

geospyder wrote:My tent has an exoskeleton of 1/2 inch PVC and has functioned well the last few burns. My ice chests will be under a table with insulated pads over them. The table will also have insulated pads over it during the day. I'm going solo this year and won't have the luxury of a "camp" shade structure. The Sport Brella would be mainly to provide shade in the afternoon during siesta time. Tent is definitely too hot. Thinking maybe 1/2 inch PVC over the opening with a "T" in the middle to provide another strand of PVC down the back like a spinal cord. Like the tent they would be staked down and zip tied to the umbrella itself.
FIGJAM wrote:Who wants to remain nameless?![]()
You can do the same thing with 1" EMT and buy the corners.
With the pressure of the tarp pulling down, it's hard for that simple shade to fail.
geospyder wrote:My tent has an exoskeleton of 1/2 inch PVC and has functioned well the last few burns. My ice chests will be under a table with insulated pads over them. The table will also have insulated pads over it during the day. .
Eric wrote:geospyder wrote:My tent has an exoskeleton of 1/2 inch PVC and has functioned well the last few burns. My ice chests will be under a table with insulated pads over them. The table will also have insulated pads over it during the day. .
Keep your coolers off the ground - a couple of pieces of wood, a pallet, something. Air is a better insulator than the dirt. Unless you have a large area of the ground thats kept insulated (think Hexa-yurt), the ground under your cooler will get warm(ish), even if it's in the shade.
trilobyte wrote:Seems like you'd either not get very good shade coverage, or you'd need to pull and re-pound stakes a couple times a day for it to provide much coverage. Even then, there'd be pieces to bend and fail, you may be better off making something. I've never used one of those, I'm just taking some guesses based on that pic.
FIGJAM wrote:No connectors!
Get a piece of 1 1/4" EMT 3" long, and use that as a connector for the cross piece.
For the uprights, you would have to drill holes through the uprights and the "splint" for some small bolts or pins so the connector can't slide down.
illy dilly wrote:FIGJAM wrote:No connectors!
Get a piece of 1 1/4" EMT 3" long, and use that as a connector for the cross piece.
For the uprights, you would have to drill holes through the uprights and the "splint" for some small bolts or pins so the connector can't slide down.
For vertical members holes with bolts/pins would be best.
Though, if you're buying all the material in Reno, and not trying to deal with a drill. You could also, have one person hold the 'sleeve' over the joint and tape the living shit out of it at each end.
The tap isn't structural except to hold the sleeve over the joint.
Another idea, is to get a couple largish zip-ties. Again, have someone hold the sleeve in place, and wrap a zip-tie as tight as possible around the vertical pipe below and above the joint but not on the joint. Zip-ties don't slide easily along PVC, but they do slide pretty easy on EMT.
VultureChow, another option is that I'll have a drill. And if everything over the next months goes to plan, I'll be there and I'll be camping at BDV.
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