Dr. Dust's 'V' style Rebar Method- 10 steps to perfect Vbar™

[Dr. Dust]

What is Vbar™, you ask..? 'V' shaped rebar is perhaps the most difficult to pull out of the ground, but it is by far the easiest to pound into the surface of the playa upon at set up. It's far more reliable and easier to deal with than Kandy Kane rebar, in my experience.

601060_552013014829985_1353146298_n.jpg

You will need:
1 steel pipe 4' x 1" (herein referred to as the 'thick' pipe)
1 steel pipe 4' x 1/2" (herein referred to as the 'thin' pipe)
Lots of 3-4' x 3/8" rebar (get extra in case you mess up)
Spraypaint (optional)
Newspaper (optional)
Measuring tape (optional)
Particle respirator a.k.a. dust mask (recommended)

STEP BY STEP:

Preparation (optional): Line up all of your rebar evenly on the ground so that it looks like this: ||||||||||||||||. Measure the halfway point and mark it with spraypaint. It helps to lie the rebar on an unfolded page of newspaper because then you can align the crease of the newspaper with the center of the rebar before you mark it. This makes it easier to spraypaint a straght line (the crease line) laterally across all of your rebar.

1. Place the 4' x 1" 'thick' steel pipe on the ground on a hard surface like concrete or asphalt.

2. Insert a piece of rebar SLIGHTLY OVER halfway into this piece of pipe (which should still be laying on the ground).

3. Now take the 4' x 1/2" 'narrow' steel pipe, and slide it over the remaining exposed rebar. The ends of the two pipes should now be 'kissing'.

4. WEARING CLOSED-TOE SHOES TIED TIGHTLY, step on the thick steel pipe with one foot while stabilizing yourself with the other foot on the ground.

5. Reach down and grab the narrow steel pipe.

6. Pull upwards on the narrow pipe while putting as much weight as possible on the thick pipe. It helps to stomp on the the thick pipe as you initially pull upwards to create more resistance.

7. Bend the narrow pipe over 180 degrees WHILE HOLDING THE WEIGHT ON THE THICK PIPE. Once you get to 90 degrees you may find it more comfortable to place both feet on the thick pipe.

8. Once you've finished, return the the steel pipes to HD or wherever you've purchased them. You no longer need them and they are still totally useable so get your money back!

9. Upon arriving at the playa, check out your neighbors' set-up to see if their structures could benefit from the added stability of Vbar™. It could save them (and possibly you as well) a major headache. (Side note: I always bring tennis balls for my neighbors' exposed rebar stakes since I know not everyone is hip to the advantages of Vbar™ yet).

10. As others have mentioned on eplaya, Vbar™ can be pulled out of the ground using a spare Vbar™. Loosen the earth by pouring melted cooler water over the stake. Find a buddy or a neighbor and have each person pull up on one side. Remember to LIFT WITH YOUR LEGS or that long car ride home will not be a comfortable one.

NOTE: I do not claim to have invented Vbar™, but I'm pretty damn sure I coined the term. Dusty hugs to ALL - Dr. Dust over and out!

[MacGlenver]

Easiest to pound in, eh? You think it's easier than pounding in a single, straight piece of rebar? Granted most straight rebar is 1/2" instead of the 3/8" you're using, but with the angle of the bent rebar transferring your power sideways, I can't see it being easier to pound in. I've seen many discussions of the similar "rebar-staples", and I recall the conclusion being that it wasn't worth it. Certainly is easier to tie onto though...

Any comparisons on bending strength of a bent piece of 3/8" versus a straight piece of 1/2"? I'm guessing the bent 3/8" is stronger, but not certain.

[Earthwalker]

This post is full of sexual inuendos

[TT120]

How do you keep it from opening up the V when you pound it into the Playa? With each "leg" going in at an angle, they're going to want to keep that angle and as you get closer to full insertion, (yes, I said "full insertion") you're going to run into problems.

[Earthwalker]

There's nothing quite like a stick of rock hard rebar to get the libidos awake. Oooh, and all those bumps on the rebar? The ladies love those. Like ribbed condoms...but rebar

[theCryptofishist]

ouch

[Dr. Dust]

Easiest to pound in, eh? You think it's easier than pounding in a single, straight piece of rebar? Granted most straight rebar is 1/2" instead of the 3/8" you're using, but with the angle of the bent rebar transferring your power sideways, I can't see it being easier to pound in. I've seen many discussions of the similar "rebar-staples", and I recall the conclusion being that it wasn't worth it. Certainly is easier to tie onto though...

