HexaYurts

[yp983]

I'll be curious to hear how the magnet door latch works out. Please post your experience with this here after the burn.

Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.

I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:

I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.

Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!

I actually constructed one of these last night, and it works BEAUTIFULLY! It took some careful cutting to get the 45 degree cut on the door, but once that was done, I just "chiseled" some of the insulation material out, imbedded the magnet so that it was flush with the face of the edge, did the same on the door, and then ran a long strip of tape over the edge like you normally would. Once I finished taping the rest of the door and jamb and making the hinge, I tested it out and it works really really well. The door snaps open and closed, and my guess is that there is around 4-5 of holding force to overcome to open the door.

I didn't take any pictures because it was too dark, but I have 4 more to do so I'll make sure to take some pictures and share with anyone interested.

[yp983]

I'll be curious to hear how the magnet door latch works out. Please post your experience with this here after the burn.

Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.

I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:

I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.

Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!

I actually constructed one of these last night, and it works BEAUTIFULLY! It took some careful cutting to get the 45 degree cut on the door, but once that was done, I just "chiseled" some of the insulation material out, imbedded the magnet so that it was flush with the face of the edge, did the same on the door, and then ran a long strip of tape over the edge like you normally would. Once I finished taping the rest of the door and jamb and making the hinge, I tested it out and it works really really well. The door snaps open and closed, and my guess is that there is around 4-5 of holding force to overcome to open the door.

I didn't take any pictures because it was too dark, but I have 4 more to do so I'll make sure to take some pictures and share with anyone interested.

4-5 pounds, that is.

[Fidget Wigglesworth]

You are incredible!! Seriously awesome....

SO - The inherited yurt i've got hasn't been cleaned or maintained that well, however most of the triangle pieces (the sets of 2 right angles they put together) seem to be connected reasonably well, and the edges are still taped up from last year... but when i try to lift the tape or fuss with them a bit, seems like the tape could just peel right off.

My question is - Do I need to take all the tape off from previous years and retape ALL the edges, or could I leave them and tape over them? Im converting this yurt into a semi-folding yurt (2 main folding roof units and the 2 sets of wall units - danger style). I saw that one person mentioned it's necessary to take the tape off and they always do (because the new tape won't be able to really stick to the dusty old tape)... and that after you take the tape off, you need to use a "a light wire brush" to scrape off the old adhesive and wash it down a few times... What are your suggestions... should i just take the tape off and re-do it the right way? I have 5 rolls of the big 6" tape from goodguys so i should have plenty of tape either way - just wanna do whats best.

I thought I'd just be able to simply convert the old yurt as it said on appropedia pg - "You should already have all the edges of the raw material sealed with tape, so skip that part. You will make all the same tape hinges, but you probably only need to do "step one" or the "inseam" of all the hinges--step two of the hinges is always the "bookbinding" step, and is designed to seal the raw edges of the panels."

Whatya think?

[kman]

Winds blow HARD on the playa.

Those magnets had better be REALLY strong.

Right. Well, there are two things to worry about, the door blowing in, and the door blowing out. To prevent the door blowing in, I cut the door jamb at a 45 degree angle, so that the structure of the door jamb itself will keep the door from blowing in. Along with this, I taped thin, 4ft aluminum bars across the top and bottom edges where the 2 ft wide door are, so there is no concern of the door jamb opening and spreading. Therefore, the wind would essentially have to be strong enough to bust open any of the other 5 solid side panels to blow the door into the yurt. No problems here.

The only way for the door to blow open would be for the wind to generate pressure inside of the yurt sufficient to exceed the force it created on the outside of the door. I didnt build any windows, so the only way to build pressure would be to leak into the seams of the door. Since the surface are fo the seams is much less that that of the door, the wind force will work much harder at keeping the door closed, than opening it. Of course there is always the chance that the bernoulli principle will take effect, and the door will be sucked open, but being just a flat surface I doubt this will happen. Plus if it does, that means the wind is pulling away from the door, so no dust will get it, and so be it!

Sounds like a great idea! Combining it with the 45-degree angled door opening should help.

I have to replace my door panel next year anyway... I may just give this method a try. I'll still want an actual latch, but the magnets wont interfere with that.

I look forward, however, to confirmation of how well it works (or not), after the tires hit the road.

