Help needed w/ pickup mods for non-playa journey (Bay Area)

LadyVroom · Post by **LadyVroom** » Fri May 06, 2011 11:58 am

Hello Wonderful BM community!

Sadly I will miss the playa this year. Last year was fantastic in ways words cannot describe. I'll be with you in spirit.

But, I have a good excuse: I'm traveling the entire Pacific Coast, from Alaska to Chile, in search of personal stories of transformation through a challenging life drama. It's called the SpokenCoast Project.

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/TheSpokenCoast
Website: http://www.spokencoast.org/ (still under construction)

THE ASK: two pickup modifications. I figured the crafty BM community could help with these kinda things. The original person who agreed bailed on me. I have 5 weeks til I leave the bay area, and I"m kinda desperate.

1) 2ND BATTERY SYSTEM (must have): a second battery rigged to aid in starting the 1st battery if it fails, but not drain off 1st battery. 2nd battery also needs voltage converter to wire a power strip off the dash for all my computer & camera appliances. A "nice to have" addition would be a 2nd power strip in the truckbed for same appliances. Here is a link to someone who did it: http://www.bajataco.com/dualbatts/dualbatteries01.html I will buy all materials & have some $$ to pay modestly the person for this setup. If you don't have the mojo, but you know someone who might, _please_ feel free to pass me some names & numbers. I need all the leads I can get.

2) EL WIRE DESIGN (nice to have) an EL wire-based design of the project logo, and any other silly things on the outside of the pickup that would hook into above 2nd battery, for nighttime display as I travel the coast. I will buy all materials, and can help build it. A nice dinner on me for your time & efforts

Thank you kindly in advance for any suggestions, leads, help, moral support you can offer. I really appreciate it!

Deadline: June 8th (in Bay Area)

I'll be in Seattle area around June 20-July 4th, if anyone up there can do the work.

Humbly yours,
LadyVroom

PS: Hugs!

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:27 pm

Usually the second battery is used as the auxiliary and the main is preserved for starting.
There are a variety of ways to wire them.
An isolator is a good idea, and I have seen some additional protections suggested.

Some batteries can be used for both cranking and cycling, like the optima deep style.
I recommend the blue marine type, if you use those.
If using the same type, make sure to buy matched batteries, age, lot number, everything.

I have had good luck using commercial truck batteries for cycling, as they are high capacity and relatively cheap.
Unless space is an issue, both batteries can be mounted in the rear.

Batteries still need to be vented.

LadyVroom · Post by **LadyVroom** » Fri May 06, 2011 1:22 pm

Thanks for your contributions, gyre. The guy at bajataco mentions some of these issues too. But I've never heard of mounting them both in the rear before.

I'm wondering if I didn't make it clear though, in my post, that I'm not able to do this work on my own? I know nothing about this stuff, and I'm swamped with other trip prep.

Do you know someone in the bay who could help do this work for me?

Many thanks,
LV

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Fri May 06, 2011 1:25 pm

I know someone with a shop in oakland.

There are bound to be others.

I'm too far away.

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Fri May 06, 2011 1:28 pm

Rear mounting allows you to use any odd size, like the commercial truck batteries or even larger, or any replacment you might have to use.
It's better for weight distribution too and makes service in the front far easier.
It may not be suitable for you with all your cargo.

can't sit still · Post by **can't sit still** » Fri May 06, 2011 5:37 pm

Lady Vroom, I worked as an engineer for Sportscoach Corp. I designed the charging system when we changed over to the more aerodynamic Sportcoach II.
There are 2 basic systems for charging 2 [or more] batteries. The first system uses a continuous-duty solenoid. When the switch is turned on the solenoid closes and makes contact. The best system is a rocker switch that has an "on" position and a "momentary" position. #1 battery is connected to one side of the rocker switch. #2 battery is connected to the second terminal of the rocker switch. The common is the trigger wire to the solenoid. Looks like this;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Truck ... 35af341d90

If you leave the headlights on and kill the #1 battery, you can click "momentary" and power the solenoid from the #2 battery. If you leave the stereo on and kill the #2 battery, the #1 battery will still power the solenoid / starter. It's actually a very simple system. The disadvantage of the solenoid system is that it tends to overcharge to "good" battery while it is charging up the "low' battery.

The second system used is a charge-dividing system. It uses diodes to isolate the high battery from the low battery while charging. Looks like this;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boat-Dua ... iesQ5fGear

The charge isolator will charge the batteries equally. The solenoid system allows you to start the engine off the second battery if the main is dead. The isolator system will not do this. I designed the Sportscoach with both systems.