To be honest, I'm not sure if the 3/8" vbar is necessarily easier than the 1/2" straight piece of rebar to pound in. Your mileage may vary. I never use straight rebar because they have no place in my tent/ Alcove shade structure set up. Straight rebar is good for stabilizing the PVC ribs of a monkey hut or similar structure. However, for securing guy lines, dome frames, EZ-ups (if you must), and just about anything where the purpose is to 'staple' that bitch flush to the ground, vbars are not only easy to hammer in, but also provide the ideal hook to tie on to (as you mentioned).

However, I speculate the vbars ARE easier to pound in than straight rebars because the two contact points stabilize one another and thus prevent the 'dancing' nail effect (the problem where the hammering angle changes as your straight rebars inadvertently sway from side to side as you pound).

It is true that the any bent rebar will transfer the power sideways, but the beautiful thing about 'perfect' vbars (like the one I photographed above) is that the force applied to it is divided evenly to both sides. This creates a synergistic effect that I suppose you'll have to see to understand.

Rebar staples, on the other hand, do not distribute the force effecitently because are bent at two angles as opposed to the single vertex offered by the vbar.

Any comparisons on bending strength of a bent piece of 3/8" versus a straight piece of 1/2"? I'm guessing the bent 3/8" is stronger, but not certain.

I'm not sure what you're referring to by 'bending strength'.

[Dr. Dust]

How do you keep it from opening up the V when you pound it into the Playa? With each "leg" going in at an angle, they're going to want to keep that angle and as you get closer to full insertion, (yes, I said "full insertion") you're going to run into problems.

It's simple. The force applied from hammering the vbar meets resistance in two places- the vbar vertex, and the ground. The relatively soft ground offers less resistance than the vertex, and so the vbar sinks into the ground effortlessly.

Imagine trying to pound the vbar into a concrete surface. Only if there is less resistance at the vertex than at the ground will the vbar buckle and bend.

However, keep in mind that the vbar must be bent perfectly in half for it to be effortless as described. But even if it's not perfect, it's still going to be really damn easy- just hammer in the longer side in a little first to even it out so you can pound it straight down.

Good questions.

[Dr. Dust]

There's nothing quite like a stick of rock hard rebar to get the libidos awake. Oooh, and all those bumps on the rebar? The ladies love those. Like ribbed condoms...but rebar

WORD

[mudpuppy000]

I like the candycane style because you can twist them to easily pull them out of the ground. They pound in nicely too if you have them bent tightly. I ended up buying some pre-bent ones a few years ago and they work great.

[strange love]

These look like they would work really well. You mentioned that they're more difficult to remove, do you think using a small bottle jack would help?

[Dr. Dust]

These look like they would work really well. You mentioned that they're more difficult to remove, do you think using a small bottle jack would help?

I haven't tried that, but I definitely think it would help!

This past year, my camp mates had to leave right after the temple burn, while I chose to stick around for a week or so. By the time I was ready to pull up my vbars, I didn't have a helping hand available to assist me with pulling the vbars out. Rather than break my back over it, I simply dug out the vbars using a small garden trowel. A couple of sledgehammer blows back and forth helped loosen the dirt as well. It took quite a while to do it this way (about 15 minutes per vbar), but it was relatively easy to do.

Even if you bring the jack, I would strongly recommend bringing a shovel and a sledgehammer as a back up plan. It goes without saying, but remember to replace all of the dirt you dig up after removing the rebar.

Let us know how the bottle jack works out!

[ygmir]

These look like they would work really well. You mentioned that they're more difficult to remove, do you think using a small bottle jack would help?

I haven't tried that, but I definitely think it would help!

This past year, my camp mates had to leave right after the temple burn, while I chose to stick around for a week or so. By the time I was ready to pull up my vbars, I didn't have a helping hand available to assist me with pulling the vbars out. Rather than break my back over it, I simply dug out the vbars using a small garden trowel. A couple of sledgehammer blows back and forth helped loosen the dirt as well. It took quite a while to do it this way (about 15 minutes per vbar), but it was relatively easy to do.

Even if you bring the jack, I would strongly recommend bringing a shovel and a sledgehammer as a back up plan. It goes without saying, but remember to replace all of the dirt you dig up after removing the rebar.

Let us know how the bottle jack works out!

[Elorrum]

black pipe nipple and cap. gives you a bigger pounding surface on a straight piece of rebar.


I have a pair of long handle slip joint pliers to remove.... turn a few times all around and then pull. sometimes they slide out real easy.

last year I just used ten inch galvanized nails, no problems and super easy to remove. but not a huge windy year. and I missed the solar lights I usually put on all the rebar.

[mudpuppy000]

Or, you can just get a long steel bar and pry the v-bar out of the ground.

[Dr. Dust]

These look like they would work really well. You mentioned that they're more difficult to remove, do you think using a small bottle jack would help?

I haven't tried that, but I definitely think it would help!

[...]

Let us know how the bottle jack works out!