[Elderberry]

I a word, yes. If the tape is falling off or you can pull it off easily, remove it and replace it. There is no need to wire-brush the old adhesive based on our experience. We do, however, wash all the panels with soap and water after we strip off the old tape. Then we let the panels dry, repair any dents or stripped off foil with foil tape, then do any re-taping necessary. We tape the edges with foil tape. We tape the hinged panels with 6" bi-directional filament tape. Then we wrap everything up in a tarp and we're ready to hit the road!

You are incredible!! Seriously awesome....

SO - The inherited yurt i've got hasn't been cleaned or maintained that well, however most of the triangle pieces (the sets of 2 right angles they put together) seem to be connected reasonably well, and the edges are still taped up from last year... but when i try to lift the tape or fuss with them a bit, seems like the tape could just peel right off.

My question is - Do I need to take all the tape off from previous years and retape ALL the edges, or could I leave them and tape over them? Im converting this yurt into a semi-folding yurt (2 main folding roof units and the 2 sets of wall units - danger style). I saw that one person mentioned it's necessary to take the tape off and they always do (because the new tape won't be able to really stick to the dusty old tape)... and that after you take the tape off, you need to use a "a light wire brush" to scrape off the old adhesive and wash it down a few times... What are your suggestions... should i just take the tape off and re-do it the right way? I have 5 rolls of the big 6" tape from goodguys so i should have plenty of tape either way - just wanna do whats best.

I thought I'd just be able to simply convert the old yurt as it said on appropedia pg - "You should already have all the edges of the raw material sealed with tape, so skip that part. You will make all the same tape hinges, but you probably only need to do "step one" or the "inseam" of all the hinges--step two of the hinges is always the "bookbinding" step, and is designed to seal the raw edges of the panels."

Whatya think?

[Elderberry]

Well, it looks good on paper. Like Kman said, the wind blows hard out there and I'd still like to hear back after the design is playa tested. If it were me, I'd also have a backup plan like a latch or something that you could install if the wind becomes a problem.

I'll be curious to hear how the magnet door latch works out. Please post your experience with this here after the burn.

Thank you EVERYONE for your input regarding staking the yurt down.

I also wanted to share an idea I came up with regarding door latching.....not sure how well it will work yet, but I will be implementing this weekend and can update based on my success/failure:

I have built 4 semi-folding yurts for my camp (4 hinged pieces) and want to keep everything as 2 dimensional as possible so that everything stacks and there is very little on-playa assembly. I have been tossing around latch designs and couldn't settle on one. Then, it hit me...MAGNETS!!!! Home Depot sells these magnets in different sizes, and my plan is to "imbed" magnets into the cut faces of the door and door jamb so that the suface of the magnet is flush with the edge of the door. Then, I'll run one layer of the BF tape over it to keep it in place, and also seal the door edge. I figure one or two of these strong magnets around the center of the "normal door" (not flap that opens upwards, but sideways like a normal door) will be sufficient to hold it closed, and also not require any moving parts or special assembly. I'm also going to cut the vertical part of the door at a 45 degree angle to keep it from closing into the yurt from wind, and there should be no way that the wind
can open the door. Hm...we'll see.

Not sure if anyone else has already thought of or tried this, but let me know and I can share what I find this weekend!

I actually constructed one of these last night, and it works BEAUTIFULLY! It took some careful cutting to get the 45 degree cut on the door, but once that was done, I just "chiseled" some of the insulation material out, imbedded the magnet so that it was flush with the face of the edge, did the same on the door, and then ran a long strip of tape over the edge like you normally would. Once I finished taping the rest of the door and jamb and making the hinge, I tested it out and it works really really well. The door snaps open and closed, and my guess is that there is around 4-5 of holding force to overcome to open the door.

I didn't take any pictures because it was too dark, but I have 4 more to do so I'll make sure to take some pictures and share with anyone interested.

[yp983]

[quote="jkisha"]Well, it looks good on paper. Like Kman said, the wind blows hard out there and I'd still like to hear back after the design is playa tested. If it were me, I'd also have a backup plan like a latch or something that you could install if the wind becomes a problem.

A backup plan is never a bad idea. I will definitely let you guys know how it works out. Better yet, feel free to come by...I think our plan is something around 8:30 and G.

