cooling your tent or van

Solito · Post by **Solito** » Mon May 02, 2011 10:05 am

mommaratkins - I'm showing up in my car solo as well and worried about sleeping in my car initially - especially since my body runs on the hot/sweaty side I figure it'll be literally impossible for me to sleep in there during day hours. eplaya had many posts beyond this thread to read about it. Shades for the car are definitely not enough to make a car interior bearable during the day. I doubt anything will work well for such a small and awkward space with a metal roof.

No coolers for me since that's alot of stuff for a solo act, but I figured I'd just nap in the shade offered elsewhere in the public spaces and lock my bike up - earplugs in and daybag as a pillow. From what I gather, napping at night should be a cinch just about anywhere if you are prepped right - lights, a throw/towel/coat, tolerance of the unknown, water, and some reasonably clear judgement...

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Mon May 02, 2011 11:27 am

I don't think you could sleep in any closed space during the day without some cooling.

mommaratkins · Post by **mommaratkins** » Tue May 03, 2011 8:20 am

i was afraid of that. im sure it would be too hot to sleep in my car during the day, and from what ive heard of the dust, i probably dont even want to open my car up too much anyway. thanks, i just wanted to know if i HAD to bring a tent. and its nice to know that im not the only one venturing alone.

ConnieH · Post by **ConnieH** » Tue May 03, 2011 10:16 am

Bring a tent or find shade to nap in like Solito suggests. My first year we rolled through the gate at 7am after driving all night. We promptly found our camp and everyone was asleep and we didn't know where they wanted us to set up, so we sacked out in the car. By 11am the heat woke us up - even with the windows down, it was getting hot quick. Unless you have something to shade your car, sleeping in there during the day likely won't work - and if you have something to shade your car, you'd be better off just taking a nap under that

phil · Post by **phil** » Wed May 04, 2011 5:49 pm

Some suggestions from the BMOrg blog.
http://blog.burningman.com/environment/ ... l-comfort/

BMOrg bloggers may also want to see
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bob-Lobla ... 7652122718

blah blah blah

Tyer · Post by **Tyer** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:36 pm

FIGJAM wrote:The pump I will use this one.http://www.discount-pumps.biz/low_voltage_pumps.htm

it uses .2 amps so the total power draw will be .7 amps. With a 45 amp hour battery 25 to 50 hours. Figure 3 to 4 hours extra sleep in the mournings or afternoon naps, should last all week.

There are many pumps listed on this page. Note that only the ones listed under "Inline DC Pumps (Battery or Solar) will work - the others require 12 volts AC (as is provided by Malibu-type yard lighting systems) - DC from a battery won't work. The DC pumps are a lot pricier - $57 to $91 on this page.

I got a Harbor Freight solar fountain pump (http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-powe ... 66093.html) for $20 and used that pump. Note that it runs on only 6 volts, so you'll need a lower voltage supply of some sort (I used a 5V switching regulator). Or, just use the pump as intended with its attached solar cell.

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:43 pm

This is the pump I like best and it is 12 volt DC.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

DennisDashing · Post by **DennisDashing** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:54 pm

FJ,
is there any reason to leave this outside? could i keep it inside the structure therefor re-cooling already cool air?

Tyer · Post by **Tyer** » Wed May 04, 2011 7:35 pm

FIGJAM wrote:I had posted that prior to testing, then found out it was 12vac.

It was talked about later in the thread. :oops:

This is the pump I like best and it is 12 volt DC.

http://www.siliconsolar.com/replacement ... p-103.html

Yes, I saw that pump too - great deal! I bought 3 of 'em!

Tyer · Post by **Tyer** » Wed May 04, 2011 7:44 pm

DennisDashing wrote:FJ,
is there any reason to leave this outside? could i keep it inside the structure therefor re-cooling already cool air?

Sadly, that won't work for very long. Swamp coolers work best when the humidity is low (the 5-15% on the playa is ideal). However, they work by evaporating water into the air, thus raising the humidity. If there's just one pass of the cooled air through the shelter, the cooler is always sucking in fresh dry air. However, if the air is recirculated, the humidity will just continue to climb until A) the cooler doesn't cool any more, and B) the interior of the shelter becomes a sticky, inhospitable place to be.

