hexayurt with AC, do I need an additional vent?

[BurnerBunny]

I'm building a hexayurt this year and I'll have a portable AC unit inside. It's 8000btu's, the portable kind that has a single hose for exhaust, here's a link to the unit: http://amzn.com/B006YG683C

What I'm not sure about is if I need another vent somewhere on the hexayurt? My initial thoughts were that in addition to the small hole near the bottom of the hexayurt that I would install for the air conditioner's exhaust hose, that I would also need another vent to allow some air in. Maybe a small vent higher up on the roof?

Can't wait to test in my backyard

[FIGJAM]

I would put some closable vents on opposing walls for when it's nice enough not to need the AC.

[Captain Goddammit]

You don't need to vent it to get the A/C to cool it... but you do need a bit of air to breathe now and then.

[Foxfur]

When it comes to vents in a structure to be cooled; incoming air vents lower, outgoing air higher.

[Hondovious]

I'm building a hexayurt this year and I'll have a portable AC unit inside. It's 8000btu's, the portable kind that has a single hose for exhaust, here's a link to the unit: http://amzn.com/B006YG683C

What I'm not sure about is if I need another vent somewhere on the hexayurt? My initial thoughts were that in addition to the small hole near the bottom of the hexayurt that I would install for the air conditioner's exhaust hose, that I would also need another vent to allow some air in. Maybe a small vent higher up on the roof?

Can't wait to test in my backyard

You are going to want some windows in your yurt to allow a cross breeze at times. Just put furnace filters over them to keep out the playa. Hinge the windows on the inside to allow you to close them if you want, but most of the time a cross breeze is all the cooling you need. Fire up your AC and close the windows from noonish til about 5 to handle the hardest part of the day.

[dragonpilot]

So this takes a fairly beefy gen set to run the AC, right? Be sure to set the gen far enough away from your structure to cut down on noise (which means putting it closer to your neighbors)...

[knowmad]

So this takes a fairly beefy gen set to run the AC, right? Be sure to set the gen far enough away from your structure to cut down on noise (which means putting it closer to your neighbors)...

which means building a baffle box.

[BurnerBunny]

So this takes a fairly beefy gen set to run the AC, right? Be sure to set the gen far enough away from your structure to cut down on noise (which means putting it closer to your neighbors)...

I'm buying a honda eu2000i, and building a baffle box for it as well as some sort of shaded stand to hold an additional gas can I'm modifying to extend the size of the tank.

[BurnerBunny]

When it comes to vents in a structure to be cooled; incoming air vents lower, outgoing air higher.

sounds like good advice, I'm assuming this is because heat rises so incoming air from low will be cool, and higher escaping hot air you want to leave anyway. Thanks!

[Canoe]

portable AC unit inside. ... the portable kind that has a single hose for exhaust...

Sorry, the single hose kind will not work well. It's like a puppy chasing its tail, and then worse.

The single hose units take air from inside (your hexayurt) and run it through the a/c's heat-exhausting fins to expel heat outside through the one hose.

• So the air inside the hexayurt, that you're running the a/c to cool, is being thrown away by exhausting it outside.
• AND, the air you're exhausting through the a/c has to be replaced. This sucks hot dusty air from outside in through whatever cracks it finds in the hexayurt. Seal the cracks and make a hole for air intake and put a filter on it, and they'll you'll only be sucking in hot air, just not dusty air (provided your filter does actually filter the fine playa dust).
• The nice cool air from the a/c is constantly being mixed with the hot outside air that gets sucked in, so the a/c is constantly working to cool that heated mixture. Not very efficient. Not very nice. Not very comfortable.
• You'll be running the a/c a lot just to be able to sit in the cool air flow coming out of the a/c, instead of being able to enjoy a significantly cooler interior.

You need a two hose unit, as they work like a window a/c unit in recirculation mode.

• These cycle
  • inside air through the cooling fins to cool the inside air; while separately,
  • outside air comes in one hose, through the heat-exhausting fins and then is sent back outside through the second hose.
• The inside and outside air do not meet or mix. As the inside air gets run through the a/c, the inside cools down. The heat the a/c unit removed from the inside air gets exhausted outside using outside air.
• To prevent the heat-exhausting fins from being coated or clogged with dust from the playa, you'll need a dust filter on the intake hose, and not just a little thing across the mouth of the hose, but a box or something that will take a furnace sized filter so it can suck enough air in for the a/c unit to work properly. Make sure the intake and exhaust hoses are not side by side; no point in sucking the heated air you just exhausted back through the unit.
• It is worth insulating the exhaust hose for its length inside the hexayurt - it gives off a lot of heat.

