cooling your tent or van
Re: cooling your tent or van
I use this one on the batteries that I only use on the playa.
This will be thier 4th year.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326706_200326706?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Batteries%2C%20Chargers%20%2B%20Jump%20Starters-_-Battery%20Maintainers-_-167988&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=167988&gclid=COvZudS3rbcCFWNgMgodYTYAqA
This will be thier 4th year.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326706_200326706?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Batteries%2C%20Chargers%20%2B%20Jump%20Starters-_-Battery%20Maintainers-_-167988&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=167988&gclid=COvZudS3rbcCFWNgMgodYTYAqA
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Re: cooling your tent or van
Picture trails tells me my pics in this thread have been viewed 1.23 million times! 

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- unjonharley
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Re: cooling your tent or van
There are going to be a bunch of homer cooler around..
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Re: cooling your tent or van
Am planing to run the cooler bucket through the overhead A/C vents in the van.
This morning I turned the fan on to see if it works.. Bad idea.. Playa dust storm in the van.. Loved it..
This morning I turned the fan on to see if it works.. Bad idea.. Playa dust storm in the van.. Loved it..
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Re: cooling your tent or van
unjonharley wrote:There are going to be a bunch of homer cooler around..
Yep just bought one , I have a 110 pump , what do you use to convert it so it will run on a batt?
" Make me strong , not to be superiour to my brothers , to fight my greatest enemy ..... myself . " Chief Dan George .
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Re: cooling your tent or van
You could use an inverter but that would be pretty inefficient. You would get MUCH longer battery life by using a 12 volt pump and fan.
Life's a bitch, then you go to Burning Man - Unjonharley
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Re: cooling your tent or van
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- tatonka
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Re: cooling your tent or van
thks guys 

" Make me strong , not to be superiour to my brothers , to fight my greatest enemy ..... myself . " Chief Dan George .
We all feel ,We all bleed, We all share the pain of living ,and loss..... we're not so different after all
We all feel ,We all bleed, We all share the pain of living ,and loss..... we're not so different after all
Re: cooling your tent or van
Of the pumps I've tested, this is my favorite.
https://www.greenlivingforu.com/dc-submersible-water-fountain-pump-use-12v-solar-panel-or-battery

https://www.greenlivingforu.com/dc-submersible-water-fountain-pump-use-12v-solar-panel-or-battery
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Re: cooling your tent or van
Question for figjam and others knowledgeable about the bucket swamp cooler:
I just got this pump:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PBWIR0/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item
It is very quiet and rated at .5amp (6w). I tested it at 12v, pumping up a 23 inch high, 1/4" id tube. It pumped 48 gallons per hour. Is that a sufficient water flow for the Home Depot bucket swamp cooler?
I just got this pump:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PBWIR0/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item
It is very quiet and rated at .5amp (6w). I tested it at 12v, pumping up a 23 inch high, 1/4" id tube. It pumped 48 gallons per hour. Is that a sufficient water flow for the Home Depot bucket swamp cooler?
Re: cooling your tent or van
Yes. 

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Re: cooling your tent or van
Electrical/Power question:
Can I hook up my 5-gal bucket cooler to a car battery?
My Deep Cycle battery is buried in storage out of town, but I want to test my new bucket cooler.
Can I clamp the cooler to my normal car battery to try it out? Or would the car battery fry it?
Notes: I used the Delta 1.6amp fan and a 12V pump 0.4 amp.
Thank you! I really don't want to fry all my hard work thus far, but my Deep Cycle is at the "inlaws" 5 hours away (luckily, it's on the way to BRC!).
Can I hook up my 5-gal bucket cooler to a car battery?
My Deep Cycle battery is buried in storage out of town, but I want to test my new bucket cooler.
Can I clamp the cooler to my normal car battery to try it out? Or would the car battery fry it?
Notes: I used the Delta 1.6amp fan and a 12V pump 0.4 amp.
Thank you! I really don't want to fry all my hard work thus far, but my Deep Cycle is at the "inlaws" 5 hours away (luckily, it's on the way to BRC!).
Re: cooling your tent or van
12 volts DC is 12 volts DC no matter where it comes from, so yes you can test it with your cars battery or even a 12 volt charger.
I do it all the time.
I do it all the time.