There is another method, in which the chilled water (not the air) is run through a heat exchanger inside the shelter. That way, no water is introduced into the interior, and the interior air can then be recirculated. I've tried this, and it works, but some cooling efficiency is lost, and the single pass method of just blowing the cool air through works at least as well, by my perception.

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Wed May 04, 2011 10:16 pm

DennisDashing wrote:FJ,
is there any reason to leave this outside? could i keep it inside the structure therefor re-cooling already cool air?

This question gets asked a lot so heres the science.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler

chasomatic · Post by **chasomatic** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:01 pm

I just got a Solar powered fountain pump from Harbor Freight. It was under $10 and easily pumps past the height of the bucket. Comes with it's own power supply. I'm using a car vent fan from Amazon for the 12v air mover. I tested one by continuously running it for 2 weeks off my solar system. Draws about 0.26 amps so it's easy to power. One 15 watt panel and a battery will keep the system running for the whole burn.

Post by **Elderberry** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:33 pm

chasomatic wrote:I just got a Solar powered fountain pump from Harbor Freight. It was under $10 and easily pumps past the height of the bucket. Comes with it's own power supply. I'm using a car vent fan from Amazon for the 12v air mover. I tested one by continuously running it for 2 weeks off my solar system. Draws about 0.26 amps so it's easy to power. One 15 watt panel and a battery will keep the system running for the whole burn.

How will you keep the dust, which turns to gunk when wet, from clogging the pump?

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:43 pm

jkisha wrote:
chasomatic wrote:I just got a Solar powered fountain pump from Harbor Freight. It was under $10 and easily pumps past the height of the bucket. Comes with it's own power supply. I'm using a car vent fan from Amazon for the 12v air mover. I tested one by continuously running it for 2 weeks off my solar system. Draws about 0.26 amps so it's easy to power. One 15 watt panel and a battery will keep the system running for the whole burn.
How will you keep the dust, which turns to gunk when wet, from clogging the pump?

The dust pracipitates to the bottom of the cooler into a layer and does'nt clog the pumps, but you can wrap the pump in a bindle to act as a filter if you're worried about that.

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Sun May 08, 2011 10:08 am

30,000 view bump!

Martiansky · Post by **Martiansky** » Wed May 11, 2011 6:28 am

chasomatic wrote:I just got a Solar powered fountain pump from Harbor Freight. It was under $10 and easily pumps past the height of the bucket. Comes with it's own power supply. I'm using a car vent fan from Amazon for the 12v air mover. I tested one by continuously running it for 2 weeks off my solar system. Draws about 0.26 amps so it's easy to power. One 15 watt panel and a battery will keep the system running for the whole burn.

Thats a good price for that pump! I just checked the price for it today on harbor freight and its "on sale" for $19.99!

Mojojita · Post by **Mojojita** » Mon May 16, 2011 5:31 pm

Figgy, are you using the replacement solar pump with a battery or solar panel? If panel, which one? Is the harbor freight solar pump beefy enough for the box cooler?

You finally got me! I HAVE to build one for one of the yurts! If I can figure out a way to vent one to the outside in the RV, I'll put one there too (we don't use the genny).

daft · Post by **daft** » Mon May 16, 2011 6:21 pm

Are you using a car battery? Tried to charge it with a solar panel?

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Mon May 16, 2011 6:49 pm

Mojojita wrote:Figgy, are you using the replacement solar pump with a battery or solar panel? If panel, which one? Is the harbor freight solar pump beefy enough for the box cooler?

You finally got me! I HAVE to build one for one of the yurts! If I can figure out a way to vent one to the outside in the RV, I'll put one there too (we don't use the genny).

I use a 105AH deka AGM deep cycle battery.

I can run the cooler on low speed for about 40 hours before it needs to be recharged.

If you have a shelf in front of one of the windows in the RV, open that window to the width of the cooler, then press the cooler against that open window, the same way mine is against the hatch in the playapod.

You may need some of that peal and stick foam weather stipping from home depot to create a good seal. (I did'nt need that because the cooler fit flush with the wall.)

Then open another window in the opposite end of the RV just a little so the cool air can flow through the space.

The hf solar pump should be ok, but if it's hot and cloudy..... thats why I run mine on the battery.