[Fidget Wigglesworth]

THANKS!
When you said that, "We tape the edges with foil tape. We tape the hinged panels with 6" bi-directional filament tape." -- does this mean that you don't tape the edges with the bi-directional tape - cuz everywhere it says tape all edges with bi-directional... or do you tape the edges with bi-directional tape and then cover it with the foil tape...

But if we can get away with just doing the edges with foil - and only the hinges for the roof, the hinges for the wall, and when connecting the wall and roof with bi-directional tape - - that'd be awesome.

Please let me know if this is what you mean...

Thanks so much for your help and patience. Massive hug when we bump into each other on some weird dragon or birthday cake cruising down the playa in the early morning of dust.

2) Oh lastly - when doing the "semi-folding" technique... do you have to "mind the gap" on the roof?
3) And... what size tarp do you guys use? Could we get away with plastic sheeting instead of the tarp..

thanks!!!

[kman]

THANKS!
When you said that, "We tape the edges with foil tape. We tape the hinged panels with 6" bi-directional filament tape." -- does this mean that you don't tape the edges with the bi-directional tape - cuz everywhere it says tape all edges with bi-directional... or do you tape the edges with bi-directional tape and then cover it with the foil tape...

But if we can get away with just doing the edges with foil - and only the hinges for the roof, the hinges for the wall, and when connecting the wall and roof with bi-directional tape - - that'd be awesome.

Please let me know if this is what you mean...

Thanks so much for your help and patience. Massive hug when we bump into each other on some weird dragon or birthday cake cruising down the playa in the early morning of dust.

2) Oh lastly - when doing the "semi-folding" technique... do you have to "mind the gap" on the roof?
3) And... what size tarp do you guys use? Could we get away with plastic sheeting instead of the tarp..

thanks!!!

1) Bi-filament, then foil. Foil is optional. Foil is weak. BiFi is strong.
2) Yes.
3) The size that's big enough to make it all the way across the floor, plus 6" on each side, in one continuous piece. Roughly 16x20, is the size we used.

Re tarp sizes, always look closely at the labels. There is a difference between "size" and "finished size". "Size" tends to be how big the raw tarp would have been... before they folded over the edges for reinforcement, added grommets, etc. If you need 16', be sure the finished size is 16', else you're likely to end up with 15' 6" or something like that.

[Elderberry]

We edge every edge of every panel with foil tape. This has nothing to do with construction or assembly. If we cut a panel in half to make the roof, all the edges are edged with foil tape.

All the actual construction is done with 6" bi-directional filament tape.

I can't speak to the semi-folding style as I'm not exactly sure what that is, we do some pre-taping of walls and roof. But I can speak to "minding the gap". This was the only instruction given that was really not the best way to make sure you have the correct gap when you finally get to the last panel. Here's the little trick we discovered that assures you will have the right gap when you're done without minding it at all.

Align the panels from the bottom as you go around adding panels for the roof and the top takes care of itself. Not sure if that makes sense without seeing it, but if you do understand what I mean, it will work for you.

Regarding plastic for the floor...maybe if you can get 6mil plastic, but that would be more costly than those inexpensive and more durable blue tarps. We get the lighter weight "top cover" tarps and because they are taped to the yurt both inside and out, they tend to get cut up pretty badly when we disassemble the yurts, so we get new ones each year. We use 20' x 20' tarps. It too late now, but they are available for about $15.00 on Amazon.

THANKS!
When you said that, "We tape the edges with foil tape. We tape the hinged panels with 6" bi-directional filament tape." -- does this mean that you don't tape the edges with the bi-directional tape - cuz everywhere it says tape all edges with bi-directional... or do you tape the edges with bi-directional tape and then cover it with the foil tape...

But if we can get away with just doing the edges with foil - and only the hinges for the roof, the hinges for the wall, and when connecting the wall and roof with bi-directional tape - - that'd be awesome.

Please let me know if this is what you mean...

Thanks so much for your help and patience. Massive hug when we bump into each other on some weird dragon or birthday cake cruising down the playa in the early morning of dust.

2) Oh lastly - when doing the "semi-folding" technique... do you have to "mind the gap" on the roof?
3) And... what size tarp do you guys use? Could we get away with plastic sheeting instead of the tarp..

thanks!!!