If you can't find a two-hose version (it's cheaper for them to make a single hose one), depending on how the intake for the exhaust air is on the a/c unit, you may be able to DIY an intake air hose.

And yes, the single-hose and two-hose units are rated as having the same efficiency, because the components used inside them are just as efficient. That rating does not take in to consideration that you're throwing your conditioned inside air away through the single-hose unit's exhaust path. If you're running a single-hose unit at home, you're paying more for electricity for a/c use than you need to as you'll be running it a lot more than you would with a two-hose unit.

Note: whither sucked in or run through a hose, using hot playa air to run through the heat-exhausting fins is not efficient. Much much quieter, similar or less cost to buy, cheaper to run: DIY swamp cooler. And you don't need the kind of power an a/c unit requires. You'll be a lot more comfortable, and enjoy how much quieter it is.
viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&start=1920

[FIGJAM]

Go to page 60 for a recap of the cooler designs.

[GreyCoyote]

Two thumbs-up to Canoe. He just flat-out nailed it. You would do well to listen to that man.

[Canoe]

... I'm buying a honda eu2000i, and building a baffle box for it as well as some sort of shaded stand to hold an additional gas can I'm modifying to extend the size of the tank.

Watch out for modifying a fuel tank. You may be heading into "not approved" fuel container territory.

And more good news.

Technically, fuel must be stored according to the rules in the Fire Safety Agreement: Fuel And Hazardous Materials Storage http://www.burningman.com/installations ... orage.html, which specifically states:
All participants using combustible fuels in an art installation (or for other purposes) at Burning Man must educate themselves about and comply with appropriate practices for storing and handling these materials.

Note that part of the requirements is that fuel spills of more than 1 gallon are to be reported to Black Rock Rangers or Emergency Services. Reports should include specific location and contact person at that location. In addition to a fire risk, I've heard of an environmental cleanup crew that will respond to cleanup to limit damage to the playa. Do not delay; you could be fined by the BLM, or even evicted from BRC.

That said, I've been informed that if we have under 20 gallons (over 20 gallons is the trigger for requiring Secondary Containment within the rules), we would likely be left alone from the letter of the rules – provided our fuel is stored safely and in approved-for-fuel containers. With the strong caution that BLM WILL issue tickets to those found spilling or that they consider are storing fuel improperly.

If you want confirmation on the requirements for your specific fuel situation, at the time of this writing there are two email addresses published: firesafety@burningman.com and fuel@burningman.com. I'm assured they want to hear from you before you get to the playa.

Cautions about pouring fuel into a running or hot generator are particularly relevant on-playa as the fuel can be hot too and the generator will be running hotter than usual (and more so if it's running within a baffle-box). Same for dry & windy conditions increasing static discharge which can ignite fuel. What you got away with elsewhere may not work on-playa; check your generator's instructions and take care.

[BurnerBunny]

Thanks for the advice, turns out I did buy a single hose unit, doh!!! I'm looking into how to modify it, hopefully I can come up with something to diy it into a dual hose system.

portable AC unit inside. ... the portable kind that has a single hose for exhaust...

Sorry, the single hose kind will not work well. It's like a puppy chasing its tail, and then worse.

The single hose units take air from inside (your hexayurt) and run it through the a/c's heat-exhausting fins to expel heat outside through the one hose.

• So the air inside the hexayurt, that you're running the a/c to cool, is being thrown away by exhausting it outside.
• AND, the air you're exhausting through the a/c has to be replaced. This sucks hot dusty air from outside in through whatever cracks it finds in the hexayurt. Seal the cracks and make a hole for air intake and put a filter on it, and they'll you'll only be sucking in hot air, just not dusty air (provided your filter does actually filter the fine playa dust).
• The nice cool air from the a/c is constantly being mixed with the hot outside air that gets sucked in, so the a/c is constantly working to cool that heated mixture. Not very efficient. Not very nice. Not very comfortable.
• You'll be running the a/c a lot just to be able to sit in the cool air flow coming out of the a/c, instead of being able to enjoy a significantly cooler interior.

You need a two hose unit, as they work like a window a/c unit in recirculation mode.

