very sick. :(
Now if you ran it through a solar still first... Hmmm... *gets back to work on his "artificial tree" still* ;)

-Badger
Arrrggg!! Avast ye fucking fluffy bunny shirtcockers! Haul your drunken hairy fat ass out of our sight or prepare to receive a hot buttered hedgehog fired up your aft quarters!

Honey Badger don't care. Honey Badger don't give a shit!

User avatar
FIGJAM
Posts: 10541
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:39 am
Location: apache junction az.

Post by FIGJAM » Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:56 pm

Aye Aye Capt.

If you cant kill whats in the water, it might kill you!
"Don't buy ur Burn...........Build ur Burn!"

"If I can't find an answer, I'll create one!!!"

Fuck Im Good Just Ask Me

User avatar
kman
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:27 pm
Location: Studio City, CA

Post by kman » Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:25 pm

I've read reports of people who have done it, but you need to use chlorine to kill anything in the water first. And anything that lives could be a big problem, since you're atomizing it for perfect inhalability.

Not worth the risk or hassle, IMO. There are better ways of dealing with gray water.

ConnieH
Posts: 295
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:41 pm
Location: Idaho

Post by ConnieH » Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:12 am

we might (*MIGHT*) use treated (and somewhat "clean" grey water - no icky meat cooler water), but I might be inclined to buy ice and melt it before I went that far (expensive, but clean).

I wonder what the difference is between stream water that probably had cows and/or deer or other animals pooping and peeing in it, and possibly dying in it, etc., and shower water with human skin cells and bodily fluids? If grey water is treated properly, like when you are backpacking and using stream water, it could be ok...

This is an interesting read on the subject:

http://www.princeton.edu/~oa/manual/water.shtml

We were going to attach a filter to our reserve tank, but it got too cumbersome and the filter I have doesn't look like it would remove as many microorganisms as bleach or boiling, so I'm not going to bother with it.

Post Reply

Return to “Keeping Cool”