I can give you a bit of advice on your trip. I drove to Alaska 7 times and drove to Peru once. Once was enough. I also spent 10 years driving around Mexico in the winter.
If you want some inspiration, there is a very interesting family that I have corresponded with;
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... going.html
"THREE AMERICAS" <three_americasatyahoodotcom>

You're going to need plenty of money. If you stay in poor areas, you'll get ripped off. If you stay in affluent areas, you won't get ripped off, but, you'll go broke. I was stuck in Lima with no money. If you're going south of the Rio Bravo, you MUST read Carl Franz's book;
http://books.google.com/books?id=qx0eMw ... &q&f=false
Buen Viaje. and
Hugs, Dan

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Fri May 06, 2011 6:34 pm

http://www.xor.org.uk/silkroute/

What van?
This can help you find other rough travel tips.

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Fri May 06, 2011 7:08 pm

Handy Travel Phrases

"May I borrow a towel to wipe up the blood?"

"What kind of meat is this?"

"Do not make me angry."

"Please forgive me, and accept this money/camera/watch as a gift."

"Do you know a place where I can hide?"

"You will never make me talk."

Joshua Piven and David Borgenicht have given us a new 'worst case survival' guide. This one deals with TRAVEL. Worst Case TravelI like it, because it is fun to imagine how I would out maneuver a lava flow or survive a fall onto the subway tracks ... and, then flip to where the experts tell us how to do it ... was I so foolish as to think that I could run faster than a downhill-bent river of molten rock ... or, that those red and white lines meant something other than 'hey, this train is gonna whizz by with but inches from these candy stripes'?

Fortunately, there are only one or two really useful sections; but, once you get past those boring bits on kicking through a closet wall to escape a hotel fire or how to kill small animals with artfully propped up stones, you can see if your gut reaction would have pulled you up alive from any of these more exciting hazards of the less traveled road ... How to Navigate a Minefield ... How to Survive in a Plummeting Elevator ... or, How to Cross a Piranha-Infested River.

The chapter entitled "People Skills" ... aside from addressing the obvious need to keep your cool in a hostage situation or, how to make yourself less visible in a riot situation ... gives some perceptive (even if not actually learned) tips on How to Foil a UFO Abduction.
_____________________________________________

The team that brought you The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook now helps you navigate the perils of travel. Learn what to do when the tarantula crawls up your leg, the riptide pulls you out to sea, the sandstorm's headed your way, or your camel just won't stop.

Find out how to pass a bribe, remove leeches, climb out of a well, survive a fall onto subway tracks, catch a fish without a rod, and preserve a severed limb. Hands-on, step-by-step instructions show you how to survive these and dozens of other adventures. An appendix of travel tips, useful phrases, and gestures to avoid will also ensure your safe return. Because you just never know...

Joshua Piven and David Borgenicht, authors of The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook series, live life on the edge in the wilds of Philadelphia.

HOW TO PASS A BRIBE

1. If you are hassled by an official, be friendly, but aloof.
Do not show concern or act surly. Remain calm and good-natured. Try to determine if there is an actual problem or if the official is seeking some additional, unofficial compensation.

2. Never blatantly offer a bribe.
If you have misinterpreted the official's intentions, you may get yourself in additional trouble by overtly offering a bribe.

3. If you are accused of an infraction, ask to pay a fine on the spot.
Say that you would rather not deal with the mail or go to another location, citing your fear that the payment will get lost. Mention that you want to make sure the money gets to the proper person.

4. Try to speak to and deal with only one official.
Speak to the person who acts as though he/she is in charge. If you offer money to a junior officer while a superior is present, the superior may demand more.

5. Offer to make a "donation" to the official's organization.
Say that you would like to pay for gas, uniforms, car repairs, expenses, or other needs.

6. If you do not have cash, be prepared to offer goods instead.
Watches, cameras, and other electronics are often accepted as bribes. You might consider offering goods instead of cash even if you have the money, particularly if the "problem" concerns these goods. If, for example, a customs official tells you that you are transporting too many bottles of liquor, you might speed your trip and lighten your load by offering some of the items in dispute to the official.

HOW TO ESCAPE FROM THE TRUNK OF A CAR

1. If you are in a trunk that has no wall separating the backseats and the trunk, try to get the seats down.
Although the release for most seats is inside the passenger compartment, you may be able to fold or force them down from the trunk side. (If not, continue to step 2.)

2. Check for a trunk cable underneath the carpet or upholstery.
Many new cars have a trunk release lever on the floor below the driver's seat. These cars should have a cable that runs from the release lever to the trunk. Look for the cable beneath carpeting or upholstery, or behind a panel of sheet metal. If you locate the cable, pull on it to release the trunk latch. (If not, continue to step 3.)