I heard someone on the playa refer to that red jack as a 'rebar puller'. What is that actually called? It looks different from a bottle jack.

[Dr. Dust]

Or, you can just get a long steel bar and pry the v-bar out of the ground.

Have you tried this?

[ygmir]

I haven't tried that, but I definitely think it would help!

[...]

Let us know how the bottle jack works out!

I heard someone on the playa refer to that red jack as a 'rebar puller'. What is that actually called? It looks different from a bottle jack.

The lable says "High Lift".......I'd start there.

[theCryptofishist]

That's what I know it as, too.

[Sail Man]

There's nothing quite like a stick of rock hard rebar to get the libidos awake. Oooh, and all those bumps on the rebar? The ladies love those. Like ribbed condoms...but rebar

Between the original post, and this comment, I was pretty much agreeing, but I think the climax came when Elorrum made her post about the nipple caps.

[mudpuppy000]

Or, you can just get a long steel bar and pry the v-bar out of the ground.

Have you tried this?

I pull out my candy cane rebar like this just using another piece of rebar to do it. It tends to bend a little though. One of my campmates uses a bar to pry out 2 foot sections of rebar straight out of the ground. I think it was about a 3 foot long pry bar.

[Capt. RON]

The apparatus, shown is a "Hi Lift" jack used by the off road community to extract themselves from sticky situations. It's quite versatile and can be used for lifting and pulling depending on how it's configured.

[Capt. RON]

If you are in a large camp or village, with lots of rebar to pull, you might want one of these instead
http://www.wayfair.com/Tolman-Tool-Stak ... S1008.html

[Dr. Dust]

If you are in a large camp or village, with lots of rebar to pull, you might want one of these instead
http://www.wayfair.com/Tolman-Tool-Stak ... S1008.html

Damn that looks really useful.

Or, you can just get a long steel bar and pry the v-bar out of the ground.

Seriously though, have you tried this? It sounds like it would work really well.

[mudpuppy000]

If you are in a large camp or village, with lots of rebar to pull, you might want one of these instead
http://www.wayfair.com/Tolman-Tool-Stak ... S1008.html

Damn that looks really useful.

Or, you can just get a long steel bar and pry the v-bar out of the ground.

Seriously though, have you tried this? It sounds like it would work really well.

See above. It's a lot of work but it'll do the trick. The lever thing ron posted would be easier as all you have to do is put your weight on the handle, vs lift it. Or just get a block of wood as a fulcrum and use a plain steel bar..

I've used a stake puller to pull out those t-stakes on the playa. Those things are incredibly difficult to get up, but was easy with the puller.

[clocksnmirrors]

i used straight 1/2" rebar pounded in at an angle to stake down my hexayurt. covered the ends with cut up sections of fun noodle foam

no bends. easy to pull out with vise grips

it worked just fine

[Trishntek]

Where I come from, we call them there jacks a "Handy Man"

My rebar is shaped more in a 'U' shape so the the penetrating appendages are vertical and the rounded part parks nicely over my 1 3/8 pipe laying horizontally on the ground. Of course, I do not use guy lines on my shade structure, it is all pipe framed up, down and all around.

[Savannah]

i used straight 1/2" rebar pounded in at an angle to stake down my hexayurt. covered the ends with cut up sections of fun noodle foam

no bends. easy to pull out with vise grips

it worked just fine

Same, only I top my rebar with tennis balls.

[Dr. Dust]

For whatever reason, vbar is the only rebar shape that gives me that "there's no fuckin' way this structure's gonna blow away" peace of mind, thus allowing me to have a carefree experience. I just know that shit ain't goin' nowhere, and it clears my head. I'm sure the other tried and true rebar shapes are also perfectly effective, but for me personally, this method ensures structure stability beyond any shadow of a doubt. I find the extra effort worthwhile because I have a tendency to worry about such things frequently, especially if I happen to not be one hundred percent clearheaded at the time. I might add, I even bring tennis balls for my neighbors' straight rebar in case they didn't get the memo. Could save your burn, yo.

[maladroit]

I used rebar between 2 and 3 feet long, because I was a paranoid noob. I welded flat washers to the top to turn them into giant nails and pounded those suckers flush, to hold down a 6-man tent and a 20' monkeyhut. Of course, it didn't go anywhere (though there wasn't much wind in 2012). Getting them out was a serious problem.

This year I'm going to try FIGJAM's 14" lag screw idea. I figure a 14" screw will bite in about as much as a 24" rebar, since it actually threads into the playa instead of depending on friction inside the hole it just punched. I will also bend some of my old stakes in half, Dr. Dust, to give it a try for some guy line anchors. But I'll use a blowtorch to heat up the rebar at the bend location, because I suspect cold-bending it will make it fairly brittle in the exact spot you need to hammer.