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Re: cooling your tent or van
A car battery will be fine for testing. Just don't run the battery too low. Try not to run your cooler off a car battery for more than a couple hours. Car batteries don't like to be discharged very far. Deep cycle batteries don't mind it so much.
Life's a bitch, then you go to Burning Man - Unjonharley
W6BJD
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Re: cooling your tent or van
I forget if I ever posted back last year about my coolers.
I used 32 gallon sterilite tubs purchased from a big box store. They didn't have vertical sides, which wasn't ideal for some of the designs in this thread, but I built a PVC U that was inside the tub and several inches away from the edges, and they worked super well. The sterilite is nice because you can cut it with an exacto knife, drill it, etc.
I used the recommended endless breeze fan.
For a pump, I used this guy, which is still available.
http://www.lightobject.com/36Lmin-Mini- ... -P573.aspx
Before the playa, I characterized it in my lab and it was very efficient for an 18" water rise and pumped plenty of water to keep our hexayurts nice and comfy
It basically drew the advertised 320 mA and pumped water quite well.
None of our 3 pumps burned out, but since they're so cheap I'd brought along a spare just in case.
I used standard $0.79 light switches from the hardware store to control these. The fan was mounted on one side of the tub, on the inside, with the light switch right next to it. Cut a hole large enough for fan and switch to be accessible from inside the yurt, and taped around the hole with yurt tape to seal it off. When we woke up and started to feel warm, we simply flipped the light switch and delicious cold air started blowing. Back to sleep for 6 hours
Here was my previous post:
viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&p=861194#p861194
I used 32 gallon sterilite tubs purchased from a big box store. They didn't have vertical sides, which wasn't ideal for some of the designs in this thread, but I built a PVC U that was inside the tub and several inches away from the edges, and they worked super well. The sterilite is nice because you can cut it with an exacto knife, drill it, etc.
I used the recommended endless breeze fan.
For a pump, I used this guy, which is still available.
http://www.lightobject.com/36Lmin-Mini- ... -P573.aspx
Before the playa, I characterized it in my lab and it was very efficient for an 18" water rise and pumped plenty of water to keep our hexayurts nice and comfy

None of our 3 pumps burned out, but since they're so cheap I'd brought along a spare just in case.
I used standard $0.79 light switches from the hardware store to control these. The fan was mounted on one side of the tub, on the inside, with the light switch right next to it. Cut a hole large enough for fan and switch to be accessible from inside the yurt, and taped around the hole with yurt tape to seal it off. When we woke up and started to feel warm, we simply flipped the light switch and delicious cold air started blowing. Back to sleep for 6 hours

Here was my previous post:
viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&p=861194#p861194
Re: cooling your tent or van
Here's a way to save some money if they don't stock cooler pads in your area!
Any ACE hardware store will ship any items to another ACE store for free!!!
Thier online site does'nt show pads, but my local store has them and will ship them to any store.
https://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF-8&q=ace+hardware&fb=1&gl=us&hq=ace+hardware&hnear=0x872bb6f168df69c1:0x702c0500cea34b0,Apache+Junction,+AZ&ei=X6K0UZ6tH8X2qQGK0IEw&ved=0CKkBELYD&iwloc=cids:7383270444891210659
So take the my stores phone number to your local ACE and have the pads shipped to your store.
Your store may not know what your talking about, hence the phone number!
Any ACE hardware store will ship any items to another ACE store for free!!!
Thier online site does'nt show pads, but my local store has them and will ship them to any store.
https://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF-8&q=ace+hardware&fb=1&gl=us&hq=ace+hardware&hnear=0x872bb6f168df69c1:0x702c0500cea34b0,Apache+Junction,+AZ&ei=X6K0UZ6tH8X2qQGK0IEw&ved=0CKkBELYD&iwloc=cids:7383270444891210659
So take the my stores phone number to your local ACE and have the pads shipped to your store.
Your store may not know what your talking about, hence the phone number!