3. Look for a tool in the trunk.
Many cars have emergency kits inside the trunk, underneath or with the spare tire. These kits may contain a screwdriver, flashlight, or pry bar. Use a screwdriver or pry bar to pry the latch open. You can also pry the corner of the trunk lid up and wave and yell to signal passersby. (If there is no tool, continue to step 4.)

4. Dismantle the car's brake lights by yanking wires and pushing or kicking the lights out.
Then wave and yell to signal passersby or other cars. This method is also recommended if the car is moving and you need to signal cars behind you.

Additional reading
The Paranoidâ€™s Pocket Guide: Hundreds of things you never knew you had to worry about
by Cameron Tuttle ISBN 0-8118-1665-6

http://www.chroniclebooks.com/Chronicle ... 10-e0.html
http://www.chroniclebooks.com/index/mai ... ts_id,163/

LadyVroom · Post by **LadyVroom** » Mon May 09, 2011 11:34 pm

Thanks so much gyre & can't sit still for your incredible advice! The website on the silkroad really helped. Another friend-of-a-friend told me about keeping the two systems separate. He said there is often problems of one or the other battery either not fully charging, or accidently draining as a result of kinks in the system.

The Zapp family story is something else, too!

can't sit still - which of the 2 systems do you recommend for a pickup? Space is not nearly as prevalent as in an RV. If it were you, which one would you pick?

Also -- what do you think about using 2 deep cycle batteries, instead of a regular car battery & a deep cycle? The Bajataco guy seemed to use 2 different models of the same brand's deep cycle battery: http://www.bajataco.com/dualbatts/dualbatteries01.html

He suggested that there were deep cycle batteries on the market that could also handle the quick discharge needed to start the vehicle. Thoughts?

Also - thanks for the tips on the cheap versus expensive places to stay in Mexico & beyond. I haven't planned that far ahead yet, but as I drive closer, I'll do more research. I'm also considering heavily using couchsurfing.org as a way to find places to stay. This will also aid me in meeting locals for the book interviews.

Gracias,
LV

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Tue May 10, 2011 12:13 am

I don't consider it one or the other.
I would use diodes for sure, unless you will never have both batteries charging or even cranking simultaneously.
The solenoids or relays are only switches and the controls mentioned are fancier controls for the switches.
They can also be mechanical, and operated by you.

I found a good article on dual batteries recently.
I don't have the link, but I think it was related to using batteries for radio use.
It was exceptionally good.
It mentioned failure of diodes and recommended a backup.
I can't recall the extra step, but it may have been fusing or breakers.
An extensive search would bring the article up again.

Trailer Life has a good selection of books with good info on dual battery systems and other rv stuff.

I would use the marine deep cycle optima, if I were using a pair of them.
Ideally identical size, age and lot number.
There are better batteries, but they are good.

The optima deep cycle is identical to the cranking battery except for using thicker lead.
Their cranking power is low, but they have very low internal resistance, so fast recovery.

Most deep cycle are extremely simple and obsolete, so have little cranking power.

As a comparison, the cranking power on the truck battery I mentioned is twice the optima output.

Optimas can be held down at the base adequately.
A strap can be stronger though.

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Tue May 10, 2011 12:36 am

There is a radiant vented gas heater without a fan.
Maybe two models.

There is a usa made electric mattress pad, AC DC.

can't sit still · Post by **can't sit still** » Tue May 10, 2011 7:08 am

Ladyvroom, I would use both systems together. The parts are only as big as a couple sort-drink cans. The battery will take more space. The Optima can be mounted on it's side or whatever it fits. It could be mounted under the bed of the PU. I would definitely use one start battery and one deep cycle battery. I imagine that you'll be parked for days at a time and using electronics for your writing. It would be smart to carry a small battery charger to keep charged while parked. It wastes a lot of gas to run the main motor just to charge the batts.

gyre · Post by **gyre** » Tue May 10, 2011 11:01 am

Because of the similarity of the optima cranking and deep cycle batteries, the difference in cranking power between the two is minimal, but complicates charging to a serious degree, being different enough to alter internal resistance.
My advice comes direct from an engineer with optima, though others might have a different opinion.
Using matched batteries is very important, even to age, manufacture and lot number.
The reasons for using matched batteries in battery packs apply, even though this is not a series application.
It is just that such an approach is ineffective with weaker deep cycle batteries.

Other batteries would have to be examined individually for this approach.
It is not a blanket recommendation for all deep cycles.