PM me if you need help.

daft · Post by **daft** » Mon May 16, 2011 7:47 pm

Yea, deep cycle for sure. I do take an RV, and typically close it up to keep the alkali factor (playa dust) mitigated, and hang out in the shade of it in the afternoon. Like your idea though.

Mojojita · Post by **Mojojita** » Tue May 17, 2011 12:58 pm

I am going to do some serious head scratching regarding how to rig the rv for the box cooler - I think maybe one of the front windows by driver or passenger may be best as they are the only ones where I would not have to actually cut away screen to get a seal - other windows are also way too tall. It's an old GMC with acres of glass.

Thanks Figgy for your offer of help....I will shamelessly pick your brain.

unjonharley · Post by **unjonharley** » Tue May 17, 2011 3:18 pm

Mojojita wrote:I am going to do some serious head scratching regarding how to rig the rv for the box cooler - I think maybe one of the front windows by driver or passenger may be best as they are the only ones where I would not have to actually cut away screen to get a seal - other windows are also way too tall. It's an old GMC with acres of glass.

Thanks Figgy for your offer of help....I will shamelessly pick your brain.

Those cheap solor car window fans come with some pretty good window forming sealing stripes..

Age · Post by **Age** » Wed May 18, 2011 10:24 am

Anybody have a good on-line source for evaporative cooler pads that hold up well to the dust? Over here in GA our local hardware stores don't carry them, and I'd rather not wait till getting to the playa, so I'd like to order some online preferably from a source that someone's had good experience with....

I actually tried to build the bucket model right before BM last year, but the company I ordered the pads from sent the wrong item, and then it was too late. Starting earlier this year just in case, and probably switching to the new design

PS - Thanks Figjam, this thread continues to rock!

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Wed May 18, 2011 10:41 am

Scroll down to the duracool pads.

http://www.dialmfg.com/Pads%20&%20Rolls.html

or here.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BODTTY/ref ... B000BODTTY

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Sun May 22, 2011 6:23 am

Be sure to test your pump!

I found out that mine pumps water whichever way I hook the leeds, but one way pumps twice as much water as the other.

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Sun May 22, 2011 5:43 pm

Here's the best way I've found to vent the bucket cooler into the space you want to cool.

This will work with any 120mm fan.

This is a fan that Connie found and I really like it for the bucket cooler.

http://www.axiontech.com/prdt.php?item=57484

A 4 inch septic pipe conector is 4 1/2 inches inside diameter so I Gooped it to the lid.

Notice the perfect size for the 120mm fan!

Now any length of 4 inch septic pipe can go in this.

DO NOT GLUE THE PIPES TOGETHER!!!! That way you can change it up anyway you like.

Add a 90.

This is how I did it for my truck.

If you need it, those vent conectors sleve into the 4 inch pipe perfectly.

This fan pushes some good air!

Hope this makes your venting easier.

FIGJAM · Post by **FIGJAM** » Tue May 24, 2011 6:03 am

"Somebody said cooler?" bump

Foxfur · Post by **Foxfur** » Fri May 27, 2011 6:09 pm

In the truck. I love it.
Thanks for posting so many pictures.
Words are never enough it seems.
Keep it up.

Ff

BaconHand · Post by **BaconHand** » Sun May 29, 2011 10:53 pm

Just started on my swamper for 2011; using a 22 gallon tote, endless breeze fan, pump from siliconsolar.com, and haven't chosen a battery yet. I'll be out on the playa for 12 days this year, so comfort (at least part of the time) is a must.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

Pictures to come in the next few days.

sjs · Post by **sjs** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:18 pm

Token wrote:@FigJam. If you really want to geek out, I got some dangerous words for you that can keep you busy for a while.

Water Efficiency
Dew Point
Semi-closed System

You can probably cut down water use to a fraction if you use block ice in the design.

Phase change works in both directions so long as you can remove heat out of the system (that would be the block ice part)

I'm curious what you're thinking here. Would putting block ice into the evaporator really give much of a gain in efficiency? What about dry ice?

I also wonder whether insulating the bucket and/or elevating it off of the playa would help.

cooling your tent or van

car cooling

location

Re: location

Re: location

elecricity