[Elderberry]

Kman, why would you edge the panels with bi-directional tape? Strength isn't necessary for edging any more than the original foil on the sides of the panels is. I just think of the edging in the same terms as the facing that comes on the panels.

[kman]

Kman, why would you edge the panels with bi-directional tape? Strength isn't necessary for edging any more than the original foil on the sides of the panels is. I just think of the edging in the same terms as the facing that comes on the panels.

Actually, you might be right. I can't recall. And I've been drinking.

Urp.

[Fidget Wigglesworth]

Thanks!

kman - can you explain "minding the gap?" The link on the appropedia (http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_playa_checklist) site when explaining that doesnt work, and i didnt understand the explanation since that section was geared towards the traditional 3D Midair assembly... not towards the semi-folding version. It doesnt seem like "the gap" will be a problem... but that is 'cuz i dont really get what it is maybe. The danger tutorial videos and the appropedia page instructions for the Danger Camp folding hexayurt don't mention the "gap" at all.

Hopefully this will be my last big question!
Tomorrow is the day to get this thing up

gracias

oh and i found these tarps for pretty cheap, but they seem thin - what do u guys think - the one at the store was really expensive and these seem way more reasonable:

[kman]

I get my tarps at Harbor Freight. Thick as possible. I shop ahead, though, and keep an eye out for sales. Much cheaper than paying full price... think of it this way, you now have a just over year to shop for next year's tarp.

We used this: http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ft-2-in ... 47677.html But NOT that. Ours were bigger, in a size they don't have listed online at the moment (17'2" x 19'6"). I think the 15'2" x 19'6" one would probably work, though, since standard yurts are about 14'x16'. Something like that, though. This is definitely the quality level we were seeking... heavy duty. Similar to the heavy duty one you list second, but it's hard to tell without all the specs published, which that Amazon listing lacks. I think I paid $25.

As to "minding the gap", look at this gif from the appropedia site, perhaps:



I'm afraid I can't really help you with minding the gap as I don't think there IS a gap with the semi-folding yurts (at least, the beveled variety we made). The beveling allows everything to fit together nicely, the way you'd think it should. It's definitely not something we worried about... but I assembled mine with an experienced yurter the first time, so perhaps he did something unusual during construction to alleviate the problem that I didn't notice? Looking at the gif, it appears the issue is the thickness of the material all coming together along the bottom (inside), which leads to some spread at the top (outside). That's not an issue with the folders, since they fit flush together at the correct angle.

I THINK that's what they're referring to.

Edit: Watch the video, I think, and leave a little space? I dunno. This wasn't an issue we had. Bear in mind, our roofs were assembled beforehand, and we got everything as tight as possible, just making sure the bottom edge took priority. Then on the playa, actual assembly just meant putting the two unfolded roof sections together and taping across. No gap to worry about.

[mrfunsacramento]

Did a test assemble of my semi-folding H12 this morning in the parking lot of a local school this morning. Let me just say....thank you, thank you, thank you Julie Danger.

Such a great moment when I put the two sections of roof next to each other, taped one side together, then lifted it up and had the whole thing form a perfect hexayurt cone. Wow! I watched the video of the miniature version about a dozen times, but it still felt like a miracle when it really worked. It looks like hardest part of putting this baby up is putting the stakes in.

[Elderberry]

LOL I remember that feeling. We set ours up in a local park. that was before the semi-folding option was invented. I think that might be our method of choice if we have to build a new one.

Did a test assemble of my semi-folding H12 this morning in the parking lot of a local school this morning. Let me just say....thank you, thank you, thank you Julie Danger.

Such a great moment when I put the two sections of roof next to each other, taped one side together, then lifted it up and had the whole thing form a perfect hexayurt cone. Wow! I watched the video of the miniature version about a dozen times, but it still felt like a miracle when it really worked. It looks like hardest part of putting this baby up is putting the stakes in.

[Hondovious]

Did our test build.. I decided to just go with three two panel tight hinged sections for the walls, and the Danger tight/loose hinge method for the roof. Took 4 guys 5 minutes to get it up.




And one of the swamp cooler just cuz I think it's cool


Now to start working on my door....

[Elderberry]

Nice.

[Hondovious]

So while at Home Depot tonight I had another idea.. Every time I go there I get another that adds another few hours to my prep time, but anyhow..

