The O2 sensor looks good, but I'm no expert there.Sail Man wrote:Gyre, posted the last after reading your first caution. And then, ran across your longer post.
I am of the opinion that any auxiliary heating device in a home, whether it be gas powered or wood powered can be inherently dangerous under certain circumstances. Most forms of combustion use oxygen to burn, hence depleting it is a possibility. Ignition is another possibility. It's always been my practice to crack a window whenever using an auxiliary heating device. Yes, that does cut down on effectiveness, but safety is also a concern.
You did spark my curiosity about a more effective O2 monitoring device, here is one that I found. Opinions? http://www.northernsafety.com/Products/ ... html?PFM=S
If you can point me towards a propane heater that is safer, please do so. I am not interested in something currently that would require me to cut a hole in my house at the present, but I have been considering adding a sm wood burning stove down the line.
Can you confirm whether your unit has an oxygen sensor or not?
Mine only has a temperature sensor, like the others I've seen.
I have a small tank top catalytic heater.
Is yours catalytic as well?
Carbon monoxide isn't supposed to be an issue, but other vapors may be.
Depleting oxygen is bad enough, even under the ideal theory of these things.
The catalytic element eventually burned out in mine.
The replaced it cheerfully, but this was about the time of the recall.
They had replaced my variable valve with a two step valve and a temp probe which prevented me running the tank low or setting the heat as low as I often needed.
It allows gas flow only when it is hot enough.
It has worked fine, but is only efficient in a poorly sealed environment.
I think if your trailer leaks that much, I would spend the energy to seal it better.
There are vented RV heaters that are purely radiant and overhead, I think.
They do not use a fan.
I can't remember the brand, but it is one of the main companies.
I have found some home style propane/ngas heaters that act as radiant if not blocked.
They have a rectangular vertical box which hangs near the wall.
The flue is one of those short horizontal intake /outlet designed for people that don't want to cut holes.
I think that model requires a small fan for the exhaust.
I don't think the catalytics make sense without venting in enclosed spaces.
I do think you could enclose one safely with a glass front and make an intake and exhaust easily enough.
I think these are great where you have enough ventilation to start with, ie a lot.
And great for emergencies.
As for risk, the swiss approach to heater safety is amusing overkill, but may make sense.
They use a firebox that will contain any failure.
How is your electric availability?
If you have enough grid power, electric is far more efficient for radiant heat.
Check your actual gas costs.
Gas has to be far cheaper than it is most places to justify using it for heating.
They market the summer prices here but sell at winter prices.
I switched to electric heat years ago.
The Fostoria RPH is a good place to start for quartz lamp heaters.
Then there are quartz tube heaters.
And black body panels, less efficient but easier to set up and lasting forever in most cases.
Use spot heating in the right places and bank it from multiple angles and you will be shocked at how little heat you really need.
It is much easier and cheaper to install electric radiant heat than gas.
Take that into consideration too.
Conversion efficiency is 100% due to the lack of need for ventilation.
Quartz lamps can be 98% efficient in heat throw too.
Gas always has a larger convection loss from radiant.







