HexaYurts

[FIGJAM]

I don't use any filter over my small window.

There is enough air being forced out when the cooler is on that the dust can't get in.

I think you would only need a filter when not running the cooler.

[Canoe]

Trailer is a no go, so I'm running out of time for the backup - a Yurt build.
Ordering, and receiving in time, the 6" tape appears to be an issue.

Tape question:

6 inch bi-directional filament tape where panels have a 1 inch gap leaves 2.5 inches gripping each panel.
With a mitred panel edge, call it zero gap:

• 6 inch tape gives 3 inches gripping each panel,
• 3 inch tape gives 1.5 inches gripping each panel,
• 4.5" tape made by doubled 3 inch tape overlapped by 1.5 inches, would have 2.25 inches gripping each panel (but is relying upon the grip of the tape-to-tape, in addition to tape-to-panel).

With the mitre edges, 6 inch would obviously be best, but would 3 inch filament tape be sufficient?
With 1.5 inches of tape gripping tape, is it advisable/reliable to double/overlap 3 inch tape to make 4.5 inch tape?
Anyone have experience with the 3 inch on mitred panels?
Or with doubling the 3 inch?

Thanks,

[Elderberry]

Here are my thoughts on it.

Why is ordering 6" tape a problem? If you order here, you will have it in two days. http://www.findtape.com

The problem with 3" tape for assembling on the playa is wind, even a slight breeze could mess up your alignment especially when assembling the roof, and you don't have a lot of leeway for errors with 3" tape.

Mitered edges are a pain in the ass to make. If your planning on using the yurt for more than one year, I'm sure you'll find those edges to be a weak point. that material isn't the strongest to begin with, and and mitered edges just seem to me would easily be damaged.

[Canoe]

... Why is ordering 6" tape a problem? If you order here, you will have it in two days....

Because it's a shipment from the U.S. to Canada.
The shipping companies (not Customs) hold shipments at the border, ransoming them for a "broker's fee" (not the taxes/duty) of up to $150. Don't pay it; don't get your package. It's a real pain ordering a car part you can't get in Canada, only to have the shipping company demand a $150 surcharge saying, "well, do you want it or not?". Pay, and you're looking at a delay of up to a week from the time they got it to the border before the package move onwards. Then, if it's the company with the local depot whose drivers don't like delivering to residential addresses, once "out for delivery" on the truck, they have a multi-decade practice of training residential customers to not use them by not delivering and leave it on the truck for days. You have to keep close watch on the tracking and phone the local depot and request that they hold it at the depot for you to pickup. This works fine, except that packages are not supposed to be left on the trucks, so the package is not where it's supposed to be, so it takes them a number of days to locate the package. Once they find the package, all is good; you go to the depot and in five minutes you've got the package. 2-day shipping crossing the border can take one and a half to two and a half weeks...
Some U.S. companies, like J.C. Penny, have registered with Canada Revenue Agency so the vendor collects the sales type taxes when they process the order. Then they can ship to Canada and the 2-day service will take 3 to 4 days - but without a "broker's fee" ransom by the shipping company.
The solution many of us closer to the border use, is to have a U.S. shipping address. Works fine and you cross the border with your package so there's no screw-ups with Customs. You know you cross a lot when you expect to know the border staff. Only problem is the time to make the trip to the U.S. to pickup your package and hope the company that's the shipping address can find your package in their warehouse (stored under another name) so you don't have to make multiple trips to the U.S. to get the package.
Then there are the real screw-ups. There is a bicycle part that was shipped to me on July 12th. Following the online tracking, it keeps bouncing back and forth between Colorado and Ohio. It's been in Colorado four times and Ohio three times. It left Colorado yesterday and has a scheduled tracking update today. I'm betting it'll turn up in Ohio. The shipping company tells me they have the correct name and upper New York State address, where it was supposed to be July 15. It's traveled over 15,000 km so far. I already got another part. I'm curious to see if it actually gets delivered, and to where, or if the box falls apart first.
Yet, I can order a custom bicycle part from the U.K. and it's at my door in two days. I can order an e-bike battery controller from Hong Kong and its drive components are populated to provide the drive current I request, programmed for the cell voltage limits I choose, tested, and arrives at my door in three days. All without ransom.
Occasionally, for no apparent reason, a shipment will get through unmolested and the 2-day service will actually arrive in 3 to 4 days. This is an occasion for phoning friends to share the novelty.

So, trust that package roulette will get the 6" filament tape here before I leave to drive to BRC?
Not enough time.