I am painting one of my exterior walls with a paint that makes the wall into a dry erase board. The white wall should not absorb much more heat than the silver, friends can leave notes, and who knows what might end up there. I think I will take a pic of the wall every morning and erase it for a fresh slate the next day and keep a bunch of markers suspended from the roof. I'll have to put it up closer to the road now fro greater interaction.

5 day from now I'll be on the road. \m/

[ratkins]

I'm planning on building a 6' semi-folding stretch yurt using the Camp Danger hinges. Am I right in thinking I won't need any "loose" hinges at all? I'm not exactly sure what I should hinge to minimize both packed thickness and on-Playa setup time.

Has anyone done a 6' semi-folding stretch who can offer any advice? Better yet, has anyone done a "tape these edges, slack hinge here, tight hinge here, logos face up on this part" PDF like http://www.appropedia.org/images/8/8f/C ... on_PDF.pdf but for the 6' stretch?

Cheers, Robert.

[Julie Danger]

Calling all hexayurters and DIY superstars!
Join us for the 2nd Annual Black Rock City Hexayurt Happy Hour, Burning Man 2011. Wednesday 8/31, 2-5 pm, at Bayesian Conspiracy (home of the massive TriDome, within Playagon Village!) Approx 4:00 & E. We'll be serving Gin and Tonics, the Official Drink of the Hexayurt Project. More beverages, shwag, and snacks welcome, extra points if they're hexagonal. Clothing optional, but remember: silver is the new black. Plus: special guest appearance by Vinay Gupta, depending on technical capabilities.

[JeepBear]

Hey @Ratkins,

Checkout this gentlemen's videos on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/user/coreyfro

That's the design my camp is building at the moment. I say building because we're still in the middle of the process ourselves. But I can tell you the following:
Tight hinges on all the vertical seams on the walls (3-4" tape on the tight side minimum, 6" on the loose side,")
Loose hinges on all the wall-to-roof seams (6" tape on both sides with a 1" gap, watch the videos for more info there.)

The most helpful thing I can recommend is build yourself a scale model to use as a guide, using those videos and some cardboard or foamcore board (something like this: http://www.officemax.com/office-supplie ... prod570168) We're set to finish the hinges and do a test build tomorrow, so I can post pics then of both the full-size and model versions.

[Canoe]

... 6' semi-folding stretch ... has anyone done a "tape these edges, slack hinge here, tight hinge here, logos face up on this part" PDF like http://www.appropedia.org/images/8/8f/C ... on_PDF.pdf but for the 6' stretch? Cheers, Robert.

Didn't get that far, but for a 6' stretch with one end with a peaked roof for a larger door...

folding model (should be pretty obvious that the logos go on the back)


assemblies:
roof, 2 x sides-end, 2x "door"/end, 2 x roof extension (tape inside, outside and again on outside where green line is)
with the model made, it should be fairly easy to figure out which hinges are which
the green line indicates extra tape required to reinforce the roof line to the two peak-extension panels (the smallest triangles)

(the two small triangles could be taped-folding to the roof, but this makes for a less strong shipping package, but would allow for the peak-end "doors" to be taped together as another assembly instead of separate panels)

packing & cut
(of course the "doors" next to the roof fold again to fit within 4' x 8' - this is just to show how the pieces fit)


"normal" 6' stretch folding model
blue-grey indicates where a panel folds over the larger panel


hope this gets you further faster

[ratkins]

I watched the video, thanks for that, and the "net" shown above for the "normal" 6' stretch was what I was thinking of. I'm wondering if not having a single tape lengh from the end wall joins, up over the long axis of the roof joint and all the way down the other side might compromise strength?

I've had another thought, which is to put my door in one of the smaller end panels rather than the larger side panels. Can anyone see a good reason not to do this? It gives me more space for the bed.

Cheers, Robert.

[Canoe]

... I'm wondering if not having a single tape lengh from the end wall joins, up over the long axis of the roof joint and all the way down the other side might compromise strength?

Anytime you have a continuous run of filament tape, you're maximizing strength (it's relying on the filament/tape strength, not on two or more pieces of filament relying on the sticky stuff and area of contact to transfer the load between pieces). Thus, the continuous over-the-top on a seam to the tie-down handles is very strong. On the stretch, that just happens to be one on the long axis.
How much is enough? Well, what others have done successfully. If you depart from that, well, report back what does or doesn't work, and under what wind conditions...