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Re: cooling your tent or van
Can someone help determine what type of fan I should get for my cooler? My tent is 486 cubic feet. Any help would be great appreciated. Thanks,
Last edited by misterdj on Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
- theCryptofishist
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Re: cooling your tent or van
Cubic feet might be more pertinent...
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"The powerful are exploiting people, art and ideas, and this leads to us plebes debating how to best ration ice.
Man, no wonder they always win....." Lonesomebri
Re: cooling your tent or van
misterdj wrote:Can someone help determine what type of fan I should get for my cooler? My tent is 486 cubic feet. Any help would be great appreciated. Thanks,
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8556/fan-533/Delta_120_x_38mm_High-Speed_Fan_-_19048_CFM_AFB1212SHE-CF00.html?tl=g36c435s1108&id=TMxuD2fh
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Re: cooling your tent or van
It was mentioned earlier the need to have the bucket outside the space to be cooled. If I'm using a small ultra lite trailer like, say, an R-Pod, Egg, T@DA, or some other teardrop-type trailer...where's a good spot to run the outlet pipe to the inside? Are we talking sawing a hole in the side of the trailer? 

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Re: cooling your tent or van
Im going to replace a window in the camper with a piece of metal from work with a hole punched in it. I have some edgeing material for the hole which will give the pipe a nice fit.
" Make me strong , not to be superiour to my brothers , to fight my greatest enemy ..... myself . " Chief Dan George .
We all feel ,We all bleed, We all share the pain of living ,and loss..... we're not so different after all
We all feel ,We all bleed, We all share the pain of living ,and loss..... we're not so different after all
Re: cooling your tent or van
If the teardrop has a window, remove the screen and use it for a template to cut out a piece of heavy cardboard to replace the screen.
Then you can cut the hole for the inflow any size you need.
Or you can do this.
http://www.outbackteardrop.com/body8.html
Then you can cut the hole for the inflow any size you need.

Or you can do this.
http://www.outbackteardrop.com/body8.html
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Re: cooling your tent or van
Just finished my bucket cooler tonight. Will have to test the temp in the daytime tomorrow.
My comments:
1) The blue duracool pad tends to slump when it gets wet. My cylinders shortened in the bucket and widened, causing contact w/ the sides of the bucket. Keep this in mind when cutting your pads. I would have make the pad a 1/2 bit taller and a bit narrower, or maybe very slightly tapered to fit into the contours of the bucket.
I didn't want to start over, so I fixed mine by pinching a bit of outer cylinder of duracool in several places with a few small binder clips (office supplies). The small pinches eliminated some of the excess slump and kept a gap between the pad and the bucket. Also I used a few leftover strips of Duracool to put at the bottom of the bucket to raise up the cyclinder slightly.
2) The water tube "halo" tried to fall down into between the two layers of Duracool. Fixed via zip tie.
3) I used 2 rows of large holes in the bucket, because I thought it would increase evap area. The problem is I limited the water holding capacity by doing so and also, since the bucket is tapered, I increased the drippage due to the pad touching the bucket. This issue mostly resolved by #1 above, but I wish I had'nt cut holes so far down now. Or I may make another bucket, depending how my test goes.
4) I used a pretty cheap 12V pump from ebay, rated about 60 GPH, and it wets the filter fabric just fine. But I can't run this pump dry, per the instructions. Kind of worrid about a campmate not filling it up and ruining my hard work. So I added a float switch (ebay), wired into the pump and jerry rigged it inside the inner Duracool pad about 1.5 inches above the floor. When water drops to this level, the switch will turn off.
5) I need a flexible duct to run this into my trailer. The 4" PVC vent does not fit standard 4"dryer duct. The 4" Pvc fit my fan and the duracool cylinder perfectly, but I had to shop online for a specialty 5" flexible duct and it fits great over the 4" Schedule 80 coupling.
Thanks all, I'm convinced I'll have the coolest spot at my camp due to this forum.
My comments:
1) The blue duracool pad tends to slump when it gets wet. My cylinders shortened in the bucket and widened, causing contact w/ the sides of the bucket. Keep this in mind when cutting your pads. I would have make the pad a 1/2 bit taller and a bit narrower, or maybe very slightly tapered to fit into the contours of the bucket.
I didn't want to start over, so I fixed mine by pinching a bit of outer cylinder of duracool in several places with a few small binder clips (office supplies). The small pinches eliminated some of the excess slump and kept a gap between the pad and the bucket. Also I used a few leftover strips of Duracool to put at the bottom of the bucket to raise up the cyclinder slightly.
2) The water tube "halo" tried to fall down into between the two layers of Duracool. Fixed via zip tie.
3) I used 2 rows of large holes in the bucket, because I thought it would increase evap area. The problem is I limited the water holding capacity by doing so and also, since the bucket is tapered, I increased the drippage due to the pad touching the bucket. This issue mostly resolved by #1 above, but I wish I had'nt cut holes so far down now. Or I may make another bucket, depending how my test goes.
4) I used a pretty cheap 12V pump from ebay, rated about 60 GPH, and it wets the filter fabric just fine. But I can't run this pump dry, per the instructions. Kind of worrid about a campmate not filling it up and ruining my hard work. So I added a float switch (ebay), wired into the pump and jerry rigged it inside the inner Duracool pad about 1.5 inches above the floor. When water drops to this level, the switch will turn off.
5) I need a flexible duct to run this into my trailer. The 4" PVC vent does not fit standard 4"dryer duct. The 4" Pvc fit my fan and the duracool cylinder perfectly, but I had to shop online for a specialty 5" flexible duct and it fits great over the 4" Schedule 80 coupling.
Thanks all, I'm convinced I'll have the coolest spot at my camp due to this forum.
Re: cooling your tent or van
The wat I did it the halo can't fall or shift anywhere. 
The inner sleeve and halo act as a seal that forces all the air through the damp pad.
Look closely and you'll see that the pad is not touching the sides of the bucket.