• These cycle
  • inside air through the cooling fins to cool the inside air; while separately,
  • outside air comes in one hose, through the heat-exhausting fins and then is sent back outside through the second hose.
• The inside and outside air do not meet or mix. As the inside air gets run through the a/c, the inside cools down. The heat the a/c unit removed from the inside air gets exhausted outside using outside air.
• To prevent the heat-exhausting fins from being coated or clogged with dust from the playa, you'll need a dust filter on the intake hose, and not just a little thing across the mouth of the hose, but a box or something that will take a furnace sized filter so it can suck enough air in for the a/c unit to work properly. Make sure the intake and exhaust hoses are not side by side; no point in sucking the heated air you just exhausted back through the unit.
• It is worth insulating the exhaust hose for its length inside the hexayurt - it gives off a lot of heat.

If you can't find a two-hose version (it's cheaper for them to make a single hose one), depending on how the intake for the exhaust air is on the a/c unit, you may be able to DIY an intake air hose.

And yes, the single-hose and two-hose units are rated as having the same efficiency, because the components used inside them are just as efficient. That rating does not take in to consideration that you're throwing your conditioned inside air away through the single-hose unit's exhaust path. If you're running a single-hose unit at home, you're paying more for electricity for a/c use than you need to as you'll be running it a lot more than you would with a two-hose unit.

Note: whither sucked in or run through a hose, using hot playa air to run through the heat-exhausting fins is not efficient. Much much quieter, similar or less cost to buy, cheaper to run: DIY swamp cooler. And you don't need the kind of power an a/c unit requires. You'll be a lot more comfortable, and enjoy how much quieter it is.
viewtopic.php?f=280&t=33842&start=1920

[BurnerBunny]

Thanks for the info. The honda gen has a tank capacity of 1.1 gallons, and the extended tank is 6 galons. I'm not building it, just buying it prefabricated. I'm going to have a tarp with raised edges, kitty litter, and a fire extinguisher nearby. Hopefully I'll exceed any requirements for it.

Watch out for modifying a fuel tank. You may be heading into "not approved" fuel container territory.

And more good news.

Technically, fuel must be stored according to the rules in the Fire Safety Agreement: Fuel And Hazardous Materials Storage http://www.burningman.com/installations ... orage.html, which specifically states:
All participants using combustible fuels in an art installation (or for other purposes) at Burning Man must educate themselves about and comply with appropriate practices for storing and handling these materials.

Note that part of the requirements is that fuel spills of more than 1 gallon are to be reported to Black Rock Rangers or Emergency Services. Reports should include specific location and contact person at that location. In addition to a fire risk, I've heard of an environmental cleanup crew that will respond to cleanup to limit damage to the playa. Do not delay; you could be fined by the BLM, or even evicted from BRC.

That said, I've been informed that if we have under 20 gallons (over 20 gallons is the trigger for requiring Secondary Containment within the rules), we would likely be left alone from the letter of the rules – provided our fuel is stored safely and in approved-for-fuel containers. With the strong caution that BLM WILL issue tickets to those found spilling or that they consider are storing fuel improperly.

If you want confirmation on the requirements for your specific fuel situation, at the time of this writing there are two email addresses published: firesafety@burningman.com and fuel@burningman.com. I'm assured they want to hear from you before you get to the playa.

Cautions about pouring fuel into a running or hot generator are particularly relevant on-playa as the fuel can be hot too and the generator will be running hotter than usual (and more so if it's running within a baffle-box). Same for dry & windy conditions increasing static discharge which can ignite fuel. What you got away with elsewhere may not work on-playa; check your generator's instructions and take care.

[Canoe]

If you don't need a generator for anything else, just the A/C, then ditch it and build yourself a DIY playa swamp-cooler. If if you do, ditch the A/C anyway.

• A swamp-cooler is a lot less fuss to setup,
• you don't have to worry about small cracks in sealing your hexayurt (incoming cool air pushes hot air & dust out through an exhaust vent and any small cracks; this air flow keeps dust from drifting in...),
• comfortable cool faster (the incoming cool air pushes the hot air out instead of having to process it to remove the heat),
• substantially quieter than an A/C unit, not to mention the generator,
• no concerns about fuel (transport, storage, heat, filling, spilling, fire) or fumes (carbon monoxide),
• costs a whole lot less than A/C and generator,
• the only work during the week is to
  • add water, and
  • turn it on when you want cool air.

Do you want to spend your week burning, or looking after gear...