[Korwedge]

The first year with my 6' yurt, I used two strips of 2 1/2" duct tape at each seam, then covered that with foil tape. The foil tape kept the sun off the duct tape and made it look super cool on the outside and light proof on the inside! While the taping took much longer, it was very strong and It did not come apart at all!

I would recommend this strategy if you can't order the 6" tape or you want to go with really cheap tape.

[Canoe]

The first year with my 6' yurt, I used two strips of 2 1/2" duct tape at each seam, then covered that with foil tape...

Thanks.
Well, I guess if the 6" doesn't get here in time, the 3" overlapped and protected by foil tape is the next best thing.
Relying upon "duct" tape in the heat just scares me.

When you look at the engineering of it, bi-directional filament tape with the long runs: a band wrapping around the top of the sides, and from the sides over the top to the other side ending in loops for guy lines - is just amazing. I've been looking at alternates that don't have to be refreshed every year, but nothing comes remotely close in strength or suitability.

And like taping glass windows for a big wind blow, taping an "X" corner to corner on a 4'x8' sheet (inside first, or both sides), or two 4'x4' "X"s on a 4'x8' side, would greatly increase the wind resistance strength for very little weight or cost. 3" tape bi-filament tape would work well for this.

[Freedyjay]

Anyone have any thoughts on where I could buy a used yurt? I'm going to be working like a dog up until I leave for the playa (if I want to be able to go at all) and sadly have no time to do the work involved in making one.

I'm looking for the smaller ones, I guess, and the only things I can find online are super expensive or something called a bjurt, which may or may not be as good.

Thanks!

[Canoe]

Anyone have any thoughts ... sadly have no time to do the work involved in making one. I'm looking for the smaller ones, I guess...

Don't know where you could buy one at this late stage, but...
if you want a folding one, that involves a fair amount of prep work and a trial run at home. Sounds like you don't have the time for that.

However, if something small is enough, like the 6' or 6' stretch, it shouldn't take more than an hour to go to the store (6' stretch I believe is seven sheets of 1"?), another two hours to cut the sheets and tape the edges (foil or filament tape). You don't have to think: the hexayurt site as instructions with layouts of sheets to cut and tape. At home you also need to cut any windows and a door, and tape those edges (remember to stay at least 6" from the edges). Better if you can do a trial assembly at home, but the rest is assembled on the playa.

You need something to bring the cut&taped pieces to BM. Enclosed in a truck/trailer, or two sheets of plywood to be the top and bottom of the pieces so they don't get blown apart on the top of the car, taped, tarped, ?. Search to get specifics.

You need supplies to take to the playa: enough 6" filament tape, tubes for the guylines and rope for guylines as well as "tent" pegs (orange survey stakes). If you don't have time for a trial assembly at home, read read read, and view the videos. If you're nice about it, once at PM you may even find experienced burners to help you assemble on playa. Find someone setting one up, offer to help hold things for them so you get to see what/how it is done (take it easy on the questions so you don't stress anyone). Watch/help with a few more, then go do yours?

After the burn, take it down, and at home before next year, turn it into a semi-folding with adding hinges to speed up the assembly for next year.

Good Luck!

[Elderberry]

I have a friend that is looking to sell his. He's in the Los Angeles area too. It's the standard size. PM me and I can put you in touch if you're interested.

Anyone have any thoughts on where I could buy a used yurt? I'm going to be working like a dog up until I leave for the playa (if I want to be able to go at all) and sadly have no time to do the work involved in making one.

I'm looking for the smaller ones, I guess, and the only things I can find online are super expensive or something called a bjurt, which may or may not be as good.

Thanks!

[big baby jesus]

You can have mine, I'm not going to bring it this year. My HXY has 6' sides and is constructed with 2' foam. Super comfortable. I just checked in and saw the thread on filters. I built a box utilizing two furnace filters for each side and it worked great. Would highly recommend it.

I give up on trying to post a picture of it. Below is a link.

[big baby jesus]

Forgot to mention... Mine is in my storage unit outside of Reno. I can only go for a few nights, so I'm going to bother with it.
The interior:

[Elite]

When you are setting up the hexayurtdo you have to tape all the hinges from the ouitside as a last step? Seems like this could get awkward w/ the roof panels. I know there has to be a strip joing the 2 half's, but do all the joints have to be taped also?

Elite

[Elderberry]

We do. Is it totally necessary? Don't know. But we like the idea of the full strip of tape going from one side to the other at each joint. And yes, it can be awkward if you are not prepared...we bring a squeegee on a long pole to be able to guide and smooth the tape.

When you are setting up the hexayurtdo you have to tape all the hinges from the ouitside as a last step? Seems like this could get awkward w/ the roof panels. I know there has to be a strip joing the 2 half's, but do all the joints have to be taped also?