... put my door in one of the smaller end panels rather than the larger side panels.

Staying at least six inches away from the sides and top, or add a thin sheet of plywood to that panel.

That's why I went for a "peaked" end, with the taller end panels (orange) for a larger door and more immediate head clearance inside.


whatever you do: make a model, even if just paper, cereal box cardboard, but box cardboard with some thickness lets you see how the different types of hinges work so you can visualize where you want what.

[A Jester]

I couldn't find a supplier I liked for the bi-directional tape, so i ended up using FSK tape.

Something very similar to http://www.venturetape.com/pdfs/datashe ... %20TDS.pdf

It looks like the adhesion is about 25% lower (75 oz/sq in compared to 100 oz/sq inch) but I don't think that's going to be a major issue if I can get a continuous length over the top.

I can get this tape through work, so it's a lot cheaper for me than the other stuff.

I'll let you know how it holds up!

[ratkins]

whatever you do: make a model, even if just paper, cereal box cardboard, but box cardboard with some thickness lets you see how the different types of hinges work so you can visualize where you want what.

Gah, thank you Canoe. I knew this but you just goaded me into spending the fifteen minutes required to actually do it, thus saving me probably about four hours of taping this afternoon and an hour of assembly on-Playa .

Making the model has confirmed how I thought I ought to do it: all the walls will "concertina" together, folding into an 8'x4'x4" stack. The two roof halves will be separate and I'll lay the one piece of tape across the top and down the walls during construction, then the tension band all the way around the wall/roof join.

Completed:

http://gallery.me.com/ratkins/100037/IMG_1467

Stacked, ready to wrap in a tarp:

http://gallery.me.com/ratkins/100037/IMG_1471

Cheers, Robert.

[Canoe]

whatever you do: make a model, ...

...the fifteen minutes required to actually do it, thus saving me probably about four hours of taping this afternoon and an hour of assembly on-Playa ...

I was just reiterating what others told me - a general thanks to those who went before!

...Making the model has confirmed how I thought I ought to do it: all the walls will "concertina" together, folding into an 8'x4'x4" stack. The two roof halves will be separate and I'll lay the one piece of tape across the top and down the walls during construction, then the tension band all the way around the wall/roof join...

Interesting how the human mind works. Seems almost as many variations on implementation as there are people/groups making them.

Completed: http://gallery.me.com/ratkins/100037/IMG_1467

Looking at that model I keep expecting a Gumby to poke out and wave.

[Fidget Wigglesworth]

GOOD NEWS + ONE LAST QUESTION

- We successfully built the yurt yesterday. It was an amazing feeling. When we trapped our friend inside and got the roof on the walls, and it all seemed to click together in place, a sudden weight flew off my shoulders and the dust on my fingertips started to tingle that much more... i cant believe we'll be inside of it on the playa in less than 7 days Thankyou for all of your help. I don't think we could have done it so seamlessly (no pun intended) without you. Yes, it is a magical feeling to see that silver roof shine.

- SO... one last question about the Ring and Tape Anchors. I read that for the tension ring at the end, you just run the tape all the way around the yurt , a single unbroken strand... and that when we get to the tape anchors "we have a choice."

But do we really? Can we actually go over or under? If the anchors are positioned about six inches below the ground edge of the isosceles triangles, where the split in the two boards is, then wont these be taped to/over the edge of the panels? Therefore getting in the way of the tension ring? Or do they not connect the walls and the roof. Where does it stop then?

And so the only real option is over the tape which "holds the tape anchors, so that the actual plastic tubes stick out just under the tension ring" - however, then is the seal on these parts of the roof/wall edge really intact? Seems like somethings missing.

Can you incredible folks help us out?
Thanks so much! so soon....

[mayermar]

I do something with my Hexayurt that i have not seen anyone else do. My panels are sandwiched between two sheets of plywood for transportation. one sheet of plywood has a hinged door and shutter windows. It is taped to the front panel of the Yurt and the insulation pieces are taped to the inside of the door and windows. It makes a great latching door and windows that we can open at night. The other sheet of plywood is also hinged in two places to make a shower stall for the side of the Yurt. i have prebuilt legs and it sits in my evap pond. The plywood really protects the panels nicely and they dont just lay on the Playa for a week.