[FIGJAM]

[Captain Goddammit]

What a bunch of bullshit.
Yes swamp coolers work OK... if you like damp swampy not-as-cool-as-A/C air.
I run full time A/C and I don't spend all my time looking after gear. With the right fuel tank plumbed in, I never fuel up all week.
Your swamp cooler works but trying to make up reasons why A/C is so horrible is simply BS, or you're just not doing it right.
Want to take a temp reading in your abode then compare it to the temp and humidity in mine? I'll make you a sizable (non-monetary of course... it's Burning Man after all) bet mine is cooler and dryer, and LESS work to maintain. I don't have to tend to the water level, or do anything at all but hit the switch.
Swamp coolers use less electricity but if you have the ability to make the electricity, who cares.
See you on the playa... unless I'm sleeping off the hottest part of the day, shivering under my blanket.

[BurnerBunny]

i thought about doing a swamp cooler, but the battery to sustain it for a week is pretty large, and figuring out a way to charge one is a pain. When I was younger we had a swamp cooler, and it didn't work all that well.

What a bunch of bullshit.
Yes swamp coolers work OK... if you like damp swampy not-as-cool-as-A/C air....

[FIGJAM]

Both have thier pros and cons, and I never said anything against AC.

I'm sitting under my AC right now.

As for swampy air, I'll quote you "BS"!

The air on the playa is so dry that the little bit of humidity added to the air is just enough to keep my sinuse from being dry.

Cool, I have to nap under a fleese in the hottest part of the day.

But there is nothing "wrong" with AC if that's what you like.

BB if your cooler was'nt working properly, the air outside was'nt dry enough or it was the cooler itself that was out of adjustment.

[Canoe]

What a bunch of bullshit.
Yes swamp coolers work OK... if you like damp swampy not-as-cool-as-A/C air.
I run full time A/C and I don't spend all my time looking after gear. With the right fuel tank plumbed in, I never fuel up all week.
Your swamp cooler works but trying to make up reasons why A/C is so horrible is simply BS, or you're just not doing it right.
Want to take a temp reading in your abode then compare it to the temp and humidity in mine? I'll make you a sizable (non-monetary of course... it's Burning Man after all) bet mine is cooler and dryer, and LESS work to maintain. I don't have to tend to the water level, or do anything at all but hit the switch.
Swamp coolers use less electricity but if you have the ability to make the electricity, who cares.
See you on the playa... unless I'm sleeping off the hottest part of the day, shivering under my blanket.

Not all A/C units are the same. Look at how a portable one-hose unit works...

Glad your setup works for you, but for someone looking to get setup, how can they know what will or won't work. Someone with that one-hose unit sure wouldn't have got the cooling they expected.

Look at the people with their rental RV's generator and A/C unit. With some, one or the other or both fail on-playa. Not only are they now without cooling that they were expecting to rely upon, some get charged to replace those entire units upon such failure.

And whatever the generator/A/C combo setup, some people have medical needs and were counting on having cooling from their A/C, only the fins clogged, and/or fried the starter relay, or the pump wore out or grossly overheated from too hot air or heat-retention from dust coating, or it simply didn't have a robust enough duty cycle to cool their shelter (does it have a shut-down mode, or will it burn out, or manage to limp along?), or it had to run more than expected and not enough fuel, etc. ... These things happen.

How can someone know in advance what the actual condition of their generator or a/c is, and its suitability of condition or engineering or operation for playa use. Or if their unit will run fine (with the weather & dust of this Burning Man) with or without extra dust filters. With or without cleaning the fins out during the week? How many times? Will it appear to run fine, only end up cooking the starter relay and it's dead in the water.

A generator/A/C combo has significantly more points of failure. The consequences of those failures can be significant (including: carbon monoxide, fire). And a large number of factors can determine if that a/c will do what someone expects. And cost. And noise, and noise and fumes for neighbours. Hear tons of complaints about generator noise.

Add up everything involved.

So for someone going for the first time, or needing cooling for the first time, how can they maximize the likelihood of having cooling all week...
We can warn someone when they get some inappropriate gear, like a one-hose unit. But we can't know if their generator/a/c setup will actually do the job they're expecting.

However, sticking with the proven DIY swamp-cooler designs, you know exactly what you're going to get. Deviate from the proven designs, and you won't know.

And if you're going to tell me that you haven't heard about any of the generator or a/c or rv horrors in all the years you've been here, that would be bullshit.

The laws of physics that govern the engineering involved are not going to change because you don't like them...

[Captain Goddammit]

Well first of all - sorry, I went on kind of a rant there - I had just come in from working on some of my BM stuff, including installing a second A/C on my camper (just for ridiculous overkill freezing ability).
I know you and FIGJAM are capable and smart guys who know how to make things work on the playa.