Elite

[Canoe]

... do you have to tape all the hinges from the ouitside as a last step? ...

Not if the wind stays low, and the tape you have keeps any rain out.

We do. ... we like the idea of the full strip of tape going from one side to the other at each joint...

Continuous full strip from one side to the other is Astoundingly Stronger, and you tie it into the "handles" for the guy lines going out in line with these over-the-top tape strips - wind anyone?

Met two ladies last year who didn't and their yurt blew apart and away very early in the Burn. Instead of a spacious and cool hexayurt, they spent the Burn in a gifted pup tent; which because of shifts they were volunteering, this included trying to sleep during the day in a tent in the sun.
Would/could the same happen to yours? Don't know the details of the rest of their setup, but...

[kman]

Mitered edges are a pain in the ass to make. If your planning on using the yurt for more than one year, I'm sure you'll find those edges to be a weak point. that material isn't the strongest to begin with, and and mitered edges just seem to me would easily be damaged.

I'll certainly agree with the PITA aspect of mitered edges, unless you're fortunate enough to have access to the right right equipment and someone who really knows how to use it, but the end result is fantastic. Assembly takes a fraction of the time of the traditional models, and considering we have yurts going on their 4th year, I think you're overestimating the "weakness" of those edges. Normal care and feeding applies.

All 5 of these 10' (H15/Mark II) yurts will be back on the playa this year:





I strongly agree with the recommendation of continuous tape anchors that go all the way across. And stake those puppies down WELL. Some of the winds last year were impressive, and actually moved one of the yurts that was more "loosely" staked, picking the whole thing up and moving it a few inches. Cracked the top of the door panel (always the weakest point), but it made it through the rest of the event, since winds weren't as bad once the early storms went through. We definitely learned some lessons re waterproofing, too, with those rain storms.

[Elderberry]

Are these "pop up" yurts with the mitered edges?

Mitered edges are a pain in the ass to make. If your planning on using the yurt for more than one year, I'm sure you'll find those edges to be a weak point. that material isn't the strongest to begin with, and and mitered edges just seem to me would easily be damaged.

I'll certainly agree with the PITA aspect of mitered edges, unless you're fortunate enough to have access to the right right equipment and someone who really knows how to use it, but the end result is fantastic. Assembly takes a fraction of the time of the traditional models, and considering we have yurts going on their 4th year, I think you're overestimating the "weakness" of those edges. Normal care and feeding applies.

[kman]

Are these "pop up" yurts with the mitered edges?

Mitered edges are a pain in the ass to make. If your planning on using the yurt for more than one year, I'm sure you'll find those edges to be a weak point. that material isn't the strongest to begin with, and and mitered edges just seem to me would easily be damaged.

I'll certainly agree with the PITA aspect of mitered edges, unless you're fortunate enough to have access to the right right equipment and someone who really knows how to use it, but the end result is fantastic. Assembly takes a fraction of the time of the traditional models, and considering we have yurts going on their 4th year, I think you're overestimating the "weakness" of those edges. Normal care and feeding applies.

I believe the Appropedia site linked above (official site?) refers to them as "Semi-folding" or "Partial Folding" hexayurts.

http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_play ... g_Hexayurt

The walls are fully accordioned together, but the roof section is separate, and in two pieces for easier transport (so 3 pieces total). Tape bands across the center roofline (while still on the ground, so much easier), unfold the main wall structure (all one piece), and attach roof and tape anchors as usual.

[Elderberry]

OK. Thanks. I've also seen some done there with tape hinges and spacing of the hinges as opposed to mitering.
I think if one or our yurts comes to the point of needing replacement, we might experiment with one of those styles, though probably not the mitered hinges. We have the setup down pat with the original design and can get each one assembled in under an hour if there is no wind. And with everything else there is to do in preparing, experimenting with a different design is not at the top of our priority list right now.

[kman]

OK. Thanks. I've also seen some done there with tape hinges and spacing of the hinges as opposed to mitering.
I think if one or our yurts comes to the point of needing replacement, we might experiment with one of those styles, though probably not the mitered hinges. We have the setup down pat with the original design and can get each one assembled in under an hour if there is no wind. And with everything else there is to do in preparing, experimenting with a different design is not at the top of our priority list right now.

Understood.

Ours can be assembled in 15-20 minutes, depending on experience. The first one usually takes a longer than the last one, as you might guess. Only doing one or two, no big deal, but when you're helping put together 5 or more... an hour and a half of construction is a LOT preferable to nearly 5 hours of construction!