The inner sleeve and halo act as a seal that forces all the air through the damp pad.
Look closely and you'll see that the pad is not touching the sides of the bucket.

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Re: cooling your tent or van
Maybe this has been discussed in the 65 page post that this topic has grown to but here it goes anyway: have any of you experimented with running a tube from the spigot of your ice chest? I'm thinking the cold melted water dripping into the bucket may super charge the cooler and blast much colder air than normal. What do you think?
Ryan
Ryan
Re: cooling your tent or van
These work so well that the effect would be minimal. 

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Re: cooling your tent or van
Ok, food for thought. I'm going to start mine this weekend and was looking for a way to contribute to this wonderful tool. I have a tent inside a Costco carport, am I wasting my time building the cooler if it's not going into a hexayurt or a van (something with insulation) thanks guys in advance!
Re: cooling your tent or van
Yep, Fig, that's exactly what mine looks like dry, but when the pump turns on the blue pad gets wet and vibrates slightly due to the pump and fan, the the pad sags just a little, so the halo tried to fall in between the two layers of pad. Easily fixed with zip ties though, I just zipped the halo to the top of the blue pad since the pad is porous I could push zip ties right thur it. Now it can't slide down.
A great thread, thanks so much.
A great thread, thanks so much.
Re: cooling your tent or van
jryanmcmanus wrote:Ok, food for thought. I'm going to start mine this weekend and was looking for a way to contribute to this wonderful tool. I have a tent inside a Costco carport, am I wasting my time building the cooler if it's not going into a hexayurt or a van (something with insulation) thanks guys in advance!
The original idea was so people could get some extra zzzzzz's even with the sun shinning on thier tent.
The complete exchange of air in the space evey 1 to 3 minutes means that it does'nt matter whether the space is insulated or not.
A shaded tent with the cooler is ideal!

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- unjonharley
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Re: cooling your tent or van
In the 60s we lived in AZ.. In the poorest built house there.. One swamp cooler cooled a large house.. If your taking you in air from a car port and into yurt your going to be cool.. Or if you want sit around the carport in mid day.. Turn to coolr onto your lounge area.. It will be much cooler then a fan only..
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