You make fair points, but I have run A/C on the playa most years since '00 with none of the issues or failures you mention. A/C units are pretty reliable and so are Honda generators, which are what I and the yurt-dweller in question are using. The noise level is well within acceptable level for daytime in BRC.

I totally agree, a swamp cooler would work well. I just disagree that A/C isn't also great, and easy, reliable, etc. as proven by my over-a-decade of on-playa experience with it.

[FIGJAM]

You see Captain!

You are prepared to handle your set up on the playa, as am I, but for the general population sometimes simple is never simple enough.

I am content.

[Canoe]

... I just disagree that A/C isn't also great, and easy, reliable, etc. as proven by my over-a-decade of on-playa experience with it.

That's what I thought. And the A/C in the RV worked fine for me, if the usual noise. But I was much surprised by many accounts of failure. And these were people who weren't doing anything we'd think were doing anything wrong.

Like the OP getting a nice one-hose A/C unit. Seems good, until you know how they work: taking the cool air you've just run the generator and A/C unit to get, and exhausting that air outside to cool its heat-exhausting fins/coils, while sucking hot dusty air into the shelter. WTF. How can a consumer know about that?

Like usual. If you can get the same units that someone has used successfully on-playa, then you greatly increase your chance of success.

But from the accounts, there's just so many more points of failure, if you're not getting the same units that have a proven track record on-playa, then it's almost a crap shoot what you're going to end up with. Some have fins/coils that are fine. Others get coated with dust: continues working but not as much cool air produced, or runs & runs but barely any cool air produced, or runs and runs til it dies. And of those: some have fins & coils that are fine, some end up with corroded fins, some even have corroded coils, even leaking. Was it a poor design? Was it the angle of the a/c unit relative to the wind/dust in that part of BRC in that year? Did the angle of some rain get in somewhere? Was it dust from one year mixing with humidity when used off-playa? Was it worn out? A lemon off the production line? Did the pump area get coated or blocked with dust: worked fine but greater wear & tear and/or more heat from the pump, or ran til the overheated pump bearings died, or ran til the starter relay overheated and died, ...

So many variations of trouble reported. I've gathered four and a half pages of notes on what can go wrong and what you can try to do to prevent that, but the bottom line I take away from all the accounts, is unfortunately:

There are plenty of reports of A/C success on-playa – and plenty of failure. We can't know the condition of your A/C or generator or how well they're engineered – nor where your setup will fit within the range of experiences.

And if you're borrowing or renting, you can be on the hook for any or all repairs or replacement...

All we can do is report what has worked, and steer people away from what is known as a bad idea. Like one-hose portable A/C units.

From the info I've gathered, if I NEEDED cooling on-playa (medical requirement for rest, or I had to have enough quality rest as others are counting on me for my contribution to a theme camp or art project) I wouldn't count/rely upon A/C on the playa.

[BurnerBunny]

*ahem*

this thread is to help me figure out what kind of vents I'm going to add to my hexayurt given my setup. I've taken all advice into consideration and greatly appreciate all the responses I've received.

However, I do not desire to try a swamp cooler this time around. If you guys would like to debate the merits of AC vs swamp feel free, but it's not germane.

Luckily the single hose ac unit I bought seems readily convertible into a dual hose system with some creative ducting. Do any fellow portable AC unit burners have any advice on the types of filters I need to have on the intake/outake vents I built into the side of my hexayurt? My initial though is to locate them west facing.

[Canoe]

Luckily the single hose ac unit I bought seems readily convertible into a dual hose system with some creative ducting.

Good news.

...any advice on the types of filters I need to have on the intake/outake vents I built into the side of my hexayurt? My initial though is to locate them west facing.

Exhaust Vent

For the exhaust hose vent, you don't need much. Something to stop a direct wind storm from blowing dust into the hose and filling the hose and/or fins of the heat exchanger. Something as simple as a 90 degree elbow facing down for a foot should work, and keeps rain out too (mixes with playa dust and erodes the fins & coils of the heat exchanger). The air exhausting can be surprisingly hot, so I'd strongly suggest using an insulated duct for the part that goes through the foam wall, just because. To further keep that heat away, aim the duct output slightly away from the wall instead of directly down along the wall - perhaps a 30 or 45 degree on the bottom of the 90 degree to send it out away from the wall.

