Burn Barrel question...

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motskyroonmatick
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby motskyroonmatick » Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:29 pm

lemur wrote:jahobas witless


I like to call them Yeahwah Whitnah. I'm always exuberantly honest with them when they come bye. :D :D They still come back... I think they are forced to.
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby lemur » Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:51 am

ygmir wrote:why is it dangerous?


carbon monoxide
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby ygmir » Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:39 am

lemur wrote:
ygmir wrote:why is it dangerous?


carbon monoxide

with a good flu, why CO danger? Any more than any wood burning stove?

I can see if there is no draft, but...........
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby lemur » Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:55 am

with a working carbon monoxide detector, yeah! maybe..
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby ygmir » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:00 am

again, though, why is that design any more prone to CO?

Given a working flu/chimney.
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby gyre » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:44 am

Motz, a taller chimney will draw better, stack effect.

The Sotz intake was a downdraft design to max effectiveness with a slow fire.

There was a tube on the door open at the bottom, if I recall accurately.

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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby motskyroonmatick » Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:18 pm

ygmir wrote:again, though, why is that design any more prone to CO?

Given a working flu/chimney.


I am more concerned about barrel burn out and having the fire escape the barrels. These are thin barrels and over time with oxidation and heating and cooling they will fail. With complacency being a chief human characteristic with things that apparently work well I'd rather stop a potential problem before it even became a potential. I'm nearly always a "Always choose good over lucky." kind of guy.

I've probably been on 10 fire calls involving improper use or installation of wood stoves so I've seen things get out of hand even after working fine for a decade.

I'm aware of the chimney effect and having a straight tall run as making better draw. With the chimney extension on the stove it is 10 or 12 feet tall. If I were to add more chimney I would have to dramatically step up securing the chimney from the effects of heavy wind. I'd rather have the set up simple and zero concern when I am away from camp. I think an 8" chimney will give me the right amount of draw or I will make a little boiler system on the stove and make a steam powered draft inducer. That would be cool. Self powered turbocharged stove would be awesome.
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby gyre » Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:38 pm

Sotz advised leaving a bed of ash to protect the base from heat.
They suggested a good high temp paint.
I used proper silicone paint.

If you could find barrels like I found, they would last forever.
Probably from the 40s or earlier.
Heavy cast rollers around them and nickel plated.

Did you use 55 gallon or 20 gallon?

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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby ygmir » Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:40 pm

yeah, ok.......I thought maybe you were referring to the thin walled materials......that's why the CO idea sort of threw me.
There's a formula, for flu size vs door opening, as far as keeping it from smoking when open, and I'm sure it's good in general.
I think your flu needs to be 1/3 your opening size......but that's just from memory.
and, with a good flu, you have lower atmospheric pressure inside the burn chamber, so smoke etc will be sucked back in, with small openings. Again, that's why the CO reference confused me.

I think those are nice, neat, cheap designs, as long as used withing design and durability limits.
one guy here, used to put sand inside, and a container (metal) of WMO on the stove (that type), with a tube running into the sand. the air intake was pointed right at the sand pile,and it made quite a bit of heat. He'd only use wood to get the process started.
smokey and stinky outside, though, for sure.
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby motskyroonmatick » Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:12 pm

I'm going to run with that flue size rule of thumb. It sounds right to me(gut instinct). Thanks!

I haven't seen a good thick wall barrel since I ran a mint distillery 12 years ago. I did salivate over the stainless ones and then I filled them with 400 pounds of mint oil. $8,000. of pure uncut mint oil.
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby EspressoDude » Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:03 pm

funkyjigsaw wrote:Washing machine burn barrel


where is the motor to put it spin cycle??
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby gyre » Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:20 pm

There is such a thing as too much intake relative to exhaust.
Slows the flow.

sotz emphasized getting the flow where it was most effective.

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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby theCryptofishist » Sun Mar 11, 2012 4:22 pm

motskyroonmatick wrote:$8,000. of pure uncut mint oil.

(Insert drug reference here.)
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby TomServo » Sun Mar 11, 2012 5:03 pm

EspressoDude wrote:
funkyjigsaw wrote:Washing machine burn barrel


where is the motor to put it spin cycle??

Image
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Re: Burn Barrel question...

Postby motskyroonmatick » Sun Mar 11, 2012 5:44 pm

theCryptofishist wrote:
motskyroonmatick wrote:$8,000. of pure uncut mint oil.

(Insert drug reference here.)


:twisted: :D :D My work is done.

Mint oil is actually cut with vegetable oil for palatability. For example...In it's raw form dipping a tooth pick in the oil and swirling the dipped end around in unflavored frosting is enough to flavor frosting for a double layer 12" cake. Yum.
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