We were lucky enough to have a master carpenter in our group with a fully-equipped shop, full-size table saws, dust control systems, the works, so he did all of our mitering, else we would have tried one of the easier methods as well. Other than those tricky cuts, though, once that's taken care of, the partial folding yurts are almost as easy as the classic methods... and a LOT faster to set up on the playa.

As a tall guy, though, regardless, I have to say I LOVE the taller design. Adding those 2' sections to the walls made a huge difference in ease of entry, and makes them feel considerably more spacious inside, too.

[FIGJAM]

If you do the tapered edges, can you fold a piece of your super tape over the tapered edge to permanently protect it?

[Elderberry]

I'm just guessing here, as we haven't done the mitered edge thing (we don't have the table saw nor ever a place to keep or use one); but we use metal tape to protect the edges and to make repairs on the flat sides of our panels. I think I might try edging the miters with that, as it is thin, strong and precise.

[kman]

If you do the tapered edges, can you fold a piece of your super tape over the tapered edge to permanently protect it?

You protect the edges with tape same as with the classic designs. We also went a step further and used foil tape over the 6" 3M stuff, which adds UV protection to the tape. (not to mention being pretty and shiny LOL)

[big baby jesus]

I made mine with 6' sides and it was so comfortable. I also used 2" thick R-Max; very sturdy and stayed cool. I'm 6'3" and I found it really spacious. I had a six foot table that was my bar/kitchen. Very spacious and I'm glad I did it.

Here it is:
Here is the inside: and

[Elderberry]

We did the same thing for pretty much the same reason...didn't want to bend over. At my age bending over is not as easy as it once was. We use the 4' one for the bedroom and it's now connected to the 6' one; so I only have to bend over twice a day. Plus, the bedroom is literally dust free, as it is closed to the outside and air conditioned.

I made mine with 6' sides and it was so comfortable. I also used 2" thick R-Max; very sturdy and stayed cool. I'm 6'3" and I found it really spacious. I had a six foot table that was my bar/kitchen. Very spacious and I'm glad I did it.

Here it is:
Here is the inside: and

[Van]

Since I'm using 2 pieces of plywood as the outside of a sandwich to transport it, I am going to use them in construction as well. One will be attached to the wall panel containing the door, for extra strength. Opposite wall will also have plywood attached and a window or two. Those two panels will be the outer panels, wood side out to protect the entire pack.

I mitred for a better fit and thus better insulation. Wouldn't a shade cloth make these even cooler? I'm not seeing any pics with a shade cloth. Why? I think I am going that route.

[Elderberry]

You don't see them under shade structures because they don't need to be shaded. Just a waste of time and resources. Use your shade structure over the door side to give you a porch.

[rubenruben]

you can do most of it with one other person, maybe alone. you will need at least 4 people to lift the roof up, but will only take a couple minutes.

[Hondovious]

So I am ready to start doing some pre-assembly, and am trying to figure out the best way. I know I am going to do the semi-folding option with tape hinges for the roof. But I am building a yurt with 6' high walls and to make that semi-folding I would need to make my transport 'package' 6'x8' and that is more precarious to move not to mention more difficult to protect with plywood. I am wondering if I should just tape all of my edges for the walls at home and wait until I am on the playa to add the 2' to the walls and assemble them. Or should I leave one 8' section of each wall piece untaped on the edge since it might make a slightly more stable to put two raw sides together and then tape them on both sides? Thanks in advance for any advice..

[Elderberry]

That's what we do. We assemble the 4' wall. Then we assemble the 2' wall and attach the roof to the 2' wall. Then we raise the assembled "roof/2' wall" section and set it on top of the 4' wall base. And no, we haven't noticed any weakness by having the 2' sections all at the top as opposed to staggering them.

So I am ready to start doing some pre-assembly, and am trying to figure out the best way. I know I am going to do the semi-folding option with tape hinges for the roof. But I am building a yurt with 6' high walls and to make that semi-folding I would need to make my transport 'package' 6'x8' and that is more precarious to move not to mention more difficult to protect with plywood. I am wondering if I should just tape all of my edges for the walls at home and wait until I am on the playa to add the 2' to the walls and assemble them. Or should I leave one 8' section of each wall piece untaped on the edge since it might make a slightly more stable to put two raw sides together and then tape them on both sides? Thanks in advance for any advice..

[kman]

you can do most of it with one other person, maybe alone. you will need at least 4 people to lift the roof up, but will only take a couple minutes.

4 people is nice, but it can be done fairly easily with 3 reasonably-strong people as well. (meaning 3 small women of less-than-average strength would have a harder time of it)