Exhaust Hose

You'll really want to insulate the exhaust hose for its length within the hexayurt. It gets really really hot, and radiates that heat through the shelter. Get advice from HD, Lowe's, etc., on what materials will do this safely. I've been informed that plastic dryer exhaust hose is not rated to a high enough temperature! I've also been told that putting insulation around the exhaust hose provided with the unit means that hose is subjected to more heat that expected, hence unsafe. Get advice on what insulation/hose or per-insulated hose/duct will work safely. Without getting into specifics, an insulated metal dryer exhaust hose was suggested as a place to start.

Intake

For the air intake, you've got a greater issue. In addition to needing to keep the dust from blocking the air path and from coating the fins & coils of the heat exchanger, you also need to provide enough air flow to take the heat away so the A/C unit doesn't overheat and break. Unfortunately, the bulk of playa dust is very fine light particles, under 5 microns. These can quickly clog a furnace filter. So a simple filter over the opening of the hose is unlikely to provide enough air flow. You need something to go from your intake hose size to a larger size for more square inches of filtration. A simple way is to take two smaller furnace filters and tape them together like a pup tent (stronger than bending a larger one in the middle, which can also tear the filter material), and tape cardboard across the ends so you make a pup-tent without a bottom (make sure the supporting metal mesh is towards the inside so it supports the filter material under air flow). The resulting "pup tent" can be taped to the outside of the hexayurt over the intake hose opening. To minimize the need to clean or replace these fine filters, tape a cheap furnace filter batton over top to catch the coarse dust, leaving the fine dust for the furnace filters, sealing around all edges (foil tape works well).

As for the exhaust vent, you should protect these filters from getting the full blast of a playa dust storm. You'll need to tape a box of some sort over top of your filters, opening on the bottom, with enough air space that air can get in the open bottom to the entire area of the filters. A cardboard box could be taped in place with foil tape, which can also be used to make it sufficiently waterproof for the week.

[Canoe]

I had to whip that last reply off before heading out, so here's some more points.

Intake Hose
Usually sized somewhat larger than the exhaust hose, to ensure it doesn't restrict air flow.
Has to be strong enough that it won't collapse under the vacuum of sucking air through it, and more so once you add a filter on that intake, and more so again once it starts to collect dust.
That vacuum will mean this hose will try to suck dust into it at all point. Joints and seams need to be well sealed.

Once you've got an intake hose modified to fit your one-hose unit, you can fire it up and see what sealing issues you'll have. Once those are solved, you can try filter material over the end to see how much that restricts airflow and if the intake hose holds up under vacuum. You'll also see how hot the exhaust hose gets and how much heat it throws off.

Filter
You need to filter fine particles. One popular company's fine particle furnace filters used purple as part of their model branding for "Pleated Electrostatic" filters. Note that filters capable of filtering fine particles also have reduced airflow, contributing to the need to have a filter area that is much larger than the intake hose.

How you mechanically construct your intake filter doesn't matter much, but make sure it's sealed and watch out for something that the wind can't rip off or blow away, that is also protected from the rain.

[BurnerBunny]

I had to whip that last reply off before heading out, so here's some more points....

you're a life safer, thanks Canoe! Look for the cozy sparklepony on the playa this year and I'll give you a hug

[Canoe]

You're welcome. Glad to be of help.
It's amazing how many places there are pieces of information you need to know in order to make it work out well.
But I'm really just presenting a gathering of what others have shared with me.

So you owe a lot of people hugs out there, but as you won't know how, you'll have to starting hugging everybody...
Hug for me? Cool. Cozy sparkle pony. Right, that'll narrow it down...
I'll get three or four dozen hugs from sparkle ponies and I get to guess which was you.

p.s. The sooner you run the puppy the sooner you'll see what you're dealing with.

[BurnerBunny]

it amazes me how much can't be planned for and you just have to deal with and figure out a solution as you build, for something as seemingly simple as a hexayurt. Now imagine you're building the spaceshuttle, the mind boggles!

This sparklepony is actually pretty easy to find, if you happen to walk past camp Iffy Pop come say hi! My name is Eric, don't have a playaname yet, this is only my second burn.

You're welcome. Glad to be of help.
It's amazing how many places there are pieces of information you need to know in order to make it work out well.
But I'm really just presenting a gathering of what others have shared with me.

So you owe a lot of people hugs out there, but as you won't know how, you'll have to starting hugging everybody...
Hug for me? Cool. Cozy sparkle pony. Right, that'll narrow it down...
I'll get three or four dozen hugs from sparkle ponies and I get to guess which was you.

p.s. The sooner you run the puppy the sooner you'll see what you're dealing with.