Honda Generator Owners...

[Martiansky]

Thanks, JK.

[Foxfur]

Good thread.
Yggy tipped me off to a good price on the EU2000i. I've been lusting after one for years. Since I got my li'l 13 ft Casita I see it as mandatory. Just the right size and output for my needs. My primary reason for buying Honda is reliable power. The second reason is the inherent love thy neighboritude of the design. I camp in remote areas off logging roads in the coast range mtns. Sometimes won't see anyone for a couple days. But, what if I didn't know someone else was camped nearby and I'm running the 5KW big box special? I bet it'd annoy the hell outta them. I'd be annoyed. With the 2000i I can sit back fat, dumb, and happy and know I'm not ruining anything for anybody. I can run a rice maker and window AC unit at any hour I choose to.
That's the America I know.

I'd seen JK's listing of model number identifiers but had forgotten he'd had a link as well.
I found this at another site:

Honda Model Number Breakdowns

Honda generator numbers look like EM5000SXK2A EANC-1000001. These numbers
are all located on a tag, on the generator frame.

The first spot E is for Honda Generator, all Honda generators start with E.

The next spot M denotes the generator style: B = construction, D = DC battery charging,
G = economy, M = deluxe, N = economy, P = economy, S = liquid cooled (except
ES3500 and ES4000), V = rv, W = welder/generator, U = ultra quiet, X = extra quiet, Z =
economy.

If there is another letter after the last spot: D = 120/240 rv generator (EVD4010), S =
electric starter (EMS4500), W = welder (EXW171).

The next spot 5000 is the maximum wattage or amperage.
The next spot S is the generator or starter type: S = electric starter, i = inverter type, c =
cycloconverter type, D = diesel, GP = gaseous powered, C = made in China.

The next spot X is the engine type. If it is blank = side valve, X = OHV.
The next spot K2 is the generator version.
The next spot A denotes the market. A is for the USA market, all generators sold in the
USA should end with A.

The last set of numbers is the generator serial numbers EANC-1000001.
From http://www.wisesales.com/HondaGenNEW.html

Ff

[oneeyeddick]

And BTW, those eu2000i types are supposed to run on 87 octane gas for maximum effeciency, with only 10% or less methanol in the mix.

It's in the manual but no one ever reads those.

[ygmir]

And BTW, those eu2000i types are supposed to run on 87 octane gas for maximum effeciency, with only 10% or less methanol in the mix.

It's in the manual but no one ever reads those.

I read it...........

[oneeyeddick]

Me too...I do all my reading when I am sitting down....it helps me "relax"

[Marscrumbs]

After the first year I got a slight hotter plug for my Yamahi EF1000si. It funs more better now and doesn't foul.

[Stickygreen]

After the first year I got a slight hotter plug for my Yamahi EF1000si. It funs more better now and doesn't foul.

really..?

that must be one really fun Yamahi .

[Foxfur]

Well well well. Look what I dug up. Knew I had it around...
I think Crumby's erratic operation has been caused by a li'l oversight.

Uncle Shecky's Public Safety Campaign Bulletin #21
Publication Date: 06 December 2010
Products Affected: 1
Model: MK IV Goyim

DO NOT install a hotter spark plug in the MK IV Goyim yarmulke.
User reports indicate a dramatic increase in unplanned seizures, involuntary soiling, and esophagal matzo obstruction. Please use only an OEM approved sparkplug and no other. Please contact our service department to order approved parts or to speak with our factory trained staff about this PSC bulletin or to share nyatam recipes.

Uncle Shecky's INC will not be liable for the customers failure to adhere to the guidelines issued in PSC bulletins. By reading this bulletin you agree to these terma and any terms adopted in the future whether published or not. Your mother told you that you should know these things. Don't be a schlemiel. Listen to your mother, putz.

Uncle Shecky's Tinef Chazzerai MFG INC.

[oneeyeddick]

I have never had a problem with the stock plug fouling up my Yamaha, be sure to use 87 octane gas and you prolly won't either.

[Rusted Iron]

We have been using an eu3000 for nine years. This may not be a problem with the newer models but ours run too hot when they are enclosed. If it sits too close to the playa, on plywood, it clogs up quickly. It runs fine sitting on top of a wide open flatbed trailer.

[mloftis]

The intake uses four AC muffin fans rated somewhere around 107cfm... not sure what their mmHG rating is. The intake filter is a large FRAM CA7640 which is used on large diesel engines, Dodge and Bobcat I think. The exhaust is a 9" baffled roof vent for a house. Everything was gorilla glued and screwed together- overbuilt for the playa. It will fit both the 1000i (as pictured) and the 2000 should I end up getting one in the future. Trials have shown that the fans generate significant positive air pressure in the box, even with large volume of exhaust coming out the back, but I think I'm going to put some kind of seal around the lid.

I'm going to vandal proof it by running some 3' candy cane rebar though 1" holes in the bottom and probably put some kind of heavy duty latch with combo lock on the lid.

I guess this counts as my overkill be-all-end-all playa dust killer for my Honda. Hopefully I don't have to redesign it too much for next year's art project.

Pics:

My $0.04 (two things) -- that filter is technically backwards, probably doesn't matter since you're not pulling that much air through it and it filters the same either way (the metal grid keeps the 5.9L Cummins from inhaling the filter...most of the time) -- Also there's a little deeper version for the 6.7L Dodge Cummins (2007.5+) -- it's the same size square, but quite a bit deeper to flow more air. This has actually resulted in some people inadvertently popping the 5.9L filter into the 6.7L truck, with the result of a collapsed air filter. Mostly mention this for anyone wanting to build a similar box. The deeper 6.7L filter is Wix #46930, and the Wix # 49946 which is a 4" pleat for the 5.9L air filter housing (almost as big as the 6.7L part number, but cheaper)

The 5.9L 4" (2005 models) pleat Wix Filter # 49946 is usually around $26, vs $27+ for the older part number for the 1994/1995 dodge that isn't going to support nearly as much air flow.... 675CFM vs like 200CFM. It is a LOT deeper though than that Fram part number. The 6.7L Wix 46930 filter though is closer to $37. I don't know if Fram offers a 4" pleat for the 5.9L later models, but the 49946 is probably the best bet for anyone building a new box. You might design it so that it clamps the rubber gasket around the bottom (screwed/bolted wooden frame?) with the metal facing. You can protect the pleats by maxing the "frame" out of 2x4 lumber.

HTH someone! -- I own a 6.7L dodge, and have been around a LOT of older Dodges, but I did have to look up a bit. I definitely remembered that CA7640 part as being more expensive compared to the later filters for the 2005 era 5.9L which is what sent me looking for specifics.

[Elliot]

Hey Mloftis, welcome to Eplaya!

[mloftis]

Hey Mloftis, welcome to Eplaya!

Thanks! Autocorrect (tapped all that out on the tablet) beat me up on that reply a bit...but thankfully didn't kill the meaning.

[Foxfur]

I used my Honda 200 last year with great success. I used it about 3 hrs a day every other day. I colocated it with the C.O.'s (M.A.S.H 4207 in Terminal City) who ran his damn near 24hrs a day. Neither had any trouble (except his starter rope broke, I tore it down and replaced it with 550 paracord), neither had to have the air filter replaced, etc. Granted, there weren't epic dust storms as in years past. I brought 11 gallons of gas and used less than 5. Only used it to top off my trailer battery.